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 |  1958 for fe WITH fORDOMATIC -- Gary Laraman, 12/23/2005
I have a 58 ford skyliner with 332 v8 and fordomatic. It has avacuum line from the manifild to teh transmission. None of theservice manuals or fordomatic manual reference a vacuum line hookup to the trans. Mine has stopped shifting. Does anyone know if that vacuum line is supposed to be attached ?. |
|  | I do not think you have a Ford-O-matic, -- Lou, 12/23/2005
I think some one has put a FMX in its place. FMXs had a modulator on the left side that has a vaccum line connected to it. If these line fell off or the modulator went bad the trans would not shift.
Post the codes on the data plate that is on the side of the transmission. If you belive this to be the correct 1958 Ford-0 trans plug the vaccum line and see what happends. |
| | | RE: I do not think you have a Ford-O-matic, -- Gary Laraman, 12/23/2005
Lou, I was just under the car and can't find the data plate with codes anywhere. I do notice that the shift lever seems to have 2 detents around where the D mark is. It looks like I have a good vacuum connection now. It was originally hooked uP to the fuel pump vacuum output which I assumed was wrong if I needed engine vacuum chages to shift. GaRY |
| | | | RE: I do not think you have a Ford-O-matic, -- Lou, 12/23/2005
The vaccum line should go to the intake manifold. The data plate should be on the side of the main transmission case just above the shift levers. |
| | | | | RE: I do not think you have a Ford-O-matic, -- Gary Laraman, 12/23/2005
lou, I can't see the data plate. i will need to put the car on a lift to get a better look. if this were an FMX is it supposed to shift from 1-2 and then from 2 - 3 on a normal takeoff? Mine starts in 2nd unless I manually start it in low and then shift to drive. |
| | | | | | Sounds like a Ford-O -- Lou, 12/25/2005
It may be time to take it to a transmission shop. |
| | | | | |  | RE: Sounds like a Ford-O -- greg f, 01/05/2006
sounds like you have a fx trans and as far it is not shifting if modualator is equipped yes vaccum line should be connected or govoner valve sticking located w/ aside cover on extension housing w/2 screws screw driver type or a dirty filter which supplys oil to govoner for proper shifting greg f |
 | '67 Engine Color -- Bill F, 12/22/2005
I have a 1967 Mustang, 390, AT, A/C, P/S, mfg date of 9/66. The detail guide says to use ford corporate blue (dark) I have seen a couple "professional" restorations that used the lighter ford blue. Is it dark blue only for '67?
Thanks |
 | what size crank pilot on a 1969 351W mated to a C6 -- jerry S, 12/22/2005
I need a new torque converter but the neither B&M Racing nor TCI Auto seem to make one for a 351W from 1969. There are torque convetrers available for crank pilots of 1.375 and 1.85 inches. What size crank pilot do I have? |
| 67 390 GT Mustang -- WACO, 12/21/2005
I bought a 67 390 GT Fastback in 1983, the motor was rebuilt just prior to when I bought it. I put it in the garage in 1984, now after 21 years and three kids I have the $$ to make it see the light of day again. I know now that the rebuild was amature, the intake manifold has a code of C8AE9425 A, exhaust manifolds say C15E9430-A. This would indicate that the intake, heads, and exhaust manifolds are not correct, so my question now is what kind of block do I really have? I can't see any numbers on it anywhere, including on the block at the #8 cylinder. I don't want to buy correct stuff for a 390 if it turns out to be something other than a 390 block. Is there any way to tell what this Heinz 57 is? |
| | Measure the bore and stroke -- Royce P, 12/22/2005
there really is no easier way to determine if you have a 390 or not. Any year 390 block is basically identical specification wise and any of them will perform equally well.
The heads on your car were originally either C7AE-A casting number between the spark plugs or C6AE-R. These are extremely common at any junk yard in the southwest United States. Expect to pay $50 - $100 for a pair of rebuildable cores. They come drilled for 8 or 14 bolts on the exhaust side. Don't worry about which you find. Any machinist can drill them if needed. Find the best set of heads that need the least machine work and go from there.
Exhaust manifolds for your application sell on Ebay daily for $100 - $200 depending on condition.
Royce |
| Mustang Electrical problem -- gurney, 12/21/2005
My 67 Mustang, S Code has recently developed and electrical issue. The inside lights and headlights are pulsing now when the engine is on. Car still starts okay, but it seems the trickle charger (battery tender) is on all the time. The car is driven about once a month and started a couple times a month. Any ideas on where to start looking. |
| | RE: Mustang Electrical problem -- John, 12/21/2005
Check the fan belt.....if it's OK.....try the voltage regulator. If you can give further symptoms, then maybe a more pin-point answer can be made (i.e. does the pulsing go away once the car is driven for a while, and does the pulsing speed up as the engine rpm increases?) |
| | | RE: Mustang Electrical problem -- gurney, 12/22/2005
Thanks John, No the pulsing doesnt go away, just increases with engine speed. Fan belt seems tight. The battery wouldn't charge while the battery cables were connected. The battery tender would show it wasn't connected right. Took the cables off the battery and it showed it was charging properly. I checked the charger on another car and it also worked fine. It doesn't appear to be the battery. It is an Optima red top that is about 2 years old. |
| | | | RE: Mustang Electrical problem -- John, 12/23/2005
Hmmmm......first off all, the pulsing sounds like the regulator cutting in and out. Typical of an old relay type regulator.
Since it is not the fan belt, maybe the pulley on the alternator shaft is loose, but that's uncommon.
Check all grounds....alternator ground and battery ground for example.
Charging check....engine off.....12 VDC across battery terminals....engine on at idle.....13.5 to 14.5 VDC at idle (not to worry if a bit outside of this range)
If voltmeter drops from 13.5 volts to 12 volts when engine is idling, then charging circuit is likely a problem.
I suspect the voltage regulator...other than as the car sits a lot, it may be merely a bad connection somewhere....often a bad ground.
Get yourself a multimeter and do some testing. Good luck. |
| 67 s code mustang -- Jon Varley, 12/19/2005
1967 Mustang coupe non Gt 390 4speed
Ok I got my Marti report and 2,932 with the 390/4speed.I need all the ford lovers to tell me how many non-GTs 1967 mustang coupes with this s code motor and 5 code trans did they make. My car is one of 178 with paint and trim codes I need to know how many non-GTs CAN YOU HELP ME Jon V |
| cruisomatic -- Bruce Bradley, 12/19/2005
My 65 mustang cruisomatic is acting up and may need rebuild. Do I have any options beyond regular rebuild? Can I have it beefed up or enhanced in any way? |
| | RE: cruisomatic -- David, 12/20/2005
I have a FMX and I got it beefed up with shift kits and differnet gearing and it works great and shifts hard but I am thinking about putting in the c4 I have and C4's are the way to go for mild engines and summitracing has all kinds of stiff for c4's to make them with stand 1000hp. so if you can get your hands on a c4 rebuild it and beef it up. |
| Total Control Products -- Gary, 12/18/2005
I have a '68 GT-XR7 390 with power steering. Has anyone installed a Total Control steering rack kit for this or any other application? Feedback? Was the factory power steering pump used or was the one sold by TCP used? Has anyone installed their motor mounts? Feedback?
Thanks for your input,
Gary |
| 67 390 build -- Bill, 12/18/2005
Hi, Ive got eldebrock perf intake & 650 edel carb. Heads are stock at 71-74cc w/ 2.09 valves. What is the biggest cam I can go with to have best horsepower gains? With stock valve train? I'd like to be around 400hp. Any inexpensive suggestions please. thanks Bill |
| | RE: 67 390 build -- galaxie390, 12/18/2005
Bill,
Assuming you have stock heads I would use for example:
The 390gt/428cj cam, duration 206-220 at .050, or
The Crower 270hdp, dur is 210-220 at .050
or
The Summit or PAW generic cam with 204-214 dur at .050
With stock heads and that kinda small performer intake I wouldnt go bigger than the above. Best to use new springs & 1-piece retainers but you might sneak by with stock springs if you dont go over 5000 which will work fine as a shift point.
You'll probably make 335hp with manifolds, maybe 350hp with headers, but not 400.
But the Summit or PAW cam&lifters you could do for under $100, it sounds like you're on a budget. |
| | | RE: 67 390 build -- Bill, 12/19/2005
Galaxie390, thanks for the info, If I used a cam w/ a .520 lift, would I possibly damage top of pistons with valves? Would I benefit from the heads being worked over? Possibly milled or 3 angle? Local guys price about $500 w/ new hardened seats & springs. To get 400, would I have to get a 428 crank? Bump to a 406 c.i.? I'd like to not have to get into the bottom end of the motor. But if I have to, I could. Also, would a new MSD ignition really help out alot? Thanks Bill |
| | | | RE: 67 390 build -- galaxie390, 12/19/2005
Bill,
At this level it would help to know a bit about the car:
Galaxie/Fairlane/Mustang?
C-6 or 4spd?
Rear? 3.25? 3.89? Posi?
Exhaust - (dual of course )
2.25"? 2.5? 3.0? Flowmasters? Dynomax?
Flat or Fairlane Manifolds? 428cj?
Headers? (Diam & Length)
ok, with all that I can even tell you what et and mph the car will run!
Now for those questions:
.520 lift is "iffy" on some valve springs - they may bounce but more than that they may bind or break - check carefully!
Piston-to-valve probably fine but check it (you can do it even with the heads still on)
Sure - if you want to do the heads, put in 209x166 (CJ) valves, hog out the bowls accordingly, clean up the tops of the runners - now you very nearly have CJ heads - worth about 20hp.
OK, now you have $500 in iron heads.
Add $400 or so for a 428 crank and now you will be in the 400hp range.
Or you could spend $1300 on the Edelbrock heads, pick up about 60hp (40 more than the CJ) and lose 50lbs too - and make over 400hp even on the 390.
Right about now you gotta lose that little Edelbrock intake and get a Perf RPM or a c7ae Police intake or a repro.
A 650 Holley will now be too small, use 735-780 cfm but 650 is "passable".
With everything I just said you now want a bigger cam, say the old 427-4v cam which is about like the Comp 270S - even the Comp 282S is ok in a fairlane/mustang.
If you do all this and have a bored 390 with 428 crank (about 417-421 inches) you will make near 450hp, and it will be as streetable as the 429scj or the 427-4v of old. I wouldnt turn it over 5500 or so, just to be safe.
Tell me about the car and I'll tell you what it will make and run. Good luck
Yes, I was born in Ford country, my dad built many a 427 Galaxie off the assembly line - I grew up with the "FE"
galaxie390 |
| | | | | RE: 67 390 build -- Bill, 12/20/2005
galaxie390, thanks for the info, heres what i got. 73 mustang with a 67 galaxie 500 xl 390 in it. I originally wanted to restore the 67 but the kid who had it before cut off the roof for a convertible!! Couldn't get it titled because of structual integrity according to the local dmv. I made my own motor mounts and tranny mounts for the c-6, shortened the drive line and changed out the radiator support to accomadate a 3 core. #1: Now after looking at it again, the 390 has a edelbrock perf rpm and a edel 625 cfm manual choke from a purchase from ebay about 6 months ago. got a good deal. Your right, I need at least a 750 min. I saved about 60 lbs with the intake, thats good. My exhaust is a restrictive stock manifold, I had a set of truck 390 headers, but couldn't fit them with the tight shock towers. I'll need to custom make some headers i guess. Dual exhaust, glass packs. #2: Heads, I know i have the 2.09 intake, not sure about exhaust size? How would I get 166 valves in it? would I have to get them machined to fit them? I could clean them up myself, but not sure about putting in new valves. Would I need new springs? double springs, what rating? New seats? etc? #3: crank, I know a guy who has a 428 crank, not turned though, would I need to change out main bearings? would 390 bearings still fit? What about connecting rods? Leave them for increased c.i.?#4: If I would get a larger crank, like the 282s, that lift is about .548? would new springs in the old cast iron heads allow the new lift? A bigger cam would be great for me. Also, my 8.8 rear end is a 300:1, should I change out the ring/pinion to a 410:1? would it make a big differenmce? I'm trying to get a nice street mustang to run around with on weekends and local shows. Not a bracket/strip. 400 hp would be great. Thanks Bill |
| ATI Damper -- John C, 12/17/2005
I'm installing an ATI Super Damaper on my 390. I'll be running an underdrive serpentine style pulley to power my alternator. I'm going electric on my water pump. Any of you fellows have any experience with this style application? |
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