How very odd. You say you checked the valve lash and it was OK? Sometimes, that's not easy with Hyd lifters. I suspect a head gasket cannot be installed wrong way around, but I'm not sure. Rear cylinders will run hot due to water circulation not being great towards the rear of the engine. But an air-lock can make it worse. Suggest you loosen heater hose on manifold and top up rad until water comes out of heater hose spigot. Also, check plugs. Purplish dots on plugs indicate over heating, possibly due to too lean a mixture. Could be the whole engine is running lean (or spark too far advanced), but only the rear cylinders show the heat due to the water not circulating as well back there. Will the engine idle normally? If you can't get a low idle, you may have a vacumn leak. If your PCV valve is on the passenger side vs the carb spacer, it may be leaning out the passenger side cylinders if it's not working properly. Once again, cylinders 1 and 2 may also be affected, but better water circulation keeps them from getting as hot as 3 and 4. My best guess is an air-lock. As above, purge the water system and make sure no air is in the cylinder head. try the engine again with the heater turned on and the rad cap lossened (or off) to make sure all air gets out of heads.

I just bought a 462 from a 67 Lincoln last Wednesday and it was $220.83 with tax but I get $45 back if I take them the old core. Hawkrod

This is right up Royce’s alley but I can help you with the date codes. The two dots under the first number in the date code means you’re in the 1970s so the first block is 1/21/70 and the second block is 6/30/69. What doesn’t seem normal about these blocks?

Found a nice set of "Patriot" 3.5 inch universal side pipes that would fit on Summits web site, but I was hoping for a 4 into 1 header/side pipe combo like some of the earlier vettes use.

It fits rather snugly into the drag link, doesn't it?. You need a mechanical tool, like a tie-rod remover tool, either the "pickle fork" or the screw press.

Absent the "tools" to get the job done, you may try threading the nut back on to the point where the nut is just above the stud threads, give the drag link where the stud goes through perpendicular a couple of very solid whacks on the side with a heavy hammer and then give the nut on the stud a couple of well-placed hits with the hammer. Most of the time, the whacks on the side of the drag link will deform the hole enough that you will loosen the grip on the stud. As long as you don't go nuts, you won't damage the drag link.

You should also give the drag link a couple of solid whacks even if using the tools. Makes it much easier to pop the stud out.

I am new to working on cars and appreciate you telling me. I didn't know that. What's the best way to get it off then if it's tapered ?

http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineFuelCarbp1.html

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damn it 1967 mustang gt convertible, 390 FE with about 450 ponies

cams and intakes so many to chouse from?I like comp cams for the fe,please any cam you chouse allways mach springs and dont skimp on the heads have a shop that knows what thear doing with the fe head i,v sean so much piss pore head work, that i have only person do my machine work outher than me.

Most NHRA roll bars are custom made to the car. Very few off the shelf roll bars will meet NHRA specs.

Hey russ. I have been looking for a roll cage for my 66 mustang, but I have been having problems. I finally e-mailed COMPETITION ENGINEERING (who makes tons of them). They don't make them for either of our cars, but they directed me to S&W Racecars, which have them for almost every muscle car produced.
http://www.swracecars.com/pdf/CATpg17.PDF
This company should help anybody looking for roll cages/bars/accessories.
hope this helps
Patrick

I would get a stock rebuilt distrubutor and drop in a Petronix unit to get rid of the breaker points. This can be combined with a MSD multispark box to add some spark on the spark plugs.

My experience is based on a MSD billet distributor that has no vacum advance and leads to overheating and a Duraspark distr from a 1976 Ford truck that has the wrong geometry for the vacum advance.