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 |  Gas Mileage -- Patrick, 11/26/2005
I have a 351W. Does anybody know the MPG for this engine? Any tips on how to get more out of it - it is pretty stock, 2bbl, headers, stock dist. |
| |  | RE: Patrick - 351W isn't an 'FE' engine. Please re-post to the Main Forum... -- Patrick, 11/27/2005
"Questions about a vintage Mustang? FE Ford Forum is the place to ask! Your fellow Ford fans are here to help with questions about parts, restoration and maintenance...or just to have fun. Most Forum discussions are about classic 1965-1973 Mustangs, BUT ANY FORD-RELATED TOPIC IS FAIR GAME except advertisements. "
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|  | This forum gets alot less traffic and most -- dennie, 11/27/2005
ques. are FE related. Mr F knows you will recieve a better response on other forum. Also i suspect the mpg for a 351 w would depend on the vehicle it's in. a 79 f-350 or a maverick. |
 | Spark plug gap -- Andy, 11/26/2005
I have bought new sparks to my 1970 Mustang V8, anybody knows aout the gap on the sparks?
Hoping for answers
Thanks and regards
from Sweden
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| 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- Kenn, 11/26/2005
Does anyone know what the distance is from the pivot to the brake rod attachment on the swing arm for a 67 with power disc brakes i think i might have the wrong one and cannot find a part number on it, or if someone has one to sell part# C7ZZ2455B please let me know.
Thankyou |
|  | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- raycfe, 11/26/2005
68 and 69 pedals are 5 inches center to center. |
| | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- walt, 11/26/2005
in my experince,when we puled the c 4 auto,dropped in a 4 speed,and used the brake and clutch support housing ,the master cylnder push rod was the wrong length,(68 cougar,parts from a 67 bb mustang) |
| | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- Kenn, 11/26/2005
The problem is that the brake pedal sits a lot lower than the clutch pedal, i have the original power brake booster and the brake pedal does measure 5" center to center, do you have any idea what the length of the pushrod is supposed to be and will the clutch pedal come out lower once it is hooked up to the clutch, i have not reinstalled the motor and tranny yet so maybe i am getting ahead of myself |
| | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- walt, 11/27/2005
ok tthis will drive the parts experts nuts,i sawed the brake rod about center length,found a sleeve,slighlty smaller id than the brake rod,tapped the sleeve and brake rods,and adjusted it to what travel i needed,and locked it down with a nut,,may be a new c 7zx part ? |
| | | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- walt, 11/27/2005
opps what tranny you running,and are you running the proper brake pedal for your applications |
| | | | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- Kenn, 11/27/2005
That was my question to begin with, i could not find a part number on the brake pedal and because this car was in boxes when i purchased it there is a chance that the pedal is the wrong one, the car is a 4sp, what is the differance between a power and non power pedal |
| | | | | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- raycfe, 11/27/2005
These are 69 pedals, Sorry I do not have a 67 out. A non power pedal mounts on or in the same place as the clutch pedal. power pedal mount on a bolt higher up on the support. Hope this helps.
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| | | | | | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- Kenn, 11/27/2005
Thankyou very much for the photo, I see they are both for auto trans, do you have any idea what the differance is with a standard trans besides the width of the pedal |
| | | | | | | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- raycfe, 11/27/2005
The pad for the pedal pad is just shorter, otherwise the same. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: 67 Mustang Brake Pedal -- Kenn, 11/27/2005
Thanks you have been a great help |
| hood scoop blinkers -- john, 11/26/2005
My brother sold my blinkers, anyone know where I can buy a set of turn signal blinkers for my 1969 Cobra Torino Hood Scoop ?
any and all help will be greatly appreciated ! |
| | RE: hood scoop blinkers -- raycfe, 11/26/2005
Should be same a mustangs. Mr F may have some, mustang vendors, Epay |
| shelby valance -- Patrick, 11/25/2005
I recently purchased a fiberglass shelby-r valance, and I want to paint it myself. Is there a special primer for fiberglass, or can I use regular metal primer before painting? |
| 390 swap -- Jerry Maloney, 11/24/2005
I am trying to install a 390in my 67 mustang with a 4 speed. The problem is that I had to put a new front clip from the firewall forward on the car as it didn't come with one. Now I have dropped my motor in and the equalizer bar won't line up. I have the correct 4spd transmission crossmember and big block equalizer mounts. I also purchased big block motor mount frame brackets from ebay, just to find out that there is no such thing, they are the same as the small block brackets I alraedy had! I have heard that I need to drill new holes in the frame where these brackets mount. How do I locate the mounting holes? Thanks for your help! |
| | The holes are already there. -- Gerry Proctor, 11/25/2005
Is it possible that you are not using the correct Mustang FE equalizer block mount? There are different block mounts for the different bodies that used the FE. A Mustang FE mount puts the block-side pivot point farther to the rear as opposed to say, a Fairlane mount, which is closer to the front.
I'm assuming that your body had the frame rails and was missing only the clip. If you had to do the frame rails too, is it possible that they're not correctly located? |
| | | RE: The holes are already there. -- Jerry Maloney, 11/25/2005
I am using the correct mustang equalizer block mount, its a reproduction from NPD. We measured another Mustang and the frame rails and front clip are dead on, but it seems like the block mount is too far to the rear of the car. Thanks for your help! |
| | | | May be the engine mounts you're using. -- Gerry Proctor, 11/25/2005
It's not unheard of for repro mounts to reposition the engine a bit more to the front or rear. Not the first time it's happened. It's inert with automatics but makes a big difference with manual trans. |
| | | | Do you have the big block equalizer bar? -- Royce P, 11/25/2005
N/m |
| | | | | RE: Do you have the big block equalizer bar? -- Jerry Maloney, 11/26/2005
I think I may have figured it out. A friend of mine just took a 406 out of his Mustang, and he doesn't need his big block block mounts anymore. After looking at his the lower mounting hole is in a different location than mine is. The guys on Ebay sold me bogus big block parts. I'll write in with the difference after I install and make sure it works. Thanks |
| | | | | | There is no difference between 67's -- Hawkrod, 11/26/2005
Small block and big block used the same mounts for 67's, in 68 they changed the small block mounts by drilling one hole in a slightly different spot. Pictures of the difference has been posted a few times. The difference changes the angle of the frame mount but not the for/aft relationship. Are you sure you mounted them correctly left to right? Also, did you get a big block trans mount? they are very different as well. Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | I meant... -- Hawkrod, 11/26/2005
A big block 4 speed crossmember is different than a smallblock one. You only mention you got a correct 4 speed crossmember but what size engine is it for? The correct one is marked 390STD and mounts to the lower bolt pattern on the floor while the smallblock one mounts to the upper bolt pattern on the floor. Hawkrod |
| 1967 mustang grill and radiator question -- bill mack, 11/24/2005
I know everyone here is basically into the fe motors, but perhaps someone can help me with a few questions regarding a recently purchased coupe I have. I am going to drop my 331 engine and t-5 trans from my late model mustang. I am going to leave the whole serpentine belt set up on the engine, but I need to locate a 4 core radiator with the inlet on the driverside, outlet passenger side. will my late model p/s pump work with early style p/s cylinder? Also I want to install the shelby style gill w/ inner lights. Do I have to change the whole nose? the stock grill has a curve to it , the shelby is flat. Thanks |
| | RE: 1967 mustang grill and radiator question -- raycfe, 11/24/2005
You need a 70 radiator, 20 inch has a 1 1/2" LH inlet, 24 has a 1 3/4" LH inlet, A 67 Sheley has different(longer) nose cone. But you maybe able to put lights in your grille,(they will not be as deep). And never tried a newer pump(the hose maybe a problem), but it should work. |
| cam -- walt, 11/23/2005
question?small block cam,c7fe-a,what does the " f" for?factory experiment?,all i know it worked darn good in a modified 351 w,with a slight gear and 4 speed |
| 390 rebuild -- mike khett, 11/22/2005
hi everyone |
| | RE: 390 rebuild -- mike khett, 11/22/2005
I have 2 fes.Im restoring a 62 galaxie xlw/ a 352 stock engine w/autolite 4 bbl carbthat runs.I also have a 65 390 out of a 65 merc sw thats on my engine stand as we speak. id like to rebuild the 390 for more power.The 390 has no ridge in the top of the cylinder and i measured the stroke to be 3/34 inches from bdc.I also have a complete set of c8ae-h 14 bolt heads that were completly rebuild at a machine shop.for street use an ocassional tire burnin what cam,pistons,carb etc do you guys reccomend.Im open to using the 352 parts if they will make a performance difference.mike |
| | | RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 11/23/2005
I,d save the c8ae h heads for a later project if the 390 is a 4v i,d use the intake and heads or use the 352 heads and intake if not a 4v engin i,d install the 4v tipe pistons 390,s realy wake up with the higher compresson on a cam i,d use a comp cams 365h with the springs to mach,and one pice valve retainers and crome molly pushrods on the heads i,d at least have hardend exaust seats instaled the fe exaust seats are a weak spot on the heads and nead upgraded. a melling vh oil pump and deap pan |
| | | RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 11/23/2005
OOPS a comp 265h cam..........i dont think thay make a 365h if thay did it would be a biggie....... |
| | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- walt, 11/23/2005
yep i would sat that it would be a slightly tall cam giacamo,just a laugh |
| 428 (462) Stroker Buildup Advice -- Drew, 11/22/2005
I am looking to build up a 428 CJ. My goals are 550+ Hp, 550+ Tq. The car will be a 67 Mustang Fastback with a manual transmission. I'd like it for street/strip. Essentially running 11's/10's in the fat lady. So, I would appreciate any ideas to get to these numbers on a realistic budget (I am a semi-poor, starving college student after all!).
* Block:428 CJ Block
* Crank: Cast crank, Scat, 4.25 stroke, 4.16 bore -> CID now 462.1
* Rods: Forged Manley Rods
* Pistons: Forged Ross, 11.0:1 compression ratio
* Heads: Edelbrock Aluminum RPM Performer Heads
* Cam: Solid Roller Cam, 262 duration @ 0.5, 0.674" lift, 110 degree lobe separation, 106 degree centerline
* Intake: Edelbrock Single Plane Victor
* Carb: Holley Dominator 850
* Exhaust: Straight pipes, 3"
Thanks in advance! Any other advice/suggestions is greatly appreacited. |
| | RE: 428 (462) Stroker Buildup Advice -- Norm, 11/25/2005
You will need to improve headflow, thats the limiting factor , have the heads ported / flowchecked by a big name head shop. I would step the cam down a little , something between 246 and 256 degrees duration , same Lobe Separation install on 110 CL. Don't know but you may be better off at 448 cu inchs (4.125 Stroker). Intake , might be better off with Edelbrock RPM or Blue Thunder , but you can experiment with that , 830 CFM race prepped carb. |
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