Std Bore is 4.230" for a 427

Man yeah. ive got an edelbrock performer 390 on mine. the cam in my motor.. i don't know honestly but i do know most of the major manufactures make them just for the 428 cj.

It's one or the other. The factory CJ cam (C6OZ) is a fairly decent cam. If you want more, then you should probably talk to a couple or three of the cam companies to get their expert recommendation.

It's hard to do better than the factory CJ intake. It's easy to do worse -like using a Performer 390. You could knock about 70lbs off the nose of the car by replacing the factory CJ intake with a factory PI or one of the Blue Thunder PI repros. The PI intake is the same as the CJ, except it is cast in aluminum. The only real equivalent, readily available intake is the Performer RPM.

All set, Thanks

The choke stove is is for heating the old style automatic choke caps. Heat from the choke stove (exaust manifold) is drawn through choke assembly through a small vacuum port in the carb. This heats the choke element in the choke cap up causing the choke to open as the engine heats up. I'm not sure but I think the 289's have two tubes that go to the passenger side exaust manifold. One tube hooks up to the threaded vacuum port on the carb, the other is a push on hose connection that connects to the top of the carb, this one is for pulling cold filtered air into the exaust manifold, heating it up and sending it over to the automatic choke. I have seen others with the choke stove located in the intake manifold exaust crossover port also. These parts are often rusted out and not connected. If you have them hooked up and working properly, these chokes work great.

There's a lot of ways you can modify the chassis and suspension on these trucks. They can be a lot of fun when they're done right, or be a miserable pile of crap and worth nothing if done wrong.

I've built several trucks for many people over the years, and by far the best, easiest, and in the big picture, cheapest way to do this is with a Mustang II front suspension crossmember kit. If you want to go low buck, get the basic kit, about $350, and find a donor 74-80 Pinto or 74-78 Mustang II front clip, available at the junk yard for about $150. This will give you a modern suspension design with rack and pinion steering and disc brakes, and have an excellent ride. With a 3500 pound truck, I'd recommend upgrading the front disc brakes to 10 or 11 inch, but the stock 9" rotors may get you by for a while. Also optional would be to install new bushings and ball joints in the control arms while you've got it apart. Modify your steering column or replace it with a fancy tilt unit and you're good to go up front.

At the rear, Chassis Engineering and probably several others make nice, comfortable leaf kits for just a few hundred dollars to compliment the front and level out the stance.

I highly discourage swapping entire frames from some unknown car. Width, length and wheelbase will have to be extensively modified, body mounts will need to be fabricated and body panels chopped up to pull off a deal like that. Reasle value on an abortion project like that will be nil.

Even grafting a camaro front clip the truck frame isn't a desirable way to go. It adds hundreds of pounds of dead weight to the front end, and again, major hacking of inner structure is required, not to mention ease of making a mistake in placement and having an ill-handling ride when done.

With a M-II crossmember kit, it includes detailed instructions, templates and all the parts you need ready to weld. Above all, the engineering is done to ensure your geometry is correct so you'll have a safe and comfortable driving truck when it's finished. They're realitively easy to install if you're mechanicly inclined at all, and the resale value will be there if you take your time and do a professional quality job.

Good Luck with your project and enjoy.

several try carls ford, vintage speed, ebay, i have an edelbrock f380, i got carbs from vintage speed, like it http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17923&Reply=17923

obsolete ford in OKlahoma city

did you ever find a 3x2 intake

darn i have to buy two today,and did the nascar 427 come with 2 4v's

I never was a Fairlane fan, but obviously I like the engine.....I even like the hood. I must admit,, it does sound too good to be true.....#1 of 11? Do any of you experts see any reason why this car might be a fake? Selling on e-bay kinda makes me wonder....

. . . be to get a VIN report from Kevin Marti. But then there is the staement that he won't let you inspect it until AFTER you've won the bid, which I'm sure raises a few suspicions.

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. . . . selling C*ies because he refers to this as a "35W" car, when we all know that "35" only idents the car as a Fairlane 500 hardtop, but the "W" is the engine code for 427-4V.
I see what Mr. F means when he says it has the wrong hood. Here's a pix of the correct hood, right?
http://www.sd455.com/fairlanehood.htm

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265h comp cam,and lifters mach springs use onepice valve ratainers and crome molly pushrods the 265h works good with stock intake and exaust......