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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18329&Reply=18329><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>john, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>i just purchased a 1992 ford mustang lx<br>everything points to being a 4cyl.. but has 8 plugs..  did they use a second set of plugs to burn off excess fuel?  or is this really an 8 cyl.<br>only one exhaust manifold..<br>thanks. </blockquote> engine -- john, 09/08/2003
i just purchased a 1992 ford mustang lx
everything points to being a 4cyl.. but has 8 plugs.. did they use a second set of plugs to burn off excess fuel? or is this really an 8 cyl.
only one exhaust manifold..
thanks.
 This forum is for the FE product only -- james, 09/08/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18331&Reply=18329><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>My bad. Pardon my blooper</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>james, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> My bad. Pardon my blooper -- james, 09/08/2003
n/m
 Here's a link to the big forum. -- Dave Shoe, 09/08/2003
You want answers, this place has it:

http://www.fomoco.com/forummain/

Shoe.
 Better still, here's a forum specializing in late-model 'Stangs... -- Mr F, 09/09/2003
Forums at Corral.net

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18327&Reply=18327><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Water pump bolts & fittings</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I posted this over in the&nbsp;<A 
href="http://fomoco.com/mustang-forum">Classic Mustang Forum&nbsp;</A> but I 
realized I should have done so here.....</P>
<P>Hi all, need your help...</P>
<P>1) I'm in middle of putting on new pump. Problem is I forgot to make note of 
where the bolts go when I took off the old one. The new pump (carter) has 4 
bolts (68 Stang, 390)... 3 are similar and one is black &amp; shorter. I don't 
know which bolt hole the black one goes in??</P>
<P>2) The fitting on the water pump for the heater hose is a bear to get off my 
old pump. I'm worried I tightened it?? Anyone know which way to unscrew?? 
standing in front of car ..is it counterclockwise or clockwise to unscrew the 
fitting? </P>
<P>Thank you!</P></blockquote> Water pump bolts & fittings -- Patrick, 09/08/2003
I posted this over in the Classic Mustang Forum  but I realized I should have done so here.....

Hi all, need your help...

1) I'm in middle of putting on new pump. Problem is I forgot to make note of where the bolts go when I took off the old one. The new pump (carter) has 4 bolts (68 Stang, 390)... 3 are similar and one is black & shorter. I don't know which bolt hole the black one goes in??

2) The fitting on the water pump for the heater hose is a bear to get off my old pump. I'm worried I tightened it?? Anyone know which way to unscrew?? standing in front of car ..is it counterclockwise or clockwise to unscrew the fitting?

Thank you!

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18332&Reply=18327><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Lefty Loosey / Righty Tighty rule explained......</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Clockwise = Tighter<br>CCW = Looser<br><br> </blockquote> Lefty Loosey / Righty Tighty rule explained...... -- Royce Peterson, 09/08/2003
Clockwise = Tighter
CCW = Looser

 RE: Lefty Loosey / Righty Tighty rule explained...... -- Patrick, 09/09/2003
Thank you Royce....
hey, any idea about the water pump bolts??
 That's ACW ('anti-clockwise'), for those in the UK. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/09/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18354&Reply=18327><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Water pump bolts & fittings</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob T, <i>09/09/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The short bolt goes in the passenger side lower hole on the pump....Bob T. </blockquote> RE: Water pump bolts & fittings -- Bob T, 09/09/2003
The short bolt goes in the passenger side lower hole on the pump....Bob T.
 RE: Water pump bolts & fittings -- Patrickm, 09/10/2003
your the best Bob...I'm doing the install now. Thanks a bunch!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18326&Reply=18326><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>vapor lock</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 69 GT500 that runs great until I drive 20/ 30 minutes and the carb gets heat soaked and won't idle, is very hard to re-start. I know I could run a cooler can for the gas line but it's a show car and I need to keep it original looking. Any advice on carb spacers (has to be same thickness as original so the ram air seal still fits).Any other suggestions would be greatly  appreciated. </blockquote> vapor lock -- Dave, 09/08/2003
I have a 69 GT500 that runs great until I drive 20/ 30 minutes and the carb gets heat soaked and won't idle, is very hard to re-start. I know I could run a cooler can for the gas line but it's a show car and I need to keep it original looking. Any advice on carb spacers (has to be same thickness as original so the ram air seal still fits).Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18328&Reply=18326><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>May I assume the engine bay would smell flooded...or not? [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> May I assume the engine bay would smell flooded...or not? [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/08/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18416&Reply=18326><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: May I assume the engine bay would smell flooded...or not? [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave, <i>09/17/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>It does not. I noticed the gas line needs to be moved to the other side of the coil. It now runs between the coil and the drivers side valve cover. I assume it's picking up heat from the engine.  </blockquote> RE: May I assume the engine bay would smell flooded...or not? [n/m] -- Dave, 09/17/2003
It does not. I noticed the gas line needs to be moved to the other side of the coil. It now runs between the coil and the drivers side valve cover. I assume it's picking up heat from the engine.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18419&Reply=18326><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Is the stock carb spacer (0.25" T; phenolic) still there?[n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>09/18/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Is the stock carb spacer (0.25" T; phenolic) still there?[n/m] -- Mr F, 09/18/2003
n/m
 RE: Is the stock carb spacer (0.25" T; phenolic) still there?[n/m] -- Dave, 09/23/2003
Yes it is. Any ideas?
 Yes - fuel inlet tube should be kept short, straight & elevated. [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/18/2003
n/m
 RE: May I assume the engine bay would smell flooded...or not? [n/m] -- Dave, 09/23/2003
It does not smell flooded. That is what also puzzeling. The idle just falls off and dies.
 RE: vapor lock -- giacamo, 09/18/2003
check your exaust heat valve it may be stuck and heating up your intake making your carb boil over
 RE: vapor lock -- CHRISTIAn, 10/05/2003
Sounds alot like my 67 gt 500's problem but it was a defective coil. This was after radiator, spacer between carb/intake, thermostat, and insulation around the fuel lines were examined/replaced. Good luck
christian.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18321&Reply=18321><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Will this 351 C6 fit a 67 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve, <i>09/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a C6 that used to be on my 351 cleveland, does anybody know if a 1967 390 will bolt up to it, or will I need a different bellhousing pattern?  Thanks </blockquote> Will this 351 C6 fit a 67 390 -- Steve, 09/07/2003
I have a C6 that used to be on my 351 cleveland, does anybody know if a 1967 390 will bolt up to it, or will I need a different bellhousing pattern? Thanks
 Most tranny places... -- james, 09/07/2003
know this one. Every tranny rebuild place in the book has a book that tells them all that. Just call one and see what he has to say.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18324&Reply=18321><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Nope.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>09/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The 351C case is a popular truck tranny, being found in 300-6, 302, and 351W truck applications.<br><br>The FE version of the C6 only fits the FE.<br><br>Fortunately, these trannies remain readily available used in automotive newspapers for about $75.00 to $100.00, a little more if you go to a salvage yard.  Look in 1968-76 2WD pickup trucks for a tranny that'll often drop right into a Fairlane or Mustang, as long as the shift lever and downshift is swapped out or adapted.  Beware - some truck C6s have a short tailshaft stub that looks nothing like the car version of the tailshaft.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Nope. -- Dave Shoe, 09/07/2003
The 351C case is a popular truck tranny, being found in 300-6, 302, and 351W truck applications.

The FE version of the C6 only fits the FE.

Fortunately, these trannies remain readily available used in automotive newspapers for about $75.00 to $100.00, a little more if you go to a salvage yard. Look in 1968-76 2WD pickup trucks for a tranny that'll often drop right into a Fairlane or Mustang, as long as the shift lever and downshift is swapped out or adapted. Beware - some truck C6s have a short tailshaft stub that looks nothing like the car version of the tailshaft.

Shoe.
 RE: Nope. -- steve, 09/10/2003
Thanks for the info. I was afraid of that.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18320&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 oil pressure</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim Hartford, <i>09/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>It seems there have been a few questions about 390 oil pressure.  Just had the 390 in my 64 t-bird rebuilt. All new parts (seals, rings, bearings, etc). The mechanic installed an RV cam to boost the power. The engine now shows very low oil pressure at idle on the stock guage. Starts out about middle of guage and then drops to just above low mark (in the safe zone) when warm. Increases somewhat with higher RPMs. Currently running 15-50 weight synthetic oil. Oil pump is new stock type. Before rebuild, this same engine tended to have very low oil pressure, but now is worse. Put alot of money into rebuild and don't want to "blow it" !   Any help is greatly appreciated. </blockquote> 390 oil pressure -- Tim Hartford, 09/07/2003
It seems there have been a few questions about 390 oil pressure. Just had the 390 in my 64 t-bird rebuilt. All new parts (seals, rings, bearings, etc). The mechanic installed an RV cam to boost the power. The engine now shows very low oil pressure at idle on the stock guage. Starts out about middle of guage and then drops to just above low mark (in the safe zone) when warm. Increases somewhat with higher RPMs. Currently running 15-50 weight synthetic oil. Oil pump is new stock type. Before rebuild, this same engine tended to have very low oil pressure, but now is worse. Put alot of money into rebuild and don't want to "blow it" ! Any help is greatly appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18323&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I will be shot at dawn for this..</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>james, <i>09/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Fe engines just show low oil pressure. It is one of the natures of the "beast". If the temp gauge is ok and the motor isn't making any weird noises, I would just drive the thing. Watching the oil gauge will drive you crazy on this engine family. You are not the only one with this compaint. </blockquote> I will be shot at dawn for this.. -- james, 09/07/2003
Fe engines just show low oil pressure. It is one of the natures of the "beast". If the temp gauge is ok and the motor isn't making any weird noises, I would just drive the thing. Watching the oil gauge will drive you crazy on this engine family. You are not the only one with this compaint.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18325&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: I will be shot at dawn for this..</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Travis Miller, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>BANG.  You just got shot.  <br><br>A high volume oil pump should be used when rebuilding an FE.  If the rebuild did not include one, have the engine builder drop the oil pan and replace the oil pump with a high volume one.  Notice that I did not say a high pressure oil pump.  I said a high volume oil pump.  A high volume oil pump puts more oil volume thru the system filling bearing clearances better.  <br><br>Believe me that this works.  Last year I had low pressure on a customers fresh rebuild.  I had used a standard oil pump thinking that since the crank was turned, everything would be fine.  The machine shop added extra clearance thinking it was to be a street/strip engine.  Sure enough it had low pressure when it warmed up.  I just bit the bullet and dropped the pan.  The high volume oil pump cured the problem and the engine still holds good oil pressure today, even at idle.<br><br>Do not let your rebuilder talk you out of changing to a high volume oil pump.  If he tries to, he is just trying to keep from doing the extra work that it will take to cure the problem.        </blockquote> RE: I will be shot at dawn for this.. -- Travis Miller, 09/08/2003
BANG. You just got shot.

A high volume oil pump should be used when rebuilding an FE. If the rebuild did not include one, have the engine builder drop the oil pan and replace the oil pump with a high volume one. Notice that I did not say a high pressure oil pump. I said a high volume oil pump. A high volume oil pump puts more oil volume thru the system filling bearing clearances better.

Believe me that this works. Last year I had low pressure on a customers fresh rebuild. I had used a standard oil pump thinking that since the crank was turned, everything would be fine. The machine shop added extra clearance thinking it was to be a street/strip engine. Sure enough it had low pressure when it warmed up. I just bit the bullet and dropped the pan. The high volume oil pump cured the problem and the engine still holds good oil pressure today, even at idle.

Do not let your rebuilder talk you out of changing to a high volume oil pump. If he tries to, he is just trying to keep from doing the extra work that it will take to cure the problem.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18334&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Hi pressure versus Hi volume</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>james, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I called the engineering department at Melling and they told me that a Hi pressure pump is recomended on the street and a hi volume pump is for the strip. I was told that a high volume pumps will empty the pan and cavitate the oiling system on any kind of extended trip. A hi pressure pump is not prone to doing this making it a better choice for the street.<br><br> I am curious about how many of us FE crusaders are running the high volume pumps without any trouble and how many of us are running the Hi pressure pumps without any trouble. <br><br>Royce Peterson explained the differences between them one time but I do not recall what his research notes were on this subject. I am hoping he will re-explain it and his findings on which is the appropriate application. Knowing Royce, he will have documentation to back up what he says. </blockquote> Hi pressure versus Hi volume -- james, 09/08/2003
I called the engineering department at Melling and they told me that a Hi pressure pump is recomended on the street and a hi volume pump is for the strip. I was told that a high volume pumps will empty the pan and cavitate the oiling system on any kind of extended trip. A hi pressure pump is not prone to doing this making it a better choice for the street.

I am curious about how many of us FE crusaders are running the high volume pumps without any trouble and how many of us are running the Hi pressure pumps without any trouble.

Royce Peterson explained the differences between them one time but I do not recall what his research notes were on this subject. I am hoping he will re-explain it and his findings on which is the appropriate application. Knowing Royce, he will have documentation to back up what he says.
 RE: Hi pressure versus Hi volume -- Tim Hartford, 09/08/2003
thanks a million for the info. I am sure my rebuilder will be willing to make the switch for me. Question; where to get the the high pressure oil pump? I am fairly new to this, and have gotten all parts until now thru the
T-bird parts houses which only seem to sell stock parts.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18337&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 oil pressure</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>09/08/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>the only thing i have found a hi press pump to do is trash out the cam and dist gear! but i have good luck with melling hi vol pumps. </blockquote> RE: 390 oil pressure -- giacamo, 09/08/2003
the only thing i have found a hi press pump to do is trash out the cam and dist gear! but i have good luck with melling hi vol pumps.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18534&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I am curious also  hi pressure or hi volume</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>steve, <i>10/03/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am rebuilding my 390 now and if I was ever in a good place to replace the oil pump, it is now. What was the verdict? High volume or high pressure? Mine will be a street car mainly a daily driver, but maybe 4 times a year taking it out to the track to see what she does. </blockquote> I am curious also hi pressure or hi volume -- steve, 10/03/2003
I am rebuilding my 390 now and if I was ever in a good place to replace the oil pump, it is now. What was the verdict? High volume or high pressure? Mine will be a street car mainly a daily driver, but maybe 4 times a year taking it out to the track to see what she does.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18553&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: I am curious also  hi pressure or hi volume</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>10/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>hi vol not hi pres/ for some reason hi pres, pumps tend to trash out the oilpump drive gear and cam gear.but melling hi vol pumps have given me good service.thear are probley places for hpress pumps but i have not found them. </blockquote> RE: I am curious also hi pressure or hi volume -- giacamo, 10/04/2003
hi vol not hi pres/ for some reason hi pres, pumps tend to trash out the oilpump drive gear and cam gear.but melling hi vol pumps have given me good service.thear are probley places for hpress pumps but i have not found them.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18557&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: I am curious also  hi pressure or hi volume</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve, <i>10/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for the info. I am almost done with the rebuild and am glad I caught this post before I was done. </blockquote> RE: I am curious also hi pressure or hi volume -- Steve, 10/04/2003
Thanks for the info. I am almost done with the rebuild and am glad I caught this post before I was done.
 RE: I am curious also hi pressure or hi volume -- BrentP, 10/07/2003
Its a pretty good idea to use a high strength oil pump drive shaft when using high volume pumps. I have seen more than one twisted/broken shaft from using high volume pumps. Summit carries ARP shaft for some $20 or so and not a bad investment.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18598&Reply=18320><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 oil pressure</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>allan, <i>10/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>You said you are getting this reading from the guage in the car. I've got a 65 Tbird that reads low at idle on the guage but there are no other indications that the pressure is low. (no lifter clatter or other noise). I'm more suspicious that the guage is just not accurate at lower rpm. The oil pressure guage is driven by a constant voltage regulator that also drives the fuel guage and temp guage. This little regulator may not have the capacity to accurately drive the the guages at low RPM when the input voltage may be lower. As soon as I increase the RPM just slightly the oil pressure reading increases immediately. It seems like this may be an indication that the voltage regulator may be kicking in the alternator voltage rather than just the battery voltage. Just a theory at this point, but thought I'd pass this along for comment. </blockquote> RE: 390 oil pressure -- allan, 10/07/2003
You said you are getting this reading from the guage in the car. I've got a 65 Tbird that reads low at idle on the guage but there are no other indications that the pressure is low. (no lifter clatter or other noise). I'm more suspicious that the guage is just not accurate at lower rpm. The oil pressure guage is driven by a constant voltage regulator that also drives the fuel guage and temp guage. This little regulator may not have the capacity to accurately drive the the guages at low RPM when the input voltage may be lower. As soon as I increase the RPM just slightly the oil pressure reading increases immediately. It seems like this may be an indication that the voltage regulator may be kicking in the alternator voltage rather than just the battery voltage. Just a theory at this point, but thought I'd pass this along for comment.
 RE: 390 oil pressure -- Tim Hartford, 10/16/2003
Finally got my t-bird back from the mechanic. I did have him install a high-volume oil pump. The change in oil pressure is dramatic. I'm getting about 60psi at idle (measured by a seperate guage). Prior to installing the high volume pump, I had decent pressure until the engine got fully warmed up, then it would drop to almost nothing, and would not increase with higher rpms. Never any lifter noise, but still worisome considering the cost of the rebuild! I have only driven the car for one 50 mile trip since the high volume pump was installed, but during that drive, the pressure never dropped, and did increase with higher revs, ie on the freeway. If things remain this way, I will be very, very happy.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18319&Reply=18319><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>67 Fairlane</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Doug, <i>09/07/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Looking for NOS head lamp bezels or mint used need two sets.Also grill with or with out centre bars. Would like to locate a NOS 427 block bare or short assembly. <br>I have a very nice running 428SCJ engine to trade or cash.<br>Also need left or drivers NOS rear quarter. Appreciate any help with the above Thank you. </blockquote> 67 Fairlane -- Doug, 09/07/2003
Looking for NOS head lamp bezels or mint used need two sets.Also grill with or with out centre bars. Would like to locate a NOS 427 block bare or short assembly.
I have a very nice running 428SCJ engine to trade or cash.
Also need left or drivers NOS rear quarter. Appreciate any help with the above Thank you.
 Hey, Doug - be sure to try our big 'Classifieds' section... -- Mr F, 09/09/2003
Classic Ford Classifieds

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18312&Reply=18312><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>hi riser heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>lenny, <i>09/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>will hi riser heads work on 60 over 428 block?<br>freind says should, I say not.<br>help us settle this<br>thanks </blockquote> hi riser heads -- lenny, 09/06/2003
will hi riser heads work on 60 over 428 block?
freind says should, I say not.
help us settle this
thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18314&Reply=18312><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Not really.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>09/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>A sonic tester would be able to perform the checks to see whether a particular casting might be able to handle the requisite scalloping of the cylinders without damaging the block, but for the most part it's best to keep the HRs in 427 blocks.<br><br>If you feel daring, and are lucky, and the sonic results suggest there is some thick cylinder wall to play with, it might work.  Still, the HR really shines at the higher RPMS, and you should also have crossbolts to help contain the extra stresses.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Not really. -- Dave Shoe, 09/06/2003
A sonic tester would be able to perform the checks to see whether a particular casting might be able to handle the requisite scalloping of the cylinders without damaging the block, but for the most part it's best to keep the HRs in 427 blocks.

If you feel daring, and are lucky, and the sonic results suggest there is some thick cylinder wall to play with, it might work. Still, the HR really shines at the higher RPMS, and you should also have crossbolts to help contain the extra stresses.

Shoe.
 Not worth the trouble. -- Royce Peterson, 09/06/2003
You would have to permanantly disfigure the block to barely clear the intake valves. I don't think you would benefit from this, a set of Edelbrock heads or CJ heads would likely make more power.

High riser heads are actually great even at lower RPM but on a 428 the bore is going to hurt cylinder filling. Save those HR heads for a stroked 427. Or sell them to me for one of my stroked 427's!

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18310&Reply=18310><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE Oiling Mods ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Glenn, <i>09/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ok, I blew one of the plugs in the main gallery in the rear cam valley.  The bearings are shot.  Soooo, I'm stripping it all the way down and starting again.  I have a Ford engine book by HP and there are a couple of oiling mods.     One of them is to pull the rear center gallery plug and drill out the restrictor orfice to open up full flow to the rear main.  You guys think this is a good mod?  I'm pulling all the pressed plugs and installing threaded plugs anyway.<br>Glenn </blockquote> FE Oiling Mods ? -- Glenn, 09/06/2003
Ok, I blew one of the plugs in the main gallery in the rear cam valley. The bearings are shot. Soooo, I'm stripping it all the way down and starting again. I have a Ford engine book by HP and there are a couple of oiling mods. One of them is to pull the rear center gallery plug and drill out the restrictor orfice to open up full flow to the rear main. You guys think this is a good mod? I'm pulling all the pressed plugs and installing threaded plugs anyway.
Glenn
 RE: FE Oiling Mods ? -- Charlie, 09/06/2003
http://fomoco.com/ford-forum-FE/results.asp?Page=1&Max=20&Option=0&Name=on&Email=on&Key=oil%20mods
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18313&Reply=18310><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Those mods are dumb.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>09/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Any article on oiling mods that does not cover front sump oil pan issues first is the work of an amateur.  If you follow it, you are following the advice of someone who does NOT know how to properly upgrade an FE oiling system.<br><br>Personally, I believe the stock FE oiling system, with exception of the front sump pan, is basically race ready.  Anyone who claims the sideoiler was needed to fix problems with the topoiler has also read too much bad writing.  The sideoiler was developed for the Cammer.<br><br>If you want, you can perform those mods, but I'd keep looking for an article that get's to the meat of it.  Since a front sump engine can dump the oil to the rear if the car is quick enough, it's primarily important that consideration be given to a performance oil pan.  <br><br>"Sucking air" is one forum search key that might help you find info on the topic, as is "oil starvation".  When the pump draws air, the FE runs into problems.  Otherwise, the top oiler is one very efficient oiler.<br><br>Oh, the mods that are too often printed in so many places are not all bad ideas.  They're mostly just presented in an unbalanced fashion, and incorporating them as written has more often caused damage to FE engines than good.  Still, some of the ideas in some articles are plain bad.<br><br>The topoiling system performed well in NASCAR, as well as other forms of racing.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Those mods are dumb. -- Dave Shoe, 09/06/2003
Any article on oiling mods that does not cover front sump oil pan issues first is the work of an amateur. If you follow it, you are following the advice of someone who does NOT know how to properly upgrade an FE oiling system.

Personally, I believe the stock FE oiling system, with exception of the front sump pan, is basically race ready. Anyone who claims the sideoiler was needed to fix problems with the topoiler has also read too much bad writing. The sideoiler was developed for the Cammer.

If you want, you can perform those mods, but I'd keep looking for an article that get's to the meat of it. Since a front sump engine can dump the oil to the rear if the car is quick enough, it's primarily important that consideration be given to a performance oil pan.

"Sucking air" is one forum search key that might help you find info on the topic, as is "oil starvation". When the pump draws air, the FE runs into problems. Otherwise, the top oiler is one very efficient oiler.

Oh, the mods that are too often printed in so many places are not all bad ideas. They're mostly just presented in an unbalanced fashion, and incorporating them as written has more often caused damage to FE engines than good. Still, some of the ideas in some articles are plain bad.

The topoiling system performed well in NASCAR, as well as other forms of racing.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18315&Reply=18310><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Those mods are dumb.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Glenn, <i>09/06/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Charlie and Dave.  I will rethink what I'm doing.  I got too much money tied up in this engine to be experimenting.  BTW, its a balanced 390 9.25 comp with Edelbrock heads and manifold, Lunati BM II cam kit, Harland Sharp rockers, FPA headers, Mallory ignition,  Carter Comp + carb, ARP fasteners all around.  I don't need to scatter it.<br>Thanks again.<br>Glenn </blockquote> RE: Those mods are dumb. -- Glenn, 09/06/2003
Thanks Charlie and Dave. I will rethink what I'm doing. I got too much money tied up in this engine to be experimenting. BTW, its a balanced 390 9.25 comp with Edelbrock heads and manifold, Lunati BM II cam kit, Harland Sharp rockers, FPA headers, Mallory ignition, Carter Comp + carb, ARP fasteners all around. I don't need to scatter it.
Thanks again.
Glenn
 RE: Those mods are dumb. -- BarryMcLarty, 09/06/2003
Dave nailed it!I had a cj powered bracket car that ran 11:80,and was shifted at 6800 for about 175 runs between teardowns,and we had no oiling problems and very good bearing life.Ran a Moroso deep pan,high volume pump,Ford windage tray and a bit of home made baffling in the pan.Keep it basic and don"t get carried away with the trick of the week.
 RE: FE Oiling Mods ? -- giacamo, 09/08/2003
oil mods are not worth the time. the fe is a very uniform oiler. if bearing clearances are corect
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18302&Reply=18302><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Is my cam to much for my valve springs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Brandon, <i>09/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am installing an Isky mega hyd. 270 camshaft in my 390.  I need to know if the cam is too much for the heads.  The cam has .542 lift and the duration is 270 degrees and 221 at .050.  The heads are stock and I dont know what the springs are rated for.  Help!   </blockquote> Is my cam to much for my valve springs -- Brandon, 09/04/2003
I am installing an Isky mega hyd. 270 camshaft in my 390. I need to know if the cam is too much for the heads. The cam has .542 lift and the duration is 270 degrees and 221 at .050. The heads are stock and I dont know what the springs are rated for. Help!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18303&Reply=18302><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Get the spring kit for the cam or you'll be sorry!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>09/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote> </blockquote> Get the spring kit for the cam or you'll be sorry! -- Royce Peterson, 09/04/2003
 You'll need to replace the valve retainers, too. -- Dave Shoe, 09/04/2003
The stock valve retainers are a long-lasting low performance type that consume too much space for high lift applications and are too weak for stiffer springs. The valves may also need replacing, since the lock grooves are positioned for the stico retainers.

You didn't mention whether the lifters were ebing replaced. To be certain, the new cam will instantly croak with high mileage lifters, and will also stand little chance of living id the lifters have even a few miles with another cam.

A full kit is the only way to go when changing from stock to performance.

Personally, I also strongly advise rockershaft end support pedestals, to help prevent shaft flexing at the end rocker positions.

It ends up coming to a moderately hefty price, but it's a lot cheaper and more fun than putting it together and learning the high lift cam is crushing the valve seals like I did.

Shoe.

 Absolutely dont use them -- Ross, 09/04/2003
.500 is about the limit, sometimes stock can go as high as .530. However, the cost is minimal and if you stack a spring you can break off the valve and lose the whole motor.

Dont chance it, honest. Its not a spring pressure issue, its a wire diameter and max lift issue.
 RE: Is my cam to much for my valve springs -- Steve, 09/13/2003
Trust me, I learned the hard way. I dropped a valve at 6000 RPM in my 351 cleveland. I can email a picture to you of a valve shoved up into the head sideways and 3 cracks in the cylinder wall. It was a big cam with stock springs. Go for the double springs
 RE: Is my cam to much for my valve springs -- giacamo, 09/14/2003
542 lift is getting up thear almost to the point of cutting spring seats for taller springs i would strongley sugest calling isky and optaining corect spring setup.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18298&Reply=18298><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Fan selection for 68 390GT</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>09/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi all,<br><br>I went through archives..and very helpful...however I didn't quite see this question posed...<br><br>I have a flex a lite on my car when I bought, 6 blade..not sure the diameter... I am looking to replace it since i'm replacing the rad & water pump.  I'm not sure what fan from flex a lite to get...the 7 blade, or stick with 6...the reverse rotation or standard rotation...and alumimum or steel....any help out there would be great?    Also, I never had clutch on it when I bought car..should I put one on, how necessary is it?<br><br>Thanks!!   </blockquote> Fan selection for 68 390GT -- Patrick, 09/04/2003
Hi all,

I went through archives..and very helpful...however I didn't quite see this question posed...

I have a flex a lite on my car when I bought, 6 blade..not sure the diameter... I am looking to replace it since i'm replacing the rad & water pump. I'm not sure what fan from flex a lite to get...the 7 blade, or stick with 6...the reverse rotation or standard rotation...and alumimum or steel....any help out there would be great? Also, I never had clutch on it when I bought car..should I put one on, how necessary is it?

Thanks!!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18300&Reply=18298><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Flex-a-lites don't need a clutch.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>09/04/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Flex-a-lites become flat as the RPMs increase, and therefore perform the same function as a clutch.  Clutches are helpful if you have a large rigid fan blade that pumps a lot at idle (desirable on air conditioned cars), but would otherwise pump too much at highway speeds, reducing gas mileage and eating horsepower.<br><br>Most all 1960s engines are standard rotation.  Only when the serpentine belts showed up a decade later did reverse rotation become much of an issue.  All car cranks rotate clockwise, if standing in front of the car and looking rearward.  This is why the Ford 9" rear can be used in other cars, and also why trannies can be swapped.<br><br>Are you having overheating problems?  Does the gauge get hot during normal driveing?  It's notmal to peg the temp gauge when you turn off the car, but idling, rush hour, and freeway driving use should be able to handle things without showing anything on the gauge.<br><br>You'll have to tell us how your car behaves if you want any good fan suggestions.  Bigger eats horsepower, but it must be large enough to prevent overheating the engine.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Flex-a-lites don't need a clutch. -- Dave Shoe, 09/04/2003
Flex-a-lites become flat as the RPMs increase, and therefore perform the same function as a clutch. Clutches are helpful if you have a large rigid fan blade that pumps a lot at idle (desirable on air conditioned cars), but would otherwise pump too much at highway speeds, reducing gas mileage and eating horsepower.

Most all 1960s engines are standard rotation. Only when the serpentine belts showed up a decade later did reverse rotation become much of an issue. All car cranks rotate clockwise, if standing in front of the car and looking rearward. This is why the Ford 9" rear can be used in other cars, and also why trannies can be swapped.

Are you having overheating problems? Does the gauge get hot during normal driveing? It's notmal to peg the temp gauge when you turn off the car, but idling, rush hour, and freeway driving use should be able to handle things without showing anything on the gauge.

You'll have to tell us how your car behaves if you want any good fan suggestions. Bigger eats horsepower, but it must be large enough to prevent overheating the engine.

Shoe.
 RE: Flex-a-lites don't need a clutch. -- Patrick, 09/04/2003
Thanks Dave* ,

Yes, I am having overheat problems...my gauge would hit just short of the "H" when idle and move back down once moving..but not as far as down as normal.

Looking in my old rad, alot of the cores were clogged...so I figured time for a new one. The pump may be perfectly fine..but instead of taking chances...I got a new one. I guess the previous owners put a flex a lite 6 blade on it and I'm not sure if I should keep it or go with 7 blade that's when I went to Flex a lites website and noticed the many different options.



Of course none of this could sove my heat problems..but it better!!
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