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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25857&Reply=25857><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>pushrod oiling holes</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg Westphall, <i>09/27/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Currnetly I am running the factory style adjustable valve train with the solid (no hole down the center) ball and cup pushrods and a solid lifter camshaft in a 428CJ.  If I switch to the Erson roller rocker assemblies and a hydraulic lifter camshaft, would I also have to find ball and cup pushrods with the hole down the center? I am being told that since a hydraulic lifter valvtrain has no lash the pushrod oiling hole is required to provide proper lubrication to those mating surfaces.  Does anyone have any experience with this?<br>Thanks in advance,<br>Greg </blockquote> pushrod oiling holes -- Greg Westphall, 09/27/2005
Currnetly I am running the factory style adjustable valve train with the solid (no hole down the center) ball and cup pushrods and a solid lifter camshaft in a 428CJ. If I switch to the Erson roller rocker assemblies and a hydraulic lifter camshaft, would I also have to find ball and cup pushrods with the hole down the center? I am being told that since a hydraulic lifter valvtrain has no lash the pushrod oiling hole is required to provide proper lubrication to those mating surfaces. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks in advance,
Greg
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25859&Reply=25857><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>That's silly.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>09/27/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>To use the Erson rocker setup or any other adjustable rocker on an FE you will need ball and cup pushrods. There is no oiling hole. The rockers get the oil through the cylinder head passages in any case so what good would pushrod oil holes be?<br><br>There are some exotic rocker setups made by T & D that require pushrod oiling but that is not anything remotely like what you are planning.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> That's silly. -- Royce P, 09/27/2005
To use the Erson rocker setup or any other adjustable rocker on an FE you will need ball and cup pushrods. There is no oiling hole. The rockers get the oil through the cylinder head passages in any case so what good would pushrod oil holes be?

There are some exotic rocker setups made by T & D that require pushrod oiling but that is not anything remotely like what you are planning.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25866&Reply=25857><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: That's silly.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg Westphall, <i>09/28/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>T&D is exactly what the machine shop is suggesting.  They are suggesting using 460 style hydraulic lifters, ball-ball end hollow push rods and swapping out the Erson Adjusters with something from T&D that will accept the ball-ball push rods.  <br>I think this is overkill for a street camshaft and moderate springs.  The Standard Erson Set up with the standard bal-cup pushrods and standard FE style Hydraulic lifters should be just fine.  <br>thanks for the quick response and confirmation.<br>Greg  </blockquote> RE: That's silly. -- Greg Westphall, 09/28/2005
T&D is exactly what the machine shop is suggesting. They are suggesting using 460 style hydraulic lifters, ball-ball end hollow push rods and swapping out the Erson Adjusters with something from T&D that will accept the ball-ball push rods.
I think this is overkill for a street camshaft and moderate springs. The Standard Erson Set up with the standard bal-cup pushrods and standard FE style Hydraulic lifters should be just fine.
thanks for the quick response and confirmation.
Greg
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25898&Reply=25857><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: That's silly.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike Morris, <i>10/04/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Just curious, do you have the oil galleys on your engine for the hydraulic lifters or is that an original solid lifter engine? </blockquote> RE: That's silly. -- Mike Morris, 10/04/2005
Just curious, do you have the oil galleys on your engine for the hydraulic lifters or is that an original solid lifter engine?
 RE: That's silly. -- Greg Westphall, 10/05/2005
it is an original 428CJ. It has provisions for hydraulic lifters.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25851&Reply=25851><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Aftermarket Suspension Kits</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Craig, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>First let me say I can't believe what you can find on the internet. However I'm looking at altering my 67 s-code front suspension with either a Heidt kit or Total Control Products. If anyone has done this and has a opinion on what works and is better please let me know.<br>I've had this car since 77 and its been in storage since 85 do you think a supension kit will have a negative effect on the value. I've recently have seen cars with this done sell for huge money     Thanks in Advance </blockquote> Aftermarket Suspension Kits -- Craig, 09/26/2005
First let me say I can't believe what you can find on the internet. However I'm looking at altering my 67 s-code front suspension with either a Heidt kit or Total Control Products. If anyone has done this and has a opinion on what works and is better please let me know.
I've had this car since 77 and its been in storage since 85 do you think a supension kit will have a negative effect on the value. I've recently have seen cars with this done sell for huge money Thanks in Advance
 RE: You trying to make money or enjoy the car? -- Gerry Proctor, 09/27/2005
Absolutely original cars generally have more market value.

If you're just trying to sell the car, then leave it factory.

If you intend on keeping the car, then do whatever you want to with it that makes you happy.

The TCP kit is reversable so you wouldn't be affecting resale value. The Heidt's kit goes much farther as far as a modification and isn't reversable (at least, not easily) so resale value would depend on where you market the car. Of course, craftsmanship is paramount.

It seems you're more interested in what the car will sell for so just go ahead a put the car on the market as is.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25848&Reply=25848><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Replacing 289 with a 390 engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tom Louwsma, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1968 390 engine from a 68 Merc 2 dr fastback that I will be installing in my 68 Fastback. (It currently has a 289). Any info on where I can get the proper fit 390 headers for this application would help a bunch. Also my fastback is an automatic on the floor, but the Merc was a column shifter. Any ideas on how to link the C-6 to my factory floor shifter would also be appreciated. Maybe there is a cable or something universal I can use. Thanks, Tom </blockquote> Replacing 289 with a 390 engine -- Tom Louwsma, 09/26/2005
I have a 1968 390 engine from a 68 Merc 2 dr fastback that I will be installing in my 68 Fastback. (It currently has a 289). Any info on where I can get the proper fit 390 headers for this application would help a bunch. Also my fastback is an automatic on the floor, but the Merc was a column shifter. Any ideas on how to link the C-6 to my factory floor shifter would also be appreciated. Maybe there is a cable or something universal I can use. Thanks, Tom
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26562&Reply=25848><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>greg f, <i>01/05/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Headers can be purchased at jegs or summitt parts houses or crites performance on the c-6 you are using be sure to use a manual shift lever which is pointing up otherwise the lever will hit headers good luck greg f </blockquote> RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine -- greg f, 01/05/2006
Headers can be purchased at jegs or summitt parts houses or crites performance on the c-6 you are using be sure to use a manual shift lever which is pointing up otherwise the lever will hit headers good luck greg f
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26568&Reply=25848><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tom L, <i>01/06/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Greg, But I ended up buying a 302 crate motor. It's a 375 HP B&B roller engine which will be alot easier to install with about the same horsepower. In the long run even a little cheaper ...... Tom </blockquote> RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine -- Tom L, 01/06/2006
Thanks Greg, But I ended up buying a 302 crate motor. It's a 375 HP B&B roller engine which will be alot easier to install with about the same horsepower. In the long run even a little cheaper ...... Tom
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26572&Reply=25848><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>greg f, <i>01/06/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>great choice let us know what it turns the quarter mile in  </blockquote> RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine -- greg f, 01/06/2006
great choice let us know what it turns the quarter mile in
 RE: Replacing 289 with a 390 engine -- Tom L, 01/06/2006
It will be the end of next Summer before I'm done with the Fastback, but it should be a sweet ride when complete. Thanks again, Tom
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25841&Reply=25841><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 cobra jet head shims</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jim, <i>09/25/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I purchased a mustang with a 428 cj a few years ago.  The car runs very strong but the compression is higher than I am comfortable with for street use.  The heads were milled however I am not certain of the amount they were taken down.  Has anyone had any experience with the .0020 CJ head shims which I believe are offered by Felpro.  I thought this may be an option rather than finding a new set of heads.<br>Thanks - Jim </blockquote> 428 cobra jet head shims -- jim, 09/25/2005
I purchased a mustang with a 428 cj a few years ago. The car runs very strong but the compression is higher than I am comfortable with for street use. The heads were milled however I am not certain of the amount they were taken down. Has anyone had any experience with the .0020 CJ head shims which I believe are offered by Felpro. I thought this may be an option rather than finding a new set of heads.
Thanks - Jim
 RE: Is the engine audibly pinging? -- Gerry Proctor, 09/26/2005
You say you’re not comfortable with the compression but express no problem you're trying to solve.

A shim head gasket is not designed to be stacked with another gasket, so that route to lowering compression is a non-starter.

There are some options but you're working in the dark at this point since you don't know your specifics. Felpro's off the shelf performance composition gasket has a compressed thickness of .041" This would help drop compression only if the gasket that is now installed has a thinner compressed thickness. Your other alternative is a Cometic gasket. These you can get in whatever thickness you need. But going too thick in an effort to drop compression can create or exacerbate the very problem you're trying to avoid by reducing quench, which is a key consideration in lowering your octane threshold.

To make a beneficial choice, you're going to have to pull the heads and measure your actual chamber volume and determine what head gaskets were installed. Because of the ambiguity with how terms are used, your heads may have been machined but rather than being milled to reduce chamber volume, they may have only been surfaced, which, while it too does reduce chamber volume, is intended to only provide a flat surface. Surfacing has no measurably significant affect on compression. The only way to know what was done to your heads is to measure the chamber and compare the displacement to the blueprint specs. If you can't do this, a machine shop can.

If you are not experiencing any real problems, whoever built your engine may have already addressed the compression issue with lower compression pistons. But even with a higher compression, it's possible to address marginal situations with some careful tuning in both the fuel system and the ignition timing. There are plenty of 10:1 and over iron-headed street engines running fine on 93 pump gas. Despite the conventional Internet wisdom, it certainly can be done but it depends on the tuneup.
 RE: 428 cobra jet head shims -- Hi Rev 352, 09/26/2005
Hi Jim, One thing you may also want to look at is your camshaft timming/duration. there are many diffrent cam designs for all sorts of aplications of the FE motor. Some intended for low compession applications only. I have seen a 390FE with 10.5 factory rated compression were someone had installed a R.V. type camshaft It had a cranking compression of 240psi! A switch to the right cam lowered this number down to 180psi. Curious to know what your engine cranking compression numbers are? Best regards Paul,
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25850&Reply=25841><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Lowering Compression</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>You can get copper head gaskets from Cometic and Milodon. I have some on one of my 427's that are .100" thick. They are available in .050", .063", .080", .090", .100", .110" and .125" off the shelf. Other thickness are available on custom order.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Lowering Compression -- Royce Peterson, 09/26/2005
You can get copper head gaskets from Cometic and Milodon. I have some on one of my 427's that are .100" thick. They are available in .050", .063", .080", .090", .100", .110" and .125" off the shelf. Other thickness are available on custom order.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25853&Reply=25841><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Cometic vs block & head surface finish</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Wayne K., <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><br>I have heard that to use those head gaskets an appropriate / compatible surface finish must be used. Any truth to that? Just wondering for possible future use of those gaskets myself. Currently about to install the .041" Fel-Pros for almost 10.5:1 compression (but big cam).<br><br>Wayne K. </blockquote> Cometic vs block & head surface finish -- Wayne K., 09/26/2005

I have heard that to use those head gaskets an appropriate / compatible surface finish must be used. Any truth to that? Just wondering for possible future use of those gaskets myself. Currently about to install the .041" Fel-Pros for almost 10.5:1 compression (but big cam).

Wayne K.
 I didn't do anything special. -- Royce Peterson, 09/27/2005
Just put it together with copper coat KW gasket sealant and lived happily ever after.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25840&Reply=25840><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>66 Trany problem</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>KP, <i>09/25/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bolted a c6 to a new crate motor and found that the crank wouldn't turn. I loosened the bolts on the bellhousing and now it turns.<br><br>Any quick ideas on what I might have wrong? </blockquote> 66 Trany problem -- KP, 09/25/2005
I bolted a c6 to a new crate motor and found that the crank wouldn't turn. I loosened the bolts on the bellhousing and now it turns.

Any quick ideas on what I might have wrong?
 RE: 66 Tranny problem -- raycfe, 09/25/2005
Torque converter not seated in pump, or input shaft in wrong way, or wrong flex plate, or hub too big, or standard transmission pilot bushing still in crank. Sad part is that engine and/or trans has to come back out.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25832&Reply=25832><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Paint on Door Tag</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>09/23/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The previous owner painted over the door tag on my 1969 Mustang.  Any suggestions on geting the paint off without destroying the door tag information?<br>Thanks<br>Charlie </blockquote> Paint on Door Tag -- Charlie, 09/23/2005
The previous owner painted over the door tag on my 1969 Mustang. Any suggestions on geting the paint off without destroying the door tag information?
Thanks
Charlie
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25836&Reply=25832><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Actual codes are die-stamped, so don't worry about them. :-) [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Actual codes are die-stamped, so don't worry about them. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/24/2005
n/m
 RE: Actual codes are die-stamped, so don't worry about them. :-) [n/m] -- andrew, 11/13/2005
> n/m

I am going to check out a '69 merc. x-100, can you tell me what the correct vin should be if it has the 429/360 hp motor ? Thank you.
 ...but the background design will come off, if you use solvent. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/24/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25831&Reply=25831><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>will this bellhousing fit my application?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BB67FB, <i>09/23/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hello, I have a 67 mustang with a 289 in it that originally came with a 390.  I am starting to collect parts for the swap and want to know if this bellhousing will work.  I am not looking for the correct parts, just ones that will do the job! (originality is not a must.) thank you for your time!<br><br><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4576645582">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4576645582</a> </blockquote> will this bellhousing fit my application? -- BB67FB, 09/23/2005
Hello, I have a 67 mustang with a 289 in it that originally came with a 390. I am starting to collect parts for the swap and want to know if this bellhousing will work. I am not looking for the correct parts, just ones that will do the job! (originality is not a must.) thank you for your time!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4576645582
 found the answer with the search button! N/M -- BB67FB, 09/23/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25830&Reply=25830><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 block with triple webbing</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mark Viera, <i>09/23/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Did 1968 Galaxies with 428 engines get blocks with triple webbing from the factory?  </blockquote> 428 block with triple webbing -- Mark Viera, 09/23/2005
Did 1968 Galaxies with 428 engines get blocks with triple webbing from the factory?
 RE: 428 block with triple webbing -- giacamo, 09/25/2005
What do you mean triple webbing?Is the block webbed over the webbs like a casting mistake?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25843&Reply=25830><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: As a rule, no.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The reinforced main webs were a common trait in CJ/SCJ blocks (with the "C" scratch on the rear bulkhead) but there are no absolutes when it comes to Ford.  The web modification was around before the CJ run in other blocks and existed after the end of the run, particularly in the truck blocks.<br><br>As to your block...a betting man would say the smart money is on you block not having the extra triangulation rib in the web. </blockquote> RE: As a rule, no. -- Gerry Proctor, 09/26/2005
The reinforced main webs were a common trait in CJ/SCJ blocks (with the "C" scratch on the rear bulkhead) but there are no absolutes when it comes to Ford. The web modification was around before the CJ run in other blocks and existed after the end of the run, particularly in the truck blocks.

As to your block...a betting man would say the smart money is on you block not having the extra triangulation rib in the web.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25846&Reply=25830><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: As a rule, no.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mark Viera, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I had the oil pan off & it does have reinforced triple webbing. I was just wondering what things might have occur at the factory for a Galaxie to get a reinforced block. One thought came to mind was a shortage of blocks. My casting date of 8A8 seems too early for it to be a Cobra Jet block. I have not confirmed if the block has the C on back. </blockquote> RE: As a rule, no. -- Mark Viera, 09/26/2005
I had the oil pan off & it does have reinforced triple webbing. I was just wondering what things might have occur at the factory for a Galaxie to get a reinforced block. One thought came to mind was a shortage of blocks. My casting date of 8A8 seems too early for it to be a Cobra Jet block. I have not confirmed if the block has the C on back.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25847&Reply=25830><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Luck you.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Trying to assign some meaning to what you ended up with is a bit pointless since, again, there are no absolutes with Ford.  <br><br>Anything "could" happen and you can assume anything that makes you feel good but we all deal with great voids when it comes to explaining something out of the norm.  And as I wrote earlier, not just 428CJ blocks got the extra webbing so you can't assign a specific meaning for what else may be from just that. </blockquote> RE: Luck you. -- Gerry Proctor, 09/26/2005
Trying to assign some meaning to what you ended up with is a bit pointless since, again, there are no absolutes with Ford.

Anything "could" happen and you can assume anything that makes you feel good but we all deal with great voids when it comes to explaining something out of the norm. And as I wrote earlier, not just 428CJ blocks got the extra webbing so you can't assign a specific meaning for what else may be from just that.
 Am I crazy? -- Mark Viera, 09/26/2005
I know that sometimes it may seem like I want to know what the guys that built my car had for lunch that day (I believe it was pizza). I was just hoping that someone could throw out a few educated guesses just for fun.
BTW, I was thinking about having my engine block dusted for finger prints. That way I could hunt down the men that built my car and ask them myself.
Just kidding…..… I think:)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25852&Reply=25830><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Have you examined the block for a partial VIN-stamp? See...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/26/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=594&Reply=591">http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=594&Reply=591</a> </blockquote> Have you examined the block for a partial VIN-stamp? See... -- Mr F, 09/26/2005
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=594&Reply=591
 RE: Have you examined the block for a partial VIN-stamp? See... -- Mark Viera, 09/26/2005
Yes I did and that was how I figured out that the block came from a Galaxie LTD 2 door hard top. Once I figured that part out it really made the triple webbing seem even stranger. I spoke to the guy who owned my car back in 1984 (I told you I was crazy). He was the one that had the engine rebuilt. He told me that the machine shop had used a block out of a 428 Cobra Jet for the rebuild. The triple webbing seems to confirm that but the date code and partial VIN do not. I just assume that the machine shop was wrong. Again I was just hoping that I might get a few good guesses as to how a reinforced block ended up in a Galaxie.
 7 liter Q code GALAXY -- giacamo, 09/22/2005
Hay everybody checkout the 7 liter Galaxy at www.gatlinauction.com on the 24th up for auction?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25819&Reply=25819><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>67 Electrical problem?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dirk Hofman, <i>09/22/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 67 GT 390 S code.  It came factory stereo, heat, power stearing delete.  It was set up to be a drag car or a street cruiser.  Different Cam, MSD ignition, and a lot of other high performance stuff in the engine.  Anyway, I am learning as I go, but still have a ton to learn so my questions might seem simple/stupid.  At certain times I think it is way too much car for me. <br>Two months ago I replaced the battery and the alternator.  I put in a dry cell battery from Napa and the alternator I put in was the 61 amp for the 390 motor.  Everything was fine.  However, three days ago I felt my battery after driving around 30 minutes and the batter was awefully warm. Is there such thing as too much power coming from the alternator to the battery?  Is it OK to have a higher amp alternator even though you might not use it all?  Also, there was an odor coming from the trunk (were the battery is) and you could smell it even inside the car.  However I do not know 100% if the two are related.  The battery is not leaking or anything like that.  Is it common for the battery to get hot? Is my alternator too powerful?  Is something else possibly wrong?  Any ideas or help would be really appreciated.  Thanks! (BTW, Great forum!)<br><br> </blockquote> 67 Electrical problem? -- Dirk Hofman, 09/22/2005
I have a 67 GT 390 S code. It came factory stereo, heat, power stearing delete. It was set up to be a drag car or a street cruiser. Different Cam, MSD ignition, and a lot of other high performance stuff in the engine. Anyway, I am learning as I go, but still have a ton to learn so my questions might seem simple/stupid. At certain times I think it is way too much car for me.
Two months ago I replaced the battery and the alternator. I put in a dry cell battery from Napa and the alternator I put in was the 61 amp for the 390 motor. Everything was fine. However, three days ago I felt my battery after driving around 30 minutes and the batter was awefully warm. Is there such thing as too much power coming from the alternator to the battery? Is it OK to have a higher amp alternator even though you might not use it all? Also, there was an odor coming from the trunk (were the battery is) and you could smell it even inside the car. However I do not know 100% if the two are related. The battery is not leaking or anything like that. Is it common for the battery to get hot? Is my alternator too powerful? Is something else possibly wrong? Any ideas or help would be really appreciated. Thanks! (BTW, Great forum!)

 RE: 67 Electrical problem? -- raycfe, 09/22/2005
Check the charging voltage...should be about 14-14.5 volts. Any higher would be overcharging the battery. The charging voltage is controlled by the voltage regulator. Reproduction ones are junk, the only good part is the cover.
 Overcharging a battery can be bad...or simply awful. Read these... -- Mr F, 09/22/2005
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=128539&Reply=128539
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=127606&Reply=127606
 RE: 67 Electrical problem? -- Dirk Hofman, 09/23/2005
Thanks for the info. I will start with the voltage regulator.
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