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 |  Getting hot on freeway but not idling in city -- Steve M, 05/24/2004
Anybody have a clue why my 390 gets hot on the freeway and not when idling in the city or driving in the city? It is around 190 degrees in city and on the freeway it goes up to about 215. I only drive it about 3000 rpm on the freeway.. The timing is set right and I can't figure out why it does this. |
|  | RE: Getting hot on freeway but not idling in city -- Tony P., 05/24/2004
Steve, sounds like retarded timing. Make sure your centrifigal advance is working properly. Should have at least 20 degrees additional at 3000 rpm. |
| |  | yes, timing will do it but another common issue is -- hawkrod, 05/24/2004
a partially plugged radiator core. check and see if teh lower hose is sucking down when it is really hot. that is a sure indicator of a plugged core. hawkrod |
| | | | Another thing to check -- Royce, 05/25/2004
I had one that ran hot on the freeway and it turned out the lower radiator hose was collapsed when the motor was hot. The internal spring was just a bunch of rusty pieces, the hose was old and soft.
Royce |
| | | |  | royce, if your lower hose is colapsing.... -- hawkrod, 05/25/2004
it is not because of the spring. in theory, the spring is not there to keep it from colapsing. the spring is installed to keep the hose from colapsing on initial fill. if the hose is colapsing while running then you have another problem. since fluid can not be compressed and the same volume of fluid is being pushed in the top of the radiator as is being sucked out the bottom, the only way the lower hose can colapse is if you have a blockage or too much air in the system. a too small radiator will also have teh same effect. hawkrod |
| | |  | RE: yes, timing will do it but another common issue is -- Dano, 05/25/2004
I had the same problem in my 69 Mustang, it would run normal temp in town, but the temp would slowly keep climing to hot when on the freeway, the radiator was about 2/3 plugged up. |
| | RE: Getting hot on freeway but not idling in city -- giacamo, 05/25/2004
check the water pump inpeller i had one loose on the shaft once that drove me nuts at idel it was fine but at higher rpm,s it was loose on the shaft and would not turn and pump corectly.but the lower hose colapsing is the most comem. |
| | | please reread my response.... -- hawkrod, 05/25/2004
a colapsing hose is not a problem. it is an indication of another problem. it does not matter if a hose has a spring inside of it or not, a hose can not collapse if water is being forced through it. a hose can only collapse if the water is someplace else. usually a plugged radiator will cause all the air in the system to be compressed and the water uses that space and space created when the other hoses bloat. a liquid can not be compressed so if a radiator has sufficient volume and the core is clear then the pressure at the inlet of the radiator will be the same as that at the outlet and thus the hose can not colapse. hawkrod |
| | | | RE: please reread my response.... -- giacamo, 05/26/2004
hank most older radiators you leave a coupel of inches from filling to the top for expanshin thaus leaving room for the lower hose to colapse, if the spring is not in thear. the radiator just being a radiator will give you a negitive presser on the lower hose. being pluged will just make thing worse,i belive a total fill system with a recoverie tank is less likely to colapse the hose but still posabol if the pressor from the pump over comes the cap presser and the lower hose gos negative as in one of those hi vol pumps wich i,v had to take off of a friend of mine 1970 mustang.and install a stock one to corect his over heating problem. |
| | | | | in those cases the colapsing hose is.... -- hawkrod, 05/26/2004
in the examples you cite, the colapsing hose is an indicator of another problem and the hose itself is not the problem. if everything else is working as designed then a colapsed hose will never occur. it is the result of another failure that causes a colapsed hose, and if you remedy the problem then the hose will be fine. please note that ford replacement hoses do not come with springs in them, as noted by Mr F.'s post, and if that is the way ford engineers feel it should be i have to tend to agree. hawkrod |
| | RE: Getting hot on freeway but not idling in city -- Travis Miller, 05/27/2004
Lets start from scratch. What kind of car is it in? Does it have a crossflow or downflow radiator?
Crossflow radiators have a bad habit of clogging in the lower rows. The way to tell if you have a clogged lower section of a radiator is simple. After the engine is up to operating temperature, shut the engine off. Feel the radiator core from top to bottom. The core should be hot all the way down. I have found clogged radiators with as much as the lower 1/3 of the core cool to the touch. When replaced with another radiator, the overheating problem was solved. |
| | | Crossflow radiator -- Steve M, 05/28/2004
When I put my motor in, I took my radiator to a radiator shop to fix a leak and they put it in a tank of some kind of cleaner and pressure tested it and said it was still in good shape. I am kind of leaning towards the water pump thing. My motor is making an awful noise in the area of the water pump and somebody said it could be a loose impeller. |
| | And the answer is : -- Wayne K., 05/28/2004
A lot of guys pitch the clutch fan in favor of the lighter flex type fans (I'm guilty too) but here's what can happen.
At idle everything works as advertised. The flex fan draws air through the radiator, hopefully surrounded by the shroud. But what happens on the freeway to some folks is that the flex type fan actually becomes a BLOCKAID to air trying to pass through the radiator because the fan is turning slower, pulling air through SLOWER than the air would ram it's way through if you were using a clutch type fan. That's why clutch fans exist. They intentionally disengage at freeway speeds to keep the air passing unhindered though the radiator.
Flex fan freeway heating is especially noticeable on cars/trucks with numerically less gearing. Pull of the freeway and disconnect your flex fan and drive it another 20 miles to see if that's the problem. If it stays cool then that is your problem. My big block runs slightly warmer on the freeway for this exact reason. |
| compression reading - 1966 galaxie 352 4V? -- Al DeBlieux, 05/23/2004
can someone tell me what reading I should have on a compression test. I got around 50lbs. Is that right. the engine is running good. |
| | too low if hot and using starter -- dennie, 05/23/2004
110-150psi is expected, get engine warm remove all spark plugs check each cyl rotate at least 3 times with starter if a cyl is low remove tester squirt oil into cyl and recheck, if it goes up it's the rings. |
| | RE: compression reading - 1966 galaxie 352 4V? -- giacamo, 05/23/2004
50 may be fine the thing to look for is a cilinder way off wack. 50 sounds low but how are you testing? is the carb fully open, are all the plugs out?is it cranking fast enought?thease things afect the readings. if thear all about the same. your proublie ok.a leak down tester is a better tool for checking cilinder sealing rings valves ect...... |
| 66 galaxie 500 problem -- Al DeBlieux, 05/22/2004
Just bought a 66 galaxie for $1000. She's a hardtop fastback w/ a 352 4bbl. RAN great. Understand that I am not in anyway a machanic. Can replace parts but thats about it. learning as I go along. Anyway, I just replaced my water pump. It did take care of the overheating problem I had, but now running bad as it seems to be missing. Sounds fine at idle. I did clean in the area of the pump before installation being carefull not to spray water around carb. and cap. What I did do though (and can't help but to think this might have something to do with the problem) is spray, with a nossle, in both ports to clean out. Did I screw up? and if so how bad, and what do I need to do to correct. Or maybe it's just coincedence. Also when I drove it right after I installed the pump it ran fine for approx. 30 min. then started to run bad. any advise is appreciated. thanks Al |
| | RE: 66 galaxie 500 problem -- Tony P., 05/22/2004
Al, if that's all you did to it, try changing the cap and rotor. Any leftover water that was in the engine comp. might have gotten blown toward the cap by the fan once the engine was running. |
| | | RE: 66 galaxie 500 problem -- Al DeBlieux, 05/22/2004
thanks tony, I'm going to let it dry overnight and see. then change the cap and rotor. I'll let you know. thanks again-Al |
| | | RE: 66 galaxie 500 problem -- Al DeBlieux, 05/22/2004
Tony- also I did look under the cap and it LOOKED dry. |
| | | | RE: 66 galaxie 500 problem -- Tony P., 05/22/2004
Al, while it's dark you might want to take a peek under the hood with the engine running and check for any errant spark from the wires, coil, etc. |
| | | | | RE: 66 galaxie 500 problem -- Al DeBlieux, 05/22/2004
tony-I did as you suggested and saw nothing, but your message did remind me that when I bought the car it had an old coil in the trunk and a new one under the seat. I remember saying to myself "this can't be good". I'll switch the coil tomorrow. Is there anything, other than a bad ground, that can cause the coil to go bad prematurly. |
| | RE: 66 galaxie 500 problem -- giacamo, 05/23/2004
what do you mean bad missing? at idel wount rev up no power making noise ect.. |
| Tunnelport Carbs -- Phil, 05/22/2004
Which carbs do i need for my Tunnelport 8V intake? Any particular Holleys would be comparable to the original carbs? |
| | C8AF-AC and C8AF-AD -- Royce, 05/23/2004
715 CFM vacuum secondaries. These were designed for race use. They don't have power valves and are pretty soggy for street driving.
If you find a set and want to use them on the street you can get secondary metering blocks for O-3310-1 carbs and install power valves. That lets you jet down the secondaries enough to make them have some response at part throttle.
Or better yet just get a set of C5AF-BC and C5AF-BD carbs at http://www.carlsfordparts.com
Royce
Royce |
| Blue Thunder/FPP intake – Plenum notch and exhaust -- Robert, 05/21/2004
Blue Thunder/FPP intake – Plenum notch and exhaust crossover.
My engine plan is this:
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Engine is going in a 1972 F-100 Long Bed.
Use is home depot runs, around town errands, and probably occasionally dragging a ski boat to the lake.
Truck has a C6 built with a full TCI kit and a TCI Saturday night special converter.
Rear end is a 9” and will be having its gears and center changed to a true trak with between 3.70 and 4.11 depending on how the new engine runs (I am presently thinking 3.90)
It already has Hooker Competition headers, a Hooker Competition dual exhaust, with Dyno Max ultra flows. It is a 2.25 mandrel bent system, and is Jet Hot coated inside and out form the exhaust port to tailpipe exit.
The Truck also has a Crane 343801 cam, lifters, springs, retainers, locks and rocker arms. The cam specs are: ADV Duration: 278 °/ 290 °, 222 °/ 234 ° @.050 and .548 / 580 lift on 112.
I like the way this cam runs, not withstanding the fact it is in a worn out 360 with dismal compression even when new. I think the wide split in the pattern makes up a bit for the exhaust being on the smallish side.
I have an “S” code intake on it with a 3310 upgraded to a 428CJ look alike.
I’m planning to have the CJ sized valves installed in the stock heads C8AE-H and to put the 390 crank and rods in with Speed Pro forged .30 over flat tops, AFTER equalizing the chambers I figure they will be in the 9.75:1 range. It will be balanced and the cam straight up with an Edelbrock chain.
My hope is that it will be equal or slightly better than a Factory 390 GT @ about 335 HP; I really do not have a good reason for wanting that, other than it seems to be a reasonable benchmark.
Do you guys think it will turn that kind of power, and if not, where are the holes in my theory?
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Consensus seemed to be the biggest weak link in the engine was the factory “S” manifold, so I located and purchased a used FPP - Blue Thunder manifold. This manifold has a plenum notch and an exhaust crossover. This manifold was discussed here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread?forumid=74182&messageid=1083714438
I know that the notch helps make power up top, and my can stops making power in the low to mid 5000 range, my question is will it hurt the low end enough to warrant my trying to some how un-notch it? My thought was that I could fabricate a sheet metal “U” to block it, or make a small block to bolt in (I’d be worried about that coming loose though) I’d prefer not to weld it up, because I may at some point go to a hotter cam.
My other question is should I block off the exhaust crossover (if for no other reason that to prevent paint burning off.) and if so what is the proper method. (Victor makes a gasket?)
Thanks in advance.
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| '66 T'Bird Exhaust -- JoeZ, 05/20/2004
Does anyone know whether or not cast iron CJ exhuast manifolds will fit a 1966 T'bird w/428? Its a unibody car w/ a column shifted C6. Thanks. |
| | Based on my experience, I'd say no way in heck. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/20/2004
n/m |
| | | RE: Based on my experience, I'd say no way in heck. :-) [n/m] -- JoeZ, 05/20/2004
Where do you see the interference occurring? Would it be on the LH side at the linkage? Could the exhaust piping be custom bent to avoid the interference or are the CJ manifolds themselves causing the interference? |
| | amazingly enough..... -- hawkrod, 05/24/2004
the CJ are about the only manifolds other than stock that will fit a tbird. i have never actually tried a 64-66 but they fit my 62 with no problems! hawkrod |
| | | Sure - I agree about '62-'63 Birds. But no bets on 1964-66. [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/26/2004
n/m |
| | | | Interferences? -- JoeZ, 05/29/2004
What causes the fitment problem(s)on the '64-'66? |
| | | | | RE: Interferences? -- Jason, 06/07/2004
If the headers manage to clear the shock towers, the next hurdle is the reinforcement between the firewall and the inner fender on the passenger side.
On the driver's side, there is the steering box/column and a frame member near the bellhousing.
Why do you want the cast CJ headers? FPA makes custom headers that fit the '66 T-bird. |
| | | | | | RE: Interferences? -- JoeZ, 06/07/2004
I was hoping to maintain as much of a stock look on the car as possible-the CJs, which I already have, look more like the original cast iron log manifolds and flow better than the logs. I'll probably wind up with the shorty FPAs since the consensus seems to be that the CJs won't fit a '66. Thanks for your input, Jason. |
| | | | | | | i do not think that is the consensus.... -- hawkrod, 06/08/2004
i think it is a guess from a bunch of people who have never tried it. at least a dozen people told me it would not work in a 62 but it did. yes the 64-66 is a little different from the 61-63 but until somebody tries it nobody will ever know for sure. if you do go with the FPA's at least try the CJ's while your in there so you can let the next guy know. hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | Yep - no promises, from me. Any volunteers? :-D [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/08/2004
n/m |
| | | | | | | | RE: i do not think that is the consensus.... -- JoeZ, 06/08/2004
I will try the CJ manifolds and post the results. I'm a little way away from an attempt, probably six months, since chassis is not ready. I volunteer, Mr Fomoco. |
| | | | | | | | | Good man! ::LOL:: Please report back, Ok? [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/10/2004
n/m |
| OT: trying to get title for 1949 f-1 -- Eric H, 05/20/2004
my buddy was cleaning out his grandpa's farm and found a 49 f-1. his grandpa died 5 or 6 years ago. for 100.00 he pulled the truck to my house. problem is, no title,no proof of any kind that his grandfather owned it. the truck is in great shape and i would like to restore it. how do i go about getting a title for this vehicle?? is it a lost cause? this is a beautiful truck and i would hate to see it never hit the road again. any help would be appreciated. |
| | RE: OT: trying to get title for 1949 f-1 -- crusinbuddy, 05/20/2004
You can go to your Dept. Of Motor Vehicles and they can do a search to be sure it's not stolen etc. and they can issue you a title if it checks out OK. |
| | | RE: Not exactly. -- Gerry Proctor, 05/20/2004
While they could verify that it's not stolen, that bit of information wouldn't make it yours.
You need to find out who owns it. If it did belong to the grandfather then it would be part of his estate and whoever is the executor of the estate would be the only person who could create a bill of sale or a title to the vehicle. Each state varies as to how title can be transferred and that's where your DOT comes in. You need to visit your state's DOT Internet site and research the question.
If no owner can be identified then it could be declaired abandon. From there it gets to the point where you might need some legal help.
But the bottom line is that it belongs to whoever the state says it belongs to. |
| | | | Frustrating -- Eric H, 05/20/2004
my buddys dad went to the dmv and without any paperwork proving that his father owned it, ie: insurance, old registration, they said that they could not issue a new title. there is no hope in finding any paperwork, i am sure of that. i got a bill of sale but that doesn;t matter because the truck doesn't exist in the dot computer. 7 years is as far back as they go i was told. have you ever used a title company such as titles unlimited or any of the other companys that get titles in these situations? this truck is in great shape and should be up and running in the next couple weeks and it would be hard knowing that i may never be able to drive it. |
| | | | | RE: Frustrating -- Gerry Proctor, 05/20/2004
In most states, particularly in the southern states, a title can be issued from a bill of sale. That's why you need to research this before going to the DMV. Every state is different. With no record of the vehicle, they may have a state trooper inspect the vehicle before issuing title. Do the research before burning shoe leather. |
| 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- GTJOE, 05/20/2004
Could use some help with this one. 390 2v premium fuel in a 66 XL C-6 buckets all the normal stuff EXCEPT the head codes are a new one on me and could use some help on the I.D. C3AEH. I know what my book says just having a hard time believing it. Thanks for any help you guys can give. |
| | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- giacamo, 05/20/2004
1963 390 352 heads decent heads. |
| | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- Tony P., 05/21/2004
Yeah, I can see why you would have a hard time believing it if your book says they are 63 427 low riser heads because that is what they are according to the casting # Pull a valve cover and get the date code. |
| | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- Barry B, 05/21/2004
C3AE-H are LR heads, here's a pic:
 |
| | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- giacamo, 05/22/2004
the cast numbers are for lowriser heads but problie have 390 valves and are the same as the regular 390 352 large port pre 65 heads witch can be hoged out for bigger valves.good heads if some one is restoring a 63 427 and wanted some head numbers to mach. |
| | | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- Bas, 01/20/2005
hello!
can sombody help me to i.d. the following heads please?
C1AE 6090A
C3AE 6090C
C4AE 6090G
Regards Bas
The Netherlands |
| | | | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- Tony P., 01/20/2005
Here's what I come up with, hope it helps
C1AE 6090A = 61-63 352/390
C3AE 6090C= Late 63 406
C4AE 6090G = 64-65 352/390
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| | | | RE: 66 XL 390 I.D. heads. -- Randy, 12/09/2005
C3ae6090C Heads are of 63 Tbird 390 if have small valves. |
| Lobe Separations and centerlines? -- Jay, 05/19/2004
I'm going to change out a cam in my 390 thats in a f250 4x4. I notice amny of the factory performance cams were ground on 114 lobe centers. Does this improve low end torque or hurt it. I am looking at 3 different cams and one has a 112 lobe sep. and the other 2 have 110's. All three have roughly the same specs. The comp xe256, a Reed custom grind, and a Lunati. The Lunati has the 112 sep. Just don't know which would be better. |
| | RE: Lobe Separations and centerlines? -- 390ranger, 05/20/2004
The 112 will have more manifold vacuum and a less chopy idle, still loppy though The 110 usually have a peakier torque curve and a rougher idle. were the 112 and 114 have flatter torque curves uually at lower rpms and last longer. however the xecam series are ground differently they claim they rev like a 110 and have a flatter torque curve like a 112 or 114 with improved manifold vacuum. Hope that helps |
| | RE: Lobe Separations and centerlines? -- giacamo, 05/20/2004
jay 390ranger has it corect the 110 cams do not seam to last if it,s driven on the streat you wount it to last over 100000 miles my two cents i,d go with comp cams thay last on my rebilds.thear are lots of reprebol cams out thear but i use comp cams thay just last. |
| | | Giacomo, you lost me. -- Jay, 05/22/2004
The comp is a 110. I don't see where 390 ranger said it wont last on the street. Help me out here. |
| | | I think he meant... -- Jay, 05/22/2004
... that the torque curve will last longer. Not the cam. |
| | | | RE: I think he meant... -- giacamo, 05/22/2004
the norm is in my 2cents 106 108 110 cams are more agresif the norm is rougher idel low vack and yes seam to wear quicker. but the 110 comp cams seam to last and any higher lobe sep cams in a fe seam to last for ever.if springs lifters ect are corect for ap.thear are so many diferent cams and so many clame so many diferent things, but the norm is a compleat cam to springs package will preform as advetized. |
| | | | | Thanks Giacomo -- Jay, 05/23/2004
nt |
| Better & Stronger than stock Flexplate needed. -- David, 05/19/2004
I am looking for where I can get a FE Flexplate for my 390 that is better & stronger than the stock Ford unit or the over the counter parts store replacements.
I do not need an SFI certified Flexplate but if that is all there is then that is ok.
It is the 184 tooth internal balance Flexplate.
Where can I go to get the best price/lowest price for this better Flexplate SFI or otherwise.
Thanks for the help. |
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