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| 64 Galaxie 390 -- crusinbuddy, 03/05/2004
I have a question on heater hose connections. Heater core connections are vertical, one above the other. Does the hose from the pump go to the top or bottom connection on the core? Does it make any difference? Thanks. |
| | RE: 64 Galaxie 390 -- giacamo, 03/05/2004
the core conections don,t really make much diferance.but make shure you have the water control valve on the hose that conects to the intake. i,v sean blown heater cores from over presser wen the valve was on the pump hose. this condishen is rare but wen the t stat is closed and the engin is reved it can create hi enuf press to blow heater cores,. |
| moog springs -- jeff, 03/05/2004
my1967 gal.500 2 dr. h/t. w/390 c.i. is sagging in rear. all v-8 galaxies take moog #8307. will this raise car up enough? sagging about 1-1/2". moog makes cargo springs also, i believe # cc801 & cc805, will these raise rear too high? |
| 360 vs 390 FE -- Don F, 03/05/2004
If given the choice of a rebuilt 390 or a rebuilt 360 truck engine, which would be the best for a cruiser?Both are stock and I am interested in smoothness and gas mileage.This is for a 64 galaxie convert/ |
| | RE: 360 vs 390 FE -- giacamo, 03/05/2004
the 390 is hard to beat much more reliant and i see no real diferance in mileage |
| 428 Damper? -- McQ, 03/04/2004
I'd like some advice, opinions, or links to information about a high quality damper-harmonic balancer for a 428 I have in progress.
Here's where I'm at with this project: .030 over C6ME 391-428 block, cross bolted with '27 caps, oil passage improvements, align bored(a must with the cross bolt caps) prepped for hydraulics or solids, C7AE-B rods with ARP bolts, 428 crank. I'm in the process of choosing pistons(they'll be forged) and a new damper. It will be balanced with both a NOS 428 flexplate and a new 428 flywheel. I want it ready for automatic or stick. I'm getting the basic short block done by my FE machinist, Dick Flynn. He likes Fluid Damper. But it's my choice.
I don't want an old 428CJ or 360 truck damper. I want a new one. There are two available on eBay right now.
Here's one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2463066258&category=33616&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
Here's another: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464385664&category=33616&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
I also have an ad from Super Ford, May, 1992, featuring a FE Dampener offered by Cobra Restorations LTD. in Kennesaw, GA, that looks very similar to a stock FoMoCo 427 damper. It would be nice to find one of those.
Thanks in advance for advice. I'm leaning to the nodular iron "Pro Damper" #2463066258 but I'm open to suggestions.
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| | RE: The first one... -- Gerry Proctor, 03/08/2004
Appears to be a Romac ( http://www.coasthigh.com/Dampers/P_Products/ford_fe.htm) which is one of the best FE dampers available.
The second one appears to be a Fluidamper which will not work with the FE unless you machine the crank spacer down.
If the first is indeed a Romac (I'd call or email the seller to be sure) then that's the one I'd pick.
Also, these balancers use the '68 and up pulley bolt pattern. That may or may not be an issue for you but it's good to know if this will be used on an earlier engine. It's not a big deal to use the later crank pulley.
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| | | RE: Thanks and just two more....? -- McQ, 03/08/2004
Thanks Gerry for your opinion regarding the dampers. The problem I had with the one you recommended is that the picture was not of the one being offered. I re read that quite a few times and decided to pass on it although I'm sure it's a regular offering on ebay.
There are currently two more available with a tremendous price discrepancy. I can't seem to link them here in the response so I'm going to create a new post to the forum as I did before. I'd appreciate your opinion one more time.
I'm about ready to make the purchase but I'm obviously not in a big rush. I still have to make a piston choice too. |
| | | | | | RE: They are the same. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/09/2004
Romac is the manufacturer for the Powerforce line of dampers which both of these are (just different packaging). The Powerforce is considered a stock replacement damper.
Romac also make an SFI-approved billet steel (and a steel hub with an aluminum ring) damper but they cost three times as much.
In a street application, neither works better than the other, other than the hit on your wallet. It's just that certain drag racing classes (like Super Stock) will require the SFI certificate to pass tech. If you continually operate the engine over the 6,500 rpm threshold, then you'd want the higher end damper. And it's not like the damper is going to explode if you hit 6,501 rpm. There is a bit of safety margin in the rating.
Most retail sellers price the Powerforce FE damper in the $90 to $100 range so if you need a damper (and what 40-year-old FE doesn't) and can get it cheaper than the standard retail, you have nothing to loose. |
| | | | | | | RE: thanks again -- McQ, 03/09/2004
Thanks Gerry, you've given the advice I need to make a wise buying decision.
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| Oil Pressure -- Tim P., 03/04/2004
What is the normal oil pressure for a stock oil pump re. mellings for 390fe vs. high volume pressure? |
| | Example from '65: 390PI = 45-70psi; all other 390 = 35-55psi. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/05/2004
n/m |
| | RE: Oil Pressure -- giacamo, 03/05/2004
i,v found a melling hv to give me 10 to 15 lb over stock pumps but the high press pumps seam to trash out cam and dist gears i tend to stay clear of them. |
| 390 Rocker Arm Bolt Torque -- Anthony, 03/03/2004
What should I torque the rocker arm bolts to on a '67 stock 390?
Thanks, Anthony |
| | C'mon, someone has to know this!! n/m -- Anthony, 03/04/2004
n/m |
| | RE: 390 Rocker Arm Bolt Torque -- galaxiefreak64, 03/04/2004
mmmmm i belive it 30-40 ft lbs |
| | RE: 390 Rocker Arm Bolt Torque -- Tim P., 03/05/2004
Book says 40 to 45 ft lbs. |
| Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/03/2004
I have a '65 FE that ticks. I thought it was an exhaust leak. I replaced every exhaust gasket on the truck and it did not stop. I took the valve covers off and the tick is definately coming from the right side valvetrain. I do not see anything out of place, and did not find any play between the rocker arms and the pushrods or valve stems. I am totally clueless as to what the problem is. Hope someone who knows more about this than I do can help.
Thanks |
| | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- giacamo, 03/03/2004
use a pipe or hose to lisen to your valve train this may help to pinpoint the problim |
| | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- rick, 03/03/2004
Make sure you do not have a bent pushrod that is hitting the intake manifold (remove bushrod a roll on a piece of glass). Some OE and aftermarket intakes have very little clearance in these areas, so it will not take much of a bend to cause contact. Also, if the tick is from the front cylinder and you are running low oil pressure (15# or less) then it could be a lifter tapping. The front lifters are the last to receive oil pressure, to resolve run heavier weight oil in summer. |
| | | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/03/2004
I took the valve cover off, and it sounds to me like the rear cylinder is where the noise is coming from. I installed new lifters, but did not check to see if the push rods were straight. Thanks for the advice, I will try that tomorrow. |
| | | | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/04/2004
I took the rocker shaft off, and the wear pattern on one of the valves is different than the others. It is not as broad across the top of the valve as the others. Could this cause some excess clearance?
Thanks |
| | | | | RE:Slightly bent push rod -- Ryan Hodges, 03/04/2004
I checked all of the pushrods, and one had a very slight bend to it when I rolled it on a large flat piece of glass. Could this be enough to cause a clearance problem and a ticking in the motor? It was also the pushrod for the valve with the odd wear pattern.
Thanks |
| | | | | | RE:Slightly bent push rod -- giacamo, 03/04/2004
maybe dous it show anny markes on it? |
| | | | | | | RE:Slightly bent push rod -- Ryan Hodges, 03/04/2004
There were several light marks all along the push rod. |
| | | | | | | | RE:Slightly bent push rod -- giacamo, 03/04/2004
i know the slighest tuch of a pushrod or oil deflector tin or dual valve springs can make noise and drive you nut,s |
| | | | | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- rick, 03/04/2004
I think you foun the culprit, swap the rocker, pushrod and lifter together with the front cylinder. If the tap has moved as well then bingo. What probably is happening is the rocker is getting a side load from the bent pushrod causing ot to rock on the valve, i.e. causing the tap. good luck. make sur to keep rockers pushrods and lifters together because of there wear patterns. |
| | | | | | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- rick, 03/05/2004
Oh, dont forget to put the rocker, pushrod, and lifter back in there original positions, when you are done, for wear purposes. Overall, I would replace the pushrods and rockers, it sounds like they have been through to many cycles. If they are new then check for coil bind. You did check to see if the pushrod was rubbing the intake manifold, right? I think new hardened pushrods are only $30 in summit, I'm not sure about rockers, but it would be a good time to up your rocker ratio if you have'nt already. |
| | | | | | | RE: Valvetrain Ticking Please Help! -- Ryan Hodges, 03/05/2004
I work at an auto parts store and I ordered a set of sealed power push rods today. They were only 20 bucks. I did check to see if they were hitting the intake. I didnt see any evidence of that. Also, the rockers themselves all look pretty good. The previous owner said he rebuilt the engine not too long ago. I guess he decided not change the pushrods to save a few bucks. I have changed oil regularly and it still very clean. Also I changed all the lifters a month ago thinking that was the problem. So hopefully after the rods, the problem will be solved. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Thanks for the advice |
| Pieces under valve covers -- 65 fe, 03/03/2004
I took my valve covers off to replace the gaskets. I was checking everything out, and I saw some pieces laying next to a valve spring. They were broken in two, but were round, and looked to be about 1" in diameter. I am new to fords, so I have no idea what this is. Also could this cause a ticking sound in the valvetrain? Hope someone out there can help.
Thanks |
| 427 Motor mounts -- George, 03/03/2004
I am installing a 427 in my 1967 Fairlane and when I went to bolt the motor mounts on the right one fit just fine, but the left on would not line up with the bolt holes in the block. All of the books that I have read indicate that they cary the same motor mounts as the 390 fairlane.
Does anyone know of a different motor mount for the left side?
George |
| | It takes a different motor mount. -- Royce Peterson, 03/03/2004
The block for a side oiler has the bolt holes relocated to clear the oil passage in passenger side of the block.
I doubt you will find an original. You will need to weld up the hole in the mount and add enough material to allow you to drill the needed holes.
Royce |
| Why is my 390 making a grinding noise?? -- Steve M, 03/03/2004
Has anybody ever had an engine make a grinding noise? It kind of sounds like a little rock in a washing machine. The sound does not go with the RPM's. I can feel the vibration in the brake when I am at a light also. It makes the noise in park and in gear. Any suggestions? The motor still has full power and runs very good. The oil and tranny fluid have only about 200 miles on them. |
| | RE: Why is my 390 making a grinding noise?? -- rick, 03/03/2004
Does your car or truck have a/c or power steering? If so try removing the belt that drives them and see if the grinding goes away. Could be a bad bearing in eather. |
| | RE: Why is my 390 making a grinding noise?? -- rick, 03/03/2004
One other thing, Is the engine recently rebuilt? If so make sure the rear cam plug was put in with the cup side toward the cam. I know this sounds backward but that is how FE cam plus go in. Been there but did not here any grinding noises. |
| | | No Ac, but I do have power steering -- Steve M, 03/03/2004
I will try yanking the power steering belt, I have never heard this kind of sound before. It is like a grinding and I cant pinpoint where it is coming from. |
| | | | RE: No Ac, but I do have power steering -- giacamo, 03/03/2004
some times loose flyweal or cracked torkconverter flexplate...... |
| | | | | RE: No Ac, but I do have power steering -- Steve M, 03/04/2004
Ouch!, I didnt want to hear that....Sounds like I have some work to do this weekend... |
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