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 |  parts I.D. numbers ? -- hot428ford, 03/24/2006
Is there any book out there that has all the FE parts numbers ??I've looked in all the ones that I have when trying to buy a head are intake but somethime It's not to be found ..Not in any book that I have ...Would love to have 1 book with a complete I.D. listing with all the numbers for my motors ! |
|  | RE: parts I.D. numbers ? -- Lou, 03/24/2006
yes, it's called the Ford Master Parts Catalog. There the 49 to 59, 60 to 64, and the 65 to 73. |
| |  | Master Parts Catalog won't help, sorry -- Royce P, 03/24/2006
It only has part numbers which are not the same as casting numbers.
All the published FE part number books to date are hopelessly filled with errors. Maybe someday a reliable reference will be published.
Royce |
| | Depends on what you are looking up -- Lou, 03/25/2006
and what issue of the Master Parts you have. The yearly books are the best, but hard to come by. |
| | | RE: Depends on what you are looking up -- hot428ford, 03/25/2006
Tell me where I might be able to find one and the name so I can look it up.thanks very much.. |
| | | | Royce got it: MPC is scant help in identifying heads or intakes. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/25/2006
n/m |
| | ![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=27062&Reply=27042><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>BTW, Lou - MPC volumes were sold as 1965-1972 & 1973-1979. [n/m]</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>03/25/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=5j1V7IJBhc-qdmzmrXlobrEDXWlsjAM0cwZlu93GvxT47l6TBLQa0USmEQJkKjgpeHQHOcp3wuaMHUxZ6Qd0im96p6YBJOPo03d73fevaM5wgQVsiU-Ea82TfjcuyCsP0&t=637814653746327080) | BTW, Lou - MPC volumes were sold as 1965-1972 & 1973-1979. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/25/2006
n/m |
| | | | Mr.F, I'm not sure about 65-72 -- Lou, 03/26/2006
but I have 55,56,57, 62 & 63 yearly master parts books, and I just sold a 1973 looseleaf
master parts. |
| | | | | Mr. F is correct -- raycfe, 03/26/2006
The MPC covers a 5 or 6 year span, The yearly ones were for fleet customers, not as complete. I have a couple of both types. |
| | RE: parts I.D. numbers ? -- walt, 03/26/2006
welcome to the confusion |
| | RE: 105 Block (390 ?) -- Bill J, 03/24/2006
ps: what do you think about that date code?
...has it been altered?
...could it be a 1968 block?
Thanks |
| | | RE: 105 Block (390 ?) -- Royce P, 03/24/2006
It is probably a 1976 block. The 6 and 8 are hard to distinguish from one another.
The 105 on the block means it was cast at the Michigan Casting Center which opened in mid 1970, making its first batches of blocks for the 1971 model year.
Royce |
| | |  | RE: 105 Block (390 ?) -- Bill J, 03/25/2006
thanks |
| | | | RE: 105 Block (390 ?) -- walt, 03/26/2006
is it a mirror image 501 block?,thats supposed to be heavy duty truck block,extra goodies in it,just watch if it has the large distritor shaft bore(truck)or pas,light duty truck,smaller dist shaft bore,there is a bushing that fits the truck dist bore,to use in pass service |
| I want to upgrade my cam, any suggestions? -- Promoguz, 03/24/2006
I have a 69 Mach 1 with a 390, and I've been getting a ton of work done to it. Turns out I have to replace a cracked piston so while I'm at it, im considering upgrading my cam and lifters. I'm wondering what suggestions you guys have... I'm pretty clueless about cams, and their specs... so any info is much appreciated! I'm not racing the car, more of a weekend driver but I'd like to get an upgrade in performance but spend moderate money. |
| | We're a bunch of hacks. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/24/2006
Unless someone on this forum is a cam designer and grinder, your best bet is to call some of the cam compaines and get their recommendations. That's what they get paid for.
And if someone on the forum does give you a recommendation, take it for entertainment value only. You're not providing anywhere near the amount of information a cam company will ask in helping you make a good selection. Don't believe me? Go to Comp Cam's website, to their tech section, and look at the form you have to fill out to get a recommendation. |
| | | RE: We're a bunch of hacks. -- promoguz, 03/24/2006
Yeah.. I know that..... Just wanted to pick peoples brains. I've already looked at cranes and edlebrocks cam/lift kits... just wanted to get some insight from people who HAVE upgraded their cams.. sounds like a struck a nerve with ya. |
| | | | RE: comp cams last -- giacamo, 03/24/2006
comp cams preform as avertized wen instaled corect in the fe moter.and seam to last. thear the only cam grinder i try to use in any moter i,v ben very pleased with thear products. |
| | | | | RE: comp cams last -- promoguz, 03/24/2006
thanks for the tip... i actually just heard back from my mechanic doing the work.. and I've got more to worry about than just cams and lifters... turns out i have one cracked piston on the drivers side and 3 others that also need to be replaced... so I'm looking at having to replace all 8 pistons.. boring out the engine a little ... the list goes on and on... so now im looking at more work than i thought i was gonna be dealing with......my wallet is crying! |
| | | | RE: No nerves struck. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/27/2006
When you (and a lot of others) ask, you get only and for the most part a personal preference. Few of us have the sum total camshaft experience to make the best pick for you.
You want a recommendation? Go with a Comp Cams 268H. That is about as fool-proof as it gets for a daily driver street cam...Unless you have a steep rear gear, you like to buzz the engine to 6k rpm, you have good cylinder heads, intake, exhaust, compression in the high nines, ...
Cam companies may not hit the bullseye exactly either but they'll ask a lot of questions to get you a lot closer. |
| | | | | RE: No nerves struck. -- Promoguz, 03/27/2006
Thanks Gerry...
I agree... with what you say about personal preference over expertise... i've been asking around and looks like Comp and crane have gotten the best response... There are several cam companys to choose from... I just wanted to narrow my search... I appreciate the insight!! thanks!! |
| | | RE: We're a bunch of hacks. -- Paul Lovett, 03/24/2006
I don't agree with that. Ever call the Cam companies tech lines? Most of the time, at least with the big companies, you get really poor advice. I think allot of the people here could do better. Try calling the AT&T of cams (Compcams) and you'll see what I mean. I have a Compcams cam by the way so I do like them. But their tech line sucks.
Smaller cam companies tend to be better for cam recommendations. You might get an acutal machinist, engine builder, or cam grinder on the phone when you call. Call Bullet Cams or Reed Cams or somebody similar and you'll get much better advice.
You're right though, in that more info is needed whether it be here or for the cam company.
What is the car going to be used for? Daily driver? street/strip? race? What parts will be in the motor? heads? intake? carb? compression ratio? headers? what kind of exhaust system? How about the gear ratio? tranny? stall speed if an auto? Are there power accessories requiring good engine vacuum at idle (power brakes)? How much rpm is the engine intended and built to run at?
Does it have forged pistons? roller rockers? etc.?
The more data you give us = a better recommendation
Paul
|
| | | | HEre are more details and specs -- Promoguz, 03/27/2006
thanks paul,
well here is a little more info
The car is more of a weekend car. take it to a couple of cruise nights, small trips here and there.. I don't intend to race it, but I don't mind Peeling out ever once in a while for the fun of it.
I've got stock heads for my 69 mach 1 390. Same goes for the intake Manifold. Carb is a Edlebrock 650CFM. Cermanic Coated Hooker Headers... Magnaflow 2.5 inche exhaust. 3.25 gears, 4 Speed manual, Powerbrakes... as for compression ratio.... I'm thinking its something like 10-1... I can't remember the stock specs... as for RPM's the motors supose to run at...... Haven't a clue.
As for Pistons.. I just found out I gotta get a new set. In short, the guides for my valve stems were allowing to much play as well as a bunch of burnt oil started accumalating unther the valve stems.. so I wasn't getting a good seal ... so basically Im getting new guides put on the heads, and it looks like one of my pistons cracked and the other 3 on the passenger side are no good. so i gotta get a new set of pistons as well.
Everything else is pretty much stock... oh and the original cam was hydralic.
LEt me know if that info helps! |
| | | | | RE: Well, in your case I would look at the CC 268H -- Gerry Proctor, 03/27/2006
Good improvement at off idle and in the low midrange from the tighter 110-degree lobe separation angle. A very slight exhaust note and will work fine with your gearset. In a 390, the rpm will peak at about 5k rpm but the 600 cfm carb will make it feel a bit soft over 4.5k rpm anyway.
In your case, I'd favor the CC over the Crane. Comp has a very good handle on the street market with most of their grinds using a 110 LSA. And most of the not too radical grinds work very well as a bit over stock improvement. Crane tends to use wider LSAs, which work fine if you have good heads and are willing to give up some of the low speed torque.
My preference is Crane, and is what I use, but I admit that they aren't the best choice in a lot of street applications. |
| | | | | RE: HEre are more details and specs -- Paul Lovett, 03/27/2006
I agree with Gerry! LOL! Sounds like the Compcams 268 High Energy would work good. Since you have a 4 speed, you could go slightly larger if you wanted a rougher idle or a little more top end power, like the Compcams 270 Magnum. From what you've said about the motor and car (mostly stock except for exhaust) , sounds like the 268 would be more of a sure bet.
Another choice would be the Crane 272 Energizer (# 134052) It has 272/272 degrees advertised, 216/216 degrees @ 0.050", 110 degree lobe separation and a 105 degree intake centerline. It has a little more lift than the Compcams at .524" (with 1.73 rockers).
I like the single pattern cams for your application since you have stock heads and intake, but also headers and good exhaust. No need for you to add extra exhaust duration to crutch stock manifolds and pipes.
On another note, if you have your heads out of the car for repairs, it'd be a great time for a little porting. Some pocket-porting and a little cleanup can really help flow with no downside other than the time and cost. Just a thought.
Good luck and let us know what you decide to do,
Paul |
| Hydraulic Clutch in FE 428 '69 Mustang -- 'Shine Runner, 03/20/2006
Looking to chat with someone who has installed a hydraulic clutch into their '69 Mustang. I have a 428 CJ with a Tremec TKO and am considering the switch. Would like to hear from you. |
| | RE: Hydraulic Clutch in FE 428 '69 Mustang -- mick, 03/24/2006
I tried the same conversion on my 69 fastback 428 with world class T5. Fitted a 3/4"master cylinder from JMC Mustang , San Diego . Was running a Hays long style pressure plate and clutch with F100 clutch fork and 78 Aussie Falcon slave cylinder on a home made bracket. It worked but much too heavy for street use. Have since changed to a late model F150 diaphragm plate and clutch with a Howe racing hydraulic throw-out bearing. The shim kit provided is tricky to install for continuous trouble free use so I fitted a screw-adjuster and the whole set - up works and certainly OK for heavy traffic. |
| What do you do about Hookers? -- John C, 03/20/2006
Will Hooker Competition Plus headers for the 390 fit correctly on the Edelbrock RPM Performer aluminum heads? |
| | Yes -- Royce P, 03/21/2006
N/m |
| | Hookers?? Where ? -- Tony P., 03/21/2006
Ooops Sorry, I see you're referering to headers, had to check out this post, thought maybe you were on the wrong forum. |
| | RE: What do you do about Hookers? -- giacamo, 03/23/2006
i have a set of hooker supercomps on my cyclone thay work well but i feal thay hang to low for streat use, and are a nightmare to hook up with out my special bent wrenches.. |
| '69 S code vs Q code air cleaners? -- Peter M, 03/20/2006
Are the S code mustang air cleaners assembly the same as the Q code mustang air cleaners assembly?
Thanks
Peter. |
| | Must be to hard a Question or to simpler answern/m -- Peter, 03/21/2006
n/m |
| | | Yes and No is the correct answer -- Hawkrod, 03/22/2006
The snorkel are slightly different because the S code has a stepdown ring welded on to it but remove the ring and you have a CJ unit. the bowls are the same for early CJ's but part way through 69 model year ford added a choke bimetal valve in the bowl of the air cleaner and a little tab to attach the hose to. So the answer is if you have an early 69 then the air cleaner bowls are the same and you can make the snorkel the same with minor work. One last point i may make is you should give people an opportunity to respond, we do not get paid and we some here when we get a chance. A little patience and some honey would probably be in your best interest. Snide comments won't get you very far. Hawkrod |
| | | | Peter's a long-time participant. I doubt he was being rude. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/22/2006
n/m |
| | | | | RE: Peter's a long-time participant. I doubt he was being rude. [n/m] -- hot428ford, 03/22/2006
All I know is that i'm impressed with the knowledge around this site .....If any body needs to know about the pipeline construction industry That BE my #1 area of expertise but we hotrod caterpillars....But Do drive a 67GTA thats perfect because of everbodys know how and advise...Thanks from a south TX. red neck. |
| James, Got A Question? -- K-SKI, 03/19/2006
James..........
I saw how you said you used the Comp Cams 268AH-10 in a 428 and had great results, even better than with the Lunati grind.
I have a 65 F-100, 352fe, no power brakes or any thing else vacuum assisted, 3-speed manual & 3.50 gears 2wd and around 4,000lbs. I want a very strong 390 to replace it. I have checked out some crate engines and they are pretty pricy or they aren't up to par on power wise. So with great machine shops around I'm building my own!
So never had built an FE engine or used Comp Cams in one, I don't know what to expect, do they react different than say a 350sbc to caming, thats all I have built in the past as a kid. I've used the 270mag in a 350sbc with great results.
My build will be a 390 with around 9.5cr, Edelbrock RPM heads & intake with a 650cfm carb. I will be doing all the oiling mods and beefing up the bottom end. I'm thiking I want to use this 268AH-10 specialty cam with .544 lift from Comp. Thinking the RPM heads could utilize more lift than the 270mags .519 lift can offer.
My main QUESTIONS are, will this cam act like a 270mag at idle & at low-mid rpm powr wise, with more top end kick? How does the idle sound? Have you ever used this cam in a 390? What do you think the rpm power band is with the 268AH-10? And what kind of horse power do you think I'll make?
I know I'm dumping alot of questions on ya, but your the only one I know of using that cam in an FE !
Thanks for any info you can give me James! |
| | RE: James, Got A Question? -- giacamo, 03/23/2006
i dont have much knowlage of the 268 comp but the 265h comp works good with the 352 moter with a set of springs to mach. |
| 390 Code Question -- Ryan, 03/18/2006
Hello:
a guy near me is selling what he claims is a Real S-code 67 Mustang engine.
The heads are listed as C6AE-U
Looks correct -Intake has large S on it reads C6AE-9425-G
Looks correct :Exhaust read C6OE-9430 I think they are 14 bolt pattern
I have a scode mustang and want to be sure this the right engine. I couldn't find any numbers on block...it was dirty.
Were the C6AE-U heads correct for the 390 mustang? They have the 14 bolt pattern exhaust manifolds bolted on them. I need to know by monday if i'm going to buy.
Thanks!
Ryan |
| | RE: 390 Code Question -- Ryan, 03/18/2006
Also forgot it got the correct bellhousing with C6OA-6394-D bellhousing attached that was listed with 11 1/2 clutch for 390 |
| | RE: 390 Code Question -- Junkman, 03/18/2006
If the price was right, I'd buy it |
| | RE: 390 Code Question -- Gerry Proctor, 03/20/2006
Casting numbers for FEs can helpful in telling you what something is not, but rarely helpful in telling you what is.
It probably is a 390GT, but it could also be something else.
Some clues will be in what else is on the engine.
If it still has the assembly tag still on the coil bracket, that will help decode the application and configuration.
It should also have a Holley carb with a Ford stamping number on the air horn (like C6OF...).
The engine should also have chrome valve covers, open element air cleaner with a chrome top, and chrome dipstick handle.
What you know for sure is that the engine came out of a '66 Fairlane and only a '66 Fairlane. The casting codes and the 14-bolt exhaust flange give that away.
The "S" on the intake means nothing. All Ford FE 4bbl iron intakes used the same casting number.
What made a 390 an S-code for most 390s is the cam, carb, and valve springs. Casting numbers would be otherwise the same.
If the price is fair, I'd probably buy it since it probably is an S-code. |
| | | RE: 390 Code Question -- Ryan, 03/20/2006
Gerry:
Thanks for the info. Another question I have is how do I know for certain that it came out of 66 fairlane? Were these heads used on early 67 390 GT Mustangs. Some people say yeah??
Also, some stated If it has the 14 bolt pattern in the head then it would be correct for a 67 390 if the date match up?
The carb is missing, though the guy might one for the engine that would be holly 4150 correct. Also the vave covers are missing. Everything else is there correct 11 1/2 cltuch bellhousing for S code. I need to get the info off the blcok yet.
Thanks!
Ryan |
| | | | RE: 390 Code Question -- Gerry Proctor, 03/20/2006
People have said that early production used late prior year production. Maybe. I don't know. I've never seen an example myself and all the stories I've heard have been anecdotal. Look up the date casting codes to see when it was cast. You'll usually find all the parts are no more than two weeks apart and that the engine was mated to a car within a two-week window. Later dates are not all that uncommon, but Ford wasn't in the habit of letting inventory sit around waiting for an installation.
I doubt they engine is a Mustang engine but the date codes will tell for sure. Not that it matters since there was no difference between a Fairlane and Mustang 390 GT engine.
The 14-bolt head was used in all unibody cars (Mustang/Fairlane) from '66 through '71. The only other unibody head is the 16-bolt 428 Cobra Jet and the 427 installed in the Fairlane.
As to the clutch...there is only one bellhousing used on unibody FEs and it doesn't matter whether it had a 3-speed or a 4-speed. The only other FE bellhousings were the big car housings that mounted the equalizer on the bellhousing, and the truck housings which were 5/8" shorter than car housings. |
| FE 68 Mustang PS or no PS?? -- Junkman, 03/17/2006
I'm trying to decide if I really want to go through the trouble and expense of adding power steering to my 67 Shelby clone that I building out of a 68 Fastback. Shelbys came with PS and a mandatory option. (I wonder why). You know those cars that were built with "no expense spared"? Well mine is not one of them. I'm on a budget, so if I don't absolutely NEED PS, I can live without it, but at the same time I don't want to be driving a truck that looks like a Shelby. I see that all of the Mustang Parts houses sell a kit to remove PS. Why?
The car will have a 428CJ in it with a 1 3/4 UCA drop, roller spring perches, 620 springs KYB shocks, and custom strut rods with wide tires. How hard will this car be to steer? Anyone with an FE and no PS? What does it feel like? |
| | I'd definitely suggest using P/S with wide, sticky (modern) tires. [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/17/2006
n/m |
| | RE: FE 68 Mustang PS or no PS?? -- kelly, 03/17/2006
Fine if youre moving but a bear to park and drive at parking lot speeds
Kelly |
| | RE: FE 68 Mustang PS or no PS?? -- Bic, 03/19/2006
My car, a 69 Cobra Jet, came with power steering. When I drag raced it back in the 1970s I converted the car to manual steering. The car is now restored back to original condition but I left the power steering off. I am 59 years old and have no problem driving the car without it and the engine compartment looks cleaner IMHO. One more thing.....no leaks. |
| | Depends on the transmission.... -- John Bednorz, 03/22/2006
IMO if you have a manual transmission PS is a must. No way you can steer with one hand and shift with the other. If you have an auto and can use both hands all the time you can get by. You will learn to avoid parallel parking and U-turns. |
| 428 CJ high Volume Fuel Pump. Big Difference? -- Junkman, 03/14/2006
The 69 CJ engine I found was missing its 4441S Carter pump and looked like it had a regular service pump on it. Is there a big difference in fuel pumps between these and what you get over the counter? Is there a replacement pump that works better that is not electric? |
| | The difference between the 4441S -- Tim, 03/15/2006
and the one Peter is talking about is about $500 bucks, other than that none asperformance goes. |
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