I'm thinkig about running a Crane hydraulic roller cam (with about 600" lift) in a street/strip 390 and am wondering of any pros and cons in doing so.
I have recently read in this forum that with some roller cams on street driven FEs the lifters don't last long is this T/F ?
Also what rocker arms shoud I run with this
set up?
Thank You, Hank

Has anyone tried these spacers? They are pricey as hell but have read lots of good things about them.
http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/

Well as usual I blow things out of proportion on my projects. A simple rebuilt 390 to fit in my '69 torino went a bit out of control. So now the engine has full ARP hardware, including main studs, head studs, wavelock rod bolts, rocker arm studs, forged pistons, early model '64 390 heads ported and polished, cut for biggest valves that would fit, edelbrock cam (not sure about the performer rpm but will find out) Harland Sharp roller rockers, rocker shafts, stands and solid spacers, ford racing windage tray, mildon pan and valve covers, and a old edelbrock streetmaster intake with intake ports cut to match heads, 1" spacer, and brodrix turtle in plenum. factory distributor with petronix ignition, msd coil, talor wires, and last but not least a good rebuilt 750 holley vacuum secondary. I rebuilt the tranny with TCI kit, added a TCI streetfighter convertor, and dynomax bullet race mufflers with H-pipe and 3" exhaust all the way through exiting in front of rear tires. New carpet and a few other things in interior to make it nice, fit tach into clock opening in dash, and good gauges. I also completly rebuilt the front end, adding front disks off a '71 torino and even new springs to handle the bigger engine. I still need tires, 3.89 gears in the rear, and FPA's tri-y headers. I have no clue as to how the engine will run, I know comp ratio calculates to be about 10.5:1 but hoping it will be a decent hot rod. I am going to have to sell a kidney to pay off credit cards after all this but hopefully will have a fun car to drive with a fairly strong engine. I wonder what hp I will be looking at? Any ideas or suggestions?

do the valves come in different lengths.trying to make a deal on some parts. the new valves are the correct diameter stem but they are shorter than a valve i pulled out of one of my other old heads?

no CJ's , just plain 428's. OK, police interceptors too. Also, are there any quick obvious clues to positively identify a 428?
thanks

My midget-racer buddy turned me on to this stuff for my block end-cork sealing problem.

GE Silicone II for aluminum & metal. You can get it OSH, Home Depot, etc. Comes in tubes for your calk gun. Good to 400F. Sets up semi-hard, but can be removed a lot easier than "yellow death".

Gaerte Racing Engines uses it...it's gotta be good.

http://www.gesealants.com/sealants/diy/portfolio/silicones/silicone2.shtml

I have a 65 mustang w/ a 289. We replaced the heater core last year & everything worked fine. This year we put in a new engine, larger radiator, & flex fan to help the engine run cooler in the summer. Now the blower motor works fine but i get no hot air. We've checked & there is water circulation thru the heater core & the doors in the plenum are working fine. Can you give me an idea of what to check next? Thanks.

Mary

Some guys on another forum seem disappointed with the low-mid 14's they run with their 429 CJ's. Isn't that about where a 4 speed 390 would run?

Is this a good intake gasket for Edelbrock heads? I haven't had the Fel-Pro 1247 problem people have previously posted..I kinda like 'em, but the Victor Renz things I bought look more like exhaust donuts than a precision intake gasket. Hunting for something better.

I was recently gave an engine that has the casting number of 99 -352 on the front and 99 -352A on the back I know that the intake and distributor are off a 352. Where would I find the crank casting numbers on the crank? The casting numbers under the oil filter are W1 and RH38.