Cheapy FE car headers disappeared over a decade ago, and sadly truck headers don't come close to fitting.

FPA is a worthwhile investment, but if you have C6AE-R heads in that car (many '66-67s 352/390/410/428s came with this casting), you'd be best served by 427 or CJ type headers. Since you more likely have C6AE-U, C6AE-Y, or C7AE-A castings, stick with FPA, or you might want to check with Hedman or Crites as a possible alternative, though cost is likely similar. I know Hooker makes no car headers which are compatible with the -U, -Y, or -A heads.

FPA offers the easiest install, by far.

Shoe.

Sanderson also has a set for a little over $300. I have not checked into them too much yet. I do know that the FPA's are the only ones that say they will clear the 4-speed in my '67 XL.

See what size drill will fit between the cylinders going through the freeze plug hole. Very few non - 428 blocks can be bored to 4.13 without hitting air. If a 3/16" drill is tight or won't fit between the water jackets you can get it sonic checked. If this test is not true you have a 390 block.

The casting numbers are useless.

Royce

I set them on my 427 at .025" on both, seems to work fine. Have you tried emailing Crower to see what they recommend?

Royce

my norm is 18 cold 22 /24 seams alot hot ?

Mike,
Like most cars, there were probably several choices. There are a couple of ways to find out. First, look on the differential housing. All old Fords were equipped with a tag noting the ratio. If you are lucky, the tag is still there, and the original ring gear is still in the car. The other way is to lift the rear of the car with a floor jack under the differential housing so that both rear wheels are off the ground. For safety, support the car with jack stands. Then, mark the drive shaft with a piece of chalk. Also, mark the tire with chalk. Turn the drive shaft with your hand, and the number of times the drive shaft turns per one revolution of the tire will give you your ratio. i.e. If the drive shaft turns 3 1/4 turns to one revolution of the tire, you have a 3.25 ratio. I hope this helps

most t birds had 3.oo or 3.25 rear ends.

I appreciate it very very much.

My 390 gt(68),had casting C7ME on it.This shows it was made in 67,but it was the original block in my car.

http://www.mansfieldmustang.com

One really needs to have a 390IP to properly answer this question, but I'll take a shot at it.

First off, the block will be the same as any 360/390 FE block for 1969. It might have C6ME, C6ME-A, C7ME, C7MEA, C8ME, C8ME-A or no marking at all. It will likely have a date stamping code of 3 months or less before the date the car as built, most often about a week or two earlier.

The intake may be one of the "T" type C9ZE marked intakes, but it might also be an earlier "S" marked intake that sits a bit taller but breathes no better. I don't have a full set of facts on this, but the casting date would likely be more important than the casting number.

Exhaust manifolds: (Man, it's tough to edit these posts nowadays). Check the casting dates to be sure.

Heads would be C8AE-H, and some municipalities in California or NY may have required Thermactor be installed into the bosses.

Timing chain cover would be the C8AE version, fan depends on accessories, etc.

The "other" portion of your question is the mind blower, as I suspect you want to know the correct spark plugs, carb, distributor, and everything else. If I understood the context of your question, it'd be much easier to provide the info you really need.

Man, it's tough to edit these posts with the new interface. I gotta develop a new writing style that doesn't require that I reposition sentences and paragraphs as I'm writing.

Shoe.

Well you for sure don't want to cut the springs if this is to be a street/strip car. Your spring rate with those big block springs will be so high that the front won't compress and rebound for weight transfer. It will also ride like a dump truck on the street. You're best bet is to get a set of six cylinder springs or no-option small block springs and use a bigger front sway bar. That way you'll have the front suspension reaction and limit body roll with the larger bar. You might also look at the compression/rebound of the shocks. Drag cars generally use 90/10 but those can be a little difficult to live with on the street. 60/40s are a better mix for a dual-use car. If you have the bucks, you can also get adjustables.

I personally can't help you on the 3550 swap other than to let you know it's a common swap and there should be an abundance of information online if you use a search engine.

call doug anderson in alb. n.m. he owns ams there a motor sport dealer he knows more about fe eng. than ford . 505-242-3548