These are the old FoMoCo Obsolete Forums and are being hosted by JCOConsulting.com. While you're here, check out my articles or have a look around at some of the Ford Stuff we have for sale. You might find something you can't live without.

Skip Navigation Links.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26942&Reply=26942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Cougar and Musgtang glass interchange?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Junkman, <i>03/06/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can anyone tell me if 67/68 cougar glass will interchange with 67/68 Mustang coupes? </blockquote> Cougar and Musgtang glass interchange? -- Junkman, 03/06/2006
Can anyone tell me if 67/68 cougar glass will interchange with 67/68 Mustang coupes?
 windshield, Vent window, and door is same -- Hawkrod, 03/07/2006
Quarter glass and back window are different. Hawkrod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26940&Reply=26940><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Are 4 speed shifters different for console use?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>WACO, Simi Valley CA., <i>03/06/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am in the process of buying a stock 4 speed shifter for use in a stock console for a 67 390 mustang. Is there any difference in 4 speed shifters designed for a console? I've seen auto shifters on E Bay that claim they are unique for console applications. Thanx, WACO in SIMI CA. </blockquote> Are 4 speed shifters different for console use? -- WACO, Simi Valley CA., 03/06/2006
I am in the process of buying a stock 4 speed shifter for use in a stock console for a 67 390 mustang. Is there any difference in 4 speed shifters designed for a console? I've seen auto shifters on E Bay that claim they are unique for console applications. Thanx, WACO in SIMI CA.
 Are 4 speed shifters different for console use? NO -- Royce P, 03/06/2006
N/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26935&Reply=26935><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Blue Thunder intake on a 67 390 PCV Setup??</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Justin G, <i>03/05/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am switching to a Blue Thunder intake on a 67 390 PCV Questions.<br><br>I have a 67 Mustang GT 390 4 Speed with the stock intake and PCV setup.<br><br>If I switch to a Blue Thunder intake (427 MR 4V) what do I need to do with the PCV system? Will I need to replace everything? Are the parts available? Would I use the block off plate for the rear ventilation or would I use the PCV adapter plate?<br><br>What is the recomended PCV setup with the Blue Thunder or PI intakes? <br><br>I am not as concerned with original as I am an effective correct setup.<br><br>Thanks <br> </blockquote> Blue Thunder intake on a 67 390 PCV Setup?? -- Justin G, 03/05/2006
I am switching to a Blue Thunder intake on a 67 390 PCV Questions.

I have a 67 Mustang GT 390 4 Speed with the stock intake and PCV setup.

If I switch to a Blue Thunder intake (427 MR 4V) what do I need to do with the PCV system? Will I need to replace everything? Are the parts available? Would I use the block off plate for the rear ventilation or would I use the PCV adapter plate?

What is the recomended PCV setup with the Blue Thunder or PI intakes?

I am not as concerned with original as I am an effective correct setup.

Thanks
 Just the PCV? -- Gerry Proctor, 03/06/2006
PCV can come from any manifold vacuum source, either on the carburetor or the intake. The closed portion of the PCV will still come from the valve cover.

The PCV adapter plate solves the PCV problem for some folks in that it provides a PCV crankcase exposure from some place other than the valve cover, which would be for those using the "baldy" valve covers. If you're using the factory covers that have the PCV valve gromet and the closed breather hose gromet on the fill tube, it's not an issue for you. Just an option.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26933&Reply=26933><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Machining Questions</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John C, <i>03/04/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I had my 67 Fastback's 390 engine bored 030 over and new cam bearings installed. <br><br>I purchased a set of Edelbrock Performer heads and intake. I actually am duplicating the roller motor as depicted in Hot Rod's January 2003 issue. I have a ton of expensive parts that I purchased....man!<br><br>I am not an engine expert.<br><br>I was wondering if I should also have the engine deck blocked? I'm worried about a reduction of compression with the new aluminum heads. <br><br>Although my machine shop came highly recommended, I thought the machinist was a little lazy with me. <br><br>He felt that decking the block would not really accomplish that much. He also felt that balancing the rotating assembly was probably not necessary.<br><br>I didn't drop $7,000.00 grand in parts to build a under-powered engine. <br><br>Will you fellows help get me on the right track with this engine? I need some advise. What instructions should I give the machine shop to get the most out of my build? <br><br>I am looking to build a high performance street application with a compression that is in the pump gas range.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>John </blockquote> Machining Questions -- John C, 03/04/2006
I had my 67 Fastback's 390 engine bored 030 over and new cam bearings installed.

I purchased a set of Edelbrock Performer heads and intake. I actually am duplicating the roller motor as depicted in Hot Rod's January 2003 issue. I have a ton of expensive parts that I purchased....man!

I am not an engine expert.

I was wondering if I should also have the engine deck blocked? I'm worried about a reduction of compression with the new aluminum heads.

Although my machine shop came highly recommended, I thought the machinist was a little lazy with me.

He felt that decking the block would not really accomplish that much. He also felt that balancing the rotating assembly was probably not necessary.

I didn't drop $7,000.00 grand in parts to build a under-powered engine.

Will you fellows help get me on the right track with this engine? I need some advise. What instructions should I give the machine shop to get the most out of my build?

I am looking to build a high performance street application with a compression that is in the pump gas range.

Thanks,

John
 RE: Machining Questions -- John, 03/04/2006
Your machinist is probably giving you "his" honest opinion, as he's losing money by not performing these operations. My opinion is different (just as many future thread writers may have differnet opnions...LOL). I think balancing is a very good idea, especially as you have new pistons going in. Balancing is fairly cheap too. Now as far as decking the block, I would only do it if the block deck wasn't true (i.e. warped). A steeel straight edge and a feeler gauge will tell you that, although basically if the straight edge lies true and no light comes through, it's fine. The other reason, as you stated, would be for compression reasons. For iron heads, about 9.5:1 is a good CR,....for aluminum, about 10:1. You need to do some calculations with your desired CR to select the proper pistons or heads you want. Since you've already purchased everyting, you may want to use the head information (dome volume), and maybe exchange the pistons if things dont work out. If the CR is a bit high, there are thicker head gaskets available,...if too low, you need to use either different pisotns or different heads. Another good operation that's fairly inexpensive is to have the block line honed.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26936&Reply=26933><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>A lot depends on what your intentions are.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/06/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>First off, you can't deck the block for deck height until you mock up the engine.  You'd need to know where the pistons are in the bore and how much deck height you need to achieve a desired compression and quench area.  Once you have all the numbers, you tear the engine back down and take the block back to the machinist for the decking operation.  You can also have the block decked to achieve a deck that's square to the crank.  You are talking blueprint operations here and your machinist may have evaluated these operations in light of how you will be using the engine and come to the conclusion that there's not enough return on investment for you.<br><br>Balancing may be the same issue but it's hard to say.  If the engine won't see a lot of time over 6k rpm, precision balancing may not be all that critical.  It really depends on what pistons and rods you are using and how close they are in weight to the factory pieces.  In my opinion, balancing is always money well spent...in most cases. </blockquote> A lot depends on what your intentions are. -- Gerry Proctor, 03/06/2006
First off, you can't deck the block for deck height until you mock up the engine. You'd need to know where the pistons are in the bore and how much deck height you need to achieve a desired compression and quench area. Once you have all the numbers, you tear the engine back down and take the block back to the machinist for the decking operation. You can also have the block decked to achieve a deck that's square to the crank. You are talking blueprint operations here and your machinist may have evaluated these operations in light of how you will be using the engine and come to the conclusion that there's not enough return on investment for you.

Balancing may be the same issue but it's hard to say. If the engine won't see a lot of time over 6k rpm, precision balancing may not be all that critical. It really depends on what pistons and rods you are using and how close they are in weight to the factory pieces. In my opinion, balancing is always money well spent...in most cases.
 Thanks Gerry Proctor & John -- John C, 03/06/2006
Thanks guys for the information.
 390 rod bearings....No V notch on the repacements? -- BigB, 03/04/2006
I just got my .010 replacement bearings, but I noticed they are not notched like my old ones.

Is that a problem or is there a more appropriate part? These are clevite 77's.

Thanks for any help.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26923&Reply=26923><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Eliminating the Externally Balanced Flywheel</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>JP, <i>03/04/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can I have my 428CJ rotating assembly zero balanced to eliminate the externally balanced flywheel?  The engine I got came without a flywheel and they are pretty pricey, about $350. I can have the rotating assembly zero balanced for $150 and supposedly use the 390 flywheel I already have. That's a savings of $200, PLUS my engine is balanced too. Am I missing something here??  </blockquote> Eliminating the Externally Balanced Flywheel -- JP, 03/04/2006
Can I have my 428CJ rotating assembly zero balanced to eliminate the externally balanced flywheel? The engine I got came without a flywheel and they are pretty pricey, about $350. I can have the rotating assembly zero balanced for $150 and supposedly use the 390 flywheel I already have. That's a savings of $200, PLUS my engine is balanced too. Am I missing something here??
 I have never heard of a shop... -- Hawkrod, 03/04/2006
That included the weight in an internal balance and would do it that cheap. the weight alone is $100 an ounce or more. Ask the shop clearly as you may have somebody who knows something nobody else has ever heard of. make sure that price is labor AND materials.. A small side point is you will still need a flywheel and a steel one for a 390 is not much difference in price than that of a 428 but in the end you probably need to balance the engine no matter which way you go. Be sure they do not balance the engine by taking weight off of the flywheel or harmonic balancer, the weight should always be taken from the crank itself. Hawkrod
 RE: Eliminating the Externally Balanced Flywheel -- giacamo, 03/10/2006
Just have a 390 flywheel rebalanced to the 428 specks any good balance shop can do this i,v had it don many times to save on the expence of buying a 428 wheel.............
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26919&Reply=26919><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>C7 PI or Blue Thunder 427 MR Intake for this build</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Justin G, <i>03/03/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>With this build below which intake is better C7 PI or Blue Thunder 427 MR 4V. I have found both intakes for about the same price.<br><br>I want close to stock but not the wieght of the iron intake. <br><br>390 Build – Stock with a little extra<br><br>390 Long Block Rebuild .030 Over, Balanced Assembly, Hypereutectic Pistons, ARP Bolts, ARP Oil Pump Shaft, Adjustable Rocker Assemblies<br><br>Cylinders bored .030 over<br><br>Rotating Assembly Balanced<br><br>Heavy Duty oil pump with heavy duty shaft<br><br>Stock Oil Pan with windage tray<br><br>C6AE-J Heads with minor porting and new matched springs <br><br>Double Roller Timing Set<br><br>Comp Cams 275DEH<br><br>Blue Thunder 427 MR Intake (Painted Ford Blue for stock appearance)<br><br>Stock GT 390 Exhaust Manifolds with 2.25" Exhaust, Surface Deck the Manifolds <br><br>Stock replacement water pump, fuel pump<br><br>Stock replacement Distributor with Pertronix, again for stock look<br><br>Stock air cleaner and stock Valve Covers<br><br>Rebuilt 600 CFM Holley 4150<br> </blockquote> C7 PI or Blue Thunder 427 MR Intake for this build -- Justin G, 03/03/2006
With this build below which intake is better C7 PI or Blue Thunder 427 MR 4V. I have found both intakes for about the same price.

I want close to stock but not the wieght of the iron intake.

390 Build – Stock with a little extra

390 Long Block Rebuild .030 Over, Balanced Assembly, Hypereutectic Pistons, ARP Bolts, ARP Oil Pump Shaft, Adjustable Rocker Assemblies

Cylinders bored .030 over

Rotating Assembly Balanced

Heavy Duty oil pump with heavy duty shaft

Stock Oil Pan with windage tray

C6AE-J Heads with minor porting and new matched springs

Double Roller Timing Set

Comp Cams 275DEH

Blue Thunder 427 MR Intake (Painted Ford Blue for stock appearance)

Stock GT 390 Exhaust Manifolds with 2.25" Exhaust, Surface Deck the Manifolds

Stock replacement water pump, fuel pump

Stock replacement Distributor with Pertronix, again for stock look

Stock air cleaner and stock Valve Covers

Rebuilt 600 CFM Holley 4150
 RE: C7 PI or Blue Thunder 427 MR Intake for this build -- Royce P, 03/03/2006
Those intakes are virtually identical. Use either one, you will be happy.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26918&Reply=26918><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>im confused so many gaskets?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>mike khett, <i>03/03/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Im building a 390 for my 62 galaxie(sorry not a stang)But i hear so much about leaky intakes i dont know which gaskets to use.I hear the victor reinz 15166 at napagets a lot of good posts.Which head gaskets should i use this is my first fe build.Im a new ford convert former sbc guy,thanks mike </blockquote> im confused so many gaskets? -- mike khett, 03/03/2006
Im building a 390 for my 62 galaxie(sorry not a stang)But i hear so much about leaky intakes i dont know which gaskets to use.I hear the victor reinz 15166 at napagets a lot of good posts.Which head gaskets should i use this is my first fe build.Im a new ford convert former sbc guy,thanks mike
 RE: im confused so many gaskets? -- Royce P, 03/03/2006
There are no terible head gaskets but the Fel Pro 1020 set is good.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26925&Reply=26918><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: im confused so many gaskets?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steven E, <i>03/04/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm no expert just a recent experience.  I just last week switched from an Edelbrock Performer intake to the Performer RPM (long story) on an fresh engine with under 1000 miles on it.  I used Fel Pro gaskets originally and when I took it apart the gasket was already split and leaking at number 5 cylinder.  On the rebuild I used the Victor Reinz gaskets.  Also the RPM intake really put some added snap into my 428 engine combination vs the Performer. </blockquote> RE: im confused so many gaskets? -- Steven E, 03/04/2006
I'm no expert just a recent experience. I just last week switched from an Edelbrock Performer intake to the Performer RPM (long story) on an fresh engine with under 1000 miles on it. I used Fel Pro gaskets originally and when I took it apart the gasket was already split and leaking at number 5 cylinder. On the rebuild I used the Victor Reinz gaskets. Also the RPM intake really put some added snap into my 428 engine combination vs the Performer.
 Right,,,,,, -- Royce P, 03/04/2006
Fel Pro intake gaskets are known to be a problem, at least the Print - O - Seal ones. But their other gaskets seem to be fine.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26916&Reply=26916><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>6k or 8k in a 68 390 GT with a 4-speed</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed S, <i>03/03/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I emailed Kevin at Mart Auto Works and he said that I should try posting this question on a forum.  Which did the cars come from the Factory with?  The Tachman said it would be a 6k but he wasn’t 100% sure. </blockquote> 6k or 8k in a 68 390 GT with a 4-speed -- Ed S, 03/03/2006
I emailed Kevin at Mart Auto Works and he said that I should try posting this question on a forum. Which did the cars come from the Factory with? The Tachman said it would be a 6k but he wasn’t 100% sure.
 OEM '68 spec calls for 8K tach, regardless of engine. See related... -- Mr F, 03/03/2006
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=243295&Reply=243264
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26909&Reply=26909><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>100 hp more on 428 fe</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>wdeck, <i>03/02/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1967 TBird with a 428.  I want to get an extra 100hp out of the engine, what are my options.  I am thinking of headers as a start, then replaceing the distrubtor.  I am thinking of changeing the cam to something slightly more aggressive, but nothing radical, still want a decent cruiser.  Is it worth while to change the Autolite 4300 carb and a different intake manifold?<br>What are some other options? </blockquote> 100 hp more on 428 fe -- wdeck, 03/02/2006
I have a 1967 TBird with a 428. I want to get an extra 100hp out of the engine, what are my options. I am thinking of headers as a start, then replaceing the distrubtor. I am thinking of changeing the cam to something slightly more aggressive, but nothing radical, still want a decent cruiser. Is it worth while to change the Autolite 4300 carb and a different intake manifold?
What are some other options?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26920&Reply=26909><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Here's a recipe that would work</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>03/03/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>1. Edelbrock Performer RPM heads<br>2. Comp Cams 268H<br>3. Headers<br>4. Pertronix ignition module in your original distributor.<br>5. Holley 600 CFM carb 0-1850-3<br><br>Should make 430 - 450 HP easily and be a blast to drive in the T-Bird.<br><br>Royce<br>  </blockquote> Here's a recipe that would work -- Royce P, 03/03/2006
1. Edelbrock Performer RPM heads
2. Comp Cams 268H
3. Headers
4. Pertronix ignition module in your original distributor.
5. Holley 600 CFM carb 0-1850-3

Should make 430 - 450 HP easily and be a blast to drive in the T-Bird.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26930&Reply=26909><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Here's a recipe that would work</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>wdeck, <i>03/04/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Royce, what would I be losing if I don't replace the heads?  Would the cam have any lope to it?  Wanting to stay away from that.  Since alot of my accessories run on vacuum, do I have to consider that with the engine rebuild? </blockquote> RE: Here's a recipe that would work -- wdeck, 03/04/2006
Thanks Royce, what would I be losing if I don't replace the heads? Would the cam have any lope to it? Wanting to stay away from that. Since alot of my accessories run on vacuum, do I have to consider that with the engine rebuild?
 RE: Here's a recipe that would work -- Royce P, 03/04/2006
The Edelbrock heads are probably worth 40 - 50 HP.

I recommended that cam because it will let you run stock everything else no problem with vacuum, power brakes, etc.

Royce
Go to the top of this page
Go back one page Back    Next Go forward one page

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20