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 |  C7AE-A heads -- eddie mcmanus, 10/22/2005
I have a set of C7AE-A heads that have some pitting in two combustion chambers due to water sitting in them. I was wondering how severe the pitting would have to be to make them unusable. I have some GIF images for viewing if that would help somebody help make a determination. Thanks for listening, Ed |
|  | RE: C7AE-A heads -- giacamo, 10/25/2005
post the images lets tak a look? |
| |  | RE: C7AE-A heads -- GREG F, 11/27/2005
i would get those sonic tested at a local machine shop greg f |
| | Probably of no consequence. -- Gerry Proctor, 11/28/2005
There's a lot of meat in the casting. The pits would have to be pretty deep, like more than .050" to have any reason to do more thorough examinations.
You'll of course want to ensure that the corrosion hasn't affected the valve seats. Pitting there would be a issue.
But even if the heads are ruined, the C7AE-A head is so common that they're not hard to replace. |
| what does it mean ? -- Roland, 10/19/2005
Hi,
can anyone tell me the dimension F70x 14"
and F60x15" in millimeters ? One inch is 25,4 millimeters, but I don´t know what that F17 /F16 means. I need the diameter of such complete wheels.
Thanks in advance,
Roland
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| engine RPM -- Joe, 10/18/2005
Just wondering what a safe RPM limit would be about on my rebuilt 428. My engine guy put a crane cam ignition module in place of the points and set the rev limiter to 5800.
It's bored forty over, has a mild comp cam, edelbrock rmp heads and intake. Just wondering what other limits people are comfortable with. |
| | Sounds about right -- Scott Allard, 10/18/2005
That sounds about right. You might be able to get more but the torque is prolly falling off pretty badly. If you have headers more RPM might be useful. Also do you have some type of improvements to your rocker shafts? Either new/heavy duty, or with iron stands, or end stands, or studs. If your rocker shafts are stock that's probably about all you want to get up to regardless - SCott |
|  | RE: engine RPM -- russ, 10/23/2005
if you haven;t done the up grades to your bottom end, i;d keep it at 5500 maybe 5800 if you want to push it once in awhile |
| | RE: engine RPM -- GREG F, 10/23/2005
Go by your cam spec car it normialy gives you rpm range |
| Are all small-block ford starters the same? -- Steve, 10/18/2005
I am wondering if my 351W boat engine has a unique starter, or can I get one for a '93 T-Bird or something?
The so-called marine version was $179. |
|  | No, they are not all the same -- Hawkrod, 10/18/2005
There are a number of different issues but the most critical in this case is the marine starter is specifically designed for conditions. It is supposed to be low arcing to prevent igniting fumes in a closed hull as well as moisture resistant. There are also manual and automatic starters which have different depths as well as a few other insignificant variations. Hawkrod |
| | | RE: No, they are not all the same -- Royce P, 10/22/2005
Lots of different marine starters are made. They may or may not interchange with an automotive version but there are no interchange cross references that I know of.
You should look in you local yellow pages for a rebuilding service. I my town (Cincinnati) any starter can be rebuilt for around $40 and it is a 1 day turn time.
Royce |
| | | | RE: No, they are not all the same -- Ken Grau, 10/29/2005
Hi Royce.
Where are you getting your starters and Altermators rebuilt in Cincinnati?
Bills Battery?
I have the original starter from my Mach 1 428 SCJ that I want to get rebuilt !
Thanks,
Hope to get to NKY to see your cars soon!
p.s. Rick wants to sell a few of his if you have any interest.
email me some time! |
| | | | | RE: No, they are not all the same -- Royce P, 10/30/2005
Cincinnati Electric downtown. Been there since 1910. On Elm street. Say hi to Don Fitzgerald the owner for me.
I didn't know Rick was selling anything, I'll have to give him a call.
Royce |
| | | | | | RE: No, they are not all the same -- Ken Grau, 10/30/2005
Give me an email or your correct email address and I will give you some details on the items available.
If you plan on going out to his place for a visit, let me know and I will make it over to see you guys at Ricks.
I only live about 5 miles from Rick.
Thanks,
Ken |
| | | | | | | RE: No, they are not all the same -- Royce P, 10/31/2005
Ken,
roycegte(at) earthlink(dot)net
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| Holley Jets for 428 -- dave, 10/17/2005
I used the jet sizes suggested by Shoe,Royce etc all on the 600cfm 4150 carb on top of my 428 CJ. Put the car on the chassis dyno a month ago and the combo was good for 283 rwhp. I'm re-building the 735 I got off e-bay and when I took it apart the jets on the primary block are not the same size 66 on one side 71 on the other. The secondary block was the same with different jet sizes. The jets are diagonally oppossed, has anyone ever seen this? I have ported and polished heads a Crower power beast cam >514 lift, F-427 intake, MSD 6 ignition, FPA tri-y headers to 2 1/2 " inch exhaust, to a Tremec 600 5 speed and 3:25 gears. Based on this combo what jet sizes should be in there. I have re-built several Holleys including the one on there now which works great. I'm going to Englishtown this weekend for a rumble with some Mustang Guys and figure the 735 might give me a little bit more on the top end |
| Spark plugs for my 428? -- John, 10/16/2005
I have been using Champion RF9YC plugs in my 428. Engine is 9.5:1 CR, 4X2 Carbs, headers into dual side exhaust, and according to Crane's computer profiling, can put out 480 Hp (I dont' think so, but maybe...). Anyway, the plugs slowly took on a nice tan colour, but by 3500 miles started to misfire the odd time, although some serious acceleration would clear the plugs. Plugs now have a gray coating over the center insulator which I can pick off with a fingernail. Should I go a couple sizes colder? Maybe a RF7YC? Oh...I use 91 Octane pump gas.
Also, please no dumping on Champion...they have always worked fine for me. Besides..... for those of you who insist on AC Delco, the AC stands for Albert Champion. |
| | Colder plugs foul quicker. Go the other way. N/M -- Royce P, 10/16/2005
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| | | True, but.....? -- John, 10/16/2005
Going up in HP usually means colder plugs. The RF9YC is a standard plug. The fouling is not what I've seen before.....tisn't a rich mixture (carbon). Hopefully the gray isn't aluminum deposits which can happen when a plug is too hot.....anyway, I am close.....took a long time before this problem became bad. Problem is, I take my car for short drives. Takes about 5 miles before the engine oil is hot enough to have some fun. I suspect if I drove the car harder longer I would see different plug conditions....maybe worse, maybe better....but a clue anyway. Regardless, I was wondering what most of you used out there on FE's that were modified. |
| | | | Rf12yc -- Cobra428, 10/17/2005
I have a 428 with aluminum heads, 10:00 to 1 CR estimated 450 HP and have been using RF12YC with good luck. Recently changed to Autolites racing plugs in the same heat range (can't remember the number) and I really like them. |
| | | | | RE: Rf12yc -- John, 10/17/2005
Thanks...even though it makes sense to go to a hotter plug to avoid fouling, I was worried. Normally, one should go colder with a high performance engine. Colder won't damage an engine, too hot might. Think I'll try your suggestion (which matches Royce's advice)but keep a close eye on things for a while. TY.
LOL....or stay with what I have and drive the crap out of the car.....chuckle. |
| | | | | | Just wondering what type ignition you have. -- Royce P, 10/17/2005
If you don't have an MSD 6AL or better, get one. It will end plug problems permanently. You will go years between plugs needing any attention. You can trigger one with a points distributor. Points last virtually forever too in that case.
Royce |
| | | | | | | My Ignition -- John, 10/17/2005
Well......I am trying to keep the car looking "period", so no computer under the hood. I swapped out the dual points for a pertronix unit (which nobody can see) and it worked wonders. I have to admit, I had a nice tan colour prior to the pertronix going in, but this may have been co-incidence.....darned points constantly needed cleaning CUZ, I used a NOS Echlin 12VDC coil I had kicking around (no ballast resistor and NOT a performance coil). The major problem to me is this darned gray flawless coating on the plug tip ceramic cone. I've never seen this kind of deposit. I'm sure it's not piston aluminum cuz I had that problem once with an outboard motor and the aluminum was fused solid to the plug. In the FE case, I can easily pick it off with a fingernail.
Oh...just a footnote, I tried a Jacob's Ford Coil and the engine would barely run...maybe defective, but the Jacob's people were no help, so it was money down the drain to me. |
| | | | | | | | RE: My Ignition -- Royce P, 10/17/2005
I have MSD 6AL's on two of my cars hidden under the dash. That way I can remove the RPM chip when a car is in the paint and body shop for a 1500 RPM "valet mode" rev limiter. They have stock distributors - one is even using points while the other is using the Pertronix like you have.
The Pertronix performs better than a rotten, burned set of points but no beter than a brand new set of points. Get an MSD you will be amazed at how long you went without one and suffered the fouled plugs. It also dramatically improves cold start performance and idle quality.
Royce |
| | | | | | | | | Ah hah!...something unexpected -- John, 11/01/2005
Poor spark has gien me backfiring out of exhaust before, so I assumed....etc. BUT, new plugs had no effect, and my ignition, although not totally the best, is working fine. The backfiring was always out the drivers side. Inspection showed one of my header bolts missing. Darned "Never-Seize" works too well....LOL. My headers are 4 individual pipes per side, all slip fitting into a side exhaust collector, then through muffler and out. A loose or missing bolt will allow fresh air into exhaust, and hence my backfire on hard de-acceleration (foot off gas and clutch in). Soon as I find another exhaust bolt and try it, I'll post the result. |
| | | | | | | | | | Well....phooey! -- John, 11/03/2005
Replacing "two" missing header bolts and tightening the rest didn't do any good. Still a backfire in drier's side exhaust. Must check for carb mounting bolts being tight next I suppose. Somehow air is getting into exhaust and igniting fuel when I let off the gas. Doesn't happen after hard acceleration, just after short acceleration bursts. Ignition seems OK with all sparkplugs reading identical. Used to be when this happened, cleaning points fixed problem, but have Pertronix now and it has been fine for over a year. Doesn't happen on passenger's side. Passenger side is different in that the PCV valve is connected to that side. There is no anti-backfire valve on this engine. Might be getting air where header pipes slip fit into collector......oh phooey.....what a pain....LOL. |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: Ah hah!...something unexpected -- walt, 11/05/2005
may be a weak valve spring,bent valve,cam lobe wear?,if the ignition is good. |
| | | | | | | | | | | Royce is probably right -- John, 11/06/2005
Well.....the engine runs great (acceleration, cruising), and the plugs all look equal, so I am discounting engine damage for now. As I mentioned before, I used to have this backfiring out of exhaust when the ignition was weak (dirty points leading to misfire under overly rich condition when taking foot off of gas), but upon finding a header pipe loose on the side having the trouble, I figured that was it. Truth is, my ignition is barely adequate, but it does work. Prior to throwing money at it (MSD, etc.) I want to know where the problem is now. Once I find out my current weak link, then I can upgrade with....er......"dignity"....LOL. So, I suspect I am back to troubleshooting the ignition for now, and Royce is likely right. No doubt with a major ignition upgrade, I would have far fewer troubles. It seems like the slightest degredation of any ignition component, shows itself all too easily the way it is now.
ps: I did the midnight test to see if the wires were bad. The odd spark jumped from the coil wire to the coil + post, but very infrequently. Bears further investigation though as my exhaust "popping" is limited to one side. Perhaps an indication that the wires are passing their useful life. |
| | RE: Spark plugs for my 428? -- walt, 11/02/2005
i personlay don't like champs,i also thought that they were allison chalmer,chambers?any how i ran autolite,and later motor craft for years if you going to run the engine hard or sustainted high speed runs,cold plug is great,every once in a bit burst low speed cruising ,one step hotter range is ok,i had 2 sets of plugs for the track,my bf32 warmups,then my bf22,or 12s for racing,and they did load up very fast,i have now switched to the bosch platinums,and they work very good,i have them in my kids 4.6,5.0.400,m,and my 390,they seem not to load up as much as other plugs,and accells were out of the question,i didn't get 200 feet out of the gate and they were done,thought that we bent push rods or broke valve springs,put them old bf 32's back in ,busted the 1/4 in high ten's |
| Rocker Arm Drip Rails -- John C, 10/15/2005
On my 390 bebuild, I'm going from the cast heads with non-adjustable rockers to Edelbrock aluminum heads with new factory adjustable rocker arms. Question, Will I to add rocker arm drip rails? Thanks, John |
| | Best to use them if you can. -- Royce P, 10/15/2005
The drain holes in the ends of FE heads were never intended to handle all the oil drainage. Most of the oil mus spill into the area between the intake ports which is why Ford used the drip rails.
Royce |
| shock towers -- Henry, 10/13/2005
OK dumb question. Can I replace the shock towers on my 66 Mustang with ones from a 67 or 8, and have enough extra room for a 390 with stock type exhaust? |
| | RE: shock towers -- Dano, 10/15/2005
I wouldn't bother, especially if the factory towers are good. If I was in your shoes, I would just drop in a stroked Windsor motor. |
| | | RE: shock towers -- John C, 10/15/2005
Dano is not kidding about the Windsor engine. The big block sounds nice but they are a royal pain in the a--. Changing a set of spark plugs will make a Nun cuss. But you got to love em. |
| | | | RE: shock towers -- Henry, 10/16/2005
So you are saying there is only a minimal gain in clearance? But it could be done. There is a method to my madness here. |
| | | | | RE: shock towers -- John C, 10/16/2005
Henry, There's nothing like the big block but it's pretty tight around those shock towers. I have a 67 Mustang Fastback with the factory 390 big block. The shock towers are a huge problem. I buy a case of beer just prior to changing the spark plugs. In all honesty, it all comes down to patients. |
| | | | | | RE: shock towers -- Henry, 10/16/2005
Hi John I know you are right. But this wont be a daily driver, and it wont matter if I need to pull the motor out to work on it. I was 16 in 1969 and this is what I have wanted to do all along. |
| | | | | | | Are 67-68 shock towers smaller? -- Mark Viera, 10/17/2005
I do not believe that the 67-68 got the extra clearance for the big blocks with smaller shock towers. I believe that the whole engine bay the towers are mounted to is bigger so changing the towers would not help. If you need me to, I can measure the width of the engine bay at the shock towers on my 67 so you can compare. Chances are someone on this forum already know the dimensions.
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| | | | | | | | RE: Are 67-68 shock towers smaller? -- Henry, 10/17/2005
I have heard it is possible to put 67-8 towers in a 66 and have room for a FE. If so they must be smaller or farther apart. So far I am still guessing if its true. |
| 1963 galaxie trim -- steve, 10/13/2005
anyone know where I can get the stainless trim for a 63 galaxie with a vinyl top. (Not convert, it is a fastback. It was a small strip accross the rear of the roofline.
Help!
galaxie6305 |
| | | 63 & 64 are the same..n/m -- Lou, 10/14/2005
n/m |
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