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 |  are these boss 429 shock towers? -- brent, 10/03/2003
I have a 1970 mustang with a front frame grafted on it from another mustang. It has what looks factory narrowed shock towers with heavy bracing. Could this be a Boss 429 front frame?
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| ![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18556&Reply=18545><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>Having problems with your eMail? [n/m]</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>10/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=5j1V7IJBhc-qdmzmrXlobkhAICKSvSncwqb0xjAd5TX0ACGuaKAXogAMi4xQgtrRcCD3h9c5Eb2rEw6mj54BQN9uf1WWYP8oApYJr_0s9gQbRpF4P26BjaIBa64tSGUM0&t=637814653746327080) | Having problems with your eMail? [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/04/2003
n/m |
 | shiny metalic oil -- Charlie, 10/03/2003
You guys will like this.
My brother bought a 428 from me last year. I had gone through the engine completely and it was ready to run minus carb. ignition and valve covers.
He finaly got the engine up and running. After break in changed the oil and noticed it was a bit shiny, not unheard of after break in.2nd oil change and oil still shiny. I drive to Denver to take a look. Two more oil changes on short drives and still shiny.
In fear of a bearing going out I opt for engine removal and inspection. Go down days off next weekend and spend 8 hours removing 428 from cramped 67 mustang.
I get the engine out and on the stand. I decide to start tear down to inspect. 1st off valve covers. OK set of gt chromes. On the inside of the valve cover I notice a shiny slimy substance?
I tell my brother to look at this and he says with out blinking... "Yah, I bought those at a garage sale for $5, but the inside was a little rusty so I painted them with some chrome paint so they'd look good."
Mystery solved no need to go any further I've found the shiny metalic oil.
Just thought you would all get a kick out of that.
Kevin if you read this, I'm sorry but it was too good to let go.
Charlie |
![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18540&Reply=18540><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>liters?</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>Frank, <i>10/03/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Okay guys, don't laugh =]<br>How many liters of motor oil is correct for my 410cid(standard)... </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=vG1pKMaqyV2y6301aKyltvXl1CGNYE0-Mc9frsC84_DI222YFzc4rDnsbtQEmDUqpvejEaNBouvxkCimoUCCRqPKPqZvM9KOiQXtK2Lluvg9jVsH8qm10Sv05bPp6HuM0&t=637814653746327080) | liters? -- Frank, 10/03/2003
Okay guys, don't laugh =]
How many liters of motor oil is correct for my 410cid(standard)... |
|  | RE: liters? -- Martin Micheelsen, 10/03/2003
There are 3.8 liters to a US gallon or 0.95 liter = 1 quart. My 390 with a standard oilpan takes almost 5 quarts when oilfilter and oil is changed. If I use 4.75 quarts that equals 4.75 X 0.95 liter - 4.51 liter. So just buy the same amount of oil bottles in liters as you would have in quarts - that should be close enough. |
| Value of fe heads -- Ryan Hodges, 10/01/2003
Can someone give me some idea what a set of C6AE-R heads are worth? I have a set just lying around in my garage. |
| | RE: Value of fe heads -- Gerry Proctor, 10/02/2003
Depends, Ryan. Are the heads complete (valves, springs)? What kind of shape are they in (valves, guides, and seats good, no cracks, no warpage)? Any machining or modifications (prior surfacing, valve jobs, porting, drilling)?
And there is a difference between selling them locally and on a global market like eBay. There's no reason to expect to get less than $200 for a local sale and the sky's the limit on eBay but usually between $200 and $300.
Those heads aren't rare but they are, depending on the application, the more desired standard passenger car heads. |
| | | RE: Value of fe heads -- Ryan Hodges, 10/02/2003
They are complete and in great shape. They were taken off of a running engine. I have stored them in a dry place. They still have all the springs and valves in place. |
| setting timing -- Dan Blaske, 10/01/2003
Well, Our father in law bought a '70 mustang with a '69-'73 351 windsor 2valve engine and 3 speed manual tranny. It had a bent push rod so I threw in a set of roller tip rockers and new push rods...also put in new points, msd cap/rotor and coil.
The problem is probably going to found in the points adjustment and the ignition timing, as this technology is foriegn to me...we mostly work on newer vehicles at our shop.(the sensor/computer controlled era of cars)
Right now I am experiencing some slight back firing through the smallish 2 bbl. carb. Timing is at 18 degrees>>tested with the vaccum advance still connected and at idle. If I try to bring the timing closer to the 6-10 degrees that I have found is the specs. for the motor...it runs rough and will run worse than the 18 degrees I am at right now.......what did I miss or what would you do? Please help me>>Dan-The Specialty shop |
| | RE: setting timing -- ed cougar, 10/01/2003
Make sure you drop the idle down to 500 rpm or as low as you can, this will take out the mechanical advance, now with the vacuum advance plugged off set you timing to 8*. You mention 18* with the vacuum advance hooked up, what is before you hook it up? you may have it pulling directly off the manifold and causing the timing to be way advanced hence the backfireing. The vac advance tube should be ported vac. off the carb and at idle vacuum is nill and wont effect the static adjustment. |
| | | RE: setting timing -- Dan Blaske, 10/01/2003
It seems this might be something that I'll have to post more info. about or start with more basic questions. I appreciate your advice, and didn't realize the vaccum source should be disconnected from the advance unit when doing the timing with a timing light.....I will be back tommorow with possibly a few more questions.....thank you again for your help! |
| | RE: setting timing -- Geoff McNew, 10/02/2003
You didn't mention what the point gap was, which should be 0.017" for your engine. Set the gap first. A remote trigger to jog the engine is really a help for timing, also setting valve lash, etc. Better, if you've got a dwell meter, you want around 28 degrees (26-31).
Then, set the timing with vacuum line plugged. Ford says 6 degrees advanced at an idle speed of 650 for your 2bbl Windsor with std. trans. |
| | | point gap is ok...another question>>> -- Dan Blaske, 10/02/2003
The vaccum advance has two vaccum lines going to it....which one are you all describing to pull off and plug?>>for checking the timing with a timing light.
Another thing that is making me wonder is the fact that I am not sure if the motor has hydralic lifters or solid...Since installing the rolloer rockers and the new push rods...the valve train isn't loud and noisey...it seems perfect. The reason I believe there to be a timing issue is because the distributo/points/wires and plugs were all removed and re-installed. Now after re-setting the point gap and leaving the timing at 18 degrees BTDC(with the vaccum advance connected)--The motor seems to rev off idle nicely and only complaint is a small pop-pop-pop at higher rpms with evidence that it is releasing some of this sound/pressure through the carb....not out the exhaust. Are we all on the same page? |
| | | | RE: point gap is ok...another question>>> -- ed cougar, 10/03/2003
What you have is a dual diaphragm distributor advance, the outer hose should be hooked to ported carburetor vacuum for advance under load conditions, the inner diaphragm uses intake manifold vacuum to provide timing retard during closed throttle and idle to reduce emisions, most people just plug the retard (inner) hose and run without it. Either way you must disconnect and plug all vac. lines to the distributor when setting timing. If you installed the rockers by just tightening them down then you have hydraulic lifters because if they were solids your pushrods would be all bent and the engine wouldn't run for the rocker adjustment is a critical step by step procedure with mech. cams. The backfire at high RPM sounds like timing too advanced. |
| | | | | update -- Dan Blaske, 10/04/2003
Ed,
I appreciate the info. you are giving me...it is very helpful. I am planning to finish setting the timing tonight or tommorow, and planning to cap off the inner vac. hose when finished.(thanks for the tip!!)
**I assumed that it had the hydraulic lifters after looking around and verifying what block/engine it was, double checked everything and all is good for the valve train still.....suppose I'm lucky for no bent parts, had it been a solid lifter set-up.
**I realize that there is a two barrell carb on this engine....is there any tuning tips you can offer to give us a little better performance?
My father had some backyard mechanic rebuild the carb and put it all back together...it runs, but seeing how many things he over looked...I am interested in double checking his work. I doubt his knowledge or abilities with working on this car.
**On the carb I can see the idle set screw on the drivers side. The electric choke on the drivers side is dis-connected from a previous owner...don't see a need for it anyways. On the passenger side there is a "thingy" that says lean with markings on the top of it....don't know what that is for.
I am familiar with the Edelbrock and Holley carbs and thier differences for adjusting the mixture...but what about this carb? |
| | | | | | RE: update -- ed cougar, 10/04/2003
I'm glad I can help there are a lot of great mechanics out here that have helped me out several times. the first fairly inexpensive upgrade that I would do is get rid of those points, use a pertronix module it's easy to install and you get instant performance gain for about $50.00. The autolite 2100 2v carb is about as basic as it gets, idle speed adjustment screw drvr.side. Idle mixture screws in lower front, that (thingy) that says lean-rich is the automatic choke actuator. It uses heat from the manifold through a small steel tube. You can adjust the choke by loosening the 3 screws enough to allow you to rotate the black housing rich-lean. The electric choke you speak of is actually a fast idle solenoid when equiped with air cond, of course I'm just shooting from the hip now without actually seeing it. Ok see ya glad to have helped. |
| | | | RE: point gap -- tom, 10/03/2004
I have a 66 mustang 6cly, do you know what I should set the points at.
Thank You |
| 428 Adj rocker help -- dave, 09/30/2003
Ive put the first 1000 miles or so on the 428 in my 69 XR-7. The engine was a slightly used fresh re-build that I purchased a few years ago that runs very strong. I have hyd. lifters and adj rockers that I set up by pumping up the lifters installing the valvetrain and adding 3/4 of a turn after the pushrods started to bind as I rotated them. Done with each cyls valves closed of course. I figured I would have to go in and re-adjust after the engine had been run at temp for a while. All has been well and I finallly got around to doing a plug check and adjusting the lifters hot. I noticed with the valve covers off that it appears that a few of the cups on the pushrods are VERY close to the body of the rockerarms. I completed re-adjusting the rockers and now after after the engine temps up I get a most annoying valvetrain tick. I did not find my inital adjustment far off but I loosened the rocker arm adj nuts to repeat the proccess of getting clearance and going 3/4 of a turn beyond zero. I had the car out on the road and finally opened her up for the first time on the highway and thats when the noise showed up. ANY HINTS Thanks! |
| fe noises -- Ryan Hodges, 09/30/2003
Even thought this is supposed to be a mustang forum, I hope someone can help me. I have a 1965 f 250 with a 352 fe. It has made a ticking noise as long as I have had it. I put a new set of lifers in, last month, and they did nothing to quiet the noise. This is my first fe, and I dont know much about them. Does anyone know what else could be making the noise? I do know that it is coming from under the passenger side valve cover. Sorry to be so long winded. Thanks for your help. |
| | RE: fe noises -- Ed B, 09/30/2003
If your valve guides are worn that will cause a clicking noise, similar to a bad lifter. |
| | RE: fe noises -- Allen, 10/01/2003
First, this isn't just a mustang forum, it is an FE forum, so any vehicle with an FE is fine to discuss. Second, I had a similar problem when I first bought my 390. The problem ended up being that the previous owner incorrectly installed the timing chain. Did the clicking noise just start out of the blue? If you just got the truck, or just have the timing chain changed, I would check this out. The ultimate problem is that the original timing chain used a seperate spacer between the cam gear and cam, but newer gears have this spacer cast on the gear. So if you install the new gear, with the old spacer, the gear will be too far out, and it will hit the timing cover. By the time I figured this out on my car my cam was also ruin from being pushed back too hard. It is worth it to check it out. |
| | RE: fe noises -- giacamo, 10/01/2003
sometimes the oil deflector tin under the rockershaft touches the springs |
| crossbolts? -- 390ranger, 09/30/2003
i am contemplating building a 390 stroker and running 13.1 compression. i plan on hardblocking the motor. Are crossbolts necessary with this compression. I am recieving conflicting information. i dont want to build a motor and split the block after a couple of passes. any input would be appreciated. |
| | RE: crossbolts? -- Gerry Proctor, 09/30/2003
The crossbolts help control cap walk at higher rpm so, in that regard, it has no relationship to compression. |
| | | Crossbolts would work well with high compression. -- Dave Shoe, 09/30/2003
High RPMs generate inertial loads which stress bulkheads, but high compression and supercharging also generate bulkhead forces which can twist cranksaddles and cause maincaps to follow.
I suspect your racing build would benefit greatly from crossbolts.
Shoe.
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| | | | Where to buy crossbolt caps? -- 390ranger, 10/03/2003
THanks for the info, i plan on limiting my revs to 6000 rpms. Does anyone now a good place to get the cross bolt caps. |
| | | | | RE: Where to buy crossbolt caps? -- BarryMcLarty, 10/03/2003
Gessford machine shop in Hastings NE.http//www.gessford.com.I think they were about $350. |
| | | | | | RE: Where to buy crossbolt caps? -- 390ranger, 10/03/2003
Thanks DSC motorsports claims to have them for $250. Are they a reputable source. Tahnks for responding |
| | | | | | | RE: Where to buy crossbolt caps? -- BarryMcLarty, 10/03/2003
Gessford sells some Dove parts,and sells 428 blocks crossbolted and ready to go to work.Have had work done theree,and bought parts.They are very good and are mainly concerned with F.E. parts and services.Check em out,they have a pretty good web sight |
| | | | | | | | RE: Where to buy crossbolt caps? -- Glenn N., 10/04/2003
If your block has the bosses look for a set of
"27" caps. Also pro-gram eng sells a crossbolt cap kit for the FE series. Price is $300. I had a "28" block I wanted to crossbolt and Gessford shyed away. george said it wa a major PIA but this was with 427 caps. The pro-gram caps sem to be an easier alternative and are more "non boss" friendly. g. |
| transmission oil -- Mike, 09/29/2003
Can anyone tell me the differences in types A, F, FA and what is the modern replacement? |
| | Use what is recommended. -- Royce Peterson, 09/30/2003
Type "A" is basically hydraulic oil with few additives. Type "F" and "FA" are interchangeable Ford specified fluids with friction modifiers and seal treatment specifically designed for use in Ford products. All are available at the average auto part store. Generally anything can be substituted for Type "A" but if your car is supposed to have Type "F" be sure to use Type "F" or "FA".
Dexron or Dexron II are specified for some late model Ford vehicles, again use what is specified or there will be trouble. No fluid is better or worse than any other, they are simply designed to work best for their application and type of band material or seal material.
Royce |
| | RE: transmission oil -- Mike, 09/30/2003
They aren't available anymore, what's their replacement? |
| | | Where do you live, France? -- Royce Peterson, 09/30/2003
They are available at all the part stores here. "A" can be hard to find, you can still special order it from NAPA or Pep Boys though.
Royce |
| | More Ford ATF specs than you can shake a stick at... -- Mr F, 10/05/2003
| AA |
Automatic Transmission Fluid |
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Type A, Suffix A |
| AF |
Automatic Transmission Fluid |
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Dexron®, Dexron® II/IIE |
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Ford Specification No. ESP-M2C138-CJ and
ESR-M2C163-A
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| AF3 |
Automatic Transmission Fluid |
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Dexron® III |
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Ford Specification No. ESR-M2C166-H |
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GMH Specification No. HN 2126 |
| ASP11 |
Ford Mercon V |
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Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
(Better heat-resistance and more friction modifiers than previous versions)
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| AX |
Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F
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Ford Specification Nos. M-2C33-F/G
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Leyland Australia Specification No.
OATF-2
(Organic Automatic Transmission Fluid; no friction modifiers)
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| | RE: transmission oil -- darren, 10/17/2003
hey, I work at a quick lube shop, and I have a '68 c4 that requires the use of type F, and after tons of research, I found out that if the trans has been rebuilt in the last 2-3 years, it should be safe to run dexron 3. the reason for that is the type F was made to reduce the chatter some of the internal parts made. But with the exception of the chatter reduction additive, the two fluids are the same. I have been running dex3 in my trans for well over a year now, and I notice no difference, except that the dex3 is cheaper to maintain. hope I was of some help. |
| | | RE: transmission oil -- Erik, 02/09/2004
I always thought Dexron ATF was to harsh on the organic clutch-plates found in Ford transmissions and that you really should use type F or equivalent. In a GM-type transmission such as Turbohydramatic 350 or 400 using type F instead of the recommended Dexron II would not cause any problems and actually reduse the clutch-slippage! |
| | | | RE: Other way around, Erik. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/09/2004
Using type F in a trans not spec'd for it will lead to a speedy demise of said transmission's friction materials and seals. Type F has friction modifiers that aid in friction surface holding capacity. A C4 or C6 made earlier than 1978 and still using the original friction materials and seals will need type F fluid. Otherwise, it will slip. If your trans has been rebuilt with modern friction and seal material, you'd use a Dexron. |
| | | | | RE: Other way around, Erik. -- Erik Joys, 02/12/2004
Point taken Gerry! The reason I mentioned Type F in a GM application is because some time ago(well, actually about 12 years) I purchased a shift-kit for a -78 Chevy Blazer from Summit. In this kits instructions it recommended using type F for I quote:"crisper shifts". Since then this has stuck with me untill now! |
| | | | | | RE: You are correct, they did. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/12/2004
And everyone I know who did it had massive transmission failure (the band and clutch material in pieces in the pan) within six months. I don't know if they still make that recommendation, but the last B&M shift kit I installed some years ago still had that "tip."
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| | | | | | | RE: You are correct, they did. -- Erik Joys, 02/12/2004
How about that! I'm glad this was cleared out!
But just to make sure using type F in my -66 C4 should be OK no matter what year band and clutches it has, right? |
| | | | | | | | RE: Wrong. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/12/2004
If your C4 has been rebuilt using the more common organic linings, then you should use a Dexron fluid. If you don't know for sure what linings it has then you can pretty much guess that if the rebuild occured within the last 20 years or so that it probably does not use the Ford factory-type linings and is safe for Dexron. If you use Dexron and notice that the trans shifts have a light flair to them (not quite as firm) then you probably have the Ford-spec linings. |
| 390 Aluminum heads -- Terry Oliver, 09/28/2003
I am rebuilding my 390 for my 66 Fairlane convertible. I am considering using Edelbrock's Performer RPM FE aluminum heads with roller rocker set up and Ford 390GT cam. I have a tri-power setup already. Has anybody had any experience with the Edelbrock heads?? |
| | RE: 390 Aluminum heads -- 390 ranger, 09/29/2003
with the amount of money you will spend to recondition stock heads and springs and valves you cant lose. I love mine |
| | | RE: 390 Aluminum heads -- T.O., 09/29/2003
Glad to know. Now I can sleep a bit easier. |
| | | | Be sure to use... -- Dave Shoe, 09/29/2003
...studs with the rockershaft pedestals, as bolts are torqued high enough th have a nasty effect on the helicoils. I consider rockershaft end support pedestals to be critical in reducing shaft flex, but if you use a stock cam profile, flex may not be a serious issue. Shaft flex becomes a factor with any newer cam designed with steeper lift ramps for use with higher technology valve springs that were simply not available back in the '60s.
Also, be sure to use CJ headers, not 390 headers, as the exhaust port position is different in some cases (the exception is C6AE-R castings are best suited to high-position CJ headers, other 390 Fairlanes and Mustangs are best suited to their respective low-position headers.
Shoe.
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