Just read your post/request tonight and it looks like there's 3 days to go on those heads so you've got time. I just responded to another posters request for info regarding the C6AE-R heads.

As I said in the other answer/post they're great heads. Yes they were the heads bolted on '66 428 Police Interceptors as well as 352-2Vs, 390-2Vs, '66, early '67 GT 390s. Pre emission heads. The '66 428 PIs had solid lifters so there was adjustable rockers on those. But nothing else was special about them. I have a set still bolted to a '66 352-2V removed from a '66 pick-up. They will be unbolted from the old '52 and used on a future FE project.

So to answer your specific questions:

It doesn't matter that they're unmatching #s unless you plan a concours resto.

They'll work well with 9.4:1 pistons if these pistons have been designed to go with the C6-R cc volume thus offering a true 9.4:1 or a little higher.

I see the seller has an opening bid of $100 which does not meet his/her reserve. I personally would not pay more than a $100 for a set of C6AE-R heads. Actually I think $50-$75 is about right. With a little boneyard scrounging they're still easily found. Especially lift the hoods of any '66 Ford/Merc/pickup. But if you're not around too many good old car wrecking yards maybe something like $125 is still reasonable to you. Plus you have to pay his/her $15 boxing charge and add in the shipping which may very likely be around $100 total for this set to reach you.

Opinion about eBay sellers who charge a packaging-boxing fee....naw I shouldn't use that language here or anywhere for that matter.

nash ask for flat tops 10.5 ,s cast if you wont to make some power.i have ran cast pistones in 390,s and never had a piston problem.have machine shop bore to piston rec spects...

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chuck if you have a kr mustang i would keep it stock.the noise has to be somthing simpel call some of your loakel shops and see if someone has a old sun distibutor machine and rebild yours or buy one and recalabrate it to your engine spectsand old sun distibutor machine has saved me maney distibutor headackes....

paw hase a ford crome open element air cleaner 14" that looks great and you can find after market that workes just fine and about aney swap meat you can 390 4v stickers

Hi, I have the same problem. Mine is a 67 GT 390. Could not find the original Part yet.

Same problem here. I am going to end up sending my lid out to be chromed. It will probably run between $150 and $200 but I see no other choice right now....

http://fomoco.com/contact-fomoco-obsolete.shtml

I need a complete assembly for a 390 4V 1969 Mercury Cougar.

Type "A' is not laced with additives like Type "F" and "FA" are. Using Type "F" in a Type "A" system will likely cause seal problems.

You can still buy all known types of fluid, use the recommended type to avoid problems. Type "A" is available from all major chains like Pep Boys, NAPA and Auto Zone. You might have to have them special order some if it's not on the shelf.

Did we not cover this topic well enough last week?

Royce

Notice there is no replacement for Type "A", use only Type "A" in components designed for that fluid.

http://jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18498&Reply=18498

Royce

The so - called 64 1/2 Mustangs (actually generator equipped 1965 models built before approximately August 1964) used the Eaton style pump that uses Type "A" fluid. The Ford pumps use Type "F" fluid. Read the glove box owners manual or the factory shop manual for more info.

Royce

The rods and pistons are for a low compression truck 390. The casting numbers are consistent with any FE from 65 - 71. The 352 markings are meaningless.

You say heads are marked C5AE 9425-C? That sounds like an intake manifold marking.

The transmission has a 1974 part ID number.

Royce

You are pushing over 4000 lbs around, soplan on using some 4:11or 3:73 gears anyway.Performer RPM should work well and will get you about 70 lbs lighter then the stock intake.F.E.s really wake up with free flowing exhaust,so headers and good mufflers will be in order.A torquey cam like Comp Cams 268h will go well with the intake and exhaust mods.A Holley 750(3310) with vacum secondaries would work fine with this combo.
I would stay away from a double pumper with a car this heavy on the street.

Why does everyone think this is a 4000+ pound car?

The 4 Door, with a 427, convertabe, and all the options is a 4000 pound car.

Mines a 2 door, 390, and a hardtop.

Thanks for your insight!

OOPS! I meant a snowballs chance IN hell, not OF hell. My fingers betray me again.

ryan run engine to get every thing nice and hot then try to remove bolts this proces hase worked for me befor

Try this. Get a can of penetrant like liquid wrench or pb blaster or even wd40. For a week, drive it to warm it up. Let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and spray down the bolts. Do this every day for a week or so. My machinist told me to do this on mine before trying to take off the exh manifolds and it worked. Didn't break a single bolt.

I just removed the exhaust manifold off of my 429 in a 69 engine bay, so I had to deal with double the effort w/rust and lack of room! I went with the other suggestions already posted as well as using 2 other tips:

1- Always use a 6 point wrench/socket if you can, a 12-point will round off the bolt just when you thought you got it loose.

2- Not sure if this is a problem for you, but I had a problem getting to some of the bolts and found I could only use small box wrenches on some bolts. Besides the lack of torque power, I had trouble even gripping the wrench so I made my own little 'invention'. I used a 6-point ratcheting socket which fit nice and snugly on the bolt. I looped a 6' piece of nylon rope (fairly thin stuff) through the other side of the wrench and looped the other end around the middle part of another wrench(you can use anything straight where you can get a good 2-hand grip on it). I got in a position directly in line with the path of the wrench (one time this was under the oil pan) and with my hands on either side of the rope used the straight bar/wrench to slowly pull down/up the wrench (similar to a seated row machine motion if your familiar with that). This gave me the extra torque power I needed to loosen the nuts. Worked like a charm. I would make sure the wrench is really snug on the bolt, but if it is, this acted like a giant breaker bar. The first 6 bolts took 3 hours, the last 8 with this took an hour, so it worked great for me.

Hope this helps!
Mike