1 49/64, lots of times people put in 1 3/4 since they dont have the proper info

T.O.

First time responding, hope I'm doing this right. I built a 352, and a 360, both "weeped for about a week then stopped. The explanation I received was the freeze plugs are softer than the block and after a few heat cucles they (the freeze plugs) will conform to the block and seal up tight. Hope this helps

The crank turned .020 under is no big deal. You can turn up to .060" under and that crank will still be fine.

The block wil be fine too but you will have all sorts of fun trying to make the intake manifold align with the heads, it will have to be milled to match. You will also hav problems getting te oil leak to stop around the distibutor because the seal will not be squeezed in the hole.

Royce

the pump you have is a 1965 pump it should work just fine i belive the gt 350 500 hp pumps wear same but had a larger pully with deaper slot for the belt so it would not jump off during hi rpm

No, I've had several 60 T-birds including a 360 HP standard w/od. Other than what the 'Bird came, with no other headers will fit.
One piece of advise: International truck makes a muffler that is the same as the 58/60 bird, measure the old muffler and go to a parts house and match these up with a International listing. The cost is 1/2 of the T-bird part.

i think u willl find what u neeed at sanderson headers/ there in so san francisco/ they make a several shorty headers for the fe... good luck

i,v used the holly and the autolight i cant see much differents betwean them.

I know I have several spacers but need to dig them out I'll try today for ya no promises, not sure about weather they are provisions for pvc or not been long time since I've been involve in two BBL. Also have 2 Intakes for Two Barrels.

see. nothing here.

http://www.moderndriveline.com

is the best there is in my opinion. He did my trio of Holleys and they work perfectly. Joe is fast, fair and knows carburetors. He takes a personal interest in building carbs especially for Fords. He's a Ford guy.

I'll post his phone # this evening.

I have been told that if it drops all the way down you can grab it through the oil drain hole with a magnet. I am holding off on distributor work right now until someone tries this out and reports back to me.LOL

It should be pretty simple. Takes me only a short time to get the oil pan off on a 69 428 with headers. On Mustangs the crossmember is held on by only 2 bolts. Just remove the bolts and move the crossmember out of the way. If you don't have headers you should be able to take it off completely. Then undo all the pan bolts and you can move the front of the pan down and reach in and grab the shaft. You might have to turn the engine a bit if the rear crank throws are are down and in the way holding the back of the pan. I don't think you have to undo the pickup unless you want to remove the pan. Even that isn't too hard.

I am going to catch hell for this one but leave it there if you're sure it hit bottom. Install a new one. I have seen it done more than once.

Been there , I used two magnets to get mine out. Use a bar type (round, solid about 4" long) in the pan and a large one outside. Tie a string to the bar type (make the string wet first) and use the large magnet on a rag to guid the bar magnet to the shaft. Then retreave in reverse. May take some time but you can do it this way. Use the side of the pan on the way to and from the sump. You may try just the large magnet on the outside by itself first. Harbo Freights has the large (150#) for about $7.

Before you decide on the erson set check out the ones made at this place:
http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/428-FE.html
Something like $599 a set but I did install a set and am pretty pleased.