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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18397&Reply=18397><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>427</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>bret o., <i>09/14/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>just bought a 67 mustang with a 427 in it would like to know what casting no. to look for .  i founthis number on the front                   30                                                                 352 </blockquote> 427 -- bret o., 09/14/2003
just bought a 67 mustang with a 427 in it would like to know what casting no. to look for . i founthis number on the front 30 352
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18396&Reply=18396><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>need a good machine shop</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Zack, <i>09/14/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>help!... Im getting ready to get my 66 427 cross bolt main marine block cleaned and checked and also would like to get the machine work done but I dont want to take it to just any "Brand X oriented" machine shop. can any one help me with suggestions on where to find a FE familiar shop . Im located in eastern PA and Im willing to go any where in the tri state area    ( PA, NJ, DE/MD ) <br>thanks, zack  </blockquote> need a good machine shop -- Zack, 09/14/2003
help!... Im getting ready to get my 66 427 cross bolt main marine block cleaned and checked and also would like to get the machine work done but I dont want to take it to just any "Brand X oriented" machine shop. can any one help me with suggestions on where to find a FE familiar shop . Im located in eastern PA and Im willing to go any where in the tri state area ( PA, NJ, DE/MD )
thanks, zack
 You might try asking local Ford car clubs... -- Mr F, 09/17/2003
Find a Ford Mustang club, near you...
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18386&Reply=18386><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>410 performance pistons?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>cuzncletus, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm a few days away from pulling my .030 over 410 (mid-70's 360 truck block with 66 428 crank).  It's got a lot of good parts I'll re-use but want good pistons this time as it will be balanced, honed with torque plate, decked, and other correct procedures.  I'm running Badger cast pistons.  I may have to go another .010 but surely not more than that; the motor doesn't have many hours.<br><br>I know Ross makes 410 pistons in .030 over.  Anybody know of any other manufacturers who list something in this application?  Hypereutectics would be fine. </blockquote> 410 performance pistons? -- cuzncletus, 09/12/2003
I'm a few days away from pulling my .030 over 410 (mid-70's 360 truck block with 66 428 crank). It's got a lot of good parts I'll re-use but want good pistons this time as it will be balanced, honed with torque plate, decked, and other correct procedures. I'm running Badger cast pistons. I may have to go another .010 but surely not more than that; the motor doesn't have many hours.

I know Ross makes 410 pistons in .030 over. Anybody know of any other manufacturers who list something in this application? Hypereutectics would be fine.
 RE: 410 performance pistons? -- Glenn, 09/13/2003
Hold onto your wallet !!
http://www.rosspistons.com/automotive_stocking_pistons/feford.php3
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18378&Reply=18378><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Guy Ramsey</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey all,<br><br>It seems like the 68 GT 390 site has been inaccessible for months now.  Anybody know what's going on?   </blockquote> Guy Ramsey -- Patrick, 09/12/2003
Hey all,

It seems like the 68 GT 390 site has been inaccessible for months now. Anybody know what's going on?
 guess maybe he didn't sell enough tee shirts? lol -- billybob, 09/14/2003
'.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18369&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/11/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi all. I was just wondering what the easy mods are for a 68 390 2bbl galaxie, all stock. I do plan rebuild the engine in the near future. I would also like to keep the $$ down. The car will be used only on the street, and I just want to add a kick to it.<br>I have been reading some of these post with people claiming 12-13 sec 1/4 mi with stock set up. How is this possible? But with an engine 35 years old I'm sure I would see gains after the rebuld. </blockquote> New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- Nick, 09/11/2003
Hi all. I was just wondering what the easy mods are for a 68 390 2bbl galaxie, all stock. I do plan rebuild the engine in the near future. I would also like to keep the $$ down. The car will be used only on the street, and I just want to add a kick to it.
I have been reading some of these post with people claiming 12-13 sec 1/4 mi with stock set up. How is this possible? But with an engine 35 years old I'm sure I would see gains after the rebuld.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18371&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>09/11/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>my streat combo is 10.5 pistens mod 365 comp cam 389 510 lift and springs 650 cfm 4 bl carb i have found this combo very streat friendly with stock exaust and workes well in a heavey car or pickup </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- giacamo, 09/11/2003
my streat combo is 10.5 pistens mod 365 comp cam 389 510 lift and springs 650 cfm 4 bl carb i have found this combo very streat friendly with stock exaust and workes well in a heavey car or pickup
 RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- giacamo, 09/11/2003
oops i mean 489 510 lift
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18373&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>does the 10.5 pistons mean 10.5 compression? </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- Nick, 09/12/2003
does the 10.5 pistons mean 10.5 compression?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18374&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I also read an article somwhere on the net that said yuo could port your own either heads or headers with a die grinder, due to the exhaust system being very restrictive. Also I have replaced two sets of exhaust manifold gaskets, and that is no easy task on my car. I know torqueing is very important, but on some of those exhaust manifold bolts I can only get an open ended wrench on them, and then I use the RFT method (Real F*in Tight). Does anyone know of an easier way to torque these bolts accurately?<br>I want to provide as much horse power and torque as possible while keeping the car stock. Or at least something not so time consuming to switch back to stock since all parts are original. <br>Also I've heard that most FE's come with a 9" rear, what numbers should I be looking for, or any other way to Identify this? Also if anyone has a list of block, head, intake, header, and diff numbers for my car so I can identify and confirm that the car is all original, because I'm sure that alot of people have bought their car only to find out otherwise. </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- Nick, 09/12/2003
I also read an article somwhere on the net that said yuo could port your own either heads or headers with a die grinder, due to the exhaust system being very restrictive. Also I have replaced two sets of exhaust manifold gaskets, and that is no easy task on my car. I know torqueing is very important, but on some of those exhaust manifold bolts I can only get an open ended wrench on them, and then I use the RFT method (Real F*in Tight). Does anyone know of an easier way to torque these bolts accurately?
I want to provide as much horse power and torque as possible while keeping the car stock. Or at least something not so time consuming to switch back to stock since all parts are original.
Also I've heard that most FE's come with a 9" rear, what numbers should I be looking for, or any other way to Identify this? Also if anyone has a list of block, head, intake, header, and diff numbers for my car so I can identify and confirm that the car is all original, because I'm sure that alot of people have bought their car only to find out otherwise.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18375&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Martin Micheelsen, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi Nick,<br><br>The very first improvement I would do would be to upgrade to an electronic ignition. Petronix has a unit for about $60 that can replace the points and condensor. They also have a blaster coil to improve the spark. If the distrubutor is well worn a new electronic Duraspark distributor for a late FE truck is a relative cheap option. MSD also makes a new billet distributor for the FE. If you get that make sure you get the newer model with vacum advance. <br><br>If you don't mind taking things a bit a part an Edelbrock Performer RPM indtake will help the breathing and shave some weight off.  A new carburator from Edelbrock, Demon or Holley will also help. Even though ambition says 750CFM a 600 - 650 CFM carb is likely plenty and will offer better fuel economy and throttle response. <br><br>If you have more money left over - Install FPA headers and a low resistance exhaust system. <br><br>All these parts can be put right back in service when you later have rebuilt the engine. <br><br>Enjoy ! </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- Martin Micheelsen, 09/12/2003
Hi Nick,

The very first improvement I would do would be to upgrade to an electronic ignition. Petronix has a unit for about $60 that can replace the points and condensor. They also have a blaster coil to improve the spark. If the distrubutor is well worn a new electronic Duraspark distributor for a late FE truck is a relative cheap option. MSD also makes a new billet distributor for the FE. If you get that make sure you get the newer model with vacum advance.

If you don't mind taking things a bit a part an Edelbrock Performer RPM indtake will help the breathing and shave some weight off. A new carburator from Edelbrock, Demon or Holley will also help. Even though ambition says 750CFM a 600 - 650 CFM carb is likely plenty and will offer better fuel economy and throttle response.

If you have more money left over - Install FPA headers and a low resistance exhaust system.

All these parts can be put right back in service when you later have rebuilt the engine.

Enjoy !
 Parts interchangeability -- Nick, 09/12/2003
Thanks for the info Martin.
Do you know parts are interchangeable or is there a book out there that has a list of cars and the parts that are interchangeable.

Also has anyone ever tried MSD 6AL before? Is that the coil? or an addition to the ignition system. How does PerTronix compare with MSD
 Rebuilding -- Nick, 09/12/2003
When is a sure sign that you need to rebuild or overhaul your engine? It runs decent but I feel like it could so much better. I know that I will need to replace the oil pan gasket and there is a header bolt that broke off and it looks like I will need to pull the engine to get to it, because the upper control arm is in the way.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18380&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Parts interchangeability</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for the info Martin.<br>Do you know parts are interchangeable or is there a book out there that has a list of cars and the parts that are interchangeable.<br><br>Also has anyone ever tried MSD 6AL before? Is that the coil? or an addition to the ignition system. How does PerTronix compare with MSD </blockquote> Parts interchangeability -- Nick, 09/12/2003
Thanks for the info Martin.
Do you know parts are interchangeable or is there a book out there that has a list of cars and the parts that are interchangeable.

Also has anyone ever tried MSD 6AL before? Is that the coil? or an addition to the ignition system. How does PerTronix compare with MSD
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18382&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Parts interchangeability</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Martin Micheelsen, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Other people on this forum know WAY more about parts interchangebility. You can try searching the forum for the info you need. There are hours worth of reading here. <br><br>The basic petronics setup just replaces the points and condensor. It will the work with a standard or improved coil. That can be combined with the MSD multispark unit. The MSD unit jolts the coil for multible bigger sparks. Personally I have the MSD distributor with the MSD multispark unit and a regular coil. That is not the most economical solution, but it sure brougt some life back to a very tired engine. <br><br>If you feel your engine is underperforming you should try to narrow down the variables. That is why I suggested starting with the ignition, since that is relatively inexpensive and does not get to the internals of the engine. A compression check is very low cost (buy the tool). If you have reliable spark and reasonable compression the carburator is next in line for a look over. If you have spark, compression and the fuel is delivered right, then you should have pretty good performance.  </blockquote> RE: Parts interchangeability -- Martin Micheelsen, 09/12/2003
Other people on this forum know WAY more about parts interchangebility. You can try searching the forum for the info you need. There are hours worth of reading here.

The basic petronics setup just replaces the points and condensor. It will the work with a standard or improved coil. That can be combined with the MSD multispark unit. The MSD unit jolts the coil for multible bigger sparks. Personally I have the MSD distributor with the MSD multispark unit and a regular coil. That is not the most economical solution, but it sure brougt some life back to a very tired engine.

If you feel your engine is underperforming you should try to narrow down the variables. That is why I suggested starting with the ignition, since that is relatively inexpensive and does not get to the internals of the engine. A compression check is very low cost (buy the tool). If you have reliable spark and reasonable compression the carburator is next in line for a look over. If you have spark, compression and the fuel is delivered right, then you should have pretty good performance.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18384&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Performance</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Well I just rebuilt the carb it runs a little smoother now, but still doesn't have that "umphh". Also after the carb rebuild, the tranny doesnt want to downshift from 3 to 2. Before it would downshift to 2nd anywhere from 40 MPH to 75 MPH. Now with WOT it wont donwshift. Now if I am going under 30 and in 2nd gear the tranny will downshift to first. It will however shift if I manually shift the gear selector.<br>Anyhow, I will do a compression check, and the ignition and get back with results, hopefully that will take care of the problem. </blockquote> Performance -- Nick, 09/12/2003
Well I just rebuilt the carb it runs a little smoother now, but still doesn't have that "umphh". Also after the carb rebuild, the tranny doesnt want to downshift from 3 to 2. Before it would downshift to 2nd anywhere from 40 MPH to 75 MPH. Now with WOT it wont donwshift. Now if I am going under 30 and in 2nd gear the tranny will downshift to first. It will however shift if I manually shift the gear selector.
Anyhow, I will do a compression check, and the ignition and get back with results, hopefully that will take care of the problem.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18385&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: down shifting</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Martin Micheelsen, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The lack of downshifting sounds like the vacum hose to the modulator on the transmission isn't connected anymore.  </blockquote> RE: down shifting -- Martin Micheelsen, 09/12/2003
The lack of downshifting sounds like the vacum hose to the modulator on the transmission isn't connected anymore.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18391&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: down shifting</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ok I noticed there was a vacuum hose that was disconected but I couldnt tell where it went? Thanks. Also do you know where I can get a vacuum diagram. I have the chiltons manual and they have several diagrams but not one specific to my setup 390 2bbl.<br>Thanks for all your help. </blockquote> RE: down shifting -- Nick, 09/12/2003
Ok I noticed there was a vacuum hose that was disconected but I couldnt tell where it went? Thanks. Also do you know where I can get a vacuum diagram. I have the chiltons manual and they have several diagrams but not one specific to my setup 390 2bbl.
Thanks for all your help.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=23712&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>parts swap</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jim gladden, <i>01/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>which 427 intakes mate with 390 gt heads </blockquote> parts swap -- jim gladden, 01/09/2005
which 427 intakes mate with 390 gt heads
 RE: parts swap -- c newman, 01/09/2005
Not the tunnel port & high riser. Only the low riser, & medium riser will match up.
 RE: Parts interchangeability -- giacamo, 09/12/2003
msd workes great trust me.it is all i run and i normely triger it with just the points.but make shur you unhook the condenser.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24773&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>04/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>word of warning,i had 2 mellings hv57 oil pumpumps crack at the lower bolt hole on the pick up tube side,one was in service,one cracked at 20 ft lbs,out of the box,they are realy thin at the lower bolt hole,right now i'm looking for a different vendor that supplies the thicker  oil pump insides,and higher pressure than the stock junk pump,and not an alumimum housing(i had seen too many dump valves,chaf and sieze up in them) </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- walt, 04/29/2005
word of warning,i had 2 mellings hv57 oil pumpumps crack at the lower bolt hole on the pick up tube side,one was in service,one cracked at 20 ft lbs,out of the box,they are realy thin at the lower bolt hole,right now i'm looking for a different vendor that supplies the thicker oil pump insides,and higher pressure than the stock junk pump,and not an alumimum housing(i had seen too many dump valves,chaf and sieze up in them)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24781&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>04/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>walt you must of had two soft cast pumps i,v ran alot of melling pumps never had that problem,i tork by feal?on the pumps. maybe lucky? </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- giacamo, 04/29/2005
walt you must of had two soft cast pumps i,v ran alot of melling pumps never had that problem,i tork by feal?on the pumps. maybe lucky?
 RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- walt, 04/29/2005
i've never had this prob before with the pumps,,ieven checked that the bolts didn't have too much of a shoulder in the non threaded area below the bolt head
 RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- walt, 04/29/2005
for better oiling.used the LATE model oil filter adaptor,modify your pad gasket to fit the larger passages of the adaptor.and how to reconize the adaptor,it has no sguare nobs on the outer area on the adaptor,the early one have the two nobs about 45 degrees apart,facing away from the block,and small passages,the late one casting number is C8AE-6881-A i also modify the passages on the block to smooth out the passages ,those two 90 degree bends don't help oiling,i also match the main bearing oil hole to the bearing hole,wich will need a high volume pump,and if you feel brave,you can ream the oil galleis from the pump,and center to the 427 size,i never had an oiling prob at 7000rpm+
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18387&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>nick the best parts book i have found ishow to rebild your big block ford by steve christ. hpbooks#708 and the best streat cam i have ever ran isthe mod 265 comp cam and maching springs not the 365my mistake and 10.5 compression 4V pistones i have found if you wount to make power you have to change the slugs </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- giacamo, 09/12/2003
nick the best parts book i have found ishow to rebild your big block ford by steve christ. hpbooks#708 and the best streat cam i have ever ran isthe mod 265 comp cam and maching springs not the 365my mistake and 10.5 compression 4V pistones i have found if you wount to make power you have to change the slugs
 Pistons -- Nick, 09/12/2003
Right now with everything stock the book says I am running 9.5 compression. How do the pistons alter the compression ratio? I havent opened her up yet, but doesnt the 2bbl 390 only have 2 valves per cyl? Also What are the slugs? I am fairly new at rebulding engines and I dont know all the tech talk yet. What are the slugs?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18392&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Nick, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Whats the deal with cast, forged, hypereutectic pistons? Whats the best (economically) and who makes them? <br>Also when installing the 365 cam and springs are those direct fit or will any adjustments/ machining be necessary?<br>Thanks again for the info. </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- Nick, 09/12/2003
Whats the deal with cast, forged, hypereutectic pistons? Whats the best (economically) and who makes them?
Also when installing the 365 cam and springs are those direct fit or will any adjustments/ machining be necessary?
Thanks again for the info.
 RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- giacamo, 09/14/2003
the 265 comp cam is a drop in cam and springs nead no spring seat cutting .i have ran this cam in two pickups and a cyclone. in the cyclone i also instaled one pice spring retainers.and hardened pushrods.i push the cyclone very hard on the streat.slugs ar just pistones.i normely run cast pistones and never had a piston fail me.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18404&Reply=18369><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>09/14/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>the 4v pistones are flat tops with valve cuts the 2v pistones are dished and lower compressin </blockquote> RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- giacamo, 09/14/2003
the 4v pistones are flat tops with valve cuts the 2v pistones are dished and lower compressin
 RE: New FE owner. Basic stuff. -- Allen, 09/16/2003
I just rebuilt my 390 in my 67 Galaxie over the winter/spring and this is what my combo has:
Edelbrock 650 vacuum secondaries
Edelbrock 427 intake (don't know if they still make this)
Hooker Super Comp headers
Pertronix ignitor module
MSD 6AL box
MSD blaster 2 coil
Sterling Hypereutectic pistons .030 over
Comp Cams 268H cam with the valve springs they recommend
Milodon 7 quart pan
HV oil pump
other minor stuff

This car seems to make decent power, but the one thing holding me back for now is the rear gears (still stock 2.79 or something like that). I only really drive it on the weekends since I live in Chicago, but my work seems to think it is better to ship me out to DC, so I still only have like 500 miles on the rebuild. When I get at least 800-1000 miles on it I will start really putting the pedal to the metal. If I were doing this for cheap, the things I would do first are 4 barrel carb and intake, cam, then headers, then MSD ignition. But building any car isn't cheap so watch out as it will snowball on you.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18364&Reply=18364><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 distributor</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave, <i>09/10/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1976 390, im trying to get the set pin out of the gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft ....any sugestions? </blockquote> 390 distributor -- Dave, 09/10/2003
I have a 1976 390, im trying to get the set pin out of the gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft ....any sugestions?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18366&Reply=18364><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 distributor</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave, <i>09/11/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ok I got the pins out. But the gear will not come off. Any sugestions? </blockquote> RE: 390 distributor -- Dave, 09/11/2003
Ok I got the pins out. But the gear will not come off. Any sugestions?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18368&Reply=18364><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>You really should use a press for this operation. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/11/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> You really should use a press for this operation. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/11/2003
n/m
 RE: You really should use a press for this operation. [n/m] -- Dave, 09/11/2003
Thanks, a freind told me to use a puller. It worked ok. Thanks for your responce.
 Remember to set distance corrrectly for new gear -- Larry, 09/12/2003
see dimensions here

http://groups.msn.com/64Fairlane/64fairlane.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=45
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18351&Reply=18351><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>1st fire up</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Scott, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>  I am having problems getting my freshly rebuilt 390 to fire-up. I have primed the oil pump, got the #1 Piston at Top Dead Center, filled the carb w/ a little gas, and set to distributor to fire on the # 1 cylinder.  I have spark going to the plugs.  I tried to start it several days ago and it sounded like it wanted to start but didn't.  The machine shop told me not to crank and crank.... so I walked away from it.  Tonight i tried again and a flame shot_out_of the carb.  I called it quits.  Am i doing something wrong? </blockquote> 1st fire up -- Scott, 09/09/2003
I am having problems getting my freshly rebuilt 390 to fire-up. I have primed the oil pump, got the #1 Piston at Top Dead Center, filled the carb w/ a little gas, and set to distributor to fire on the # 1 cylinder. I have spark going to the plugs. I tried to start it several days ago and it sounded like it wanted to start but didn't. The machine shop told me not to crank and crank.... so I walked away from it. Tonight i tried again and a flame shot_out_of the carb. I called it quits. Am i doing something wrong?
 Sounds like timing or firing order. -- Dave Shoe, 09/09/2003
Make sure the firing order is right. Cyls 1-4 are on passenger side, 5-8 on drivers side. Make sure cap is wired in correct direction. Make sure the #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. Both valves will be closed on the compression stroke.

Your shop is right about cranking. The starter will overheat, as it's not rated for continual duiy and it will bake the windings to death if you don't let it sit for a half hour between bursts. There is insufficient heat dissipation designed into the compact starter package. For continual duty, the starter would be larger and contain fans and vents.

I suspect your engine is just about ready to fire up and run.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18363&Reply=18351><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 1st fire up</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>09/10/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>did you know tdc mark also is at exaust tdc. </blockquote> RE: 1st fire up -- giacamo, 09/10/2003
did you know tdc mark also is at exaust tdc.
 RE: 1st fire up -- Gregory Westphall, 09/11/2003
I had the sdame problem on my first fire up many years ago. I found out I had inadvertently wired the firing order on the distributor cap clockwise instead of counter clock wise. Stupid mistake. I was in a hurry. Lots of backfiring. It is either this or you are 180 degreee off with your firing order. Make sure both valves are closed at TDC
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18340&Reply=18340><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>shelby tachometer</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>fred Edwards, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>i need to know if anyone has ever hooked up an MSD ignition up to the factory tach. I have the 6Al box, blaster 2 coil,MSD distributor, and even the MSd tach adapter. i have also had my tach rebuilt just to make sure. i have the ground and power, but i do not have the signal coming from my tach. if anyone could drop me some hints that would be great. </blockquote> shelby tachometer -- fred Edwards, 09/09/2003
i need to know if anyone has ever hooked up an MSD ignition up to the factory tach. I have the 6Al box, blaster 2 coil,MSD distributor, and even the MSd tach adapter. i have also had my tach rebuilt just to make sure. i have the ground and power, but i do not have the signal coming from my tach. if anyone could drop me some hints that would be great.
 You'll need one of their 'tach adapters', as explained at... -- Mr F, 09/09/2003
Overview:
http://www.tognottisautoworld.com/Products/MSD/9495.asp

Instructions for p/n 8910:
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8910_tach_adapter.pdf

Instructions for p/n 8920:
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8920_tach_adpater.pdf
 RE: shelby tachometer -- Paul Kohmescher, 04/27/2005
Fred-I've got the same problem! Maybe you can help me out now! I've updated my KR's electronics with a Crane "Hi-6" unit(= to MSD's 6AL)/the later Ford magnetic pickup distributor "guts"/and have even bought and installed the MSD tach adaptor unit/but my tach still won't work/although the engine runs great! I'm afraid to send my tach off for a costly rebuild if the problem isn't in the tach itself. I've tried both recommended ways of wiring up the unit-still no go. Paul K
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18339&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE intake id</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>vonbimas67, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hoping someone may be able to tell me what intake I have. this is a FE intake single 4 barrel factory ford. Every book I have dosen't list it. Number is C6AE9425-H<br>Appreciate any help Thanks </blockquote> FE intake id -- vonbimas67, 09/08/2003
Hoping someone may be able to tell me what intake I have. this is a FE intake single 4 barrel factory ford. Every book I have dosen't list it. Number is C6AE9425-H
Appreciate any help Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18341&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>1966 Police aluminum 4V</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>It is just like the 1967- 68 version except the 1966 vesion still used the large diameter thermostat.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> 1966 Police aluminum 4V -- Royce Peterson, 09/09/2003
It is just like the 1967- 68 version except the 1966 vesion still used the large diameter thermostat.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18343&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 1966 Police aluminum 4V</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>vonbimas67, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>What I can't seem to match is the serial number with any records I have seems the H is used for most high riser engines could this manifold be one of them? </blockquote> RE: 1966 Police aluminum 4V -- vonbimas67, 09/09/2003
What I can't seem to match is the serial number with any records I have seems the H is used for most high riser engines could this manifold be one of them?
 No -- Royce Peterson, 09/09/2003
That manifold has Medium Riser style ports but was most commonly found mated to Low Riser style heads.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18346&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>'Suffix' (final letter) in cast identifiers is never engine-specific.[n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> 'Suffix' (final letter) in cast identifiers is never engine-specific.[n/m] -- Mr F, 09/09/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18353&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>427 manifold</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>vonbimas67, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>From all the info I can find all the intakes that were for the 427 high riser motor ended with the letter H in serial number. This one definately is not one that I can find anywere listed as med riser ect. </blockquote> 427 manifold -- vonbimas67, 09/09/2003
From all the info I can find all the intakes that were for the 427 high riser motor ended with the letter H in serial number. This one definately is not one that I can find anywere listed as med riser ect.
 Even if true, its no more than an interesting coincidence. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/10/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18355&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>The HR was not being developed in 1966.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>09/10/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Your info on the -h suffix is wrong.  It does not indicate a HR aplication.<br><br>Ford had quit developing the HR long before 1966, focusing instead on Cammer, MR, and Tunneport versions of the 427 engine for 1966.  You won't find any HR-specific parts with 1966 era casting numbers.<br><br>Beware: FE Part number lists in books tend to be seriously flawed in most cases.  The racing 427 engines are often accurately documented, but standard production casting numbers are almost universally messed up for FEs.  There is some logic to the mess, but I won't venture that direction right now.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> The HR was not being developed in 1966. -- Dave Shoe, 09/10/2003
Your info on the -h suffix is wrong. It does not indicate a HR aplication.

Ford had quit developing the HR long before 1966, focusing instead on Cammer, MR, and Tunneport versions of the 427 engine for 1966. You won't find any HR-specific parts with 1966 era casting numbers.

Beware: FE Part number lists in books tend to be seriously flawed in most cases. The racing 427 engines are often accurately documented, but standard production casting numbers are almost universally messed up for FEs. There is some logic to the mess, but I won't venture that direction right now.

Shoe.
 RE: The HR was not being developed in 1966. -- vonbimas67, 09/10/2003
Appreciate the input just seems strange I can't locate this number on any other references. We know its for a FE engine!!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25034&Reply=18339><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: FE intake id</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ray, <i>05/28/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The one I did see has a 2nd thermostat hole in the rear of the manifold.  Does this indicate a MARINE engine manifold? </blockquote> RE: FE intake id -- ray, 05/28/2005
The one I did see has a 2nd thermostat hole in the rear of the manifold. Does this indicate a MARINE engine manifold?
 RE: FE intake id -- walt, 05/29/2005
that is the pvc or road draft tube access on the back of the manifold
 RE: FE intake id -- Del, 06/04/2005
If you are interested in selling the intake manifold e-mail me at Burnh9@aol.com
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18333&Reply=18333><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>harland sharpe rockers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>390 ranger, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am running harland sharpe rockers and am looking to upgrade to aftermarket end supports and pedestals.  i was informed dove end stands will not work without machining.  I was curious if the FPP shaftstands and end stands will work with them. </blockquote> harland sharpe rockers -- 390 ranger, 09/08/2003
I am running harland sharpe rockers and am looking to upgrade to aftermarket end supports and pedestals. i was informed dove end stands will not work without machining. I was curious if the FPP shaftstands and end stands will work with them.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18342&Reply=18333><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FPP stands / supports</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The FPP support stands will fit under any FE valve cover with no machining required. I still can't figure why Dove can't make theirs work straight out of the box like every other brand.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> FPP stands / supports -- Royce Peterson, 09/09/2003
The FPP support stands will fit under any FE valve cover with no machining required. I still can't figure why Dove can't make theirs work straight out of the box like every other brand.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18359&Reply=18333><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>royce any info on prcision oil pump stands</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>390ranger, <i>09/10/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>thanks for the input Royce.  I was also looking into the precision oil pump stands any info or opinions are welcome. </blockquote> royce any info on prcision oil pump stands -- 390ranger, 09/10/2003
thanks for the input Royce. I was also looking into the precision oil pump stands any info or opinions are welcome.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18376&Reply=18333><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: royce any info on prcision oil pump stands</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>they worked well for me, install was a whole 45 minutes, including solid soacers, have to be shimmed for alignment.<br><br>I can send you some pictures, can't seem to crop them right to get them to post here.<br><br> </blockquote> RE: royce any info on prcision oil pump stands -- Charlie, 09/12/2003
they worked well for me, install was a whole 45 minutes, including solid soacers, have to be shimmed for alignment.

I can send you some pictures, can't seem to crop them right to get them to post here.

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18383&Reply=18333><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Doug the pump builder</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/12/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Doug is the machinist who originally made them for Ford Power Parts. Now he has his own business. They are excellent and Doug builds a great oil pump too.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Doug the pump builder -- Royce Peterson, 09/12/2003
Doug is the machinist who originally made them for Ford Power Parts. Now he has his own business. They are excellent and Doug builds a great oil pump too.

Royce
 RE: Doug the pump builder -- 390ranger, 09/12/2003
Thanks for the replies. Charlie i would like to see the pictures

thanks BEAR
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