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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26217&Reply=26217><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>67 Shelby Fan Question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Kenn, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Did the 67 GT500 have a clutch fan or just the fan, this is a non ac car, i know the fan part number is C6OE-F and is 18 1/2" diam and 7 blades, but i can find no info on a clutch </blockquote> 67 Shelby Fan Question -- Kenn, 11/21/2005
Did the 67 GT500 have a clutch fan or just the fan, this is a non ac car, i know the fan part number is C6OE-F and is 18 1/2" diam and 7 blades, but i can find no info on a clutch
 Every (basically) original car I've seen had a clutch-type fan. [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/21/2005
n/m
 Shelby clutch was unique, but you can use the '67 390 part. [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/21/2005
n/m
 Identified by C7ZX stamped on the -- Tim, 11/23/2005
hub. Hard to find new but used can be rebuilt.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26205&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill Feulner, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1967 Mustang project w/390 AT, A/C, and P/S.  I should say, it originally came with these options.  Most of the pieces are missing.<br><br>The trouble (at the moment) is that I'm replacing the small block radiator with the correct item and putting back the lower saddle brackets.  With the brackets bolted in the radiator indents that accomodate the saddle brackets are about two inches (one inch on each side) too far apart to line up with the brackets.<br><br>I've checked the radiator and bracket applications and they are correct.  The applications for 67 and 68 seem pretty universal.  What am I missing?<br><br>I've gotten some very helpful info in the past from reading the postings on this forum.  Thanks.  If anyone can help with this, please let me know. </blockquote> Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390 -- Bill Feulner, 11/20/2005
I have a 1967 Mustang project w/390 AT, A/C, and P/S. I should say, it originally came with these options. Most of the pieces are missing.

The trouble (at the moment) is that I'm replacing the small block radiator with the correct item and putting back the lower saddle brackets. With the brackets bolted in the radiator indents that accomodate the saddle brackets are about two inches (one inch on each side) too far apart to line up with the brackets.

I've checked the radiator and bracket applications and they are correct. The applications for 67 and 68 seem pretty universal. What am I missing?

I've gotten some very helpful info in the past from reading the postings on this forum. Thanks. If anyone can help with this, please let me know.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26213&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>ps the the radiator core support has  a larger opening than the small block,i replacec a few of them,i think the 69/70 351 used the larger opening also </blockquote> RE: Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390 -- walt, 11/20/2005
ps the the radiator core support has a larger opening than the small block,i replacec a few of them,i think the 69/70 351 used the larger opening also
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26214&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill Feulner, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for the reply.  The car has had some front end body work done to it.  I looked up the core support part numbers and the numbers are the same for both the big and small block.  But looking at the core support, the opening is not quite big enough for the radiator.  If the core support is correct it seems a poor design.<br><br>Another possibility I'm wondering about is that the mfg date on the car is 9/66.  Could I have some 1966 parts on this?<br><br>The distance between the lower support bracket holes is 14 3/4".  I should check another mustang, big and small block and see if that is correct. </blockquote> RE: Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390 -- Bill Feulner, 11/20/2005
Thanks for the reply. The car has had some front end body work done to it. I looked up the core support part numbers and the numbers are the same for both the big and small block. But looking at the core support, the opening is not quite big enough for the radiator. If the core support is correct it seems a poor design.

Another possibility I'm wondering about is that the mfg date on the car is 9/66. Could I have some 1966 parts on this?

The distance between the lower support bracket holes is 14 3/4". I should check another mustang, big and small block and see if that is correct.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26218&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill F., <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Actually the distance between the mounting holes for the saddle brackets is 15 3/4". </blockquote> RE: Radiator Mounting 67 Mustang 390 -- Bill F., 11/21/2005
Actually the distance between the mounting holes for the saddle brackets is 15 3/4".
 Here's the problem -- Royce P, 11/21/2005
I am guessing you bought a 24" clamp in radiator and the brackets for a '67 radiator?

The problem is that the '67 big block cars used a 22" radiator. The '68 cars used a 24" radiator and all the reproductions are 24" wide too. You need '68 lower mounts to use one of the reproduction radiators.

As you noted the opening in the 1967 core support is too narrow for the 24" wide radiator. You can cut the opening wider to make use of the extra cooling capacity. Measure the opening on a '68 Mustang to see the difference.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26221&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Are you using OEM '67 lower brackets & OEM '67 radiator? [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Are you using OEM '67 lower brackets & OEM '67 radiator? [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/21/2005
n/m
 RE: Are you using OEM '67 lower brackets & OEM '67 radiator? [n/m] -- walt, 11/21/2005
i recalled that we wre using the later model radiators,and we did do some modifactions to fit them,and it was the 68 core supports that we were using,cougar and mustang application,i wreched on the drive line the other guy did the body and other stuff,and i didn't see all,but it was mentioned about the size'sand location of the hose connections between the big blocks and different small blocks,i didn't measure them,we would junk yard shop,get the best app we could,find a shelby,boss or cj in the bone yard,take what we thought would work,or modify,back on the street,asap
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26222&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Because later (1968-1970) parts have different dimensions. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Because later (1968-1970) parts have different dimensions. [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/21/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26225&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>That's the problem.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill F., <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have the 24" radiator with 67 saddle brackets.  The restoration guide and suppliers I've been using show the same radiator (8005) and front support (16138) for 67 and 68.  (But I figured you guys would know the real story.)  One supplier does show different saddle brackets for 68.   I think I'll try to find a 22" radiator to make it right.  Is the 24" radiator a worthwhile upgrade from the 22" even though it would be incorrect?  Thanks much. </blockquote> That's the problem. -- Bill F., 11/21/2005
I have the 24" radiator with 67 saddle brackets. The restoration guide and suppliers I've been using show the same radiator (8005) and front support (16138) for 67 and 68. (But I figured you guys would know the real story.) One supplier does show different saddle brackets for 68. I think I'll try to find a 22" radiator to make it right. Is the 24" radiator a worthwhile upgrade from the 22" even though it would be incorrect? Thanks much.
 The 24" is needed -- Royce P, 11/21/2005
That's why Ford went to it in '68. The 22" is not reproduced and neither is the fan shroud. Originals are pricey.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26233&Reply=26205><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Because later (1968-1970) parts have different dimensions. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill F., <i>11/22/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'll stick with the 24" radiator and use 68 lower saddle brackets.  Thanks very much for all the info. </blockquote> RE: Because later (1968-1970) parts have different dimensions. [n/m] -- Bill F., 11/22/2005
I'll stick with the 24" radiator and use 68 lower saddle brackets. Thanks very much for all the info.
 Ok - but I have a '67 rad., in case you change your mind. [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/27/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26200&Reply=26200><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>rear main seals</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>big tex, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>any advice on best way to install rear main seal on 390 fe. done it twice and still leakin. </blockquote> rear main seals -- big tex, 11/20/2005
any advice on best way to install rear main seal on 390 fe. done it twice and still leakin.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26199&Reply=26199><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Fe gurus' need advise</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>GTJOE, <i>11/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Fe guru advise needed! have a 65 merc super 4v 390 going into a 67 ranchero. Already did the front end disc thing (granada). Trannys in the shop (c-6). Have some bucks comming in (a little). Pistons, block & rods are super clean (little ol lady car, really!). Doing stock on the rings, rods & mains. Cloyes true roller, hv oil pump, mallery dist,coil & wires. Now for the choices. Orginal heads c4a-e or c8ae-h that i have and are fresh? headers to fit the head (hear you have to be careful to get the right ones). Rhodes lifters? what cam ? looking for solid mid-range performanes (figure the cars light enough bottom end ain't gonna be a problem). Have two different intakes 1) edelbrock street master 390 single plane. 2) holly street dominator single plane? what carb? ain't looking for gas milage. Really could use your help guys, so if you could give me some advise here might save me a few bucks on my 'poor boy' build. Thanks joe.  </blockquote> Fe gurus' need advise -- GTJOE, 11/19/2005
Fe guru advise needed! have a 65 merc super 4v 390 going into a 67 ranchero. Already did the front end disc thing (granada). Trannys in the shop (c-6). Have some bucks comming in (a little). Pistons, block & rods are super clean (little ol lady car, really!). Doing stock on the rings, rods & mains. Cloyes true roller, hv oil pump, mallery dist,coil & wires. Now for the choices. Orginal heads c4a-e or c8ae-h that i have and are fresh? headers to fit the head (hear you have to be careful to get the right ones). Rhodes lifters? what cam ? looking for solid mid-range performanes (figure the cars light enough bottom end ain't gonna be a problem). Have two different intakes 1) edelbrock street master 390 single plane. 2) holly street dominator single plane? what carb? ain't looking for gas milage. Really could use your help guys, so if you could give me some advise here might save me a few bucks on my 'poor boy' build. Thanks joe.
 You heard right about the (in)famous header 'misfit' problem. See... -- Mr F, 11/20/2005
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=21148&Reply=21113
 RE: Fe gurus' need advise -- walt, 11/20/2005
if i recall correctly,after 65 the head ports were dropped 1/2 inch on all bb except the 427,428 cj,but the bolt holes matched,not the port location,i found this out when i put 428 cj exhaus manifolds on a 67 390 mustang,disaster followed,back to headers and the motor came back to life,match your port locations to the manifold/headers,why don't they make a header that covers both locations,the early ones did,i e my 66 fairlane with a 427 tunnel port(transplant)made by doug thorley,and they criss crossed oil pan twice,they were supposdely (tuned) to firing order,and that you could remove one tube to access the starter,try that with heddmans on a big block,not familiar with the other vendors,maybe some good stuff out there,check before you buy
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26230&Reply=26199><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Fe gurus' need advise</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>ps i heard horror stories about the mallory distribtor,wrenching the shaft pins,don't have a mallory,but other ones in the forum can tell you better,they had some experience with them,was blamed on the oil pumps,hv,or hp don't know,i run hv pumps with stock mdified distribtors,no problems,as a mater of fact my dist,and oil pump are over 35 yrs old now </blockquote> RE: Fe gurus' need advise -- walt, 11/21/2005
ps i heard horror stories about the mallory distribtor,wrenching the shaft pins,don't have a mallory,but other ones in the forum can tell you better,they had some experience with them,was blamed on the oil pumps,hv,or hp don't know,i run hv pumps with stock mdified distribtors,no problems,as a mater of fact my dist,and oil pump are over 35 yrs old now
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26231&Reply=26199><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Fe gurus' need advise</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>GTJOE, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey Walt, whats this about the pin on the mallorys, ain't herd about this. Can the pin be changed out or ? Going hv on the oil. Got a line on the shorty tri-ys' guys THANKS YOU sure it save me at least some money and un-told headaches, skinned knuckles, & cussin! any thoughts on the cam? </blockquote> RE: Fe gurus' need advise -- GTJOE, 11/21/2005
Hey Walt, whats this about the pin on the mallorys, ain't herd about this. Can the pin be changed out or ? Going hv on the oil. Got a line on the shorty tri-ys' guys THANKS YOU sure it save me at least some money and un-told headaches, skinned knuckles, & cussin! any thoughts on the cam?
 RE: Fe gurus' need advise -- walt, 11/23/2005
from what i hear mallory is blaming the oil pumps for the dist failure,rollpin failure,because of the high volume.any how see if i'm guessing right,the stock 289/302 oil pump impellers smeem to be the same thickness as the hv big block,didn't measure them yet,but i did not mention any thing about the size of the oil pump drives,dif category
 RE: Fe gurus' need advise -- walt, 11/23/2005
well chice is hydralic flat or roller,solid flat or roller,what you want to do with it,street strip,both,lots of comprimizes between fore metioned usesand how much bucks you got,i preffer the split timed,lift cams.more on the exhaust side,lift,duration,and i run a more radical cam on the small heads,the smaller ports,valves,does good job of covering the cam,but you still sound heallthy,and it still can pull a good bottom end,top end suffers though,but you don't need it in the street any more,track maybe,when you got to push horses at the top end,larger ports,valves are in order,and i feel the big block ford likes more timming,lift on the exhaust,and the smaller numbers on the intake keeps the bottom end more in order
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26196&Reply=26196><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>roller rockers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>rarefords, <i>11/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Which roller rockers would you guys reccomend for my 390?  The new ones from Crane, Comp, Erson, etc.  I am doing the typical build up with the Ed heads, etc.  Any ideas welcome!  Thanks!  Harold </blockquote> roller rockers -- rarefords, 11/19/2005
Which roller rockers would you guys reccomend for my 390? The new ones from Crane, Comp, Erson, etc. I am doing the typical build up with the Ed heads, etc. Any ideas welcome! Thanks! Harold
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26184&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jonnie, <i>11/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Will 351 4v Cleveland head's work on a 2v cleveland motor ? or should i worry about valve clearance on the cylinders  </blockquote> 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- jonnie, 11/18/2005
Will 351 4v Cleveland head's work on a 2v cleveland motor ? or should i worry about valve clearance on the cylinders
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26186&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>David, <i>11/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>they should its the same block just different heads and intake  </blockquote> RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- David, 11/18/2005
they should its the same block just different heads and intake
 RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- JOE, 11/19/2005
use to be 2v heads were the set up for the street.....haven't seen much about c-motors so don't know if the thinking is still the same.
 RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- R. Hunt, 11/19/2005
They will work.

All of the 351 Cleveland blocks have a valve relief in the cylinder walls at the top for the larger intake valves. This is good for all stock valve sizes even for the 4V heads.

When you remove the heads look at the tops of the pistons. There will be two valve reliefs in each piston if they are stock. If you see only one in each piston then they are aftermarket.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26198&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>GTJOE, <i>11/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Played with the 4v cleaveland stuff a few years back and hated the low end stall/lag with the 4v heads and lumpy cam. Top end was great!.  </blockquote> RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- GTJOE, 11/19/2005
Played with the 4v cleaveland stuff a few years back and hated the low end stall/lag with the 4v heads and lumpy cam. Top end was great!.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26204&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>That's why Ford revised the 4v heads (smaller valves), in '73. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> That's why Ford revised the 4v heads (smaller valves), in '73. [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/20/2005
n/m
 RE: That's why Ford revised the 4v heads (smaller valves), in '73. [n/m] -- walt, 11/20/2005
same reason why ford dropped the the 69 boss 302 size of 2.25 to 70 boss size 0f 2.19,and some racers were filling the ports with some epoxie stuff for better tourque values,and this is why the 351/400 m head is hot,plus the later ones had hardend seats,saved a lot of dollars in machine work,and the 2v ports were sufficient,for street and racing use,but i always wondered about the truck applications,ps,with that open chamber head,you can bump up the timing,with good fuel and no spark rattle,oh yes they done make special gaskets to put m heads on windsor blocks.only drill a few holes
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26207&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rons66GT, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi jonnie,<br> As the others have said the 4V heads will work on any block. However if what you're ultimately looking for is a 4V carb on your engine you can put the 4V intake on the 2V heads. Just cut the gasket section off the pan under the intake, reuse the rest of the pan with Boss 302 intake gaskets. Yes, it's a port mismatch but it'll work just fine. A trick I read in a Ford publication back to the 70's. I tried it with a 485cfm Holley 4V and a stock 4V intake and as I said it worked just fine and ran pretty well too. A cheap way to add a 4V. There is also a company that made an 4V aluminum intake for the 2V heads however I forget the manufacturer.<br> Ron </blockquote> RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- Rons66GT, 11/20/2005
Hi jonnie,
As the others have said the 4V heads will work on any block. However if what you're ultimately looking for is a 4V carb on your engine you can put the 4V intake on the 2V heads. Just cut the gasket section off the pan under the intake, reuse the rest of the pan with Boss 302 intake gaskets. Yes, it's a port mismatch but it'll work just fine. A trick I read in a Ford publication back to the 70's. I tried it with a 485cfm Holley 4V and a stock 4V intake and as I said it worked just fine and ran pretty well too. A cheap way to add a 4V. There is also a company that made an 4V aluminum intake for the 2V heads however I forget the manufacturer.
Ron
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26209&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>eldebrock makes  the manifolds,2v ports,4v carb,but i dont't know of the 351 w appicatins,i think i seen them,memory failurei got a couple boss 302 manifolds,but i'm saving them for special reasons,it would be nice if i could find the smaller 2v port mainfold for the 302,w351 w,put together a 351 w in 70,that would make big blocks think,hipo timing in the dist,c7fe cam,ported exhaust,4 speed.410 gears,running the junk windsor head,low 13,s high 12,s depending on who drove the cougar(68) </blockquote> RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- walt, 11/20/2005
eldebrock makes the manifolds,2v ports,4v carb,but i dont't know of the 351 w appicatins,i think i seen them,memory failurei got a couple boss 302 manifolds,but i'm saving them for special reasons,it would be nice if i could find the smaller 2v port mainfold for the 302,w351 w,put together a 351 w in 70,that would make big blocks think,hipo timing in the dist,c7fe cam,ported exhaust,4 speed.410 gears,running the junk windsor head,low 13,s high 12,s depending on who drove the cougar(68)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26210&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>what i was driving at,lost my train of thought,want to put 351 m heads on a 351 w,manifold appicatoins,vendors,this friend of mine wants to pull his boss 302 engine(all original)drop in a 351 w with clevland heads,to match his headers,and bell housing,but keep the original power plant intact,intake a problem?,or do i tell him foget it </blockquote> RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- walt, 11/20/2005
what i was driving at,lost my train of thought,want to put 351 m heads on a 351 w,manifold appicatoins,vendors,this friend of mine wants to pull his boss 302 engine(all original)drop in a 351 w with clevland heads,to match his headers,and bell housing,but keep the original power plant intact,intake a problem?,or do i tell him foget it
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26216&Reply=26184><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>JOE, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Seems like alot of work for nothing....years ago someone sold port restrictors (for lack of a better name) which in effect made the 4-v heads more street friendly.... </blockquote> RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- JOE, 11/21/2005
Seems like alot of work for nothing....years ago someone sold port restrictors (for lack of a better name) which in effect made the 4-v heads more street friendly....
 RE: 4v heads on a 2v 351 cleveland -- Rons66GT, 11/21/2005
Oh it wasn't for nothing Joe. The car ran much much better. Quicker by over a second in the quarter mile and all for 15 bucks (for the used stock intake) plus a 4V carb you'd have to buy anyway. Quite a perfomance bargin.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26182&Reply=26182><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Numbers Matching</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tina Good, <i>11/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am having the engine rebuilt from my 67 fastback.  It's a 390 big block, but not sure how to tell that the numbers stamped on the block and heads etc are the correct ones for my particular serial number.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.  Tina </blockquote> Numbers Matching -- Tina Good, 11/18/2005
I am having the engine rebuilt from my 67 fastback. It's a 390 big block, but not sure how to tell that the numbers stamped on the block and heads etc are the correct ones for my particular serial number. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tina
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26183&Reply=26182><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Numbers Matching</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>11/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Find every number on the block and heads. Post them here. We will tell you if they are reasonable for your car.<br><br>We also would need to know the VIN and scheduled build date for your car. Being a 1967 there would not be a VIN on the engine, only casting numbers and date codes. Because there are so many variables it is far easier for you to supply the numbers so that someone here can decode them for you than it would be to list every possible variable and then try and explain them to you.<br><br>Royce  </blockquote> RE: Numbers Matching -- Royce P, 11/18/2005
Find every number on the block and heads. Post them here. We will tell you if they are reasonable for your car.

We also would need to know the VIN and scheduled build date for your car. Being a 1967 there would not be a VIN on the engine, only casting numbers and date codes. Because there are so many variables it is far easier for you to supply the numbers so that someone here can decode them for you than it would be to list every possible variable and then try and explain them to you.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26187&Reply=26182><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Royce:  Didn't Ford stamp an . . .</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Orin, <i>11/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote> . . . assembly date on the BB like they did on the smallblocks?<br>  On SBs that date is usually lost when they mill the deck during a rebuild, but for matching numbers cars it is a good indicator of its provenance. </blockquote> Royce: Didn't Ford stamp an . . . -- Orin, 11/18/2005
. . . assembly date on the BB like they did on the smallblocks?
On SBs that date is usually lost when they mill the deck during a rebuild, but for matching numbers cars it is a good indicator of its provenance.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26267&Reply=26182><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Royce:  Didn't Ford stamp an . . .</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim, <i>11/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>For the block, there is a casting code. I will try to find where it is.  You can get a good idea of originality by looking at the parts themselves. Check the code on the heads. An example whould be C6AE-U for 66 heads C7AE-U for 67, etc. That nomenclature follows nearly all over the engine.  </blockquote> RE: Royce: Didn't Ford stamp an . . . -- Tim, 11/26/2005
For the block, there is a casting code. I will try to find where it is. You can get a good idea of originality by looking at the parts themselves. Check the code on the heads. An example whould be C6AE-U for 66 heads C7AE-U for 67, etc. That nomenclature follows nearly all over the engine.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26273&Reply=26182><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>No such casting as C7AE-U</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>11/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Also, the assembly date stamps are interesting but easily faked and best ignored.<br><br>Date codes are much more telling. The block has one next to the oil filter mounting pad. The heads have date codes under the valve covers.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> No such casting as C7AE-U -- Royce P, 11/26/2005
Also, the assembly date stamps are interesting but easily faked and best ignored.

Date codes are much more telling. The block has one next to the oil filter mounting pad. The heads have date codes under the valve covers.

Royce
 RE: No such casting as C7AE-U -- Tim, 11/26/2005
My bad. Fat fingered C7AE-A
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26265&Reply=26182><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Numbers Matching</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken P, <i>11/25/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have the same question as Tina but the engine is not out of the car.  Can you please tell me where to look for these on the engine?<br>Thanks. </blockquote> RE: Numbers Matching -- Ken P, 11/25/2005
I have the same question as Tina but the engine is not out of the car. Can you please tell me where to look for these on the engine?
Thanks.
 RE: Numbers Matching -- Royce P, 11/26/2005
Head casting numbers are between the spark plugs in the center of the head. Block casting numbers are on the passenger side of the block. Date codes see the above post.
 streetmaster intake -- David, 11/18/2005
how much could I get for a streetmaster intake for a 351W
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26178&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>11/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hello I purchased a 1967 mustang with the original bigblock 390. I plan on rebuilding it. Any good books that show you step by step this will be my first rebuild of a big block.Any tricks or special notes that any of you know would be greatly appreciated. I last built an engine 18 years ago so this will be a new experience all over again.Any and all comments welcome. I only plan on rebuilding it to stock. I'm not looking at porting and polishing heads are going a big over bore on the block. however I do want it reliable and to not overheat. Thanks Mike </blockquote> 390 rebuild -- Mike, 11/17/2005
Hello I purchased a 1967 mustang with the original bigblock 390. I plan on rebuilding it. Any good books that show you step by step this will be my first rebuild of a big block.Any tricks or special notes that any of you know would be greatly appreciated. I last built an engine 18 years ago so this will be a new experience all over again.Any and all comments welcome. I only plan on rebuilding it to stock. I'm not looking at porting and polishing heads are going a big over bore on the block. however I do want it reliable and to not overheat. Thanks Mike
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26179&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>A must have book</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>11/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Block-Ford-Mustang-Torino-Cyclone-GT-Boss-rebuild_W0QQitemZ8014967415QQcategoryZ34220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Block-Ford-Mustang-Torino-Cyclone-GT-Boss-rebuild_W0QQitemZ8014967415QQcategoryZ34220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem</a> </blockquote> A must have book -- raycfe, 11/17/2005
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Block-Ford-Mustang-Torino-Cyclone-GT-Boss-rebuild_W0QQitemZ8014967415QQcategoryZ34220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 RE: A must have book -- Mike, 11/17/2005
Thanks I will buy it.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26185&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>EDzierzek, <i>11/18/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I think that it is REALLY great that you found a 1967 with a big block in it. I am in the process of installing an   "s" code 390 in my '68 fastback small block -   "302" -  shelby clone. The only real advice I can tell you is that you CANNOT  beat a man at his OWN TRADE. I would have it rebuilt by a very reputable machine shop. You get the glory of pulling it out and re- installing it.  They are working on your re-build while You are at your work doing what you do to make a living.  IT will be back on the road alot quicker too. I hope I helped you out a little.   ED </blockquote> RE: 390 rebuild -- EDzierzek, 11/18/2005
I think that it is REALLY great that you found a 1967 with a big block in it. I am in the process of installing an "s" code 390 in my '68 fastback small block - "302" - shelby clone. The only real advice I can tell you is that you CANNOT beat a man at his OWN TRADE. I would have it rebuilt by a very reputable machine shop. You get the glory of pulling it out and re- installing it. They are working on your re-build while You are at your work doing what you do to make a living. IT will be back on the road alot quicker too. I hope I helped you out a little. ED
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26192&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>11/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks, I have been considering that, I just have'nt found a reputable engine rebuilder My concern is that they dont try to do a switch on me. Years ago I had a 69 with a 428 i took it to what i thought was a reputable guy in town. He said it wasnt worth rebuilding to much scoring in the cylinders. A bore wouldnt take out the gouges in the walls. So he offered me a 390 instead. I agreed. Too young. Too dumb. Three months later he has a 428 cj motor in his 70 Mach1. Funny thing is he mentioned to me that he couldnt find one that was worth rebuilding.When I saw him he even stated that it was my old motor.He stated that he went ahead and bored the cylinders out .040 and the cylinders were ok enough to rebuild. So he did. I was pissed and wanted it back and he said he had to much other invested in it, as far as heads and performance cranks and cams. I had it out with him. Basically theft. So anyways after that incident I rebuilt all my own motors only small blocks.I'm older and wiser now I dont think it is any different from when I rebuilt these motors years ago.However as you said let the professional do it, because this is what he does every day. I'm just apprehensive. If anyone knows of a quality builder in Inland empire of Southern California let me know. </blockquote> RE: 390 rebuild -- Mike, 11/19/2005
Thanks, I have been considering that, I just have'nt found a reputable engine rebuilder My concern is that they dont try to do a switch on me. Years ago I had a 69 with a 428 i took it to what i thought was a reputable guy in town. He said it wasnt worth rebuilding to much scoring in the cylinders. A bore wouldnt take out the gouges in the walls. So he offered me a 390 instead. I agreed. Too young. Too dumb. Three months later he has a 428 cj motor in his 70 Mach1. Funny thing is he mentioned to me that he couldnt find one that was worth rebuilding.When I saw him he even stated that it was my old motor.He stated that he went ahead and bored the cylinders out .040 and the cylinders were ok enough to rebuild. So he did. I was pissed and wanted it back and he said he had to much other invested in it, as far as heads and performance cranks and cams. I had it out with him. Basically theft. So anyways after that incident I rebuilt all my own motors only small blocks.I'm older and wiser now I dont think it is any different from when I rebuilt these motors years ago.However as you said let the professional do it, because this is what he does every day. I'm just apprehensive. If anyone knows of a quality builder in Inland empire of Southern California let me know.
 RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 11/19/2005
a 428 block the shop had should of tested the waters by trying to bore it to see how much it would take to clean up.and go from thear with the custermer.
 RE: 390 rebuild -- walt, 11/24/2005
that i why i secretly mark all my blocks,and i want my old one back,and i do have a witness that can veryfy my marks,just for that purpose,sorry to hear that
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26212&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>11/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>iwould pay attention to the exhaust valves,put in hardened seats,and stainless steel valves,one or the other or both,i have went thru 4 sets of heads,valve seat recession,today's fuel burns up old valve technoligy </blockquote> RE: 390 rebuild -- walt, 11/20/2005
iwould pay attention to the exhaust valves,put in hardened seats,and stainless steel valves,one or the other or both,i have went thru 4 sets of heads,valve seat recession,today's fuel burns up old valve technoligy
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26226&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>walt,s right on the money. I wount even bild a fe with out hardend exaust seats instaled and if thay install new gides make shure thay dont have the gide hanging out in the port wear the exaust heat will make it heatup and start making the valve guld to the gide.i,v sean more fe heads screwed up from crapy work.so make shure you have the heads doun by somone that knows how to do them right..... </blockquote> RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 11/21/2005
walt,s right on the money. I wount even bild a fe with out hardend exaust seats instaled and if thay install new gides make shure thay dont have the gide hanging out in the port wear the exaust heat will make it heatup and start making the valve guld to the gide.i,v sean more fe heads screwed up from crapy work.so make shure you have the heads doun by somone that knows how to do them right.....
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26232&Reply=26178><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>11/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Guys let the games begin. Any more info greatly appreciated. This is exactly why I went looking for help on this forum. You have been there and done that. I just want to be right first time. Anybody else thats wants to chime in Please do. I'm soaking in all this info.  </blockquote> RE: 390 rebuild -- Mike, 11/21/2005
Thanks Guys let the games begin. Any more info greatly appreciated. This is exactly why I went looking for help on this forum. You have been there and done that. I just want to be right first time. Anybody else thats wants to chime in Please do. I'm soaking in all this info.
 RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 11/22/2005
mike on the block i like to tap out all the oil galery holes and install allen plugs in them if you ever get one of thouse littel pushin plugs and thay come out you,l wish you would of did this littel mod.i also run the 4v tipe pistons feds cast, not the 2v tipe, the 4v tipe will give around 10/10,5 compression . i,d also use a comp cam 265h and all the rest of the valve train that maches it and also one pice spring retainers,if you ever sean a two pice retiner fail you,d think a one pice retainer is worth the money.i also use arp rod bolts i also use crome molly pushrods some times the stock ones get bent on a saterday night,i also use the melling hv oil pump,[ not the hp pump ]with good resoults even with a stock pan, but if your going to race it or run it hard alot get a deaper pan,with this combo of parts i,v got 15 390s on the streat some with over 100000miles on them runing i can go on and on but this combo seams to work good with stock exaust and intake
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26175&Reply=26175><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Possiable 427 found. Help!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rick, <i>11/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have found a guy who has a F150 that he put a 427 out of an old car his mother said, 65 or 66 ford. I am going to look at it tommorrow. What should I look for? I know to look for the cross bolt mains, but what else? She is asking $800 for the truck. It was wrecked recently. She stated that her son had just had $1600.00 worth of work done on the engine at a local machine shop. She did say it had a Holley and aluminum intake. Thats all she knew. Information on identifying it and its value would be appreciated. </blockquote> Possiable 427 found. Help! -- Rick, 11/17/2005
I have found a guy who has a F150 that he put a 427 out of an old car his mother said, 65 or 66 ford. I am going to look at it tommorrow. What should I look for? I know to look for the cross bolt mains, but what else? She is asking $800 for the truck. It was wrecked recently. She stated that her son had just had $1600.00 worth of work done on the engine at a local machine shop. She did say it had a Holley and aluminum intake. Thats all she knew. Information on identifying it and its value would be appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26176&Reply=26175><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Possiable 427 found. Help!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>11/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>post the head numbers to see if it even haz a set of decent heads on it. if no crose bolt mains, might be a home made 427, i,v bored that much befor to make a home made 427.i allways by cheap wen exploring unknow moters  </blockquote> RE: Possiable 427 found. Help! -- giacamo, 11/17/2005
post the head numbers to see if it even haz a set of decent heads on it. if no crose bolt mains, might be a home made 427, i,v bored that much befor to make a home made 427.i allways by cheap wen exploring unknow moters
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26177&Reply=26175><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Possiable 427 found. Help!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rick, <i>11/17/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>So check for the cross bolts first? Is there a place I can write down all of the numbers I need, so I will have them when I go there?<br>Thanks </blockquote> RE: Possiable 427 found. Help! -- Rick, 11/17/2005
So check for the cross bolts first? Is there a place I can write down all of the numbers I need, so I will have them when I go there?
Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26194&Reply=26175><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Possiable 427 found. Help!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>11/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>head numbers are near the sparkplugs,block numbers are mostly on the sides of the block and lots of times are only good for frigering out the year, the only way to make shure is to open it up and measur everything.  </blockquote> RE: Possiable 427 found. Help! -- giacamo, 11/19/2005
head numbers are near the sparkplugs,block numbers are mostly on the sides of the block and lots of times are only good for frigering out the year, the only way to make shure is to open it up and measur everything.
 RE: Possiable 427 found. Help! -- Dano, 11/19/2005
Check for three small screw-in plugs just above the main cap cross bolts on the oil filter side of the block. That would tell you that it is a side oiler 427.
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