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 |  Oilpans -- Ian Dobson, 03/22/2004
So I was looking at the Canton Road race low profile pan and the Miloden Road race pans and was wonderig which one would be better, or I guess more to teh point fit my car, I'm open to other suggestions too, these are just the only one that I have found, and ground clearence is what I don't want to sacrifice ans my stock pan has a few dents in the bottom of it..
I have a 69 Mustang with FPA headers, I am considering going to rack and pinion in the future, does anyone know if these pans will fit?
On another note, I'm looking for a "quiet" electric fuel pump, the one I have sounds like someone is in the trunk with a jack hammer :(
Any recomendations on that one too?
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 | fe driveline -- matt bailey, 03/22/2004
im new at fe drivelines need to know what trans will work in a 65 galaxie with a 352 engine
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|  | Standard or Auto? -- Ted, 03/22/2004
n/m |
| wiring -- jim shaver, 03/21/2004
ok im gonna rewire the 68... anyone know where i can get a stock harness or am i beter off making my own?
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| | Bore size -- Royce, 03/21/2004
I don't have the list in front of me but those letters / numbers in the valley are bore "grades". They told the assemblers which size piston to install in each bore for optimum fit.
Royce
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| shock towers -- jim shaver, 03/19/2004
hey changina a 68 from a 200 L6 to a 360 V8... will i need to change shock towers or will it fit as is?
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| what carb to use?? -- galaxiefreak64, 03/19/2004
should i use a 750 double pumper or the 750 elbrock proformer? its used on a 390 that has a mild cam. its in a 64 galaxie. any other suggestions would help, but i have narrioied it down to those double pumper or a proformer, but i would like to keep the stock 4v intake. |
|  | RE: what carb to use?? -- giacamo, 03/19/2004
with a stock intake i,d back off my carb by 100 cfm. |
| | | RE: what carb to use?? -- galaxiefreak64, 03/19/2004
so the doulbe pumper or proformer? |
| | | | RE: what carb to use?? -- giacamo, 03/19/2004
i,d use the doulbe pumper even though it may need a littel tweaking |
| | | | | RE: what carb to use?? -- galaxiefreak64, 03/19/2004
ok
so is it easily to tune, my dad has been working on old fords for about 30 years. but i really want to do it myself. if i buy it new will it have some instuctions on basic stuff?? |
| | | | | | RE: what carb to use?? -- giacamo, 03/19/2004
i think thear easy you can adjust the pump rate jets ect, most have the tuning instructions with them. |
| | | | RE: what carb to use?? -- giacamo, 03/19/2004
if you don,t have headers and electronic ing. i,d think about a 600 cfm double pumper i like the double pumpers i feal with a littel tweaking thay will out preform the AFB carter preformer type carb........ |
| | | | | RE: what carb to use?? -- galaxiefreak64, 03/19/2004
oh ok thanks |
| | | | | | RE:a different opinion -- McQ, 03/19/2004
A stock '64 intake on a 390 with a mild cam in a '64 Galaxie and you want to tune it yourself?
I'm not going to try to be a know-it-all but I just have to say that I think any Holley double pumper here is not the right choice.
I have used a lot of Holleys on FEs. There have been great ones and there have been problems. I have also used four different AFBs/Edelbrock Performer carbs. They have all worked perfectly and were reasonably easy to fine tune.
One app was on a 390, Performer intake, HP352 exhaust manifolds, electronic ignition, mild hydraulic cam all topped off with a 600 cfm Edelbrock carb. I bought E'brock's "Strip Kit" box of jets, step-up springs and metering rods. I used their little booklet that came in the box with the carb. There was a slight hesitation accelerating off idle. This was with the carb bolted on out of the box. I made some adjustments, i.e., primary jets, step-up springs, metering rods. The process took minutes and there was no gasoline leakage/spillage making these adjustments. I also added E'brock's kickdown lever since I was running a kickdown rod from the trans. This was in a F100 pickup. That carb worked perfectly without a single problem.
I had a similar experience with a 750 cfm, manual choke, on a 428 CJ. Again, all went perfectly. And in this particular instance the E'brock 750 matched the CJ Holley 735 in performance - not just seat-o-the-pants but actual drag strip E.T.s and mph.
I personally can't see a double-pumper on a mild 390.
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| | | | | | | RE:a different opinion -- galaxiefreak64, 03/20/2004
well i was thinking about the proformer carb becuse i see a LOT of the around here. so ill just buy the proformer and put a doulble on my 406. |
| | | | | | | | RE:there you go -- McQ, 03/20/2004
That makes more sense to me. The 650 Double Pumper may work very well on a 406. |
| water in oil -- mike, 03/18/2004
I have a 69 mach1 that has a rebuilt 390 in it.It has less than 500 miles on it.I have parked it for the winter( I live in Alaska).Today the temp is at 35 so I though I would change the oil before starting the car.Took the drain plug out,nothing comes out.Its frozen.Heat up the oil pan and water comes out,at least 4-5 ozs. of clear water.Is this condensation or do I have real serious trouble here.This is the first oil change since the rebuild. |
| | RE: water in oil -- mike, 03/19/2004
Thinking more about it it was more like 1-2 ozs of water and the oil was changed after it was first started. |
| |  | RE: water in oil -- greg, 03/19/2004
That little I would think would be condensation, but you wont know for sure until you start the motor. Happens to my boat here in sunny socal, I think because it's under a cover and after a few good rains condesation manages to get everywhere, I'm actually surprised at how much ends up in the motor. |
| | | RE: water in oil -- Gary Adam, 03/19/2004
Mike,
I also live in a cold climate.(Alberta, Canada) I know that if
you start a vehicle when its cold outside,
and especially when there is high humidity in
the air, you will get high condensation in the engine. If you do not warm the engine fully
up, the condensation will eventually find its
way into the pan, and in approx. the quantity
that you have found. By warming the engine
fully up, and then some, the condensation
should evaporate. A cold thermostat will
aggravate the problem even worse. No t-stat,
worse yet. More colds starts and shut-offs will
keep adding more water. This problem will
also rot out your exhaust real fast as the water
collects in the pipes/mufflers. Some say that
is why you should change oil in fall and in spring - to minimize condensation. Hope this
helps. |
| | | | Definitely condensation. -- Dave Shoe, 03/19/2004
Since it was clear water, it has to be condensation, either from normal crankcase blowby condensing at it hits the cool surfaces, or from the atmosphere condensing like the early morning dew (if stored outside). It's not coolant, since there is no antifreeze visible.
I find this to be a problem in Minnesota, and the engine needs to be warmed up and driven for at leat 10 minutes after getting warm to start removing excess water from the oil. Simply getting the heater to pump hot air is not long enough to start drying the oil.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| | RE: water in oil -- mike, 03/19/2004
Thanks for all the replies to the water problem.Im not running a thermostat in the car due to it being hot and I know that probably has something to do with it.I will put one in now once its back on the road again. |
| | | RE: water in oil -- Gary Adam, 03/19/2004
One more thing Mike. I was told that for every
gallon of gas burned, you create I think it was
the equivilent of 2 gallons of water vapour. So
even if this is only half true, that's still a lot of
vapour created. So like Dave says, if this gets
into your engine via blow-by, or even a small
portion gets into the engine by blow-by, its not
hard to see you collecting condensation,
especially with no thermostat.
Has anyone else heard of this gasoline to
water vapour formula/ratio? |
| | | | Just over a gallon. -- Dave Shoe, 03/19/2004
For every gallon of gasoline burned, you create a bit more than a gallon of liquid water.
Using the formula:
2*C8H18 + 25*O2 => 18*H2O + 16*CO2
...you find 228 grams of gasoline creates about 324 grams of water.
(I hope the symbols I selected didn't become some kind of HTML coding that makes the formula unreadable)
Shoe. |
| Hard to hot start 390 w/MSD-6AL -- Bill, 03/18/2004
I just installed a MSD-6AL on my 69 390 GT. It runs great, but is hard to start when warmed up. B4 the MSD, I had a Pertronix w/no thermostat, then I added the MSD and a 190deg thermostat. Now it runs warmer (75% on gauge), but is VERY difficult to start when warm. Timing is around 6deg BTDC.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Bill |
| | RE: Hard to hot start 390 w/MSD-6AL -- DangerousDave, 03/18/2004
Bill, The MSD produces multiple sparks in the low RPM range and should fire that engine right up, are you running headers? some headers on FE applications run so close the starter it gets heat soaked and draws the voltage way down during cranking, the MSD is a great unit but it is voltage sensitive, make sure you have chosen a good spot to tap the heavy positive feed to the box, and the voltage on that wire does not drop too much, other than that check the basics timming and distibutor phasing. Good Luck |
| | | RE: Hard to hot start 390 w/MSD-6AL -- Bill, 03/19/2004
Thanks, Dave. I'll check the voltage under load... |
| | | | Slow cranking or no fire? -- Dave Shoe, 03/19/2004
What do you mean by "hard to start". I can't picture your particular scenario without a more colorful description of how the engine is acting.
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE: Slow cranking or no fire? -- Bill, 03/19/2004
Basically it would'nt start until it cooled down...
Breaking news- I took Dave's suggestion about low voltage; seems that was the problem, I bypassed the MSD and it works great. So the lesson is to locate the wires/gauge size EXACTLY like MSD says: bigger is (almost) always better!
Thanks,
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| Clutch release fork ball -- Dano, 03/18/2004
I have a Lakewood bellhousing and I need to get the correct clutch fork release ball, It looks like they come in three sizes for a Mustang. 1.4", 2.317", and 2.640". It is going in a 69 Mustang with 390, and 428 style toploader 4 speed transmission, using a stock style fork. Does anyone know which ball I should be using? |
| | RE: Clutch release fork ball -- Charlie, 03/19/2004
I used the complete clutch set up from a 67 gt mustang with 390 in my last 390 conversion. as long as you dajust your clutch on installation as you waould any factory set up any should work fine.
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| What Carb to use?? -- Mike, 03/17/2004
What carb to use on a warmed up 390? i have a 1969 Cougar Convertible with the following mods to the engine:
9.5 pistons
FPA headers
balanced
Exhaust porting and stainless steel valves
latest performer intake
Comp cam lift is 487 int 493 exh
duration @.050 212 int 219 exh
stock dist thats been recurved etc.
So should it be a Holley 600 or 735.
thanks for your input
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