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![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=27095&Reply=27095><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>Odd distributor</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>Terry J, <i>03/30/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm new here and I've been reading as much as I can , soaking in the info. My dilema is that I would like to use, in my 454, an old dual point distributor that I've had for years. It was made by "CRAGAR"[yes the wheel company] but I need a cap and rotor. The cap is 3/8in. smaller than the Ford and Mallory and it clips on.Any suggestions? Also, would anyone know the approx. book advertised compression ratio for the TRW L2298F .030 stroker pistons with high riser heads or care to guess? What compression would the original pistons,C3ae-6110-BJ, have been with the high riser heads? Thanks for your time. </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=lIhYVYeLZitD6XlgNHhEd1X2UoMZnyQ7ckL_x1Y_HguUuV-0Qxw61Megjb-Ox5hDKXpKYMp7j4fE-9xGLaBCH7ibaggF5GQJAd3CL1YLCPVW9sAr33AyeHvW3PJFPojN0&t=637814653746327080) |  Odd distributor -- Terry J, 03/30/2006
I'm new here and I've been reading as much as I can , soaking in the info. My dilema is that I would like to use, in my 454, an old dual point distributor that I've had for years. It was made by "CRAGAR"[yes the wheel company] but I need a cap and rotor. The cap is 3/8in. smaller than the Ford and Mallory and it clips on.Any suggestions? Also, would anyone know the approx. book advertised compression ratio for the TRW L2298F .030 stroker pistons with high riser heads or care to guess? What compression would the original pistons,C3ae-6110-BJ, have been with the high riser heads? Thanks for your time. |
| ![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=27101&Reply=27095><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>Accel, maybe? Not familiar with their older models, myself. [n/m]</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>03/31/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=5j1V7IJBhc-qdmzmrXlobrjmMNnAJtOxg5Y870Sbthe_lMVihEPPJ4bm7mnm6LuGOaajNfBXkHygT71EObEyfwHEzSgMBLeottOqxRxqbDOJpfQBW0hXMFFeQyzowxrM0&t=637814653746327080) | Accel, maybe? Not familiar with their older models, myself. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/31/2006
n/m |
| | | When in doubt try Ford or Mopar cap and rotor.... -- Hawkrod, 03/31/2006
Back in the day the aftermarket used Ford or Mopar for 99% of the caps and rotors. Go to the parts store and ask for a 1970 440 cap and rotor and see if that works. Hawkrod |
| | | | Hey, yeah - that's a good bet. Definitely smaller diameter. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/03/2006
n/m |
| | | | | RE: Hey, yeah - that's a good bet. Definitely smaller ... -- Terry J, 04/03/2006
Thanks guys! I'll check it out. Any ideas on the compression? |
| | | | | | Tried asking TRW? Here's one of their support numbers... -- Mr F, 04/08/2006
1-800-TRW-0899 |
| | | | | |  | RE:Found a dist. cap...Thanks Hawkrod and Mr F -- Terry J, 04/13/2006
A Mopar cap fits the FE CRAGAR distributor. |
 | FE intakes -- hans bell, 03/29/2006
I am currently building a Ford FE 390 for 67' mustang and am looking for a tunnel ram dual carb intake....any help ould be great |
|  | RE: FE intakes -- hot428ford, 03/29/2006
It depends on how deep your pockets are ? The 2x4 427 intakes are running about 500$ to 1200$ and if you want factory carbs ? the crossram that i'm fond of cost about the same for a eldebrock and 1200 if you can find one from micky thompson back in the FE good days .. |
| | RE: FE intakes -- Big Dave, 04/04/2006
A while back, I saw a 351 cleveland tunnel ram intake adapted to fit an FE. He used some kind of aluminum spacer that seemed to be made of cast aluminum, and not homemade. I saw it on ebay, so I have no idea how to contact him. So you might want to try looking for that. Also, Try Hogan Racing Manifolds, they make tunnel ram intakes out of sheet metal and can set it up for nitrous and fuel injection if you like. They are kind of pricey, though. Good Luck. |
| xe engines -- walt, 03/28/2006
if i supply the part number or other,can ny one help me to find out what i have? |
| | Maybe, Walt - depends on the part(s). 'XE' info is scarce. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/28/2006
n/m |
| re: History Channel pilot -- Barbara Hughes, 03/28/2006
We are a TV production company that is seeking men whose hobby is looking for treasure amidst trash for History Channel pilot.
We are trying to find people with very visual and distinctive methods of finding items – garage sale shopping to auto junkyard salvage.
We are especially on the lookout for those men who may be into restoring classic mustangs!
If you or someone you know would be great for this TV program, please email fgcasting@yahoo.com. |
| | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- brad grier, 03/30/2006
I read and answered this call and they emailed me back immediately (same day)asking for my picture and a picture of my car.
They said they were not filming in Canada (where I am from) but still wanted photos.
I will send them in...nothing to lose I guess. |
| | | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- Doug B, 03/31/2006
Nothing to lose but your car? I'd investigate more. Why would a production company be using a Yahoo email account? This smells fishy to me. Don't send any info on your car until they provide you with adequate creditentials. |
| | | | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- Brad Grier, 03/31/2006
Too late! Already have heard back from them and I checked my garage.........cars' still there! |
| | | | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- Barbara Hughes, 04/03/2006
Doug,
This is our company's website where you can check our credientials out.
http://www.filmgarden.tv
We use a yahoo account because we were doing over 50 different postings on many different sites with four to five researchers and it would overwhelm our own work emails trying to answer all the responses.
|
| | | | | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- Doug B, 04/03/2006
Barbara,
Thanks for clearing up the validity of your business. No one should fault me for being cautious especially with the prices of the Muscle Cars these days and all of the scams. It's good to see you are an up front person and respond as you've done.
Thanks,
Doug |
| | | | | | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- Barbara Hughes, 04/04/2006
Not a problem Doug!
Thanks,
Barbara Hughes
Film Garden Entertainment |
| | RE: re: History Channel pilot -- giacamo, 04/01/2006
im kinda like doug. some things my junkyard dog and me only know what i have lying around........ |
| valve lash for 69 mach 1 -- bino, 03/27/2006
does anyone know the valve lash of the 69 mach 1 351W-2V V8 engine? |
| | Lash? You mean lifter preload. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/27/2006
Hydraulic cams are adjusted with zero lash, then a specified additional adjustment past zero lash to achieve a specificed lifter preload of anywhere from .020 to .080, depending on the lifters being used. For your appliction, I'm assuming that it's stock and if that's the case, you'd usually crank the rocker nut down 3/4 to one turn past zero lash. This should put you in the .060 to .080 preload zone.
There are various rocker setups used on smallblocks, and while some are adjustable for preload, some are not. Depending on what setup you have, you will want to consult your service manual or the main forum so that you know what you have. |
| none -- walt, 03/26/2006
has anyone herard of john vermeercsh,taking a boss 429 body mustang to tennessee,and haveing it stripped at a swap meet,it was supposed to had a med riser in it,all he wanted was the body?this is another chain puller,cause i knew the guy who had it,haven't talked at him for 25 yrs |
| Ford 460 with "Thermactor Plug Heads"? -- Bryan Mooney, 03/25/2006
I have a 1970 Lincoln Coupe with a Ford 460 4 barrel. It has what sounds like a bad manifold leak but has all new eshaust. The mufffler installer told me tha the noise is coming from a 43/64th hole in the fron of the head that the Ford dealer called a Thermactor plug. Where would I get one of these plugs for a 1970 Ford 460? Help? Bryan in Seattle |
| | If your DMV doesn't require T/E, you could tap it for a plug. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/25/2006
n/m |
| casting numbers -- robert decker, 03/25/2006
Can any one id these numbers.(C5AE-9425-L)and also (C7ZX-9425-A).Any help is much appreciated. |
| C4, nope...surprise...it's a C6 -- Jimmay, 03/25/2006
I just found out my tranny attached to my '65 fastback with a 289 is a C6. Fine...until I saw the tranny crossmember from hell...cracked and apparently fabricated from scratch by some evil genius. Is there anyone that sells C6 tranny crossmembers for '65-'66 mustangs with 289's that will allow me to safely use a C6, as well as mount my parking brake cables?? |
| El Mongo radiator - worth the trouble? -- Mike, 03/24/2006
[note: i just posted this on the 'Galaxie Archives' website as well]
Howdy all - seeking advise on this one. Im a big junkyard hounddog and like looking for deals. Im in need a replacment radiator for my '64 Galaxie with 390. While at the yard today, i found a very big 4 row copper/brass radiator out of a older F350 tow truck. It had the inlet/outlet and tranny cooler connection lines in the right locations - so i decided to get it for $35 + $10 for the shroud. Its in great shape from what i can see - and the coolant came out neon green.
SO - as you would expect, this thing is about 5 inches wider, and 1 1/2inches thicker than my original. It fits very snugly after i move a battery brace out of the way.
Problems are that i will have to get abit longer radiator hoses, And the tranny lines dont quite reach the inlets (about 4 inches shy) on the 'new' radiator. I will have to figure out a way of extending these tranny lines, or maybe rerouting them abit.
I will also have to fabricate some braces for it to keep it in place.
Also - the stock four blade fan is only about 1/2 inch from the radiator fins now. So heres the question - i really like how good shape this radiator is, and that its old school brass/copper. Ive heard 4 rows are great for cooling - and i do get hot humid summers here in DC.
One - I dont mind doing 'monster garage' type stuff, and i do have access to a full shop where i can work on a lift etc, but would all this adjustment be worth whatever a benefit of a 4 row brass/copper Large radiator would get me in cooling capacity?
Two - i read somewhere that if the radiator is really thick, the stock fan may not be able to pull the hot air off of it quickly enough, and you wont benefit from the extra rows.
Three - is it good or bad to have the fan so close to the radiator fins?
Oh yeah - this radiator i would say weighs almost twice what my other one did. Thats actually a reason i will probably swap this out with a good aluminum one. But im low on dough now, and I can always get the $400 or so good alumnium one down the road. Main reason Ill switch it out eventually is im interested in lightening this big gal up (eventually) as much as possible. So far ive replaced stock intake manifold, and fiberglass bumper in rear.
Thanks for any advise on this radiator situation. |
| | RE: El Mongo radiator - worth the trouble? -- Gerry Proctor, 03/27/2006
It's nice to have excess cooling capacity. If the rest of the cooling system is in shape, you could probably keep the engine from overheating even in a traffic jamb in Hell. But do you really need it? And, as you've already discovered, there's a weight penalty that comes with that extra capacity. If you don't mind carrying the extra weight, then you don't have a problem.
Thick radiators do inhibit air flow, but to what extent that affects cooling depends on the radiator's fin construction. Very tight fins tend not to cool the rear tubes very well. You find very tight fins in pavement circle track radiators. And here, they add thickness (or tubes) only to the extent that they are effective. Factory radiators use a fairly loose pack. Dirtrack cars use a very loose pack so that dirt and debris don't clog the fins. You won't have a flow problem with a factory four-core radiator.
The fan should be no closer than about an two inches from the radiator. There is no benefit to having it closer and having it closer opens up a lot of opporunity for you to have fan to radiator contct. A shroud is a very good idea if you can fit one. The blades of the fan should be about half way inside the shroud. Running a shroud allows you to put the fan far away from the radiator and to pull air from the entire cooling surface of the radiator.
Radiators are an engineered product whether it's being done by a race team or the factory. Engineers know how much heat an engine makes in all driving conditions. All you need to do is to use a radiator that has sufficient BTU characteristics to handle that heat. If it's done right with a good margin of excess cooling capacity, an engine will not exceed the thermostat opening temperature and will be easy to keep at operating temperature regardless of the situation.
In your case, it does appear that you are well in excess of what you need, but if it's working for you then so be it. |
| | RE: El Mongo radiator - worth the trouble? -- Mike, 03/29/2006
Hey Gerry - thanks for such a detailed and informative response - thats about exactly what i was looking for.
I think the way im going to treat this - is just wire up this mongo radiator up For Now - without doing any real serious modifications - and then when i have enough money - either get a normal recored galaxie radiator, or a new Griffin/similar aluminium radiator that i will hide under a shroud - so it doesnt look too non-stock.
The more i fiddle with this huge radiator, the more i realize im going to have to modify things to really get it to stay secure - for now i think a few mods, and mostly wire/zip ties to hold it in place - until i get something else. I will report back as to what the difference in temperature is from a stock normal brass radiator, to this huge 4-core one.
I can always sell this one later - or i could stuff in my F150.
Thanks again - Mike |
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