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 |  1970 cougar c-6 transmission floor shift lever -- randy roupe, 04/05/2006
I have a 1970 cougar and just dropped in a 460 engine with a c-6 transmission.I noticed my trans lever is pointing up I guess for a colum shift.I have a factory floor shifter and need to find out what to do to change it over.Do I just need the lever that points down?And if I do where can I get one? I have a console in the car and dont think I can use another shifter.any suggestions,motor is about 550 hp.and trans is built to take 600 hp.Thanks,Randy |
 | R-code 427 (2nd long post) -- Bill, 04/04/2006
Gentlemen: I have a second vehicle that ties in with my previous post concerning the 428 PI in the ’73 4x4.
My other vehicle that needs TLC is a ’64 Galaxie with a bone-stock, “R-code”, 427 Low-Riser. (It isn’t a numbers-matching car in case anyone was drooling).
I’ve owned the car since 1976 and I had the engine rebuilt to stock specs shortly after I bought it.
It has minimal miles on the engine because I’ve moved around a lot, but the miles that I did put on it were pretty hard ones because I was an idiot. (Immature clod + barley/malt beverages + dual quad 427 = 7 grand holeshots to ‘impress’ neighbors…)
Those days are over but I think I wounded the engine, at least minimally. I know that my ‘stupid driving tricks’ caved in the oil pan almost to the pickup screen at one time so there were most likely some starvation issues.
The engine is one sweet-running item, and very, very streetable, even with the 2-4s, but I think I did something bad to the internals at some point because oil pressure has been a problem lately that I’ve been working on restoring the car. I tried all the low budget fixes by changing to different viscosity oils but the engine has to come apart and I intend to do that once I’m back in the US.
I have about 70-80 psi cold with 20-50 oil, but the pressure drops quickly when the engine is warm to about 10 psi or less at idle and that is way too low for me to be comfortable.
Since I should have the time to do it right once November rolls around, I would like to ask for opinions and advice on a few things.
**What is a good replacement cam for this engine, one that mimics the stock solid-lifter cam that is in there now? This engine has a really ‘good’ lope, and I don’t think I really want to lower the compression of this engine if I don’t absolutely have to. I would plan on buying ‘race gas’ to mix with the stuff available now in order to keep things as stock as possible. I would go with a complete cam kit in order to replace the springs, retainers, and all.
**Now, are hardened valve seats important for something like this? I believe that I read a past post that made the statement that unless the vehicle was driven for 40,000 miles then the benefits of hardened seats wouldn’t really be seen or needed. Opinions on this? Since the engine has to come apart, now would be the time to do whatever was needed. This car would not be a daily driver with a lot of mileage.
**Again the rocker shaft issue comes up. I have the stock Low-Riser stands and rockers but would like to step to something with a little more insurance value. I’ll read whatever responses come in for my other post, but if someone has a specific opinion for the 427 I wouldn’t mind hearing it as well.
**I’ll avoid asking the same questions about dampers, and common engine items that I asked previously about my 428PI, but I do want opinions on rod bolts.
I know for a fact that I’ve spun this thing way too high during my ‘formative years’ and I was very, very lucky that it didn’t grenade back then. I think I should replace the connecting rod bolts with newer ones but have the same questions about the ARP bolts.
Does this 427 have the same connecting rod bolt configuration as the 428, or do I have stronger rods and bolts to start with? Any comments or opinions concerning the ‘right’ way to improve on the stock 427 bolts I have now in order to prevent future failures caused by past indiscretions? Should I look for NOS Ford parts, or upgrade to aftermarket stuff?
**I should note, and I should have noted on my first post, that I can’t browse eBay from my email system. I’m on a monitored e-mail system and there are a lot of things that are blocked by our security; eBay is one of them. So if someone has advice on a source other then eBay, please pass it on.
**This last question may sound silly, but it is a concern of mine. I know that this engine has quite a lot of value and I hesitate to hand it over to a machine shop without references. If anyone has personal experience (preferable a good experience) with a machine shop that knows Ford FEs in the Southeastern NY or Southern New England area I would appreciate hearing about it. There are a couple of the kit Cobra shops in CT and the name of Danbury Competition Engines has been suggested by one of the kit Cobra websites. Does anyone have personal knowledge or experience with this shop? I tried to access the part of the Fomoco.com site that lists car clubs but wasn’t able to get that to work for me.
As always, all opinions and viewpoints are appreciated.
Bill
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| | RE: R-code 427 (2nd long post) -- Royce P, 04/05/2006
That's a lot of questions. You need a car club to join in your area so you can find out who can help you with the rebuild that is trustworthy.
Comp Cams will make you a duplicate of the factory grind. You have to call them to arrange it and talk with a human. If the clown on the phone says he can't do it ask for his supervisor. Contact info is here:
http://www.compcams.com/
Royce |
| |  | Thanks -- Bill, 04/05/2006
Yeah, probably too many questions... I'm sure that most of the answers are here somewhere and I'll take the time to dig deeper. I'll try to find a Ford number for the cam for them to cross-reference.
Much appreciated. Bill |
|  | RE: cool post/info/questions -- McQ, 04/08/2006
I do want to say that I got a kick outta readin' your post. You've definitely got the right idea and plan to resurrect this fine mill.
I'm going to offer some real quick answers based on my opinions:
Hardened exhaust seats? Don't need 'em with your limited usage plans and the occasional mix of leaded racing fuel.
Your stock 427 lo-riser stands/rockers will work fine. You might consider changing the self locking style adjusting screws to a lock nut style as offered by Rocker Arm Specialties in Californina. I use them on my 427 and like them. I did have occasional issues with the self-locking adj. screws.
Rods? The lo riser rods are the same as the CJ/PI 428 rods. They're good. ARP does offer a rod bolt kit and I'd suggest them. I have them in my '63 lo riser rods. No probs so far but I keep my revs limited to 6,000 which is max for the Comp 282S I'm running. Like you, I've become a bit conservative and no longer feel the need to rev my standard bore crack free '63 427 any higher than 6,000.
Again, quick answers based on opinions and some experience. Maybe other will jump in an get some dialog going here again. |
| | | Thanks as well -- Bill, 04/08/2006
Thanks again, I value your opinion.
I am aware that I jammed a lot of questions and 'what-ifs' into my two 'novels' but I thought it was better than dragging it out piece by piece. I figured that explaining the 'big picture' would work better and background might be important...could be I stepped on some kind of forum ettiquette since this is the first time I've ever tried this. Hope not..
Mostly I was hoping to confirm that I hadn't misunderstood some of the things that I've learned here, or at least knowledge I 'think' I've gained here.
Everything I've read so far in past posts has been helpful beyond expectations.
Is the 282S cam a good replacement for the stock 427, or is it way more aggressive?
Thanks for your input.
Bill |
| | | | Re: 282s? -- McQ, 04/09/2006
The Comp 282S is not at all too aggressive. I think Royce is running one in one of his Cougars but I can't remember whether it's the 428 or 427? The 282S has a nice idle that is similar to the stock 427 306/500 shaft. You can check out all the specs on Comp's website.
Again, your post was fine in my opinion. This is a good site where I've learned a lot also. You've got an interesting plan.
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| | | | | RE: Re: 282s? -- Royce P, 04/11/2006
I have a 282S in a stroker 427 with a 4 speed. It is a 454 CI engine. It pulls 20" of vacuum.
Royce |
 | 428PI & truck 360 (long post) -- Bill, 04/04/2006
First of all let me say that this is an amazing forum!
Mr F: My thanks to you for the efforts you make to keep this forum alive and to keep the huge amounts of past posts available for searching and review.
I discovered this forum from a link on the FordMuscle forum and have been immersed in reading everything I can and going back as far as I can to read past posts in an effort to avoid showing my a** with questions that may have already been asked and answered.
I’ve learned more in the 3 weeks that I’ve been researching the past posts than I have in many, many years of owning FEs and working on them. The technical advice here is amazing!
The knowledge, experience, and advice of folks like Royce, Hawkrod, Dave Shoe, McQ and others has been very educational for me and probably will help me to make far fewer mistakes as I begin the two projects that I have in mind.
**Disclaimer: I am currently in a hot and dusty place courtesy of “Uncle Sugar”; my vehicles are resting back in Connecticut for me to return. I can’t answer any questions about casting numbers or dimensions from here.
My aim is to have boxes and boxes of parts ready in November when I am once again in the ‘land of the big PX’ and able to tinker.
**My first series of questions concerns my 1973 F-250 4x4 with a ’68 428 PI engine and C-6 trans.
I’ve had this engine in and out of the truck since the early 80s.
I recently had the engine on a stand to pull the heads so that I could send them out for hardened seats. I never got the chance to put the engine back in, and after reading some of the information on this forum, I thought I would list my ‘plans’ and ask for some advice from those that have probably done much of what I intend to do.
**Headers: I’ve always run headers on this, I think they were Blackjack until they rusted out, then swapped to stock 360 truck manifolds while I decided what headers to go with next. I don’t ever remember noticing any port or gasket mis-match problems between the headers and truck manifolds, so based on what I’ve read here, I think that the 428 & 360 heads have the same exhaust configuration, am I correct? I’ve never had a leak problem so that leads me to believe that the ports are the same. The bolt pattern is the same for the flanges.
I can buy Hedman thermal coated 4-tube headers (3/8” flange and 14 ga tubes) from one of the big suppliers, or I can go with the FPA Tri-Y thermal coated ones. The Hedmans are less than half the price of the FPA items, but the quality of the FPA headers has been touted here on this site more than once.
Question: Will I notice much of a difference in the Tri-Y and 4-tube as far as low and mid-range power? This is a truck and won’t be on the strip, I don’t intend to buzz the engine up to 6 grand on a regular basis, either. It is almost a daily driver vehicle, and I want to do this right the first time. If the FPA units are far better then I guess I don’t mind spending the $$ up front to get the best performance.
**Cam: from what I’ve read, the Comp Cams 268H seems to be about the best replacement choice for a basically ‘stock’ or mild rebuild. Agreed? I would get the ‘kit’ with springs, retainers, locks, etc.
**I intend to keep the stock aluminum PI manifold with probably an Edelbrock carb. Any ideas as to preferred jetting on the Edelbrock? I hope to keep the stock compression ratio, unless the engine needs to be bored.
**Rockers: I’ve seen a lot of discussion in these forums about broken rocker shafts. Personally I’ve never experienced a problem, but want to avoid one if possible.
Harland-Sharp has thicker shafts in two sizes; .840” & .875”. What is the stock size shaft that I need?
My thoughts are to use Ford NOS adjustable rockers, even though the stock non-adjustable ones lasted for this long. I figure that these parts are pretty old and it would be cheap peace-of-mind to get something newer. Opinions?
If I can avoid the high-dollar needle bearing aluminum systems I would like to do that.
I can also get a used set of Low-Riser stock assemblies from Perogie.
I’ve seen references to rocker shaft end stands from Precision Oil pumps, but haven’t written to them yet for prices and descriptions, can anyone speak from personal experience about these?
**Cylinder heads: I figure that I have the skills to at least smooth out the castings and port-match the intakes without making any efforts to redesign the ports and runners. My thoughts are that I can shine up the ports and remove any bumps without doing damage to the overall design. I want to make sure that I’m not kidding myself, or heading for a disaster. Comments?
**Hardware: There was a discussion a couple years ago where Dave Shoe expressed concerns about the ARP 3/8” rod bolts that were a replacement for the 13/32 stock Ford bolts. What was the final outcome of that discussion? Any further pros and cons? This will be mostly a ‘stock’ rebuild with some relatively minor improvements built in, so sustained high rpms are not in the picture.
**I have the 7 quart, rear sump, 4x4 oil pan so I think I’m ok in the oil pan capacity department, The engine was running between 75-80 psi cold and 40-50 psi hot at idle so I am confident that the internals are in good shape and oiling has never been a problem.
**Harmonic damper: Since that too is 35 years old and showing it’s age I plan on replacing it. I’ve seen several sites that offer rebuilt units, or will rebuild mine. Any opinions on mfrs that do the best job?
**Distributor: I have the stock points unit that came on the engine (CT State Police cruiser), and I have a Mallory Unilite Dist that is on my truck 360. I’ve read that a vacuum advance unit is best for street use so I can upgrade my stock dist with a Mallory or Pertronix kit, or I can get a Mallory dist with the vacuum advance. Preferences, opinions??
All replies and opinions are appreciated. Thanks, Bill
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| big block oil -- grabber, 04/04/2006
what is the correct weight and oil for my '69 390 engine.
me |
| | RE: big block oil -- Royce P, 04/05/2006
Factory shop manual recommends 10w-30 for cool weather, 10W-40 or 20w-50 for warm weather. Any name brand should be fine so long as you change it at 3000 miles or 12 month intervals, which ever comes first.
Royce |
| 390 -- grande man, 04/03/2006
hey guys I am doning some reserch on weather a 390 fe block I think will go in a 1970 grande coup I pulled the 302 out of it I am getting the fulley rebuilt 390 from my dad he rebuilds engines for doing this great restoration to a peice of american history I Just want to find out the work I would have to do so email me or somthing Thanks |
| | Re: 390 -- raycfe, 04/03/2006
390/ 428 FE were an option of 1969, and 428 FE engines where an option for the 70 model year. This a bolt it swap with factory parts. You do have to use cylinder heads drilled for the correct exhaust manifolds. |
| 460 in 69 mustang -- Ganners, 04/02/2006
Hello.
I have a 460 which i would like to lower in my 69 sportsroof. Is there any engine mounts and headers for this instalation available? |
| mach 1 390 -- grabber, 04/02/2006
I know that there were about 10,000 390's were made in '69.
Can anyone advise the following:
1. How many '69 Mach 1 390'S,
2. How many '69 Mach 1 390's were C6.
Kind Regards
Michael
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| | According to Kevin marti's book..... -- Peter M, 04/02/2006
1969 S code mustangs with C6 = 5443
Can' t help on the 390 mach 1's book doesn't break down that option. |
| | | 1969 S code C6 / fastbacks 4668 n/m -- Peter M, 04/02/2006
n/m |
| | | | RE: 1969 S code C6 / fastbacks 4668 n/m -- hot428ford, 04/02/2006
Lets see--mach 1 -72,458 total boss 302 -1,628 , boss 429 - 859 , gt equipment -5,396 , 390 cid -10,494 , 428 cj - 13,193. A total in 69 of 299,824. Hope thats help good day!!. |
| | | sss codes -- grabber, 04/04/2006
Thanks for the advice Peter. I am getting closer. I have spoken to Kevin Marti and he wants $100/hour to work it out. All I need to know now is how many 5443 '69 S(390) codes were Mach 1's.
me |
| | | | Wow!! I was thinking.... -- Peter M, 04/04/2006
Of getting Kevin to investigate my special paint Mach 1, to see if he has anything on the special paint? |
| | | | | He has no specific records on 'special paint' units. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/04/2006
n/m |
| | | | | | Thanks Mr F, ...: (n/m -- Peter M, 04/04/2006
n/m |
| | | | | | | Sure. What did you hope to learn? [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/04/2006
n/m |
| | | | | | | | Not sure, it's just that I have very little..... -- Peter M, 04/05/2006
Didn't know what Kevin could search for? Whether the car was a batch made for the rainbow promo or mine was a one off order from the dealer?!?!
Peter. |
| | | | | | | | | Actually, he could tell you some of that DSO stuff. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/05/2006
n/m |
| | | | | | | | | ...but 99%+ of 'special paint' units were singletons. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/05/2006
n/m |
| | | | | | | | | | A.C. what info would it be about the DSO? -- Peter M, 04/13/2006
If you can let me understand what Kevin might be able to produce for me, without going too to much trouble, then it might be worth getting him to search?
Regards
Peter. |
| Distributor id help -- KMC, 04/01/2006
Was wondering if you could help me ID a Ford dual point distributor with the following part number-
C8VF 12131-B 29
Any thoughts? |
| | | RE: That's the generic housing ID - not a specific ... -- KMC, 04/02/2006
Thanks, there is a 12127 on the head but no other markings. It is not an Autolite but has Motorcraft -could it be an over the counter job? |
| | | | Yep - exactly; it likely had a tag, when new. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/03/2006
n/m |
| need help with stearing box -- Scott, 03/31/2006
I am restoring a 67 that was hit in the front end and the stearing rod was bent but the stearing box is fine I need to know what is the best way to replace the stearing rod
if anyone can help me please let me know
Thanks |
| Engine Block Identification -- Stephen, 03/31/2006
I have a FORD engine block that I am trying to identify. It has four numbers listed on the block itself. These numbers are as follows:
C6AF6015-H
C1AE6316A
SC137285
3820
Can anyone assist in identification?
Many Thanks! |
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