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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26738&Reply=26738><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Justin G, <i>01/30/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>What is the minimum FE specific machining I should have done for a moderate but mostly stock GT 390 rebuild going ino a 67 Mustang.<br><br>I have read about enlargin the oil passage-hole from the oil pump to the oil filter adaptor, what else should I have done?<br><br>I want to make sure the machine shop does everything right for the FE. </blockquote> FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild -- Justin G, 01/30/2006
What is the minimum FE specific machining I should have done for a moderate but mostly stock GT 390 rebuild going ino a 67 Mustang.

I have read about enlargin the oil passage-hole from the oil pump to the oil filter adaptor, what else should I have done?

I want to make sure the machine shop does everything right for the FE.
 RE: FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild -- Royce P, 01/30/2006
Probably the best thing is to just don't leave any trash in the passages, use a stock volume oil pump, and a windage tray.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26744&Reply=26738><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>01/31/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Besides enlarging the hole (From both directions) from the pump to the filter adapter, I flare both the oil pump holes on the block where the filter adapter goess on.  I also flare the block main saddle oil holes so they line up better with the bearing holes.  I also replace all the oil gallery press-in plugs with threaded plugs.  You can enlarge the block holes with a hand drill (be careful...and I think I did 7/16, not 1/2") and the flaring can be done with a bullett shaped burr on a hand drill.  The cast iron is soft, and a non-carbide burr cuts quickly enough not to frustrate you, but slow enough to maintain control </blockquote> RE: FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild -- John, 01/31/2006
Besides enlarging the hole (From both directions) from the pump to the filter adapter, I flare both the oil pump holes on the block where the filter adapter goess on. I also flare the block main saddle oil holes so they line up better with the bearing holes. I also replace all the oil gallery press-in plugs with threaded plugs. You can enlarge the block holes with a hand drill (be careful...and I think I did 7/16, not 1/2") and the flaring can be done with a bullett shaped burr on a hand drill. The cast iron is soft, and a non-carbide burr cuts quickly enough not to frustrate you, but slow enough to maintain control
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26745&Reply=26738><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>01/31/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>use the later fe  oil filter adaptor,and right gasket,i smooth out the pad on the block to match,to cut down the sharp bends,you can ream out the pad to oilpump,pad to cam bearing to 7/16,1/2"and then i matcth the delivery hole to the main bearing hole in the block,just smooth them don't ream them,will cause some oil,pressure,delivery probs,i never had any probs with the high volume pumps,all my engines run them,but there is a diffrent school of thought here,the small block ford standard pump,used approx the same impeller size as the high volume fe pump.and stay away from aluminum bodied pumps,had seen them chafe the dump valve bore and the valve get stuck,blow up filters or hardly any pressure at any rpm,experienced on that problem,never spun a bearing,or had oiling probswith these mods,ps if you use tapped plugs,make sure you block plate has the holes to clear,or drill it to clear the new plugs,und if the block is openend that much,i tapped the liters oil supply holes so that i can convert to solid with out taking the engine apart to clear the shavings after tapping the oil holes,walt </blockquote> RE: FE Specific Machining/Oil Passage work for rebuild -- walt, 01/31/2006
use the later fe oil filter adaptor,and right gasket,i smooth out the pad on the block to match,to cut down the sharp bends,you can ream out the pad to oilpump,pad to cam bearing to 7/16,1/2"and then i matcth the delivery hole to the main bearing hole in the block,just smooth them don't ream them,will cause some oil,pressure,delivery probs,i never had any probs with the high volume pumps,all my engines run them,but there is a diffrent school of thought here,the small block ford standard pump,used approx the same impeller size as the high volume fe pump.and stay away from aluminum bodied pumps,had seen them chafe the dump valve bore and the valve get stuck,blow up filters or hardly any pressure at any rpm,experienced on that problem,never spun a bearing,or had oiling probswith these mods,ps if you use tapped plugs,make sure you block plate has the holes to clear,or drill it to clear the new plugs,und if the block is openend that much,i tapped the liters oil supply holes so that i can convert to solid with out taking the engine apart to clear the shavings after tapping the oil holes,walt
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26749&Reply=26738><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Very Low Oil psi at Idle</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gene simmons, <i>02/01/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>HAS anyone experience low oil pressure at idle? like 4-5 psi; i have a cheap oil pressure guage so i dont know how accurate it is. Just wondering what you guys exprerienced and what was your solutions. thanks.  </blockquote> Very Low Oil psi at Idle -- gene simmons, 02/01/2006
HAS anyone experience low oil pressure at idle? like 4-5 psi; i have a cheap oil pressure guage so i dont know how accurate it is. Just wondering what you guys exprerienced and what was your solutions. thanks.
 Lots of folks have. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/01/2006
It may or may not be anything to be concerned over. It depends on the condition of the engine, the idle speed, the oil pump, the engine oil temperature, the oil filter, and the weight of the oil being used.

The gauge is probably accurate. What's causing the low idle oil pressure may or may not be something that requires attention.

There is no "normal" idle oil pressure, which is why the factories, all of them, publish oil pressure at a specified rpm -40pis@2,000 rpm, for example.

There are too many variables that influence oil pressure at idle and some of them are not indicators of a problem.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26751&Reply=26738><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Very Low Oil psi at Idle</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gene simmons, <i>02/01/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey Gerry Im concerned just cuz seems like it should be higher, did i miss a valley plug anywhere? I know there is that pesky  little one behind the distrubtor shaft in the cam valley. The motor is a 416ci with a HV melling pump. i checked bearing clearances and such, you mentiond oil filters, ive had all different sizes on this thing. i.e a small toyota filter, normal ford filters. same psi either way. the cam is a solid cam and the rear journal is solid any ideas? </blockquote> RE: Very Low Oil psi at Idle -- gene simmons, 02/01/2006
Hey Gerry Im concerned just cuz seems like it should be higher, did i miss a valley plug anywhere? I know there is that pesky little one behind the distrubtor shaft in the cam valley. The motor is a 416ci with a HV melling pump. i checked bearing clearances and such, you mentiond oil filters, ive had all different sizes on this thing. i.e a small toyota filter, normal ford filters. same psi either way. the cam is a solid cam and the rear journal is solid any ideas?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26754&Reply=26738><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Very Low Oil psi at Idle</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>02/01/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>do you have them crappy dumbell stock ford solid lifters?.ifyou do and did not plug the oil supply holes to the lifters may be your problem,,or a spun bearing,the worst scenerio'if you do have them do have them dum bell lifters,swap them for the shell type lifter,and longer push rods are manditory,the full body covers the oil supply hole as same as the hydraulic type lifter,just a thought,walt </blockquote> RE: Very Low Oil psi at Idle -- walt, 02/01/2006
do you have them crappy dumbell stock ford solid lifters?.ifyou do and did not plug the oil supply holes to the lifters may be your problem,,or a spun bearing,the worst scenerio'if you do have them do have them dum bell lifters,swap them for the shell type lifter,and longer push rods are manditory,the full body covers the oil supply hole as same as the hydraulic type lifter,just a thought,walt
 RE: Very Low Oil psi at Idle -- gene simmons, 02/02/2006
I dont remember if they were shaped like that but i think you're right; they are crower lifters #66916.. is their a better lifter i should consider. i did put a restrictors to the lifter valley, not completely plugged though. Even though oil psi seems "ok" at rpms other then stock, still seems low all around.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26733&Reply=26733><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>engine build</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>eddie mcmanus, <i>01/29/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote> Hi All. Finally getting parts for my '67 390. It will be a driver but not pushed hard. What is the consensus on the Comp Cams 268H and the 280H grinds? C6 trans and either 3.0 or 3.25 rear end.<br>Thanks, Ed </blockquote> engine build -- eddie mcmanus, 01/29/2006
Hi All. Finally getting parts for my '67 390. It will be a driver but not pushed hard. What is the consensus on the Comp Cams 268H and the 280H grinds? C6 trans and either 3.0 or 3.25 rear end.
Thanks, Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26734&Reply=26733><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Cams</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>01/29/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>The 268H will work with a stock converter and the 3.0 rear. It is a great cam for a heavy car or pickup. Mountains of low and mid range torque.<br><br>The 280H will be pretty choppy at idle in a 390, you would need at least 10:1 compression, a 2500 stall converter, at least 3.50 rear axle ratio and headers. You absolutely need an MSD or Crane 6 series or better ignition to run a cam with this much overlap in a 390. It is a good cam for a lighter car like a Mustang or Fairlane. Lots of mid to upper RPM power. </blockquote> Cams -- Royce P, 01/29/2006
The 268H will work with a stock converter and the 3.0 rear. It is a great cam for a heavy car or pickup. Mountains of low and mid range torque.

The 280H will be pretty choppy at idle in a 390, you would need at least 10:1 compression, a 2500 stall converter, at least 3.50 rear axle ratio and headers. You absolutely need an MSD or Crane 6 series or better ignition to run a cam with this much overlap in a 390. It is a good cam for a lighter car like a Mustang or Fairlane. Lots of mid to upper RPM power.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26735&Reply=26733><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Cams</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>eddie mcmanus, <i>01/29/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for the reply.  If the 268 cam is less than the original Ford cam and the 280 needs more rear gear and other accessories, is the original GT cam the way to go? </blockquote> RE: Cams -- eddie mcmanus, 01/29/2006
Thanks for the reply. If the 268 cam is less than the original Ford cam and the 280 needs more rear gear and other accessories, is the original GT cam the way to go?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26739&Reply=26733><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>268H is way more than the stock 390 GT cam</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>01/30/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Here is a cam doctor analysis of the stock 390GT / 428CJ cam:<br><br><a href="http://www.428cobrajet.com/images/camdoctor.jpg">http://www.428cobrajet.com/images/camdoctor.jpg</a><br><br> </blockquote> 268H is way more than the stock 390 GT cam -- Royce P, 01/30/2006
Here is a cam doctor analysis of the stock 390GT / 428CJ cam:

http://www.428cobrajet.com/images/camdoctor.jpg

 Try again -- Royce P, 01/30/2006
http://www.428cobrajet.com/id-cam.html

The 428CJ / 390GT has advertised specs that seem more radical but the .050" specs tell the real story.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26752&Reply=26733><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: engine build</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>02/01/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>i.v used the comp 265h in pickups and mild rebilds with good results </blockquote> RE: engine build -- giacamo, 02/01/2006
i.v used the comp 265h in pickups and mild rebilds with good results
 280h -- Dusty, 02/01/2006
i just started my 390 after a long rebuild. i put in a comp 280H with a edelbrock perf. rpm intake and headers. i just broke it in and havn't realy had it on the street yet but it seems pretty sweet. it doesn't realy have rough idle like i thought and wanted, it is noticeable tho. if u didn't want to go to raddicle i would go with the 268h. i was told to expect a huge power gain with the 280h. plus u've got a automatic trans and unless your have some shift kit if they even are available then u won't realy get to take advantage of the 280's full rpm band. thats another thing, don't forget to make shure that all your new parts rpm bands are the same and since you've got a auto trans i would stick with the more off-idle to mid 4's type cams. just my two cents. i've spent a long time reading P.A.W. picking out matched parts so i know the feeling.
 Need an info photo; 68 390/C6 -- richard, 01/28/2006
Anyone got a photo of a 68 Mustang 390/C6 out of the car showing routing of the trans lines (cooling and vacuum, and the mounting of the trans filler tube?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26716&Reply=26716><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>302 C4 launch question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>zack, <i>01/25/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 70' fastback that runs 14.2 at 93 in a quarter mile and my car makes a weird ticking sound when I launch it hard from a stop. its not my fan cause i have an electric one. i also have all new motor mounts. im thinking its the starter drive possibly hitting the flex plate but im not sure has anyone else had a problem like this?. does anyone have any ideas? any help would be appreciated. </blockquote> 302 C4 launch question -- zack, 01/25/2006
I have a 70' fastback that runs 14.2 at 93 in a quarter mile and my car makes a weird ticking sound when I launch it hard from a stop. its not my fan cause i have an electric one. i also have all new motor mounts. im thinking its the starter drive possibly hitting the flex plate but im not sure has anyone else had a problem like this?. does anyone have any ideas? any help would be appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26717&Reply=26716><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 302 C4 launch question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>henry, <i>01/25/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>cracked flex plate </blockquote> RE: 302 C4 launch question -- henry, 01/25/2006
cracked flex plate
 RE: 302 C4 launch question -- walt, 01/25/2006
found that the inspection plate on the bell was put in wrong,and was hitting the converter bolts,on one appliction
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26703&Reply=26703><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Are the valve covers correct</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mark Viera, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>for a 1967 Mustang big block?<br><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4606777038&fromMakeTrack=true">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4606777038&fromMakeTrack=true</a> </blockquote> Are the valve covers correct -- Mark Viera, 01/24/2006
for a 1967 Mustang big block?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4606777038&fromMakeTrack=true
 RE: Are the valve covers correct -- Thompson Harris, 01/24/2006
It is not a Mustang motor. I found a 1970 Ford Truck that I want to use as a parts truck for the motor, trans, and rear end.
The 460 is different than the 390's, 427's, and 428's that were installed from the factory.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26708&Reply=26703><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Yes those are correct 1967 390GT valve covers</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Those are used from the beginning of the 1967 model year until maybe March 1967 when the "Powered by Ford" valve covers started to appear in production.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Yes those are correct 1967 390GT valve covers -- Royce P, 01/24/2006
Those are used from the beginning of the 1967 model year until maybe March 1967 when the "Powered by Ford" valve covers started to appear in production.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26710&Reply=26703><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Actually that is not quite correct....</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hawkrod, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Those are early 67's, mid 67's Ford went to two of the drivers side instead of having the camelback on the passenger side. Hawkrod </blockquote> Actually that is not quite correct.... -- Hawkrod, 01/24/2006
Those are early 67's, mid 67's Ford went to two of the drivers side instead of having the camelback on the passenger side. Hawkrod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26711&Reply=26703><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>My car is an early Mustang</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mark Viera, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>It was built 12/10/66 & it has the “Powered by Ford” Valve covers. Are they correct? I sure hope so because I really do not like the ones in the ad. </blockquote> My car is an early Mustang -- Mark Viera, 01/24/2006
It was built 12/10/66 & it has the “Powered by Ford” Valve covers. Are they correct? I sure hope so because I really do not like the ones in the ad.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26712&Reply=26703><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Nope, not correct, WAY too early for PBF's</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hawkrod, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Yours is likely one with two of the drivers side style early ones. My November Dearborn car was that way but it probably varied a little by plant.  Hawkrod </blockquote> Nope, not correct, WAY too early for PBF's -- Hawkrod, 01/24/2006
Yours is likely one with two of the drivers side style early ones. My November Dearborn car was that way but it probably varied a little by plant. Hawkrod
 Hawkrod my car is a S.J. car if that matters? -- Mark Viera, 01/24/2006
Funny that I have never seen a restored 390 Mustang with those valve covers. Nothing personal, but I do not like them one bit. Good thing I do not enter my car in any serious shows, because I would rather get a root canal then put a set of those “correct” valve covers on just to get a few extra points. Sorry if I have offended anyone that likes them. Thanks for the info
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26702&Reply=26702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>460 mustang</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Thompson Harris, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am thinking about converting my 1968 6cylinder mustang to a 460 big block. Has anyone done this before? Any idea if the big block will fit between the shock towers? </blockquote> 460 mustang -- Thompson Harris, 01/24/2006
I am thinking about converting my 1968 6cylinder mustang to a 460 big block. Has anyone done this before? Any idea if the big block will fit between the shock towers?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26705&Reply=26702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 460 mustang</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Lou, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>never mind the fit, worry about the weight.  </blockquote> RE: 460 mustang -- Lou, 01/24/2006
never mind the fit, worry about the weight.
 RE: 460 mustang -- Thompson Harris, 01/24/2006
I can find all the parts to upgrade the front end. (springs, sway bars, etc...)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26709&Reply=26702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Lots of people have done this swap.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>01/24/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Go to <a href="http://www.perogie.com">http://www.perogie.com</a> or <a href="http://www.crites.com">http://www.crites.com</a> for parts, kits and information.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Lots of people have done this swap. -- Royce P, 01/24/2006
Go to http://www.perogie.com or http://www.crites.com for parts, kits and information.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26714&Reply=26702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>It can be done but,</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Lou, <i>01/25/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>The weight on the front end make the car plow when trying to take a fast turn. There are many aftermarket parts for such a swap, but when you are done the car it will never handle as good as it once did.  You can swap any engine into any car, the question is <br>"is it worth the trouble?" and "do you really gain from the swap?" </blockquote> It can be done but, -- Lou, 01/25/2006
The weight on the front end make the car plow when trying to take a fast turn. There are many aftermarket parts for such a swap, but when you are done the car it will never handle as good as it once did. You can swap any engine into any car, the question is
"is it worth the trouble?" and "do you really gain from the swap?"
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26718&Reply=26702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>The results are fantastic</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>01/25/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Particularly if you use aluminum heads and intake. Then the 429, 460, 514 or - who knows how big you can go - weighs about the same as an all cast iron 351-4V.<br><br>I have driven a '67 Cougar with an all iron 429 and it was a little nose heavy but still way more fun than a 200-1V.<br><br>Horsepower is great fun!<br><br>Royce </blockquote> The results are fantastic -- Royce P, 01/25/2006
Particularly if you use aluminum heads and intake. Then the 429, 460, 514 or - who knows how big you can go - weighs about the same as an all cast iron 351-4V.

I have driven a '67 Cougar with an all iron 429 and it was a little nose heavy but still way more fun than a 200-1V.

Horsepower is great fun!

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26719&Reply=26702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: The results are fantastic</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Thompson Harris, <i>01/25/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for the help. I will post when I get it swapped. </blockquote> RE: The results are fantastic -- Thompson Harris, 01/25/2006
Thanks for the help. I will post when I get it swapped.
 RE: The results are fantastic -- 68JcodeVert, 02/01/2006
Here is a site which the person has a BB 67 coupe.

http://www.472ci-67mustang.com/

Has some very nice pics!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26692&Reply=26692><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>AOD for FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Randy Rutledge, <i>01/22/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>anybody use one? How many different places make an aod for the FE. I'd like to look into them </blockquote> AOD for FE -- Randy Rutledge, 01/22/2006
anybody use one? How many different places make an aod for the FE. I'd like to look into them
 as far as i know you'll need this -- dennie, 01/23/2006
http://www.transmissionadapters.com/ford_fe.htm

post back if you find other info, also lantech makes an od c-6 very expensive, but these are only 2 options i have found.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26694&Reply=26692><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: AOD for FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>01/23/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html">http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html</a> </blockquote> RE: AOD for FE -- raycfe, 01/23/2006
http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html
 RE: AOD for FE -- Randy Rutledge, 01/23/2006
thanks for the info. Here's one other place I saw in Car Craft. fbperformance.com
Looks like any way you go, it's 3000. bucks more or less. There should be a better way!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26697&Reply=26692><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>funny no c-6 mentioned at lentech, i know</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>dennie, <i>01/23/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have seen their ads in mags and online but probably 2 years ago, perhaps they dropped it? </blockquote> funny no c-6 mentioned at lentech, i know -- dennie, 01/23/2006
i have seen their ads in mags and online but probably 2 years ago, perhaps they dropped it?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26698&Reply=26692><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: funny no c-6 mentioned at lentech, i know</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>01/23/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Its still a 650.00 option </blockquote> RE: funny no c-6 mentioned at lentech, i know -- raycfe, 01/23/2006
Its still a 650.00 option
 i'm talking about a modified c-6, not an aod -- dennie, 01/24/2006
adapter, believe me they made an od c-6 in original case...
 390 decoding -- david nothe, 01/22/2006
I have a C7ME-A block. I know its a 390, but really would like to know what it came out of. I was told it came out of a mercury. It has a serial #8D10... Underneath the WI is 7J2 on the raised tag casting and 7L218 on the ledge where the head sits. I believe the 7J2 is the date code but not exactly sure if I'm right and what it even means if I am. I have a S-code fastback and I'm trying to put it together as closely as possible to the way the factory did. It doesn't have to be perfect but I would at least like to know what I have. Figured someone reading this could help. Thanks.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26687&Reply=26687><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Tilt-a-way Steering</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jim, <i>01/21/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am restoring a 69 mustang which has tilt-a-way steering.  At some point in the car's history, it received some damage to the right front fender and inner fender area.  The inner fender where the vacuum can should be located was replaced and the can had been moved to another location.  There are 3 dimples in the replacement inner fender below the battery box which seem to coincide with the dimensions for the 2 bolt holes and the hole for the vacuum lines.  Does anyone know the diameter of the holes, both the bolt holes and the larger hole for the vacuum lines.  If anyone has a car so equipped I would really appreciate a digital pic if at all possible.<br>Thanks for any help.<br>Jim </blockquote> Tilt-a-way Steering -- Jim, 01/21/2006
I am restoring a 69 mustang which has tilt-a-way steering. At some point in the car's history, it received some damage to the right front fender and inner fender area. The inner fender where the vacuum can should be located was replaced and the can had been moved to another location. There are 3 dimples in the replacement inner fender below the battery box which seem to coincide with the dimensions for the 2 bolt holes and the hole for the vacuum lines. Does anyone know the diameter of the holes, both the bolt holes and the larger hole for the vacuum lines. If anyone has a car so equipped I would really appreciate a digital pic if at all possible.
Thanks for any help.
Jim
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26690&Reply=26687><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Tilt-a-way Steering</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>01/22/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>Very hard to that a photo with it on the car. Can do back of can, but under the battery with the harness there, very hard to do. The dimples are were the factory drilled the holes. </blockquote> RE: Tilt-a-way Steering -- raycfe, 01/22/2006
Very hard to that a photo with it on the car. Can do back of can, but under the battery with the harness there, very hard to do. The dimples are were the factory drilled the holes.
 RE: Tilt-a-way Steering -- Tim, 01/26/2006
The 2 small holes are just big enough for mounting studs, 1/4-5/16. The larger center hole is just large enough for vacuum neck, I guessing around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2"
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=26680&Reply=26680><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Dual exhausts, 6 cylinder</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Monohan, <i>01/19/2006</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am trying to find a repair shop to move a brake line on a 1994 mustang convertible so I can have dual exhausts installed. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks. </blockquote> Dual exhausts, 6 cylinder -- Ed Monohan, 01/19/2006
I am trying to find a repair shop to move a brake line on a 1994 mustang convertible so I can have dual exhausts installed. Anyone know anything about this? Thanks.
 Nope. First I've heard of it. -- Gerry Proctor, 01/19/2006
It never made the papers, at least not locally. Did you take hostages or something?
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