These are the old FoMoCo Obsolete Forums and are being hosted by JCOConsulting.com. While you're here, check out my articles or have a look around at some of the Ford Stuff we have for sale. You might find something you can't live without.

Skip Navigation Links.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20621&Reply=20621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>03/11/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have been trying to find out where this grinding noise is coming from my motor, and I noticed that I can pull on my fan blade and it wiggles a little bit. Does that mean that my water pump is about to go and that could be where my grinding noise is coming from?  </blockquote> Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it -- Steve M, 03/11/2004
I have been trying to find out where this grinding noise is coming from my motor, and I noticed that I can pull on my fan blade and it wiggles a little bit. Does that mean that my water pump is about to go and that could be where my grinding noise is coming from?
 RE: Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it -- crusinbuddy, 03/11/2004
Last year I had a pump that was worn and shaft had alot of play....extreme amount actually. Replaced pump and noise it was transfering to engine went away.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20624&Reply=20621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry B, <i>03/11/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Pull off all your belts and see if the noise goes away. </blockquote> RE: Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it -- Barry B, 03/11/2004
Pull off all your belts and see if the noise goes away.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20627&Reply=20621><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>03/11/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I hope that is what is wrong with this one. I just hope water pumps are easy to find for this thing without paying through the nose. I am going to yank them belts and see what happens... Thanks guys </blockquote> RE: Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it -- Steve M, 03/11/2004
I hope that is what is wrong with this one. I just hope water pumps are easy to find for this thing without paying through the nose. I am going to yank them belts and see what happens... Thanks guys
 RE: Should a fan blade on a 390 have wobble play in it -- giacamo, 03/11/2004
water pumps shpuld cost 30 to 45 bucks....for a decent rebilt one.....
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20617&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ryan Hodges, <i>03/10/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I hate to keep beating a dead horse, but my damn motor is still ticking.  In the last month, I have installed new lifters, new pushrods, and new exhaust gaskets.  I am at a total loss.  Could poor engine assembly or machining cause a noise like this?  Am I worrying about nothing?   Should I just turn the radio up?<br><br>Thanks for the help.<br> </blockquote> Engine still ticking! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/10/2004
I hate to keep beating a dead horse, but my damn motor is still ticking. In the last month, I have installed new lifters, new pushrods, and new exhaust gaskets. I am at a total loss. Could poor engine assembly or machining cause a noise like this? Am I worrying about nothing? Should I just turn the radio up?

Thanks for the help.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20619&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>03/10/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>is the fuel pump ticking try to use a hose to pinpoint the noise.i use a hose up to my ear and lissen around the engin to find the noise..... </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- giacamo, 03/10/2004
is the fuel pump ticking try to use a hose to pinpoint the noise.i use a hose up to my ear and lissen around the engin to find the noise.....
 feul pump -- Ryan Hodges, 03/11/2004
I tried that a few months ago. I even put an electric pump on it. It still kept ticking.
 RE: Engine still ticking! -- crusinbuddy, 03/11/2004
Have you checked your water pump. I had one on a 390 that did not leak but the shaft was worn and transmitting noise toward #1 cylinder. Replaced pump and noise was gone.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20630&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Martin Micheelsen, <i>03/11/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have had some cylinder jobs where the valve hight varied too much afterwards and ticking resulted. You may want to check how the top of the valve stems line up.   </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- Martin Micheelsen, 03/11/2004
I have had some cylinder jobs where the valve hight varied too much afterwards and ticking resulted. You may want to check how the top of the valve stems line up.
 RE: Engine still ticking! -- Martin Micheelsen, 03/11/2004
A set of Erson adjustable roller rockers may be the easy answer if dimensional variations in the valve train are outside what the lifters can accomodate.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20632&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dano, <i>03/11/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Double check the spark plugs, I have had one come loose and it does make a ticking noise.  Of course, a bad exaust manifold or gasket can tick also.   </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- Dano, 03/11/2004
Double check the spark plugs, I have had one come loose and it does make a ticking noise. Of course, a bad exaust manifold or gasket can tick also.
 RE: Engine still ticking! -- Tim P., 03/11/2004
It could also be from faughty valve guides, valves stickin or sloppy.
 RE: Engine still ticking! -- giacamo, 03/13/2004
Ryon any thing that moves can make noise a friend of mine uses a old stefascope he removed the endpice and fitted a 1/4 inch tubeing about 3 feat long to it clames he can pinpoint any noise with it.i use a pice of heater hose i hope this helps
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20679&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Randal Myers, <i>03/14/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ryan,<br>Need to know if the ticking is soft or loud.<br>Also if it gets worse with engine rpm increase or stays the same.<br>Right now it can be anywhere from your flexplate to your distributor,you need to narrow it down.<br>The hose to your ear will help you if it is<br>mechanical. </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- Randal Myers, 03/14/2004
Ryan,
Need to know if the ticking is soft or loud.
Also if it gets worse with engine rpm increase or stays the same.
Right now it can be anywhere from your flexplate to your distributor,you need to narrow it down.
The hose to your ear will help you if it is
mechanical.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20680&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ryan Hodges, <i>03/14/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>The ticking gets louder at different rpms.  It is loud at certain times.<br><br>Thanks </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/14/2004
The ticking gets louder at different rpms. It is loud at certain times.

Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20687&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>x1968x, <i>03/14/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Any chance you have a cracked exhaust manifold? It could be a crack that opens up when the engine heats up... </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- x1968x, 03/14/2004
Any chance you have a cracked exhaust manifold? It could be a crack that opens up when the engine heats up...
 RE: Engine still ticking! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/14/2004
That could be a possibility. I will check on that.

Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20741&Reply=20617><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Engine still ticking!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Randal Myers, <i>03/18/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ryan,<br>Where is it loud?<br>Are you driving it or revving it?<br>Did you try the hose to pin point?<br>Please try that first,need a location.  </blockquote> RE: Engine still ticking! -- Randal Myers, 03/18/2004
Ryan,
Where is it loud?
Are you driving it or revving it?
Did you try the hose to pin point?
Please try that first,need a location.
 RE: Engine still ticking! -- Brian, 03/18/2004
Ryan,

Does this car have an Auto or stick? If it is an auto trans I had a similar issue a long time ago and the ticking was the flexplate where it mounted to the torque converter. Someone put it on and didn't have the plate lined up to allow for the little drain plug on the torque converter and at certain RPM's it would tick as it hit the block plate and it would get really bad at times. I haven't read all your posts but this just came to mind. Good luck!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20611&Reply=20611><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gary Shaw, <i>03/10/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a set of heads the casting number that one really no what they are. C6AE J anyone have any Idea Thaks gary </blockquote> Heads -- Gary Shaw, 03/10/2004
I have a set of heads the casting number that one really no what they are. C6AE J anyone have any Idea Thaks gary
 RE: Heads -- giacamo, 03/10/2004
1966 352 390 heads
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20608&Reply=20608><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>A '66 390GT -Z- code!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I just couldn't pass up posting this unbelieveable ebay offering:<br><br>A genuine 1966 Fairlane 390GT 335 horsepower -Z- code convertible!  Yesiree folks, step right up and have a look fer yerself.<br><br>Caveat Emptor!  <br><br>This guy goes on for pages telling his story rationalizing why this 'lane is a 335 horse GT car.<br><br>What he is leaving out about the Ford publication he's citing as official documentation is this disclaimer that Ford included with all service publications:<br><br>"The descriptions and specifications in this manual were in effect at the time this manual was approved for printing.  The Ford Motor Company reserves the right to discontinue models at any time, or change specifications or design, without notice and without incurring obligation."<br><br>My '66 Fairlane, Comet, Mustang shop manual doesn't even list the -S- code 390GT.  But I've owned four of them and I know many of you currently own a '66 -S- code 390GT Fairlane.  And I'm sure there's a few of you who have a '66/'67 -Z- code, 390-315 horsepower non GT car.<br><br>Here's a link to the experts offering:<br><br><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465499162&category=6230&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465499162&category=6230&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1</a> </blockquote> A '66 390GT -Z- code! -- McQ, 03/09/2004
I just couldn't pass up posting this unbelieveable ebay offering:

A genuine 1966 Fairlane 390GT 335 horsepower -Z- code convertible! Yesiree folks, step right up and have a look fer yerself.

Caveat Emptor!

This guy goes on for pages telling his story rationalizing why this 'lane is a 335 horse GT car.

What he is leaving out about the Ford publication he's citing as official documentation is this disclaimer that Ford included with all service publications:

"The descriptions and specifications in this manual were in effect at the time this manual was approved for printing. The Ford Motor Company reserves the right to discontinue models at any time, or change specifications or design, without notice and without incurring obligation."

My '66 Fairlane, Comet, Mustang shop manual doesn't even list the -S- code 390GT. But I've owned four of them and I know many of you currently own a '66 -S- code 390GT Fairlane. And I'm sure there's a few of you who have a '66/'67 -Z- code, 390-315 horsepower non GT car.

Here's a link to the experts offering:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465499162&category=6230&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20616&Reply=20608><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: A '66 390GT -Z- code!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Don, <i>03/10/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote><br>Yeah I got a kick outta that one, he got so worked up with the description, he envoked god's help for the unbelievers. <br>pretty funny stuff - Don </blockquote> RE: A '66 390GT -Z- code! -- Don, 03/10/2004

Yeah I got a kick outta that one, he got so worked up with the description, he envoked god's help for the unbelievers.
pretty funny stuff - Don
 RE: A '66 390GT -Z- code! -- DangerousDave, 03/18/2004
I cant believe you guys would DIS this fellow FE'er. I have presonally owned three cars, YES 3each of the Chrome dipstick equipped cars and if you ever drove one, you would know how much faster they are compared to the painted dipstick cars. I drive along in my 428 XR-7 dreaming of the days gone by when I had a CHROME dipstick 390, but of course with the e-bay dipsticks goin for about $110.00 I have to resign myself to feedin the kids instead, maybe one day my children will be able to have THE DRESS UP KIT
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20607&Reply=20607><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>cam on 390 4 speeds?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gilles, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>wich cam,??390 4 speed in mustang,power brakes, rpm edelbrock manifold, plan to install edel auminum heads later no drag racing, streetable good mid power...thanks i really need this info my motor will be rebuilt next week. thanks </blockquote> cam on 390 4 speeds? -- gilles, 03/09/2004
wich cam,??390 4 speed in mustang,power brakes, rpm edelbrock manifold, plan to install edel auminum heads later no drag racing, streetable good mid power...thanks i really need this info my motor will be rebuilt next week. thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20613&Reply=20607><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: cam on 390 4 speeds?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>03/10/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>265 comp cam or 270  </blockquote> RE: cam on 390 4 speeds? -- giacamo, 03/10/2004
265 comp cam or 270
 thanks giacomo just bought 270 kit from summit -- gilles, 03/10/2004
thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20601&Reply=20601><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Crane XR-i points conversion</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gary Adam, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Has anybody installed one on these units? I<br>want to try one in my 68 390, and I am wondering if the factory tach will work without<br>having to use the tach adaptor Crane says<br>may be needed for some applications. This <br>unit has a built in adjustable rev limiter and<br>I am wondering how good this unit actually<br>works? Is this a good unit overall -- better<br>than the Pertronix? Any opinions appreciated! </blockquote> Crane XR-i points conversion -- Gary Adam, 03/09/2004
Has anybody installed one on these units? I
want to try one in my 68 390, and I am wondering if the factory tach will work without
having to use the tach adaptor Crane says
may be needed for some applications. This
unit has a built in adjustable rev limiter and
I am wondering how good this unit actually
works? Is this a good unit overall -- better
than the Pertronix? Any opinions appreciated!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20626&Reply=20601><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Crane XR-i points conversion</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jeff, <i>03/11/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have asked this question myself on this forum, not important enough, i am still waiting. my guess is to buy the proven unit, pertronix,orig. unit with reg. coil. </blockquote> RE: Crane XR-i points conversion -- jeff, 03/11/2004
i have asked this question myself on this forum, not important enough, i am still waiting. my guess is to buy the proven unit, pertronix,orig. unit with reg. coil.
 RE: Crane XR-i points conversion -- galaxiefreak64, 03/13/2004
heres a great web site that helped me...........................http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/index.php
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20598&Reply=20598><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Getting really confused about what heads I need</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Trevor, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Are C6OE heads correct for a 67 GT 390 engine? I was under the impression they should be C7AE-A heads, but I've found a guy with a set of C7AE-A heads on a 410, but he says it just has the regular exhaust manifolds, not the special 390 GT ones for the Mustang, etc. So I guess my questions are:<br>1) Are there C7AE-A heads that aren't 14 bolt, and if there are, are they the same and you just have to tap them out to have a correct head?<br>2) Was any other casting number (ie a C6OE) used on the 67 390 GT that was put in the Mustangs? Thanks, Trevor </blockquote> Getting really confused about what heads I need -- Trevor, 03/09/2004
Are C6OE heads correct for a 67 GT 390 engine? I was under the impression they should be C7AE-A heads, but I've found a guy with a set of C7AE-A heads on a 410, but he says it just has the regular exhaust manifolds, not the special 390 GT ones for the Mustang, etc. So I guess my questions are:
1) Are there C7AE-A heads that aren't 14 bolt, and if there are, are they the same and you just have to tap them out to have a correct head?
2) Was any other casting number (ie a C6OE) used on the 67 390 GT that was put in the Mustangs? Thanks, Trevor
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20603&Reply=20598><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Casting numbers are meaningless on most FE's</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>During 1967 there were casting number C6AF-U, C7AE-A, C6TE-A, C6AE-R and other heads made for FE's used across the line of displacements. Any of these heads could show up in pairs of matched castings on 352, 390, 410 or 428 engines. The same castings were used in light trucks powered by FE's also.<br><br>On a 390GT application they were drilled for a 14 bolt exhaust and received a little better valve spring. Otherwise 390GT heads are like any other FE head for a given year. All had the same 2.02" and 1.55" valves.<br><br>It's easy to get confused because all the reference books are wrong.<br><br>Royce  </blockquote> Casting numbers are meaningless on most FE's -- Royce P, 03/09/2004
During 1967 there were casting number C6AF-U, C7AE-A, C6TE-A, C6AE-R and other heads made for FE's used across the line of displacements. Any of these heads could show up in pairs of matched castings on 352, 390, 410 or 428 engines. The same castings were used in light trucks powered by FE's also.

On a 390GT application they were drilled for a 14 bolt exhaust and received a little better valve spring. Otherwise 390GT heads are like any other FE head for a given year. All had the same 2.02" and 1.55" valves.

It's easy to get confused because all the reference books are wrong.

Royce
 RE: Casting numbers are meaningless on most FE's -- giacamo, 03/09/2004
trevor the 390 gt is just a 4v 390 with a hotter cam stiffer springs and heads driled and taped for the specal exaust used in the unibody,s as in mustangs cyclone,s ec,t
 In other words, the casting number... -- Dan Davis, 03/15/2004
...ONLY identifies the raw casting, not any machine work done to it.

Cheers,
Dan
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20594&Reply=20594><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 cam.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jeff, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote> need a reply on moog springs , posted 3/5/04 , account auction ending soon.  now what are the specs. on stock 1967 390 2v. cam. has any one run the holley 500 c.f.m. 2v.to replace there stock autolite #2100 ? what kind of results ?, i am interested in the stock look. </blockquote> 390 cam. -- jeff, 03/09/2004
need a reply on moog springs , posted 3/5/04 , account auction ending soon. now what are the specs. on stock 1967 390 2v. cam. has any one run the holley 500 c.f.m. 2v.to replace there stock autolite #2100 ? what kind of results ?, i am interested in the stock look.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20595&Reply=20594><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 cam.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can't say what those specific springs will do but you should be able to find a shop in any city of respectable size that can re-arch your existing springs.  Re-arching puts new form into the spring and there's no doubt about whether they'll fit your car.  Leaf spring arcs are linear meaning that if the free spring has an arc two inches higher than before re-arcing, they'll raise the rear two inches higher.<br><br>Stock 2V 390 cam...don't know the exact specs but the duration is in the middle 190s and the lift is around .450.  It's pretty tame by any standards you care to use.  It runs out of breath by about 3,800 rpm.<br><br>You have nothing to gain by going to the larger Holley 2bbl and changing nothing else.  Engines are relatively unsensitive to larger cfm if the engine can't use the airflow. </blockquote> RE: 390 cam. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/09/2004
Can't say what those specific springs will do but you should be able to find a shop in any city of respectable size that can re-arch your existing springs. Re-arching puts new form into the spring and there's no doubt about whether they'll fit your car. Leaf spring arcs are linear meaning that if the free spring has an arc two inches higher than before re-arcing, they'll raise the rear two inches higher.

Stock 2V 390 cam...don't know the exact specs but the duration is in the middle 190s and the lift is around .450. It's pretty tame by any standards you care to use. It runs out of breath by about 3,800 rpm.

You have nothing to gain by going to the larger Holley 2bbl and changing nothing else. Engines are relatively unsensitive to larger cfm if the engine can't use the airflow.
 RE: 390 cam. -- jeff, 03/10/2004
i do not believe coil springs can be re-arched. thanks for your input.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20586&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I need an opinion for a 4 barrel manifold for 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I searched the forum for opinions and found a couple, I have a stock 1970 390 that is originally a 2v. I have a holley 650 to put on it and want to know what manifold I should buy. I want torque. I dont really go over 5000 rpms, so which one would be best to make this big old car go? Edelbrock performer, Edelbrock performer RPM, Air gap performer, or something else? Thanks for anybody's opinion. Right now, I am leaving the stock cam in it. I will probably change it next year for something mild.  It is a street car that will be driven to the track a couple of times a year and ran a couple of times. (67 galaxie) </blockquote> I need an opinion for a 4 barrel manifold for 390 -- Steve M, 03/09/2004
I searched the forum for opinions and found a couple, I have a stock 1970 390 that is originally a 2v. I have a holley 650 to put on it and want to know what manifold I should buy. I want torque. I dont really go over 5000 rpms, so which one would be best to make this big old car go? Edelbrock performer, Edelbrock performer RPM, Air gap performer, or something else? Thanks for anybody's opinion. Right now, I am leaving the stock cam in it. I will probably change it next year for something mild. It is a street car that will be driven to the track a couple of times a year and ran a couple of times. (67 galaxie)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20588&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: It's hard to beat the Performer for that use.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Opinions will vary but unless you're going with a more robust cam, headers, and other higher-spm modifications, the standard Performer works very well in stock and very mild low-rpm torque applications.<br><br>If you were anticipating punching up the top end power down the road, I'd opt for the Performer RPM. </blockquote> RE: It's hard to beat the Performer for that use. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/09/2004
Opinions will vary but unless you're going with a more robust cam, headers, and other higher-spm modifications, the standard Performer works very well in stock and very mild low-rpm torque applications.

If you were anticipating punching up the top end power down the road, I'd opt for the Performer RPM.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20596&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: It's hard to beat the Performer for that use.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks. I was just curious about the difference between the performer and the RPM. It has a 3:93 gear in it and I am probably going to leave the heads alone. So the only modifications I was looking at was a cam down the road and that is about it. I am a little rpm shy since I just blew up a 351 Cleveland last summer due to the valves floating at 6200 rpm, so I am done with anything over 5000, so I was thinking if I could just get some decent torque to get it moving, I wont have to take it up that high.  </blockquote> RE: It's hard to beat the Performer for that use. -- Steve M, 03/09/2004
Thanks. I was just curious about the difference between the performer and the RPM. It has a 3:93 gear in it and I am probably going to leave the heads alone. So the only modifications I was looking at was a cam down the road and that is about it. I am a little rpm shy since I just blew up a 351 Cleveland last summer due to the valves floating at 6200 rpm, so I am done with anything over 5000, so I was thinking if I could just get some decent torque to get it moving, I wont have to take it up that high.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20597&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Gerry, does it make a difference if..</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I forgot to tell you I have headers on it already also. Just checking because I will probably end up buying a manifold this weekend. I didnt know if headers would make your opinion change to the rpm performer or something else.<br><br>Thanks </blockquote> Gerry, does it make a difference if.. -- Steve M, 03/09/2004
I forgot to tell you I have headers on it already also. Just checking because I will probably end up buying a manifold this weekend. I didnt know if headers would make your opinion change to the rpm performer or something else.

Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20605&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: You sure about that 3.93 rear gear?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Oridinarily, headers won't affect intake manifold choice unless you're building a carefully considered combination (carb, intake, cam, heads, and headers).  Headers work very well on a 2v 390 and even better on a more potent engine.  Headers tend to improve the breathing of any engine across the rpm range.  The right headers can greatly improve the top end but unless you're running 2" primaries, they also help the bottom end too.<br><br>Now, on to that rear gear...  If that's right, that gear is all wrong for a low-rpm torque monster in a Galaxy.  For what you're intending, you'd want a gear no higher than a 3.25:1 with 3.0 being closer to ideal.  Besides, I don't think anyone makes a 3.93.  3.90, yes; 3.91, yes;  but no 3.93 that I've ever heard of.  Perhaps you meant 2.93? </blockquote> RE: You sure about that 3.93 rear gear? -- Gerry Proctor, 03/09/2004
Oridinarily, headers won't affect intake manifold choice unless you're building a carefully considered combination (carb, intake, cam, heads, and headers). Headers work very well on a 2v 390 and even better on a more potent engine. Headers tend to improve the breathing of any engine across the rpm range. The right headers can greatly improve the top end but unless you're running 2" primaries, they also help the bottom end too.

Now, on to that rear gear... If that's right, that gear is all wrong for a low-rpm torque monster in a Galaxy. For what you're intending, you'd want a gear no higher than a 3.25:1 with 3.0 being closer to ideal. Besides, I don't think anyone makes a 3.93. 3.90, yes; 3.91, yes; but no 3.93 that I've ever heard of. Perhaps you meant 2.93?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20610&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: You sure about that 3.93 rear gear?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>03/10/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Well, I didnt install it, so I cant say for sure about the ratio, but I can tell it is a high gear. It was in the car when I bought it. When I bought it, it had a 351 Cleveland in it and I wound it too tight and it sucked a valve. If it is in drive and I let it idle, it shifts from 1st to second in about 10 feet, so it has something under there. The speedometer is way off also, so that is why I kind of believed the guy when I got it. I think I saw somewhere  how to tell by jacking up the car and spinning the wheel and counting revolutions, but I cant find that thread.  </blockquote> RE: You sure about that 3.93 rear gear? -- Steve M, 03/10/2004
Well, I didnt install it, so I cant say for sure about the ratio, but I can tell it is a high gear. It was in the car when I bought it. When I bought it, it had a 351 Cleveland in it and I wound it too tight and it sucked a valve. If it is in drive and I let it idle, it shifts from 1st to second in about 10 feet, so it has something under there. The speedometer is way off also, so that is why I kind of believed the guy when I got it. I think I saw somewhere how to tell by jacking up the car and spinning the wheel and counting revolutions, but I cant find that thread.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=20675&Reply=20586><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: You sure about that 3.93 rear gear?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff> Larry V, <i>03/14/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote> I put a performer RPM on my 390 2v Cyclone  and have been very happy with it. I hope to change cams and install headers soon. Any suggestions on cam and headers ( I was thinking try-Ys) would be appeciated. The car has 3.0 gears and is a convertible so it is heavy.    </blockquote> RE: You sure about that 3.93 rear gear? -- Larry V, 03/14/2004
I put a performer RPM on my 390 2v Cyclone and have been very happy with it. I hope to change cams and install headers soon. Any suggestions on cam and headers ( I was thinking try-Ys) would be appeciated. The car has 3.0 gears and is a convertible so it is heavy.
 Larry, my 390 2v setup is going like this -- Steve M, 03/14/2004
Larry, right now I have a 390 2v that I bought the edelbrock performer manifold for. I bought the hooker super comp headers for it and a holley 650. I am getting help from everybody right now on which cam to use. I am going for power to be built the sooner the better on the rpm band for me because my big ole galaxie weighs so much. The first thing you need to ask yourself is what are you going to use the car for. I want to drive my car to work everyday and I want it to have a reliable setup and only go to the track a couple of times a year to let her run free. The guys here know a lot about these motors and can help you greatly. The hooker headers look like they bolt ok, but somebody on here told me to check a weld bead on one of the ports and they were right. They said I would have an exhaust leak on one side and I did. That is how much these guys know about the FE motors. Good luck with your setup and I will let you know how everything goes when I put these new parts on if it ever gets warm here in Ohio..
 Rocker Shafts -- Dan Dunn, 03/08/2004
I have a new set of Sealed Power non-adjustable rocker assemblies p/n RA-1009 that I bought and then decided to go with adjustables. Would anyone be interested in buying these or trading for a set of adjustables?
Go to the top of this page
Go back one page Back    Next Go forward one page

121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140