My 428 is thirsty too. The valve guide clearence is one place to start looking. Which heads and which valves did you use? Some valves right out of the box are clearenced wrong especially the cheap ones even if they are stainless. A shop will lead you to believe that they check everything but they do not always do it. Out of the box and on the engine! Then you get a phone call telling you to come pick it up. Out goes their hand for the money and they will tell you anything to get rid of you. That is why picking the right machine shop is so critical. I have caught machine shops lying so many times it isn't funny. One time a machinist broke down and told me that he just didn't know much about the Ford product after tracing a problem back to his work. I thought...does that excuse you from doing your darn homework? Anyway....If you have new valves and new valve guides that are correctly clearenced then you may have a broken oil ring. A leak down test is a good start but might not tell you if you have a broken oil ring. It will only tell you that the compression rings are good but still...its a good start.

Four quarts of oil in 200 miles is a sign of trouble. Pull the plugs and keep them in order to see which cylinder is doing what. One good way to do this is to take something like a shoe box and poke holes in the top just big enough to firmly hold a spark plug turned upside down for inspection purposes. Number the holes and mark an "F" for front at one end as another visual que meaning the front of engine.

Just because the car is not smoking doesn't mean that it is not burning the oil. Four quarts in 200 miles will show up on the plugs.

Which oil pump did you use and did you restrict the oil feed holes in the heads like us FE fans have been taught to do all our lives?

To me 20-50w oil in a pretty new engine seems to be a bit too thick to let the motor break in correctly.I would never use 20-50 myself unless the engine had either quite a bit of mileage or I lived in a very hot climate.Just my .02.

James had all very good suggestions. If a guide or seal is leaking, it'd tend to smoke visibly and the particular plug will tell. I'd just add that your piston to wall clearance is a tad high (about 2x) and if you've got low tension rings, and/or are not gapped & oriented properly, that can add to a potential blow-by problem... 428's need good crankcase venting and a windage tray at a minimum...both are critical.

leak down was 24% and the plugs where lets say "oil drippy yuck"Compression going past the exh valves,they had so much oil carbon on them they weren't seating completely, the O-ring seals are being replaced by a set of TOAKS(sp?)Guides are fine, Hope this fixes it

n/m

The general rule is 10lbs of flywheel weight for every 1,000 lbs vechicle weight so 3,500lb car = 35lb flywheel.

But it can depend on how you'll use the car and if this is, as you wrote, a street/strip car you'll want to avoid the lighter flywheels and stick pretty close to the rule. Light flywheels allow the engine to rev very fast but they don't store a lot of energy and you need energy to accelerate mass from a standing stop. This means that the car can be difficult to launch and to recover following a shift. The more CI you engine has and the more torque it makes can overcome this lack of stored energy but you'll need to be over the 500ci level to even consider aluminum flywheels.

Lightweight flywheels are great for road race and circle track cars where 60 foot times mean virtually nothing and acceleration off the corner means everything.

A 67 390GT is an excellent engine that can produce a lot of both HP and torque and last a long time.

If you search this site you will find that at power combo often recommended is to add an Edelbrock Performer RPM, FPA headers and electronic ignition - in addition to keeping the 66-68 GT cam.

With a healthy 390GT with those parts in place in the relative lightweight 67 Cougar you will have to be carefull how you engage the gas pedel on a rainy day.

try vintagespeed.com he has best multi-carb website parts for sale i've seen has alot of linkage for sale. I'm ordering my 3 deuces from him next payday.

pulled the vacume line form the modulator, got fluid out of it, almost smelt like gasoline, would this cause the problem described in my other post of a slipping trans, it stacks the 2-2 shift but just started slipping pretty badly in 1-2 shift, at least what feels like slippage, engine revs between shifts and takes to long to shift...

[Post relocated by Admin.]

184 after 1966?
Charlie