the only diferance i can see on the single point distributer for a automatic from the standerd, is the way it,s calibrated.you should be abel to take basicly any fe distributer and rework it to your spects all you need is a shop with a distributer machine and tell them what you wount it calibrated to.

Look closely at a Ford distributor and you will see that some of the numbers are cast on the housing and some are metal stamped. The difference is in the vacuum advance module and the mechanical advance curves. If you can find someone with an old Sun distributor machine, the book will tell you what both advance curves should look like. If you want to get the correct distributor so that you can be concours correct, that's a different story.

Based on what I've heard a C6ME block may be a '66 - '67 352, 361, 390, 391 or 428. But based on what I've actually seen, a C6ME is a thicker wall casting that may very well take a 4.13 + bore; has thicker main webbing plus the bosses allowing for easy conversion to 427 cross bolt main caps.

I have had a C6ME 391 block for years that I had sonic mapped before boring it to 4.16 (.030 over 4.13), thus a 433 with 3.98 crank. I have also had 427 main caps installed with all that's necessary to do that, i.e., align boring, spot facing. I'm also going to have the 427 S-oiler screw in style freeze plugs intalled. While this machine work was being done, all standard FE oiling improvements were done. And it must be noted that to run an FE distributor in this FT block does require a distributor shaft bushing, part # C4TZ-12367A which was still available from Ford last year. But you better hurry on that one. Obviously any part beginning with -C- is "The Going Thing"......going away fast.

I've invested a little chunk-o-change into my C6ME because I think it's worth it. It should provide a solid block for 450-500 horse.

As for the value of a C6ME block? My opinion is that if it's a thick casting, have it sonic tested-mapped before you pay, it's worth $500. That's my humble opinion.

the differance is the crank is reverse rotation, rods are 390, it has 390 cheap heads, and a 4v intake, different flywheel, different timing cover, different oilpan, differnt exhast mailofolds. every thing is different except blockand intake. but the 390 has the same stroke as a 427 so the rods will but the crank wont, it will be tooo much work to get the crank to work.

You might change the engine oil and filter. It's cheap insurance and it guarantees that the engine will receive clean, fresh oil upon initial restart. Afterall, it costs less than $20.00 USD to change the oil and could mean the difference in a ring job later. Also, by pouring the new oil into the oil filler holes in each valve cover it will insure that the top half of the engine has clean oil to lubricate all moving parts. If an engine sets up for that long, chances are all of the oil has drained down back into the crankcase/oilpan and the oil pump may have done the same, requiring a few seconds of running before it can re-prime itself. Add about 8 ounces of marvel mystery oil to the engine oil. This will help unstick any lifters or valves that may have seized while the car wasn't ran, and it certainly won't hurt anything to do this, even if your engine doesn't have any stuck or seized parts. You might also add a LITTLE marvel mystery and a LITTLE B-12 Chemtool oil to the gas just in case there are some varnished parts in the carburetor... it may help loosen them up and it won't hurt anything there either. Also, mix half-and-half marvel mystery oil and kerosene into an old oil squirter and squirt several times into each cylinder and let it set a few weeks. Both marvel mystery oil and kerosene are natural penetrating oils and they will work their way between the cylinder walls and pistons/piston rings to allow for a smoother start. Just a few suggestions from an old fart who rebuilds antique John Deere 2 Cylinder tractors that have set up for decades, not years. ;)

At a minimum you should pull the plugs and get some WD40 or other penetrating spray in the cylinders. Once you do that, turn the engine over by hand.

You want to make sure that the rings are not locked to the potentially rusty cylinder walls before you use the starter to crank the engine.

If the engine turns freely, put the plugs back in and put some fresh gas in the tank. Change the oil and filter (try to use a 5-30 oil on the re-start) and get ready to start it...but not yet.

Replace all the belts and hoses. It doesn't matter how they look. They will be bad, especially the belts.

At this point you want a helper/observer handy with a fire extinguisher or water hose. It would be best to be outside for the starting. The reason for this is that just about anything that uses a seal or made out of rubber is a leak source. Carburetor gaskets shrink when they dry out, fuel hoses oxidize and crack, floats stick... At a minimum, replace the rubber fuel lines.

If the engine comes back to life you are about half way to reviving the car.

Let the engine run until it is at operating temperature and observe for any leaks. Don't be surprised if this car that wasn't leaking anything in hibernation is now dripping fuel from the fuel pump or lines, water from the pump weep hole, oil from the valve cover gaskets and crankshaft seals and trans fluid from the various seals and gaskets. It's not a guarantee that this will happen but just be prepared for it in both operating the car and your expense list.

Once the engine is warmed up, start to test the transmission by cycling it through the gears.

Before the car will be ready to road test, you'll need to replace all the hydraulics in the brake system. You'll need a new (not rebuilt if you can avoid it) master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Before you replace the cylinder, purge the old fluid and flush alcohol through the hydraulic system. You want to remove all the sludge and moisture from the lines. Once the lines are clean, replace all the hydraulics and install new flex hose. Obviously, if the brake shoes or other hardware needs attention, now would be the time to do it. Also make sure the parking brake cable and levers move freely and that the shoes are greased at the point where they ride on the backing plate.

Once the engine, trans, and brakes are up to snuff, you are ready for an easy road test. Go easy on it for the first few miles so that the rear can be lubed.

You should be able to get a pretty good fix on where you are following the road test. And if everything seems to be working fine, don't even think about getting this car up to freeway speed until you replace the tires.

It's not all that unusual to have even a freshly overhauled engine and trans needing it again after such a long period of rest. The bottom line, again, is that anything that uses a gasket or seal could be bad.

Wouldn't you want to prime the engine with the fresh clean oil before you attempt to start it? This would ensure that all the bearings and such are primed with oil at the initial startup of the engine which is where most of engine wear and damage occur? I am not familiar with Y-blocks but I am assuming that the oil pump can be primed the same way, through the distributor hole?

Chad

I restored a '56 312 bird several years ago that had sat for quite a while.

On first start-up of the freshly rebuilt engine I ran into a unique problem. The thing just didn't seem to be getting enough fuel. Turns out the flex hose from the hard fuel line to the fuel pump was dried out. The stock braided covering hid this! The fuel pump never got a prime because it was sucking too much air.

If you remember this you may pull out less hair than I did LOL!

-Bill

There are only two solutions: 1) Modify the pan, or; 2) get the short studs and mill the rear main cap.

I'm sure you're not even thinking of just using the studs on the 1-4 main caps and bolts on #5, right?

Hey sorry I can't help with 500hp 428 info.
But was wondering how the install into the LTD is? Do you have any info on this transplant?
I ask because I am looking to install a 422ci FE into a '91 Crown Vic wagon. I am either going to run a C6 or use an adaptor & run a AOD (this is preferd due to fuel costs). And am looking for any tips or input. Thanks. David

The garden variety 428 FE's used all the same casting numbers as any 352, 390 or 410 of similar vintage. You really have to measure bore and stroke.

Crankshafts are the only exception, 428 cranks are marked 1U, 1UA or 1UB. None are any stronger than the others but the 1U and 1UB are more desirable for a performance engine because they are easier to balance.

Royce

The best place to sell them is on Ebay. Be sure to put lots of pictures in the advertisement and be sure to refer to Carroll Shelby, Holman - Moody, Le Mans, Daytona, Cobra and Dan Gurney.

The sodium filled valves are a liability. Many engines have been lost over the years to them. It has been said that they become brittle over time and the heads snap off easily.

I bet those heads are worth $4000 or maybe a little more. No way to find out without putting them on Ebay.

Royce

Royce