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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17955&Reply=17955><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Oil Pressure</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim, <i>07/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>My 69 428cj runs low oil pressure when hot (5-8 psi) at idle..Goes up as rpm increases.. Is there ANYTHING I can do to increase oil pressure without doing a rebuild? Thanks!! </blockquote> Oil Pressure -- Tim, 07/30/2003
My 69 428cj runs low oil pressure when hot (5-8 psi) at idle..Goes up as rpm increases.. Is there ANYTHING I can do to increase oil pressure without doing a rebuild? Thanks!!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17958&Reply=17955><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>How does the oil pressure look at 1000 RPM.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>07/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>If you are idling at 600 RPM or lower, you can get some low oil readings in an older build.  If it pops up to 25-30PSI at 1000 RPM, you are likely in O.K. shape.<br><br>Too much pressure can have the effect of excessively draining the pan, and with five quarts many CJs with aftermarket pumps have bit the big one due to oil starvation.<br><br>Your low oil pressure situation may not be ideal, and it may indicate severe bearing wear or damage, but if the oil pressure behaves well as you tip above idle, the odds are you can drive for a good bit longer without needing a rebuild.  Wisdom suggests you pull the engine apart now if you intend to stress it at all, but chances are you can have fun for a bit before anything goes ballistic.<br><br>JMO,<br>Shoe. </blockquote> How does the oil pressure look at 1000 RPM. -- Dave Shoe, 07/30/2003
If you are idling at 600 RPM or lower, you can get some low oil readings in an older build. If it pops up to 25-30PSI at 1000 RPM, you are likely in O.K. shape.

Too much pressure can have the effect of excessively draining the pan, and with five quarts many CJs with aftermarket pumps have bit the big one due to oil starvation.

Your low oil pressure situation may not be ideal, and it may indicate severe bearing wear or damage, but if the oil pressure behaves well as you tip above idle, the odds are you can drive for a good bit longer without needing a rebuild. Wisdom suggests you pull the engine apart now if you intend to stress it at all, but chances are you can have fun for a bit before anything goes ballistic.

JMO,
Shoe.
 Low oil pressure at idle -- Travis Miller, 07/31/2003
Drop the oil pan and install a high volume oil pump. It will increase the oil pressure at low rpms by putting more volume of oil thru the system. I've done it and it works.

Another thing that can cause low oil pressure at idle is using a racing type high performance oil filter on an old engine. Done that also. When I went back to a Motorcraft regular oil filter, the pressure came back up.

 RE: Oil Pressure -- giacamo, 08/22/2003
pull the pan check bearings replace oil pump with hv type
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17954&Reply=17954><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Trans ID</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim, <i>07/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>C6 trans... I was told my trans came out of a 68 Shelby. How can I verify this?? It's out of my 69 Mach 428cj for a rebuild at this time.The #on the trans is RF-C6AP-7006  4 .. Thanks all ! </blockquote> Trans ID -- Tim, 07/30/2003
C6 trans... I was told my trans came out of a 68 Shelby. How can I verify this?? It's out of my 69 Mach 428cj for a rebuild at this time.The #on the trans is RF-C6AP-7006 4 .. Thanks all !
 Guess there's no ID tag on the servo cover, huh? [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/30/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17949&Reply=17949><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 motor tuning, 67 mustang</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ponyboy, <i>07/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The shop manual says the motor should have <br>a pointer on it, and the balancer #s, I hear the other option was, the motor has the #s and the balencer has the "dot", <br> You guessed it my motor has a pointer, the balancer, a dot.<br> Is there any type of relationship between the two?, or any idea how to go about "timing"<br>Please and thankyou.<br>Chris.  </blockquote> 390 motor tuning, 67 mustang -- ponyboy, 07/29/2003
The shop manual says the motor should have
a pointer on it, and the balancer #s, I hear the other option was, the motor has the #s and the balencer has the "dot",
You guessed it my motor has a pointer, the balancer, a dot.
Is there any type of relationship between the two?, or any idea how to go about "timing"
Please and thankyou.
Chris.
 RE: 390 motor tuning, 67 mustang -- Charlie, 08/07/2003
I haven't seen one with just a dot, is the dampner in good clean shape? Has it been repainted?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17947&Reply=17947><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Redline</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim, <i>07/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ok folks. .. 69 Mach with stock 428CJ..C6 with shift kit... Whats the RPM Redline?..Running on the dragstrip this saturday for the first and only time... Any tips?.. I don't care how fast I go,just want to beat the other guy!! ... Thanks </blockquote> Redline -- Tim, 07/29/2003
Ok folks. .. 69 Mach with stock 428CJ..C6 with shift kit... Whats the RPM Redline?..Running on the dragstrip this saturday for the first and only time... Any tips?.. I don't care how fast I go,just want to beat the other guy!! ... Thanks
 5800 rpm -- John, 07/29/2003
http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-governor.html
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17951&Reply=17947><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Remember, a CJ's not a 427. Watch those revs. :-) [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>07/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Remember, a CJ's not a 427. Watch those revs. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/29/2003
n/m
 Actually: A CJ's not a 427. Watch that oilpan. -- Dave Shoe, 07/30/2003
You will have more issues with oil starvation at the end of the strip than overreving, particularly if you do not have the later CJ with the factory recalibrated dipstick. Be sure you are familiar with oilpan precautions and recommendations, especially if you have an aftermarket oil pump or oil passage modifications.

Aftermarket oil pumps have killed countless FEs due to excessive draining of the 5-quart oil pan. Keep an eye on the oil gauge - any drop in the traps suggest insufficient oil capacity.

A search string might be "starvation" or "sucking air", if you seek more info.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17956&Reply=17947><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Redline</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim, <i>07/30/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks John and Mr F ! </blockquote> RE: Redline -- Tim, 07/30/2003
Thanks John and Mr F !
 A friend's CJ let go at 6800 -- Barry B, 07/30/2003
Threw a rod and took out the crank and block, left a bunch of oil on the track too.

There's no need to rev a stock CJ that high anyway, it's already past the power peak.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17942&Reply=17942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>352 rebuild gone bad, second cam bad too?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Eric, <i>07/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Here's the background:  '66 352 from a F100.  Fresh rebuild .030 over, Melling stage 1 RV cam with melling springs.  I didn't precharge the oil system and cranked the engine instead.  My static timing was right on so when the oil pressure light went out, I fired her up.  Went right to 2200-2500 RPM for 5 mins and shut key off to check for leaks.  On coast down, heard a "bad pop".  Engine started back up and I finished the break in. The engine idled fine but when put into gear, didn't move.  Short of the story was the front tranny pump siezed taking the converter drive tabs with it.  Pull tranny, fix pump, new converter and back in business.  <br><br>Truck drove fine so I procedded with ring break in.  Light to moderate throttle then coast down.  Engine started to devol slight miss.  I had to bring idle up to 1100, in Park, to get 500 in drive.  Oil pressure near zero.  I pulled the pan and found small metal like the metal flake paints I use.  Dropped the pan, cleaned it, new HV pump and back together again.  High pressure now 10 psi at idle.  Drove truck 20 miles and broke down.  Pulled valve cover and found #3 exhaust valve not going up and down. I thought it had a collapsed lifter. <br><br>I fish the lifter out and find it all chewed up, cam is bad.  Tow truck home, pull front parts off and try to pull cam.  Cam won't budge and turns very hard.  Inspection of front bearing shows clearance going lose toght when cam rotated.  Pull engine and do complete tear down.  #3 cam bearing toast, #1 and #4 in bad shape.  #7 and #3 piston bores showing vertical scratches.  Cam bearings and main look good.  Clean block, new cam bearings, new Edelbrock Performer cam and lifters.  Lubes lifter bottoms and cam lobes per instruction.  Cam turns nice and loose.  <br><br>Engine back in truck, static timed, primed with drill motor & gas poured in carb.  Engine fires right up, runs good and I take it 3000 to 3500 RPM for 5 mins.  Key off, check fluids, restart and back to 3000-3500 RPM for 20 mins.  Drain oil and pull filter. Filter has more siver metal flakes in it.  Flakes too small to feel but can see them in direct sunlight, OH-OH.  Oil pressure started at 80 and went to 45 psi hot, by the way.  Today, i pulled valve covers and watched the push rods.  A few were turning good, a few slowly and a few hardly or not at all.<br><br>All this leading up to these questions:<br><br>1.  Is metal flake bad in the oil after cam break in?<br>2.  Some push rods not rotating, is this a sign of impending lobe failure or good the lifter be turning and the push rod not? </blockquote> 352 rebuild gone bad, second cam bad too? -- Eric, 07/29/2003
Here's the background: '66 352 from a F100. Fresh rebuild .030 over, Melling stage 1 RV cam with melling springs. I didn't precharge the oil system and cranked the engine instead. My static timing was right on so when the oil pressure light went out, I fired her up. Went right to 2200-2500 RPM for 5 mins and shut key off to check for leaks. On coast down, heard a "bad pop". Engine started back up and I finished the break in. The engine idled fine but when put into gear, didn't move. Short of the story was the front tranny pump siezed taking the converter drive tabs with it. Pull tranny, fix pump, new converter and back in business.

Truck drove fine so I procedded with ring break in. Light to moderate throttle then coast down. Engine started to devol slight miss. I had to bring idle up to 1100, in Park, to get 500 in drive. Oil pressure near zero. I pulled the pan and found small metal like the metal flake paints I use. Dropped the pan, cleaned it, new HV pump and back together again. High pressure now 10 psi at idle. Drove truck 20 miles and broke down. Pulled valve cover and found #3 exhaust valve not going up and down. I thought it had a collapsed lifter.

I fish the lifter out and find it all chewed up, cam is bad. Tow truck home, pull front parts off and try to pull cam. Cam won't budge and turns very hard. Inspection of front bearing shows clearance going lose toght when cam rotated. Pull engine and do complete tear down. #3 cam bearing toast, #1 and #4 in bad shape. #7 and #3 piston bores showing vertical scratches. Cam bearings and main look good. Clean block, new cam bearings, new Edelbrock Performer cam and lifters. Lubes lifter bottoms and cam lobes per instruction. Cam turns nice and loose.

Engine back in truck, static timed, primed with drill motor & gas poured in carb. Engine fires right up, runs good and I take it 3000 to 3500 RPM for 5 mins. Key off, check fluids, restart and back to 3000-3500 RPM for 20 mins. Drain oil and pull filter. Filter has more siver metal flakes in it. Flakes too small to feel but can see them in direct sunlight, OH-OH. Oil pressure started at 80 and went to 45 psi hot, by the way. Today, i pulled valve covers and watched the push rods. A few were turning good, a few slowly and a few hardly or not at all.

All this leading up to these questions:

1. Is metal flake bad in the oil after cam break in?
2. Some push rods not rotating, is this a sign of impending lobe failure or good the lifter be turning and the push rod not?
 Hmm...to me it doesn't sound particularly worrisome, yet. [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/29/2003
n/m
 But I can understand your anxiety after the last time. :-P [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/29/2003
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17940&Reply=17940><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>help with casting #'s on my heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John Wagner, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>my head #'s read as follows C8AE 6090 R.<br>I looked at the bookstore and all they had listsed is an A,B,or H suffix. I'm leaning towards having them redone to cj spects? any thoughts </blockquote> help with casting #'s on my heads -- John Wagner, 07/28/2003
my head #'s read as follows C8AE 6090 R.
I looked at the bookstore and all they had listsed is an A,B,or H suffix. I'm leaning towards having them redone to cj spects? any thoughts
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17941&Reply=17940><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Those numbers don't exist.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>You've got either C6AE-6090-R or C8AE-6090-H heads.If they have the tall runners (like 1958-65 heads), then they're the C6AE-R castings.  If thy're the shorter runer design, then they're the C8AE-H heads.<br><br>Note also that the books are wrong.  There are no C8AE-6090-A or C8AE-6090-B heads for the FE.  There are C8AE-6049-A and C8AE-6049-B head assemblies, but head assembly numbers are about useless, since the head assembly numbers mentioned were used only on the production line, not at the service counter, and were never marked on the head assemblies.<br><br>If they are C6AE-R heads, as found on about a third of FEs in 1966-67 only, they're easily converted to CJ specs.  C8AE-Hs are a somewhat different casting, though still quite worthy of being put to use in performance applications.  The C8AE-H heads were standard on most all 1968-71 FE engines except the CJ.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> Those numbers don't exist. -- Dave Shoe, 07/28/2003
You've got either C6AE-6090-R or C8AE-6090-H heads.If they have the tall runners (like 1958-65 heads), then they're the C6AE-R castings. If thy're the shorter runer design, then they're the C8AE-H heads.

Note also that the books are wrong. There are no C8AE-6090-A or C8AE-6090-B heads for the FE. There are C8AE-6049-A and C8AE-6049-B head assemblies, but head assembly numbers are about useless, since the head assembly numbers mentioned were used only on the production line, not at the service counter, and were never marked on the head assemblies.

If they are C6AE-R heads, as found on about a third of FEs in 1966-67 only, they're easily converted to CJ specs. C8AE-Hs are a somewhat different casting, though still quite worthy of being put to use in performance applications. The C8AE-H heads were standard on most all 1968-71 FE engines except the CJ.

Shoe.
 RE: Those numbers don't exist. -- John Wagner, 07/29/2003
upon closer inspection, looks like it is a 6 rather than an 8. thanks for the info

John
 RE: Those numbers don't exist. -- Gary Shaw, 01/19/2004
Dave- I have a set of head the casting number read C6AE-J no other numbes on the heads that ican see. Are these good for a build ? thanks for any info on these heads, wanting to run tri power with them. Thans gary shaw
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24912&Reply=17940><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: help with casting #'s on my heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Blake Snover, <i>05/10/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Are you sure they dont say C6AE 6090-r? because if so they are very close to the cj and are good heads. </blockquote> RE: help with casting #'s on my heads -- Blake Snover, 05/10/2005
Are you sure they dont say C6AE 6090-r? because if so they are very close to the cj and are good heads.
 RE: help with casting #'s on my heads -- GREG F, 08/20/2005
Those heads are service replace ments for 66 and 67 galaxie
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17933&Reply=17933><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Engine ID</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dandydon, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote> I have D4TE cast into the block on my engine.Its in a 64 Galaxie.In reading past posts it appears that this is a 1974 truck engine.Is this correct?So would it be a 390 as I was told? Is this a good engine to keep and modify?It has a 2 barrel on it now and I was thinking of putting on a 1959 cast iron 4 barrel manifold and matching valve covers (because they are free)so it would look original.<br><br>[Post relocated by Admin.] </blockquote> Engine ID -- Dandydon, 07/28/2003
I have D4TE cast into the block on my engine.Its in a 64 Galaxie.In reading past posts it appears that this is a 1974 truck engine.Is this correct?So would it be a 390 as I was told? Is this a good engine to keep and modify?It has a 2 barrel on it now and I was thinking of putting on a 1959 cast iron 4 barrel manifold and matching valve covers (because they are free)so it would look original.

[Post relocated by Admin.]
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17938&Reply=17933><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>It's a 1974-78 block.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>The D4TE could be found in FEs from 1974 to 76, and FTs from 1974-78.  The cylinder jackets might be the heavy 361/391 FT type, but most likely they are the standard 360/390 FE type.  A drill bit shank poked between the cylinders throught the core plug holes will tell the story (search this Forum for "drill bit test", for more details).<br><br>You can tell the engine by looking at the crank flange.  If it's still in the vehicle, turn the damper to TDC, pull the inspection cove off the bellhousing, and look for a hefty half-circle cutout on the flange, just to the drivers side of the square notch which points directly to China when at TDC.  The football shaped cutout indicates the crank is a short throw, as found in the 360.  no major cutout nect to the square notch indicates it's a later 390 crank (early 60s 390s got the cutout, just for the heck of it, even though the rear throw could be hollowed out without the extra flange cut).<br><br>It's most likely a 360, since it was standard in most pickup truck V-8 packages.  Since 1973, 390-2V was optional on F100 trucks, and 390-4Vs on all larger light trucks.  The 4V that was standard will lokk about identical to the 1965 jobby (which lacks the oil fill tube), except it'll have an EGR port on the carb flange and the familiar "T" on the #1 runner.<br><br>The block does have reinforced cranksaddles, since most all FE/FT blocks got them by the time the mid 70s came around.<br><br>Sounds like a solid foundation for your Galaxie.  You will want to get a sonic mapping of the cylinders if you plan on performance action or heavy boring, as a little core shift can be expected in many blocks, and you don't want to bolt a lot of expensive racing goodies onto an engine with thin sections to the cylinders.<br><br>The 1959 4-barrel will be a tall-runner intake (generally the same as any 1958-65 era iron intake, except 1965 lost the oil filler tube) and can use valve covers without any oil filler ports in them (1958-64 era covers), since the intake has the oil filler tube in it.  I'll work O.K with the small runner heads, but a better match might be a set of 1958-65 FE heads, since these all have the matching tall runner.<br><br>1966 was the first year the heads got the smaller runners, and the D2TE-AA heads on your D4 block are of the small runner type.  It's my understanding these work fine with the early tall runner intake.<br><br>JMO,<br>Shoe. </blockquote> It's a 1974-78 block. -- Dave Shoe, 07/28/2003
The D4TE could be found in FEs from 1974 to 76, and FTs from 1974-78. The cylinder jackets might be the heavy 361/391 FT type, but most likely they are the standard 360/390 FE type. A drill bit shank poked between the cylinders throught the core plug holes will tell the story (search this Forum for "drill bit test", for more details).

You can tell the engine by looking at the crank flange. If it's still in the vehicle, turn the damper to TDC, pull the inspection cove off the bellhousing, and look for a hefty half-circle cutout on the flange, just to the drivers side of the square notch which points directly to China when at TDC. The football shaped cutout indicates the crank is a short throw, as found in the 360. no major cutout nect to the square notch indicates it's a later 390 crank (early 60s 390s got the cutout, just for the heck of it, even though the rear throw could be hollowed out without the extra flange cut).

It's most likely a 360, since it was standard in most pickup truck V-8 packages. Since 1973, 390-2V was optional on F100 trucks, and 390-4Vs on all larger light trucks. The 4V that was standard will lokk about identical to the 1965 jobby (which lacks the oil fill tube), except it'll have an EGR port on the carb flange and the familiar "T" on the #1 runner.

The block does have reinforced cranksaddles, since most all FE/FT blocks got them by the time the mid 70s came around.

Sounds like a solid foundation for your Galaxie. You will want to get a sonic mapping of the cylinders if you plan on performance action or heavy boring, as a little core shift can be expected in many blocks, and you don't want to bolt a lot of expensive racing goodies onto an engine with thin sections to the cylinders.

The 1959 4-barrel will be a tall-runner intake (generally the same as any 1958-65 era iron intake, except 1965 lost the oil filler tube) and can use valve covers without any oil filler ports in them (1958-64 era covers), since the intake has the oil filler tube in it. I'll work O.K with the small runner heads, but a better match might be a set of 1958-65 FE heads, since these all have the matching tall runner.

1966 was the first year the heads got the smaller runners, and the D2TE-AA heads on your D4 block are of the small runner type. It's my understanding these work fine with the early tall runner intake.

JMO,
Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17939&Reply=17933><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: It's a 1974-78 block, addendum.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>I stated,<br><br>"The 4V that was standard will look about identical to the 1965 jobby (which lacks the oil fill tube), except it'll have an EGR port on the carb flange and the familiar "T" on the #1 runner"<br><br>...but I should have also included the "T" intakes all thave the smaller "emissions era" runners found in all 1966-later FE iron intakes, excepting the CJ intake, naturally<br><br>Oh heck.  Just in case:  If you are in China, you will notice the square notch will point toward North America.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> RE: It's a 1974-78 block, addendum. -- Dave Shoe, 07/28/2003
I stated,

"The 4V that was standard will look about identical to the 1965 jobby (which lacks the oil fill tube), except it'll have an EGR port on the carb flange and the familiar "T" on the #1 runner"

...but I should have also included the "T" intakes all thave the smaller "emissions era" runners found in all 1966-later FE iron intakes, excepting the CJ intake, naturally

Oh heck. Just in case: If you are in China, you will notice the square notch will point toward North America.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17946&Reply=17933><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: It's a 1974-78 block, addendum.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dandydon, <i>07/29/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote> Thanks for the information.I am enlightened. </blockquote> RE: It's a 1974-78 block, addendum. -- Dandydon, 07/29/2003
Thanks for the information.I am enlightened.
 RE: It's a 1974-78 block, addendum. -- ARalph, 07/31/2003
I have a 64 Galaxie with a transplanted 390. Can you tell me where the engine and tranny numbers are on my 390 and what they mean? Also when I step on the brakes they seem to over surge and hold for a moment. Andy
 Fe oil temp? -- goodold71, 07/27/2003
What is the optimum oil temp for an F E engine? A nd what is the oil pressure supposed to be? What is the optimum water temp for the F E engine?

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17923&Reply=17923><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>tripower pics</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>dennie, <i>07/27/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>[Image edited for size by Admin.] <br /><img 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" /></blockquote> tripower pics -- dennie, 07/27/2003
[Image edited for size by Admin.]
 another -- dennie, 07/27/2003
[Image deleted by Admin.]
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17922&Reply=17922><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Building an 410 Cui FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hans, <i>07/27/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hello from Holland,<br>I'm at the point to purchase an NOS 390 Cui FE with 428 standard crank and 427 low riser connecting rods  to built an 410 Cui FE.<br>Like the Mercury Marauder '66<br>I believe that when using the 428 crankshaft I must use pistons with the 428 pin position.<br>Wath kind of piston do I have to use??<br>Help me out please.<br><br>Hans<br> </blockquote> Building an 410 Cui FE -- Hans, 07/27/2003
Hello from Holland,
I'm at the point to purchase an NOS 390 Cui FE with 428 standard crank and 427 low riser connecting rods to built an 410 Cui FE.
Like the Mercury Marauder '66
I believe that when using the 428 crankshaft I must use pistons with the 428 pin position.
Wath kind of piston do I have to use??
Help me out please.

Hans
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17924&Reply=17922><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 buildup the old way  link</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>dennie, <i>07/27/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/390intro.html   try this link it goes into 390 buildup in great detail</blockquote> 390 buildup the old way link -- dennie, 07/27/2003
http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/390intro.html try this link it goes into 390 buildup in great detail
 RE: 390 buildup the old way link -- Hans, 07/27/2003
Hello Dennie,

Thanks for the great info.
Just what I needed.

Hans
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17931&Reply=17922><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Building an 410 Cui FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>cuzncletus, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Yes, you must use pistons with the same pin/deck height relationship as the 428.  Badger makes cast replacement pistons for 410 Mercurys and they're available across the counter at NAPA, not much more than any other piston except belly.  Ross makes liteweight forged 410 pistons in at least .030 over. </blockquote> RE: Building an 410 Cui FE -- cuzncletus, 07/28/2003
Yes, you must use pistons with the same pin/deck height relationship as the 428. Badger makes cast replacement pistons for 410 Mercurys and they're available across the counter at NAPA, not much more than any other piston except belly. Ross makes liteweight forged 410 pistons in at least .030 over.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=17934&Reply=17922><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Building an 410 Cui FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hans, <i>07/28/2003</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hello  cuzncletus ,<br><br>Do you know prices of these pistons? </blockquote> RE: Building an 410 Cui FE -- Hans, 07/28/2003
Hello cuzncletus ,

Do you know prices of these pistons?
 RE: Building an 410 Cui FE -- cuzncletus, 07/28/2003
Around $600 (?). I paid around 200 for a set of Badgers. They work fine as they're standard rebuilder pistons but not a real high performance part. They wouldn't stand a lot of HP or any Nitrous. I'll use the Ross' on my next rebuild. Or some other performance pistons, if available. Any other "readers" out there know an alternative?
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