For option 1, the factory non-adjustable rockers will do fine.

There are a couple of scenarios where you have to go to adjustable rockers. One is obvious -a solid lifter cam. The other really depends on the cam's lift and the type of hydraulic lifter used.

Hydraulic valvetrains have a specification for lifter preload. Factory hydraulic valvetrains are designed to achieve that preload, usually 0.060" of plunger depression, in an assembly line process so there's not a lot of tolerance for custom fitting on the build. Some, but not a lot.

The things that change preload are machining specifications on the block and heads and the cam's measured lift. If you haven't done any machine work on the surfaces of the block or heads, then the preload would be the same as at the factory. If the lift of the cam doesn't significantly alter the base circle dimensions, then the preload can be achieved with stock parts.

But, if you do machine the block or heads or you use a cam with a lot more lift then you'll have to set the lifter preload with pedestal shims, or different pushrod lengths, or with adjustable rockers.

There is some wiggle room on standard hydraulic lifter preload. In other words, you won't kill the engine if you're a little off. I won't argue that there is some impact, but for the most part unless it's significatly off, no one will ever realize it.

So here you are contemplating a full aluminum roller rocker. You kind of skipped over the factory and aftermarket, like Crane, iron adjustable rockers. This is the area where you start getting opinions since that's all there really is. It would be different if you were going to a roller cam. I would say yes, you should or would want to consider going to a roller rocker. But with a flat tappet cam, you have very little to gain by going to a roller rocker setup until you get above the 400lb range on the valve springs. There is no hard and fast rule on this. Will a 500lb spring work well with an iron rocker? Sure. Can you run the roller rockers on a 300lb spring? Sure. Most of all, you want to use complementary parts throughout your rebuild. Using a roller rocker setup with end stands and heavy shafts with beefy pushrods on a relative stock rebuild isn't complementary. Neither is using the stock stuff on a roller-camed engine. It's really a matter of durability. If you're going to beat on the parts, you better use good stuff.

There is another area of consideration when you must use some type of adjustable set up. That is with anti-pumpup lifters. They have a lower preload specification, usually 0.020" and for them to run correctly, you have to be pretty close to that preload.

So, the short answer for option 2, in my opinion, is to look at the Crane iron rockers. If you have the money to burn, then go with the roller rockers.

It ia no good for any purpose I know of. Just a poor design, it has too much overlap for any kind of street use and is too mild for a race car. It just sucks.

Its hard to beat Harland Sharp roller rockers if you are talking about just replacement rockers for using valve springs around 300 pounds open pressure.

For say 600 pounds open pressure with a roller cam then maybe a complete Erson roller rocker setup would be better.

Royce

Mike, Please go to the following eBay site and contact this fellow. He can probably get what you need. Thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Assembly-Tool-Ford-289-302-351C-351M-Crankshaft-Socket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQitemZ4603956921QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

it was the torque conv snapped of into the tranny pump that had the engine bound up, disassembled a good motor, ie main caps rods cam etc, ended up pulling with conv and saw problem, just a thought.

That combination is well within the limits of that block in my opinion. Your peak power should be well below 6000 rpm so you should rarely if ever have it up that high. The biggest problem I've had is finding a good machine that knows these motors and how to build them. With the correct build, that motor should last you many miles.

I put the same rear end under my 67 fastback. Since I'm using CE's slide-a-link traction bar set up and a rear sway bar, I can't hook up the em. brake. Aside from that it is a dirrect bolt in and something like 2" narrower than the stock 67. That helped me fit my drag radials under there. One thing I noticed is the rear shackle assembly seams to be offset about 1/4" from the spring eye with the versaille rear end. I just got 1/4" longer bolts and used spacers accordingly. That's a better rear end all around. bigger axle tubes and axles, stouter housing, bigger bearings.

Randy, I had one on a 67 Fastback S-Code I bought. It was on the factory 390 and I recon it was put on by someone years ago. Anyhow, I'm cloning a GT500 out of the car and am rebuilding the engine. I'm replacing it with an Edelbrock Performer intake and heads. The intake you have is great. I had good performance to about 6,000 rpm's. My opinion but it's a great intake. I think it's an older intake but a goodie. Good Luck

I spent a whole lot of time on picking a cam for my 390, and one factor was the adjustable rockers. The main problem was that the adjustable rocker arms had a 1.76 lift ratio and the non-adjustable had a 1.73 ratio. So even if you keep the same cam but use different rockers, the performance will be different, the valves will open more and the intake and exhaust duration will both be slightly longer.

I believe (but I'm not 100%) that Comp Cams calculates the specs on a 1.73 ratio and most other popular brands calculate using the 1.76 ratio. you need to look into that before you purchase a cam, as your performance may vary from what they say.

Also, aftermarket rocker (roller rockers, specifically) arms for the FE are all 1.76 ratio, not the 1.73.

Try
http://fomoco.com

The pump can be bought at any napa or auto zone etc.

BB brackets if not from fomoco.com Post here to MR. F can be had from mansfield mustang
http://mansfieldmustang.com/
http://mansfieldmustang.com/PowerSteering.html

or ebay

also the part that holds the pump is the same as small blocks

http://www.bright.net/~rodes/