I'd guess that motor did not come with a 4 bladed fan. It probably had a 7 bladed fan with a clutch. It also had a fan shroud. Attached is a couple of image of a recent salvage yard find that is what you should be looking for.

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Well, for one I would be sure to put threaded pipe plugs in all the oil gallerys. Cost me plenty when a pressed in plug blew out on the first fire up and oil pressure went away.
Glenn

I have heard bad things about the Keith Black hyper pistons. I used Sterling Hyper pistons on my 390, which I just rebuild a couple months ago. Also, I think the 750 cfm may be too much for a 390. I would go with a 650 or so...I am using the Edelbrock and it is working fine for me...not only will this prevent you from overcarbuerating it (which is common on street machines) but it will improve fuel economy, and since you will need to use premium gas, and fill up often, this will prove helpful. I don't know much about Edelbrock cams, but Crane and Comp have better name recognition, and I have good luck with my Comp 268H. THe FE oiling system is one weak spot. I am using a melling HV oil pump, hardened oil pump shaft, and milodon 7 quart pan. The hardened shaft is a must, since if this breaks your screwed. Good luck

lanse allen has a good combo i love comp cames 265 or 268 myself i use federal mogel pistons cast flat tops and never had a piston give out.650 carb workes best for me.i allways install allen plugs in oil galley holes i hate thouse littel plugs ford instales.and i allways have hard seats instaled in exaust valves.i have found a melling hi volum pump workes good but a hi pressur pump will trash out dist and cam gearand never use a rope rear seal and i love felt pro gaskets

Lanse,
The items you have listed sounds like a well matched combo,E-brock packages work extremely well together.When shopping for your core use the fact that your car can use the early style block as well as the late because the demand for early blocks(61-64) is almost nil so you should be able to get a good one for near giveaway price,plus you have the advantage that 61-63 era blocks supposedly have slightly thicker cylinder walls.Just remember depending on the block you may have to use the early style main bearings which use a thrust bearing with a smaller diameter flange.With some luck and good shopping around you may be able to squeeze some E-brock aluminum heads into your budget.Good luck.

65 and newer blocks higher nickel content .

Keep in mind the stock 390GT cam(same as 428 CJ cam),had almost.500 lift and it sounded healthy,had a wide power band,and presents no problems as far as springs and stock rockers go.The cam you are thinking of using would be fairly mild,and would sound like it.We put a CJ factory cam in our 72 F250 two barrel tow vehicle,and I can testify that it was a notable improvment over stock.

yes! by all means go with the c.j. cam, ideal for light trucks and works excellent

n/m

i made a plate with a ring welded to it. and driled it out to bolt on inplace of the carb.it balanceds out perfect. and gives me just anuf lift to get fe,s out of 4 wheal drives.

steve i forgot to tell you i take the studs out and bolt my carb plate on with grade 8 bolts tight and flush. and it is very solid and be careful any way you hook to it.thay are heavy engines.

> Tore down a 390 todayand found it was aC7ME-A block.In the lifter valley
> is casting mark 352 with 48 underneath it and a large X beside it.I have
> 1 other C7ME-A block and it does"t have these numbers,Do they signify any
> thing of importance?

I'am a newbe to this site and had this same conversation just last nite. It seems that there are blocks with the X in the lifter valley. We were going through a large pile of FE blocks and found some with the X. Also found some with two X's, and some with three X's. These are not raised cast, but recessed into the block. Will find out more this weekend.

Actually, the 1971 Galaxie 390 was a pickup truck engine.

Prior to this, the car 390 was generally available in 9.5:1 and 10.5:1 compression ratios. The truck C.R was always roughly 8.5:1 to prevent pinging while towing heavy loads and it actually got Mercury 410 pistons installed to achieve this low compression ratio. You'll find the 390 truck pistons have a C8TE casting number inside them, but 410 text markings on the side.

Otherwise, the engines are similar, but with minor differences.

Note that 360 pickup engines got 390-4V car pistons. Some were cast with "390-4V" on the sides, and others had the "360" text on the sides. Both were the same.

Shoe.

the '68 - '76 360, 390 truck cam was .427"/.431" @ 256*/266*, the non-performance 390 car cams were around .438"/.438" @ 256*/256*.

As shoe said, the '71 car 390 was the truck 390. No mention of that in the sales brochure. :)

I don't know the URL but be forewarned that the Dove website makes claims for parts they don't have. For example cast iron FE 427 blocks and cast iron 428CJ heads.

There is also a long discussion where Jim Dove claims that FE stands for "Fairlane Engine". The whole thing is a sad testimony on Dove, just be sure you keep one tongue firmly in cheek while reading it.

Royce

I sense a bit of sarcasm with regard to this guy (Dove). What is the story? The first time I learned of Dove parts was at a Columbus Swap meet at least 10 years ago. I picked up one of his catalogs. I remember it offering a very large variety of cylinder heads and even a SOHC kit. Since that time I have not heard really anything that would cause me to run out and get a set but I also haven't heard anything that would cause me to run the other way. I opted for a set of Edelbrock heads and RPM intake when the time came because of the article I read in Super Ford Magazine. I think Kuntz was building up an FE with Edelbrock heads. According to the article, he stated he would rather do extensive porting to the Edelbrock heads than deal with the porosity problems associated with the Dove heads. It sounded like the Dove heads were better performers but not worth the extra effort. I figured Edelbrock had the most experience in this arena. Well, the heads showed up on my doorstep with a load of shot blasting material in every nook and cranny. I had to disassemble them and thoroughly clean them. The oil drainback holes were about 90% blocked by the intake manifold gaskets and the valve guide seal didn't last at all. I ended up calling their customer service depatment and got a hold of one of their quality engineers. They were very apologetic and took the heads back. They did not give me another set though. They put a new set of improved guides and seals in them and dressed the valve seats no charge. I would have preferred a new set obviously. Upon reinstallation, I made sure I trimmed the intake manifold gasket slightly to allow the oil to drain back more freely in from the heads. Since reinstallation I have been pleased with the performance of the heads although I do not think they have perform any better than my stock CJ heads. I no longer suck oil down the guides and my valve covers do not fill up with it anymore either. Their customer service met expectation but did not exceed it.

All I am saying here is that it would appear that there can be problems with anybody's products. The buyer must beware and make sure they understand the return/exchange policy of the company they are buying from. The internet is a very powerful tool that cuts both ways. If someone has a beef they can really do some damage to a person's professional reputation.

I would like to learn more about Dove Performance from people who have actually purchased their products and used them on something more than a trailer queen. If soemone out there has some first hand legit info, good or bad, I would certainly like to hear it. Also, it would be good to hear what sort of customer service they offer. At the end of the day this can mean the difference between who you buy from. Edelbrock made a mistake, but they had the resources to fix it and not hurt their bottom line. Smaller companies do not have the luxury of large customer service budgets.

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