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 1967 ltd/galaxie -- charles hollingsworth, 08/29/2003
hello fe fans, i have a 67 ltd that's been in the family since new. she's a z code high performance 4bbl 390. i had a machine shop/ napa auto parts do all the rebuild as i did not have the time at the time. she does not build the power like my teen years and i suspect that they just stuck in a 2bbl 390 truck cam. she runs perfect doesn't flood but smells rich with the 600 holley getting around 19mpg on the interstate with the a/c on. does anyone know what size cam came in that engine, size/ duration/ lift. i've been thinking about going with the edlebrock performer/rpm package ditching the cast iron intake.
any ideas
thanks
charles
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18256&Reply=18256><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>105 block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BarryMcLarty, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Just bought a 72 Ford1/2 ton for parts and find the block has the mirror image 105 casting on the front corner ot the block.Owner swears its a 390,but I understand this block was the service replacement part for the 428 CJ.Can any one help me out?Does this block have enough metal to bore to 4.13?Thanks </blockquote> 105 block -- BarryMcLarty, 08/28/2003
Just bought a 72 Ford1/2 ton for parts and find the block has the mirror image 105 casting on the front corner ot the block.Owner swears its a 390,but I understand this block was the service replacement part for the 428 CJ.Can any one help me out?Does this block have enough metal to bore to 4.13?Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18258&Reply=18256><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 105 block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The 105 casting number means it is an FE / or FT block cast after about 1971. They are nothing special. Any rumours to the contrary are false. Search the forum for 105 casting and see the other 1000 times this question has been asked and the answers given.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> RE: 105 block -- Royce Peterson, 08/28/2003
The 105 casting number means it is an FE / or FT block cast after about 1971. They are nothing special. Any rumours to the contrary are false. Search the forum for 105 casting and see the other 1000 times this question has been asked and the answers given.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18259&Reply=18256><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 105 block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BarryMcLarty, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I knew they were used on 391 truck engines ,so was surprised to find one in a 1/2 ton.Now I see that 105 isn"t always an indicator of a thick wall block.Guess I"ll drill bit it and see what I"ve got.Thanks </blockquote> RE: 105 block -- BarryMcLarty, 08/28/2003
I knew they were used on 391 truck engines ,so was surprised to find one in a 1/2 ton.Now I see that 105 isn"t always an indicator of a thick wall block.Guess I"ll drill bit it and see what I"ve got.Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18260&Reply=18256><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 105 block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Paul H, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I would hold on to that block.  I have turned 3 of them into std. 428s on the dragstrip with no problems.  I have a spare one now stashed.  Every 105 block that I have seen has triple main webbing in the bottom.  There is no substitute for a good sonic check though.  All of mine started out as either a 360 or 390 block in a pickup. </blockquote> RE: 105 block -- Paul H, 08/28/2003
I would hold on to that block. I have turned 3 of them into std. 428s on the dragstrip with no problems. I have a spare one now stashed. Every 105 block that I have seen has triple main webbing in the bottom. There is no substitute for a good sonic check though. All of mine started out as either a 360 or 390 block in a pickup.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18261&Reply=18256><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>They do all tend to have triple main webs.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>08/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>MCC seems to have adopted only the reinforced webbing for their castings.  Standard webbing went the way of the automotive FE - it disappeared about 1972 or 1973.<br><br>Standard 390 cylinders remained the norm for 105 era (MCC era) FE blocks, despite the the initial optimism that reinforced cranksaddle webbing provided.<br><br>361/391 FT blocks did most frequently inherit heavy cylinder jackets, though exceptions have been noted repeatedly.  Similarly, FE pickups occasionally got heavy wall cylinders, though not as often as popular publications would have you believe.<br><br>JMO,<br>Shoe. </blockquote> They do all tend to have triple main webs. -- Dave Shoe, 08/29/2003
MCC seems to have adopted only the reinforced webbing for their castings. Standard webbing went the way of the automotive FE - it disappeared about 1972 or 1973.

Standard 390 cylinders remained the norm for 105 era (MCC era) FE blocks, despite the the initial optimism that reinforced cranksaddle webbing provided.

361/391 FT blocks did most frequently inherit heavy cylinder jackets, though exceptions have been noted repeatedly. Similarly, FE pickups occasionally got heavy wall cylinders, though not as often as popular publications would have you believe.

JMO,
Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18270&Reply=18256><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: They do all tend to have triple main webs.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BarryMcLarty, <i>08/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks.It sounds like it is a better block to begin with then the 66 390 block I have.I will have it sonic checked,and maybe I"ll get lucky and can go to 4.13. </blockquote> RE: They do all tend to have triple main webs. -- BarryMcLarty, 08/30/2003
Thanks.It sounds like it is a better block to begin with then the 66 390 block I have.I will have it sonic checked,and maybe I"ll get lucky and can go to 4.13.
 RE: They do all tend to have triple main webs. -- Tim P., 01/04/2004
I Have A 105 In My Truck The Guy I Purchase It From Said It Was A 360. My Book Says It Has Heavy webbing And Steel Crank, But The Nose Is Larger Than FE, Crank Noses. Havent Torn It Down Yet To See What It is yet. Tim.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18252&Reply=18252><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>trans speedo gears</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rory, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>On my 1980 E-150 I changed the rear axle ratio from 3:00 to 3:50. So now I need to change the transmission [ rug 4spd od ] speedo gear. I think these little plastic gears are colour coded so which should I get or how many gear teeth does it need for the speedometer to work correctly.<br> Thanks for any assistance !!<br>     Rory </blockquote> trans speedo gears -- Rory, 08/28/2003
On my 1980 E-150 I changed the rear axle ratio from 3:00 to 3:50. So now I need to change the transmission [ rug 4spd od ] speedo gear. I think these little plastic gears are colour coded so which should I get or how many gear teeth does it need for the speedometer to work correctly.
Thanks for any assistance !!
Rory
 Give this a try. -- Dave Shoe, 08/29/2003
This FE forum tends to get rather dense when it come to truck specs after 1978.

You might try the FoMoCo main forum to improve the chance of a proper response:

http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18244&Reply=18244><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Brake Booster</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed B, <i>08/26/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Does anyone know where I can find a rebuilt power brake booster for a 69 Mustang big block? Are they different from other Mustang years? Will a Fairlane or other Ford unit fit the Mustang? Thanks. </blockquote> Brake Booster -- Ed B, 08/26/2003
Does anyone know where I can find a rebuilt power brake booster for a 69 Mustang big block? Are they different from other Mustang years? Will a Fairlane or other Ford unit fit the Mustang? Thanks.
 RE: Brake Booster -- Glenn, 08/27/2003
Try here:
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/power_brake_parts.htm
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18250&Reply=18244><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>When I was shopping for mine...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I found one at the local Orielly's auto parts store that was only about $150 or a little more. It came with a garauntee and it works great. I believe that the Mustang booster is unique. The Torino one is bigger from what I remember. The one for the Falcon might be worth looking into but the local parts houses can still get them. </blockquote> When I was shopping for mine... -- James, 08/28/2003
I found one at the local Orielly's auto parts store that was only about $150 or a little more. It came with a garauntee and it works great. I believe that the Mustang booster is unique. The Torino one is bigger from what I remember. The one for the Falcon might be worth looking into but the local parts houses can still get them.
 RE: When I was shopping for mine... -- Charlie, 08/28/2003
I picked one up for my 67 fb 390 car in stock at napa around $175 w/ mc.
Charlie
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18253&Reply=18244><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: When I was shopping for mine...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>08/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Mustang boosters are unique to Mustangs throught the years.  They are superficially similar to other lines like the Fairlane/Torino but are different enough to make the prospect of cross-platorm price shopping out of the question.  Boosters are also unique to the application -like a Mustang booster may be different between big block and small block/drum and disc brake cars. </blockquote> RE: When I was shopping for mine... -- Gerry Proctor, 08/28/2003
Mustang boosters are unique to Mustangs throught the years. They are superficially similar to other lines like the Fairlane/Torino but are different enough to make the prospect of cross-platorm price shopping out of the question. Boosters are also unique to the application -like a Mustang booster may be different between big block and small block/drum and disc brake cars.
 Boosters are line-specific but master cylinders vary more. [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/28/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18241&Reply=18241><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>352 Oil pressure trouble</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Glenn, <i>08/26/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>HELP !  I put together my 352 and pre-oiled it with a drill.  didn't have a gauge hooked up but there was plenty of resistnace and oil flowed out of the rocker shafts.  I started the engine for the first time and after getting the timing and carb set where it would run I looked over at the pressure and it was about 5 pounds.  I stopped the engine and pulled the distributor.  Put the drill back in and it turns with little resistance and oil pressure only goes up to 15 psi at 2400 drill rpm.  Thats equal to 15 psi at 4800 crank rpm.  I'm probably gonna have to pull the engine  but if anyone has something I may have overlooked please let me know.  I figure a gallery plug blew out or the relief valve in the pump is stuck open.   Thoughts ??<br>Thanks....<br>Glenn </blockquote> 352 Oil pressure trouble -- Glenn, 08/26/2003
HELP ! I put together my 352 and pre-oiled it with a drill. didn't have a gauge hooked up but there was plenty of resistnace and oil flowed out of the rocker shafts. I started the engine for the first time and after getting the timing and carb set where it would run I looked over at the pressure and it was about 5 pounds. I stopped the engine and pulled the distributor. Put the drill back in and it turns with little resistance and oil pressure only goes up to 15 psi at 2400 drill rpm. Thats equal to 15 psi at 4800 crank rpm. I'm probably gonna have to pull the engine but if anyone has something I may have overlooked please let me know. I figure a gallery plug blew out or the relief valve in the pump is stuck open. Thoughts ??
Thanks....
Glenn
 RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble -- giacamo, 08/26/2003
probley a oil plug blew out nextime you do a rebild tap all oil plug holes and install allen plugs.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18246&Reply=18241><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Barry R, <i>08/27/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Check for the galley plug behind the cam timing sprocket/distributor - - its the easiest one to forget.  Don't ask  how I know that..... </blockquote> RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble -- Barry R, 08/27/2003
Check for the galley plug behind the cam timing sprocket/distributor - - its the easiest one to forget. Don't ask how I know that.....
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18248&Reply=18241><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Glenn, <i>08/27/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Barry R,<br>If you mean the one you can see through the distributor hole that one is still there and not leaking. I"ve done enough cussin'.  The engine comes out this weekend.  I'll strip it all the way down and put pipe plugs in all the oil passages.  The way it should have been done to begien with.  Its gonna cost a gasket set and probably new bearings.  I just hope that is the cure.  Arrrgh.......<br>Glenn </blockquote> RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble -- Glenn, 08/27/2003
Thanks Barry R,
If you mean the one you can see through the distributor hole that one is still there and not leaking. I"ve done enough cussin'. The engine comes out this weekend. I'll strip it all the way down and put pipe plugs in all the oil passages. The way it should have been done to begien with. Its gonna cost a gasket set and probably new bearings. I just hope that is the cure. Arrrgh.......
Glenn
 RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble -- Glenn, 08/27/2003
And no, I'm not Eric. At least he gets pressure at startup. :-)
Glenn
 RE: 352 Oil pressure trouble -- Barry_R, 08/28/2003
Also be sure to check the pump itself. They have a habit of collecting any and all shrapnel from the rebuild - - the tinyest piece could lock up the bypass valve....if its stuck open you get no pressure.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18238&Reply=18238><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>31 spline 9 "</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>thomas, <i>08/26/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 31 spline 9" rear drum to drum from  a 69 Torino Cobra.  Factory  posi, never opened, 85,000 miles . Someone has asked me to sell it for a 69 cyclone project and I don't know what to ask for it. Any suggestions. It is correct for his car and will bolt right in.  Help ! </blockquote> 31 spline 9 " -- thomas, 08/26/2003
I have a 31 spline 9" rear drum to drum from a 69 Torino Cobra. Factory posi, never opened, 85,000 miles . Someone has asked me to sell it for a 69 cyclone project and I don't know what to ask for it. Any suggestions. It is correct for his car and will bolt right in. Help !
 Depends on how bad he wants it.. -- dennie, 08/26/2003
I payed 125 for a 3:89 pumkin only 28 spline open. I'd ask at least 600 and see how he reacts, I don't believe the rear is gonna fetch a whole lot more so don't plan on retiring. I'm sure I could find one for 600 or less maybe not today but within a month. HTH
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18235&Reply=18235><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>exhaust manifolds</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve, <i>08/25/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Would one of you guys please tell me if the exhaust manifolds from a 66 fairlane 390GT will fit on a 427 engine. Part# C60E-9430-A & Part# C60e-9431-A. Thanks guys for your help. </blockquote> exhaust manifolds -- Steve, 08/25/2003
Would one of you guys please tell me if the exhaust manifolds from a 66 fairlane 390GT will fit on a 427 engine. Part# C60E-9430-A & Part# C60e-9431-A. Thanks guys for your help.
 Yes but..... -- Royce Peterson, 08/25/2003
The only 427 engine they will fit is the 1968 hydraulic lifter 427. This engine originally used the same exhaust manifolds as a 1967 - 68 390GT Mustang / Cougar.

Any other year 427 has a head design with exhaust ports that do not have bolt holes to align with the holes in the 390GT manifolds.

There are specific 1966 - 67 Fairlane 427 manifolds that will of course work. The 390GT manifolds are terrible for performance and I advise against using them in any case on a 427.

Royce
 RE: exhaust manifolds -- uri, 12/03/2005
If the manifolds Part# C60E-9430-A & Part# C60e-9431-A would fit 361 cu.in engine that I have on Edsel Pacer 1958. Thanks.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18234&Reply=18234><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Trouble Priming</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Scott, <i>08/25/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>This weekend I tried to prime my rebuilt 390.  I spun the drill counter-clockwise for 30 minutes.  The melling oil pump never binded up and oil never made up to the top of the motor.  The oil level in the pan never changed. Any thoughts. Thanks. </blockquote> Trouble Priming -- Scott, 08/25/2003
This weekend I tried to prime my rebuilt 390. I spun the drill counter-clockwise for 30 minutes. The melling oil pump never binded up and oil never made up to the top of the motor. The oil level in the pan never changed. Any thoughts. Thanks.
 RE: Trouble Priming -- Allen, 08/25/2003
Are you sure you were fully engaged with the oil pump shaft? You will be able to tell because the drill will severely bog down. I was using a 12 V Black and Decker drill, and after about 3 to 5 minutes the motor (of the drill) smelled like it was burning up, so if you were doing it for 30 minutes, and didn't notice anything, then maybe you were just spinning the shaft, and it wasn't engaged. The easiest way to make sure things are working is to hook up an oil pressure gauge, and you should get up to 60-70 psi of pressure while priming.
When I primed mine, I could see oil in the valve covers (I used old covers with sight holes cut into them) slowly dripping off the baffles.
 RE: Trouble Priming -- giacamo, 08/26/2003
lossen up oil filter maybe air locked maybe oil filter. maybee gasket installed rong on block.to filter mount.maybee crack in oil pickup tube at oilpump flange maybee cracked oilpump ear from overtighting bolts.if you have oil going to filter check all your oil gallery plugs
 RE: Trouble Priming -- ed cougar, 08/28/2003
remove the pressure switch and fill oil pump through the oil filter adapter, then see if it picks it up.
 EDC Heads -- Steve Gundlach, 08/23/2003
I also have a set of first 90 day production 352 EDC heads and adjustable rockers. Came out of a running car. Where do the EDC heads fall into the performance line up?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=18209&Reply=18209><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>U-Joint Problems</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Robb Johson, <i>08/21/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>So I replace the engine, tranny, and drive shaft in my 65 Galaxie with the complete drive train out of a 68 LDT (390 & C6). It all bolted right on with little modifications. The problem I'm having lately is the U-joints have come apart three times now. The first two times (3 months apart and 18 months after I put it all back together) the drive shaft came away from the yoke. My thoughts are the problem my be I need to swap out the yoke from the 65 to a 68, swap the 68 drive shaft to the 65. Go figure. any takers?<br><br>Thanks <br>Robb J </blockquote> U-Joint Problems -- Robb Johson, 08/21/2003
So I replace the engine, tranny, and drive shaft in my 65 Galaxie with the complete drive train out of a 68 LDT (390 & C6). It all bolted right on with little modifications. The problem I'm having lately is the U-joints have come apart three times now. The first two times (3 months apart and 18 months after I put it all back together) the drive shaft came away from the yoke. My thoughts are the problem my be I need to swap out the yoke from the 65 to a 68, swap the 68 drive shaft to the 65. Go figure. any takers?

Thanks
Robb J
 RE: U-Joint Problems -- tom, 08/22/2003
sounds like you have a balance problem or the shaft is worn where the cups go
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