Tubbing is in the works (mini tubbing actually). My car will see more road course action than strip action. I am aware that moving the motor will be a major task. I am investigating this from two points of view. First w/o fire wall surgery and Second w/ firewall sergery. Any experience that you guys can share about motor mounts and such would be great.

The frame is stock at this poing.
I have installed weld in subframe connectors.
And my mini tubbing in the rear will not relocate the frame rails, just maximize the space available between the inner fender and the frame rail. I am running TCP coil overs in the rear
The shock towers are still there. I am running TCP coil overs in the front and a TCP power rack and pinion.
I am also concidering running a ROD 6-Speed w/ a hydraulic clutch and I am putting together an EFI with an old Edelbrock intake and concidering using the Accel Gen VI computer.

I have figured out the clutch and the throttle issues with moving the engine back. I know I will need a new driveshaft but that is a given if I go with the new trans so I need to figure out how and how much to move the engine back.....so I can do the modifications now instead of later which will require additional rework.

I am interested in any knowledge you can pass my way.

if you are willing to cut it up in the back just move the firewall and used a blockplate with the mid plate it will help with transfering horsepower to the wheels. the only thing is that you need to run a rubber trany mount or you will wipe out the rear seal and tail shaft. motor plates will also make headr install easier. i moved the fire wall 11 inches back and the pedals to the side on my 1983 ford ranger 2wd, its lots of work but the truck just hooks and goes. or look at just the engine plates without cutting the fire wall.

n/m

427 cranks interchange with 390,s i.v used 390 cranks in a pinch in 427,s this crank you have is fine it,s problie a over run from the industeral 427 engines used in compresores back then thats wy it,s cast type not forged as found in hp aps.........i feal the crank you have is as good as any 390 crank but has 427 ref numbers wich don,t realy mean much..........

..school buses? I'll bet you trained my driver...Kamakazi Calvin?

Heads & exhaust manifolds a must to start with! To my knowledge the only 2 exhaust manifolds that will fit in the 66 Fairlane are the 390GT & the 428CJ heads (which are now avaliable repro). If you elect to go back with the Edelbrock alum rpm heads, then only the 428CJ manifolds will work. 390GT will not. One side will bolt up but the other side has one bolt hole that will not work.

Use the shorty cast iron headers. Through the mufflers you will not be able to tell the difference over the long ones. The shortys are cheaper and also lighter in weight. A good muffler shop can make exhaust that fits.

The cast iron cruiso is a strong tranny. Its only weak point is putting it in gear with the engine idled too high. That is what can break the case at the main internal support brace. A good tranny rebuild is all thats needed. If a shop can rebuild an FMX from a Mustang, they can build the cast iron Cruiso. They are very similar.

John,
Thanks for the information. Back in 1981/2/3 I had an original R code 63 1/2 4 speed car that had 63,000 original miles. It had power steering on it, but it must have been modified for it. It was a super car that I didn't have to do anything to. Had the long cast headers, generator with large pulley, even the carbs and air cleaner were original. I only paid $380 for the car. It had been in the garage since 1970. I'd like a dozen more just like it for that price. I'd still go for either long or short cast headers for my current car, even having to make the PS cylinder bracket modification.
Thanks for your help.
Jim

of a 361 or 391FT is a forged steel crankshaft. It does require modification to work for an FE build-up. But if it's durability at higher RPMs you're looking for the FT crank is a reasonable alternative to a $ C5A, C6A, 427 froged steel crank.

If you look below at those few pics I posted last week of Dick Flynn's 370" SOHC you'll see a Bonneville proven FE(217 mph, 8,000 R.P.M.) that runs ..... none other than what started out as a junk yard FT361" crank.

Flynn is currently considering pulling a 391FT crank from a core to start yet another incarnation of the existing 370".

A forged steel FT crank easily machined to a FE crankshaft....it's worth a few bucks.

thats the one i mean, not pretty ,but want that stock look, any suggestions?

. . . I get the repro chrome ring?

thanks dan for taking a moment to answer some of my questions/ tell me your opinon of this ive tapped the lifter galleries, to 1/8 and installed my own restricters (not plugs) i felt that i wanted some oiling to my lifters, my block is other wise stock, ill be using edelbrock heads, #6006. i see your thoughts are not to restricte oil to the heads/ should i restrict a little bit? like .120 opening as compared to .080 is what im seeing mostly, whats ur thoughts. iv have opened up the the block at the oil pump opening that goes to the filter housing and ill have the 427 oil filter adpter too. whats ur opinon on hv oil pumps?