Skip Navigation Links.
 |  Restricted Oil Flow in valve train -- Scott, 10/10/2003
Does anyone have experience as to why I am getting restricted oil flow through the rocker arm assembly? I have a fresh rebuilt 390. Primed the oil pump etc ... I ran it for about 5 minutes and heard a tick in the valve train. I took off the valve cover and the head looked pretty dry. There is a little oil at the rocker arms but not very much. I took off the rocker arm assembly … spun the oil pump and had plenty off oil flow from the gallery in the head that feeds the rocker arm tower/pedestal. There seems to be very little room for oil flow in the tower once the bolt is in there. Is this normal? A mechanic mentioned putting a “shoulder bolt” in tower/pedestal that feeds the rocker arm shaft. Has anyone heard of this? The oil holes on the rocker arm shaft are facing down.
Thanks,
Scott
|
|  | RE: Restricted Oil Flow in valve train -- Tim, 10/10/2003
Could be the wrong bolts used at the oil feed ports, there should be two "necked down" rocker bolts at these oil feeds, drivers side would be second bolt from the front, passenger would be second from the rear. If you line up all four bolts, you will see the difference. |
|  | RE: Restricted Oil Flow in valve train -- giacamo, 10/14/2003
you have the roung bolt in thear............. |
 | Transmission ID Tag and Casting #'s -- Ken, 10/10/2003
How can I identify the ID tag and casting numbers on the trans of a 1968 GT 390 4 speed? |
| | RE: Transmission ID Tag and Casting #'s -- Ken, 10/10/2003
For a 68 GT 4spd |
| C6AE-0 heads, Any info? -- Tim, 10/09/2003
Anyone know what the specs are or what thes heads were made for?
Thanks!! |
| | They are C6AE-U. -- Royce Peterson, 10/10/2003
Used on 352-390-41-428 in 1966. Small intake port, low exhaust port. Sometimes drilled for Thermactor. Worth about $50 a pair if rebuildable.
Royce |
| cast iron headers -- Ben Jackson, 10/09/2003
Hey I have a set of the '64 427 cast iron headers and was wondering how much to ask for them. They have been ceramic coated inside and out and are in excellent condition. Any help would be great. Email me at ghosttownposse@msn.com |
| | RE: cast iron headers -- Ben Jackson, 10/09/2003
I almost forgot! The part numbers are C3AE-9431D and C2AE-9430B |
| | RE: cast iron headers -- ed cougar, 10/09/2003
About $50 bucks-- well ok they're ceramic coated $75 sounds good to me! I really don't know what someone would pay for them but one mans junk is another mans treasure! Sorry cast 427 headers not junk. |
| | | RE: cast iron headers -- galaxiefreak64, 10/10/2003
ed is crazy, becuase i sold some on ebay for $700 |
| | RE: cast iron headers -- Gary Shaw, 10/22/2003
Would these work on a 1963 galaiex ? what R u asking for the hearders |
| | | RE: cast iron headers -- Ben Jackson, 10/24/2003
I'm not sure if they will work on a '63. I need to get $600 out of them. |
|  | RE: cast iron headers -- Jim Thomas, 11/16/2003
Do you still the cast iron headers for sale? If you do please advise price and condition. Thanks,
Jim
jthomas427@sbcglobal.net |
| | | RE: cast iron headers -- Ben Jackson, 11/17/2003
I still have them for sale. |
| | | | RE: cast iron headers -- galaxiefreak64, 11/22/2003
how much will you take
not a lot of paper because im kinda broke but not where you get scammed
|
| | | | | RE: cast iron headers -- Richard, 11/24/2003
these will fit '60-'64 full size fords with an fe engine. but will not clear power steering without some work. ie. spacing the engine up about 1/4" or so. |
| | | | | | RE: dont get took thoes are 62-63 406not 427 -- jr, 11/26/2003
fakers 427 are long |
| S-Code 390 What engine #`s ? Help!! -- Anders, 10/09/2003
Hi! I have a 1967 Fastback GT 390 with a S-code engine, (without engine)what engine numbers should be on the block&heads on a original engine? I know of a engine, that he clames to be the original one, but how do I know that? Please help me guys!! Email me at a.sven@online.no |
| 100 psi oil pressure -- galaxiefreak64, 10/08/2003
in my 1968 f-100 i have a 390 with 100psi, is this too much? |
| | RE: 100 psi oil pressure -- giacamo, 10/08/2003
I do not see how you keep the dist. and cam gear from trashing out. That is way to high for continous use . |
| | RE: 100 psi oil pressure -- Charlie, 10/10/2003
what pump are you running (high voll. or high press), and tell us about the rest of the engine?
Charlie |
| | | RE: 100 psi oil pressure -- galaxiefreak64, 10/10/2003
well its a high volume, the timming chain is double has a 4v carb on it (fomoco) and 1964 galaxie heads, but the rest is stock |
| | | | If you have a front-sump oil pan... -- Dave Shoe, 10/10/2003
...you may be damaging your engine. If you have a larger type pan, problems can be averted.
It's critically important that the oil pan not be sucked dry by the oil pump. With all that extra pressure, you must use oiling restrictors in the heads to prevent dumping all the oil to the top of the engine. You must also run more than five quarts of oil in your engine. Seven is a good starting point, and some pickups do get an oversized pan. Most pickups, however, use a Galaxie style pan.
Despite what the books say, an oil pump is not the first item to update if you wish to increase the oiling capacity of your FE. The pan generally comes in first, and other goodies also come in before a new pump.
I'd post more, but it's pretty tough to edit my sloppy writing into clean posts nowadays, so I guess I'm learning how to be less wordy.
Shoe. |
| | | | | Hey, I can edit again! -- Dave Shoe, 10/11/2003
All right! Thank you Mr. F for the bug fix. It's once again easy to edit posts.
Shoe.
|
| | | | | | Oops. I don't mean "edit posts"... -- Dave Shoe, 10/11/2003
...I mean "edit text", and refer to the ability to highlite text while writing a post, allowing me to cut and paste blocks of text. This feature was missing for a couple weeks. With my writing style this feature is greatly welcomed.
Shoe. |
| | | | | | No problem, Dave - been a little too busy for maintenance. [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/12/2003
n/m |
| | | | RE: 100 psi oil pressure -- giacamo, 10/10/2003
do you have 100 psi at cold start up what is your oil press at idel warm. most 390 ,s i rebild have 30 to 40 hot idel and 70 to 80 at 6000 rpm. i have sean hi oil press be for hp pumps check dist gear for wear. most hi oil press realley nockes the hell out them.... |
| | | | | RE: 100 psi oil pressure -- galaxiefreak64, 10/11/2003
my truck has 100 psi at cold start, i have mech. gauge but i have tore it apart and i am putting a stock one on there. sience its a daily driver |
| | | | RE: 100 psi oil pressure -- Charlie, 10/11/2003
I run a melling hv in all my 428 & 390 builds. I also restrict oil to the top end with 90k drilled holes. Oil pres runs 75 to 80 lbs on start up with 40 wheight oil 8 quarts in the pan and an extra .5 quart in the oil cooler and remote.
Did you check bearing clearence on rebuild, also your pressure relief spring may me stuck on pump. Check not only your cam dist gear for stress but also your oil filter, make sure no buldges. Also is your gauge mech or elec. If electric go buy a $15 gauge and check act pressure before pulling any thing apart. Do a search here on oil pressure.
Hope this helps
Charlie |
| High Volume ~v~ High Pressure pumps -- P, 10/08/2003
Although this is discussed in a following thread, I wanted to post it under the title noted so people could see it better, rather than hide it within some other thread.
The following was from a conversation "we" had on another forum, regarding marine FE motors. It is, however, very informative and from two guys who know what they are talking about. In the event Royce, Dave Shoe, Mr. F, etc., disagree with what is said here, please advise, otherwise I'm considering it the gospel.
regards to all, P
"I have to chime in on the oil pump subject, as I've built several
engines with a variety of oil pumps, both normal rebuilds and high
performance engines. As "P" and others have stated, the standard
oil pump is just fine and will work OK in marine applications, but, I
want to clarify an advantage to using the HV (high volume) pumps that
I have enjoyed and that many may not be aware of. First, a couple
statements on the these different varieties of pumps. The standard
pump is just that, desgined to pump the same volume of oil and
maintain the same lubrication system pressure as the OEM pump the
engine was built with. Pumping chamber/rotor volumes are the same as
the OEM pumps, and the pressure relief spring is set to the same
relief pressure as the OEM specs. High volume pumps utilize
(typically) a taller rotor and pumping chamber volume, and as such
they can pump 10-25% more oil than a standard pump per revolution.
And, the HV pump pressure relief is set at (or close to) the OEM
pressure relief spec. What does this mean? At higher RPMS on an
engine with standard bearing clearances (let's say 2500RPM or so and
above) your standard (or high volume) pump, without pressure relief,
would raise the lubrication system pressure to very high (80-100
psi+) pressures, and bad things will happen (ruptured oil filter,
etc.), but, of course the pressure relief bypass opens and regulates
this to a safe pressure (50-70 psi), so these bad things do not
happen. Note: Once you get to the relief pressure (and assuming it is
the same for both pumps), both HV and standard pumps will flow
exactly the same volume of oil through the same engine! So you might
ask, why do I want an HV pump? Simple, at low RPM (i.e. below the RPM
that the relief spring opens) the HV pump will put out a higher
volume of oil, and thus carry a higher oil pressure than a standard
pump at the same RPM. An example would be: let's say your engine
holds 24 psi at hot idle, and 60 psi at cruise rpm with a standard
oil pump. Changing to a HV pump on the same engine will raise the
hot idle oil pressure (to like 30psi), and the pressure (and volume)
at cruise rpms will remain unchanged (assuming similar relief valve
settings in the HV pump). I like a bit more oil pressure at low RPM,
and as such , lean toward the HV pumps, even in stock rebuilds.
Another potential advantage with the HV pump is if something goes
wrong and comes apart causing an internal "leak" in the lubrication
system, (like you throw a pushrod and a lifer comes up out of it's
bore), the HV pump may be able to move enough oil to keep up some
level oil lubrication pressure in the engine to let you limp home,
whereas a standard pump may not be able to keep up with the
internal "bleeding".
To round out the categories: The HP (high pressure) pump is just a
stock pump with the pressure relief spring shimmed up or replaced
with a stiffer spring to raise the relief setting. Running higher
pressures will move more oil through the system and can lead to oil
starvation ("empty pan - all oil in the valve covers/lifter valley"),
so be careful. The HV/HP pump is an HV pump with the same relief
setting modification, and can move even more oil before the relief
opens, so it is particularly suited to causing starvation problems
with a stock pan, pickup, and drainback, so avoid it on a "stock"
rebuild. It is intended for engines with more bearing clearance
(less drag for more HP)and more perfomance oriented oiling system
preparations.
So, the standard pump is fine, but make mine HV, and avoid the HP and
HV/HP variants on your marine FE engine! "
----------------------------------------
Hope this helps you automotive FE owners make an informed decision regarding which one is best for your application,
P
|
| | Sure, P - sounds reasonable to me, so far as it goes. [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/12/2003
n/m |
| | But I'd prefer a blueprinted OEM pump than off-the-shelf HV. [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/12/2003
n/m |
| | RE: High Volume ~v~ High Pressure pumps -- John, 10/14/2003
naturally...a HV pump gives you more pressure at lower rpm's. Ever notice how some cars (like mercedes) have an oil pressure gauge that rises as soon as the engine starts and then NEVER moves? This is because the oil pump has enough output (because it is a high volume pump) to achieve max oil pressure (oil bypass opens) at an idle. Yep, a HV pump in an FE is a good thing. A HP pump is a waste of time and can cause many problems UNLESS you are building an extreme race engine (i.e. NOT for the street)...my 2 cents worth |
| Oil in a rebuilt 390 -- Scott, 10/08/2003
I have a rebuilt 390. I have primed the oil pump and see some oil around around the rocker arms on the shaft. There is oil on 1 rocker arm tip (where the push rod sits). The lifters are submerged in oil. Lastly, the oil looks very aerated. My question is how much oil should i see in the head and rocker arms before I should run the engine? Does this sound like something is wrong? Thnx. |
| | RE: Oil in a rebuilt 390 -- P, 10/08/2003
what would be wrong with pouring oil over the rockers, valve stems, and into the lifters prior to start up, just to be sure everything was drenched?
P |
| | RE: Oil in a rebuilt 390 -- giacamo, 10/08/2003
if you see oil at the rocker shaftes i say you have it primed. |
| 428 CJ Windage Tray/Oil Pan Gasket -- Bud, 10/08/2003
What is the correct gasket installation for a windage tray? The gasketing on my engine is a haphazard combination of RTV and cork gaskets, so it is not really clear. The second owner (I am the fourth) appears to have had the engine apart for a freshening and never got the oil pan/windage tray to seal properly. So to get everything tight, I took the oil pan off to reseal it.
One would presume that the correct installation would be two oil pan gaskets. One between the oil pan and windage tray and the second between the windage tray and the block. Is this correct?
Thanks. |
| what year 390 heads are better? -- BrentP, 10/07/2003
I have a set of C6AE-R heads that are in great shape and as I understand they are a bit better than other '66 and newer due to having the larger intake ports. I also have a set of C4AE-? heads off a '65 t-bird that are in great shape. I am guessing the C4AE are the same except for no emission hump in the exhaust port so are a bit better? |
|