sounds like a dam good engin with good bearings and a hv pump 35 at idel to 75 at 2500 to 6000+ is the range i try to achive on my rebilds..........

n/m

You don't need to do any modifications to the spacers vacuum channels or ports. From a performance perspective on the size of the bore on the spacer you'd want the spacer exit to be the same size or slightly smaller than the intake manifold's entry. Otherwise you'll have a lip on the entry transition which could upset airflow and lead to distribution and fuel drop out. This, however, is purely theoretical. It could, depending on the difference, create some intake turbulence that could be beneficial. Of course, the aluminum spacer will not provide any heat insulation.

I'll bet the carb needs a quick going through. You may have a ruptured diaphragm, clogged a jet, or have a leaky float valve.

A carb rebuuild kit, disassembly, and reassembly should get you back and running.

If you can bolt on a known good carb for a few minutes, you can verify this.

Shoe.

Three months is a more common date code limit for a casting in a vehicle.

A lot of folk don't understand the casting numbers on the sides of FEs from 1964-on have minimal correlation to what sand cores were stuffed into the mold. They've erroneously read the C6ME or C6ME-A always indicates a 428 block, and think they can bore it out. Unfortunately, the books are ignorant that C6ME or C6ME-A was used on all FEs and FTs thet year, though 427s did often get the more unusual C6AE-A casting mark, since the sideoiler did get different exterior detailing.

There is a small minority of 360/390/410 blocks that got 361/391/428 cylinder jackets, but since too many 390s have been overbored, it's possible you have an oinker with thin cylinders. If, however, the engine has 428 identifiers on it, or if the "drill bit test" suggests it's a 428 block, then you only need to sonic map the cylinders to be sure core shift looks good and you've got healthy cylinders.

Shoe.

I've never had any luck in recent years with stock starters in a performance FE application. Many others have complained just the same.

I've tried the fancy NAPA "Raylock" guaranteed starter rebuilds, as well as their plain rebuilds. Also tried rebuilds from other parts stores.

All crank nice when cols, dead slow when engine warmed. Lifespan is typically a year.

My method for starting when warm (using an 850DP Holley) is to pump the gas pedal about 5 times until it floods and crank the engine. It'll crank slow for one turn, then spin fast about 3 turns and fires up fine. The problem is apaprently that first slow turn is really hard on the starters, and soon the starters go bad. The failures do not follow any trend, each seems to be different -causing me to try another rebuild.

Note that I run heavy gauge cabling and high amp batterys, so electrical insufficiency is not the issue. One rumor is that rebuilders use less copper nowadays. Maybe that's true, I don't know. Maybe modern gasoline is blended for computerized spark timing, allowing more volatiles that fire better on cool days, but don't ping in hot weather because computers adjust the timing.

There are a number of possibilities, but I haven't pinpoionted any culprit.

There are two solutions: Either get an ignition delay or mini-starter. Or both.

The fancier MSD spark amplifiers (series 7??) offer a spark retard when the starter cranks. I don't know if this is desirable when cold, but it sure makes hot cranking easy and generally works when cold. I believe the Duraspark era Ford ignition may have had a model or two with a starter retard, but Duraspark is not an ignition amplifier like and MSD, it only offers normal spark energy as regulated (limited) by the ballast. Either should work well in your case (it's easy and cheap to stick common 302 Duraspark distributor guts into the FE points distributor), and the Duraspark amplifier is easier to hide.

High Torque ministarters are the most common solution. I made the mistake of buying a McLeod ministarter a few years back, and it did NOT fit with Hooker headers on a FE Galaxie, FE Fairlane, or Fe Mustang. It would probably have fit stock manifolds, but I returned it to Summit after a year of no luck, and they happily accepted it. I haven't yet spend on a new starter, haven't been driving a performance FE in years since I'm spending my money collecting factory FE engine blueprints and literature, but next build of mine gets a ministarter. Powermaster seems to get good reviews, as do a number of other brands. Check Jegs or Summit (avoid purchasing from PAW!) and you should be in good shape.

Shoe.

do a starter amp check wen cold and hot and a voltage test wial cranking i,v had to take back even new batteries that wer not up to snuf and check your batterie with a hydramenter. for spicific graviety on all the cells thease tests may help pinpoint your proublems......

Used on any FE (GT Mustang, 2bbl Galaxy, truck...) that wasn't a 427 or 428CJ/SCJ.

Nothing wrong with them but they're nothing special. The only difference (beyond the springs used for the GT cars) among the C8AE-H heads is the exhaust bolt pattern. Eight-bolt heads were used in everything that wasn't a Mustang or Fairlane/Torino, which used the unibody 14-bolt pattern.

They are so common that they are hard to sell for more than it costs to ship them if you're thinking of the ebay route.