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 |  Valve springs for Hyd cam ? -- Jay, 05/08/2004
I was just noticing the different lbs springs used for hyd cams. I am going to change the cam in my 390. I have a hyd am going to go to a different hyd that is a tad smaller. The valve springs I have are rated at 105lbs but the cam I am going to calls for 120 lb springs and a different installed height. I am currently using a Cam Research Cam with very fast ramps that is 218 int and 225 exh and 530 lift. I am going with a Lunati 207 int and 217 exh with 507 and 533 lift. The lunati is calling for 120 lb springs. Can someone hlp me out here. |
|  | RE: Valve springs for Hyd cam ? -- giacamo, 05/09/2004
use what the cam calls for,the lunati cam probley, give you a rpm edge with the 120 springs. |
 | 427 hi risers -- G man, 05/08/2004
I have located 2 nos 427 short block motors.
They both have the same metal tag with the following numbers; C8AE 6008 L C6AZ AG 427 HP. Both are mounted on a wooden platform. They are complete shorts blocks with domed pistons and the cylinders have a small notch for valve clearance. They have the usual cross bolt mains and screw in plugs. These motors have sat in an old guys basement for over 30 years.There are 2 C4AE 9425 F intakes with BD & BC carbs. There are 4 C4AE 6090 F heads. Are these hi riser motors? and what is their value. Again everything is NOS!!
thanks G man |
| | RE: 427 hi risers -- G man, 05/08/2004
correction on the id tag, should read C8AE 6009 L C6AZ AG 427 HP |
| Oil restrictors ? -- Jay, 05/07/2004
I am going to do a cam change and thought I would throw in some restrictors while I got it down. Should I buy some or use a home method and do you secure them in place or just let them slide up and down in the hole. |
| | RE: Oil restrictors ? -- David, 05/08/2004
Jay I think I have heard of both methods being used.
I am assuming you are talking about the restrictors placed in the heads under the rocker shaft pedestal?
If you deside to secure them I would recomend drilling & tapping the hole so you can easily remove them in the future if needed. I would say you can either buy the kit or make them. I think I remember seeing .090" restrictor hole size.
When & if I install mine I was not going to go that small I was probably going to go half way between the original hole size & the .090".
I Don't want to starve the rockers as I am going to be driving my car as much as possible on the street & it will see some hard driving. That is just my reasioning. bb |
| Heads ID -- birchymm, 05/07/2004
I've got a bunch of parts that I'm trying to identify. Set of heads with C7AE-R part number. I know the first part mean 67 Galaxie application, but I know the R id's what size they are. Can anyone tell me what it means? Thanks |
| I Love U, I H8 U, Love U, H8 U -- Geoff, 05/07/2004
Man, this is it...one last time....DON'T ASK!...just tell me to keep it (she doesn't)...I've had my love/hate affair with 9R02R132760-'69 Mach 1...a pre-"drag-pack"....January San Jose car....in 4 yrs. it's killed 3 turbo Porsches & 2 C-5 vettes, and a F348 here in W. Marin Co. on the "twisties" to the beach. She's Wembleton white (correct), gloss black&cleared hood (incorrect), alum. rear slats, sport seat, factory adj. spoiler, factory shaker
I've replaced 100% of the running gear...100%...new leafs, 9" w/ Daytona pinion & Detroit locker, 3.91 Ford gear set, Comp. Engr. sliding link bars, Koni's, 15" Magnum 500's, new drums, new Lockhead brake cyls., new SSBC slotted rotors, new calips, new upper & lower A-arms, urethane everything, new rod ends, new Flaming River 16:1 box, PS, new master cyl., tilt wheel w/ rim blow, 620# springs, new PB master cyl., new radiator, David Kee road race RUGAE2 trans (big toploader, 10 spline) w/ new countershaft cluster, shifter forks & slide rail & Brg. upgrades, new 2&3 gears, McLeod Kevlar disc, 40# (now 36) flywheel, true 428 cu. in. - '74 428 CJ service block w/ reinforced center mains, std. bore, 10:1 TRW's, correct LeMans rods, 1UA crank & hatchet spacer, Crane 296H2 cam, Edelbrock aluminum heads, Perf.RPM intake, Holley 750-HP carb (have original working-fine rare list# 4129 carb), Erson billet roller rockers, Jet Hot ceramic Hooker headers & 2.5" exhaust, new Hurst shifter & Nomex boot (won't pop it out of 2nd like the factory rubber does), new front seats, factory tach, etc., all works.....appraised in March @ 44K.
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|  | RE: keep it. -- Robert, 05/07/2004
If you sell it, you'll spend the rest of your life thinking "I wish I hadn't sold that car." |
|  | And the problem is . . ?? nm -- Orin, 05/07/2004
nm |
| | | RE: And the problem is . . ?? nm -- Boidman Of ATL, 05/07/2004
I will personally JUMP thought my computor monitor into yours and SMACK YA!! if you even get the notion again to sell it.Who go through all that work ,hassle and money just to have someone else come along and reap all the bennefits without getting their hands dirty.Those who just write a check and say they did it all bug the hell out of me. |
| | | | RE: And the problem is . . ?? nm -- Geoff, 05/07/2004
OK, OK! Thanks, I really needed that. I'm coming around again. Now, I'm gonna go slap myself some more for being stupid. |
| | | | | She doesn't like it ? -- Martin Micheelsen, 05/07/2004
From the initial posting I got the impression that the woman in your life hates the car. If that is the case and you actually sell the car, you will probably end up wanting a similar car and you may find that you resent her for having pressured you to sell this one and the ongoing pressure not to buy another one. In the end you may then end up without her - or the car. Do you really want to risk that ? |
| | | | | | RE: She doesn't like it ? -- Geoff, 05/08/2004
Yep, she's just gonna have to accept my "other girl" whether she likes it on not. HA! |
| | | | | | | RE: She doesn't like it ? -- Robert, 05/08/2004
Try leaving parts laying around the house. Then she will be happy when you put them on the car.
Also it seems to desensitize her. (to the parts, get your mind out of the gutter)
I've had a 390 rod and a SpeedPro 2291F on the coffee table for a week and she hasn't said a word. |
| How many 67 390 4speed convertibles? -- 390conv, 05/06/2004
Does anyone know where I can find some production numbers to figure out the rarity of my car. I am considering selling it and want to let interested buyers know. The car is a documented 1967 390/4speed deluxe (Shelby style) Mustang GT convertible.
Thanks for your help! |
| | 940 -- raycfe, 05/06/2004
n/m |
| | Click on the "VIN Reports" link on the right. -- Dave Shoe, 05/07/2004
The 1967-73 VIN Reports (link at right center of page) offers all kinds of stats info on your particular car. Yeah, it costs, but it's comprehensive.
Kevin Marti also sells a book with many Mustang production statistics. Kevin is licensed by Ford with the computerized production database for those years. The book is probably where the "940" statistic came from.
Shoe. |
| Comp or Isky? -- K-SKI, 05/05/2004
I just love what I see here on this site, YOU PEOPLE KNOW KNOW YOUR STUFF!
Any way I would like to know if anyone here has used any Isky cams in their 390 FE's ?
I've tried Comp cams in other motors and really like those cams. But after looking at Isky's profiles they almost look more powerful with better sound.
So anyway I'm looking for the best 270 cam from one of these companies, what will make better power Isky of Comp ? |
| | RE: Comp or Isky? -- giacamo, 05/11/2004
i,v used isky,s in brand x rebilds non fords thay seam to work fine.but for me comp cams seam to really wake up the fe,s....... |
| dual quad - which carbs? -- joe, 05/05/2004
I just purchased a blue thunder dual quad intake for my 66 galaxie 390. The intake is said to be a 427 medium riser replica. I already have a new edelbrock performer 600 carb and I was thinking about getting another to complete this set up. You see 600 holleys on this set up often (from the factory in '68 the were holley BK&BJ 600's) . Is holley the way to go? Or is 450's or 500's a better choice? Even though it would be nice to use the new edelbrock that I have, I want to make the right choice the first time. I'm interested in a lot of power but still want it to have decent street manners. Any suggestions would be appreciated, |
| | RE: dual quad - which carbs? -- joe, 05/06/2004
I see that edelbrock makes some performer series 500's that are designed for a dual set up. Does anyone have experience with these? |
| | | RE: dual quad - which carbs? -- joe, 05/06/2004
There is a great thread on this subject and one guy swears by a pair of Holley 450's. Although they were talking about a low riser intake. Mine's a medium if that makes any difference. |
| | | RE: dual quad - which carbs? -- Gerry Proctor, 05/06/2004
It's difficult for someone without vast carburetor experience to make carbs intended for single quad applications function correctly on mulit-carb setups, Joe. The "average Joe" won't have a lot of luck because the idle and main circuits are different since instead of one carb's circuit contributing to the proper idle and cruise you have two carbs doing it and you'd have to reason that each carb should contribute half to the equation. There lies the problem. The idle and highspeed air bleeds and metering circuits are different in multi-carb setups so that both carbs meter the same air and fuel flow.
As you've already noted, both Holley and Edelbrock offer different carbs for multi-carb setups for this very reason.
It's possible for someone to have a dual quad work okay with single quad carbs but the difference between these "functional" setups and one using correct dual quads is like night and day. |
| | | | RE: dual quad - which carbs? -- Brian, 05/06/2004
I know that Joe Bunetic can rework regular 600 carbs for dual quad applications, but after you spend the money you could buy repro BJ/BK carbs. Does anyone have the specs on what needs to be changed on the idle/main circuits to make standard 600's work? |
| | | | | RE: Air bleeds, primarily. -- Gerry Proctor, 05/07/2004
And unless you are an expert carb tuner (like near the level that NASCAR and NHRA teams are constantly on the phone to you and people use your name in bench racing, like Bunetic), then it's best to pay the money for the experts. |
| need help with engine selection -- Dogface, 05/05/2004
hi, need some help picking a engine for a futer toy.. but i dont want to end up with a hard to build / maintain eng. that cant produce much HP . iwas thinking 460 or 4.6L or 5.0L
so if any one wants to help
i would like that |
| | RE: need help with engine selection -- giacamo, 05/05/2004
Dogface i have a 97 mercury with a 4.6 i really like the 4.6 and think it would make a great engin for a project.i think it would fit nice betwean a mod a frame. just a thought? |
| Subframe connectors -- Dano, 05/05/2004
Is it necessary to install subframe connectors on a 69 Mustang for street use? I will be having my 390 dynoed in a few weeks and it will probably be making around 450hp, I have 15" wheels and using a 4 speed. I don't think it should be a problem with street tires but wanted to get any opinions on this. |
| | RE: Subframe connectors -- McQ, 05/07/2004
I don't believe you need the subframe connectors for your '69 390/450 horse 'stang....unless....you are going to do some serious drag racing with 9-10" - up slicks. And if you plan to install traction improving/wheel hopping reducing devices, i.e., traction bars/cal-tracs, etc., then you may want to consider stiffening the unibody with the connectors. If your car is an original big block car, you shouldn't need them. |
| | | RE: Subframe connectors -- Dano, 05/08/2004
Thanks McQ, I have installed some Competition Engineering cal trac style bars, to avoid wheelhop, maybe I should install the subframe connectors, I just don't like the idea of welding things on. My car still has the original floorpan and torque boxes etc, and in very good shape, but probably better safe than sorry. |
| | | | RE: Subframe connectors -- McQ, 05/08/2004
I don't think I would cut/weld original solid '69 big block Mustang floor pans. And know that I'm not a purist in anyway who has a thing about concours resto cars.
If your car was an original small block or six popper 'stang that has been converted to the big block, then by all means cut into those floors to add the subframe connectors! But if it's an -S- code 390IP,-Q/R- code with solid floors....don't do it. It sounded like you're mainly using it for street running fun with 15" wheels and some wheel hop reducing cal tracs. If your car were an original CJ/4 speed car it would have the staggered rear shocks which took care of a lot of the wheel hop problems inherent with the big block/stick Mustangs/Fairlanes.
Think about it....Ed Terry's '68 -R- code CJ Mustang match raced with a tunnel port 500 horse + 427 running 11 flat in 1968. There were mods to the leaf springs with traction bars but there were no subframe connectors being used. Do you really think you'll be launching your '69 at 5 grand, shifting at 7?
This is just my opinion regarding your car. The key is, it's your car, you do whatever you want to do.
Good luck! |
| | | | | RE: Subframe connectors -- Dano, 05/09/2004
McQ, thanks for the info, I think I will leave it alone. It is an original S code 4speed car, and you are right, I will be running 15" wheels, with street tires, and definatly will not be launching the car at 6000 rpm. I was just wondering because I haven't run the car yet with the rebuilt engine, and I know 450hp will be a lot more than it had in stock form. |
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