Rockershaft flex was dealt with on the 427 by using cast iron pedestals. Iron pedestals with the slot cut into them provided clamping rigidity along the entire pedestal, so the rocker didn't seem to be standing out all that far. This worked fine back when racing valve spring technology was more primitive.

Factory aluminum pedestals don't have the capacity to clamp the shaft like the iron pedestals, partly because they don't have the slot and partly because aluminum is three times more flexible than iron.

The goal is to switch to beefier aluminum or steel pedestals, but the critical need is to get the end supports replaced because that sturdy-looking stub of a rockershaft hanging off the end is unbelievably flexible, particularly with modern camshafts which have been designed with fast ramps suitable for modern valve spring technology.

All FEs with "beyond CJ" camshafts MUST have rocker end support stands of some sort, unless you want to have a "story" to tell (I have stories, as do many others who learned the hard way). Breakage can be expected, too, so you won't have to wait too long to learn.

Stiffer rockershafts are available with thicker walls or the bogus "hardening" claim (hardening helps NOTHING in this situation), but the problem is shafts can only add thickness at the ID, and this does little to add rigidity. Even a solid steel rockershaft would tend to flex too much, so the end support stand is the only first place to look. Reinforced (thicker) shafts are a fine third line of defense.

There are several pedestal end support designs with varying cost and sophistication, but it seems they all work if you're not planning lifts beyond .650 and revs beyond 7000. You do want to look at the more expensive ones if you want to push these limits.

Sorry, I'm not knowledgeable about all the current offerings, so it might be good to ask the forum where the best place is to get some.

The second line of defense is to replace the wimpy rockershaft springs with solid aluminum dowels, and the fourth is probably to replace the center pedestals, though the details get sorta engine-specific beyond the dowels.

I seem to recall I paid about $120 for some nice FPP end supports about a decade ago. Don't know what they're going for now. Hey, $120 seemed kind of steep until I saw the mess left by the stock pedestals.

JMO,
Shoe.

...some 1961/62 engines didn't come with an engine plate sandwiched between the block and bellhousing. If you install a C6, you'll need to add one to keep the spacing proper, as all C6 engines got an engine plate.

The C6 flexplate is needed for two reasons. First, the torque converter offset is apparently different between the two trannys, and keeping the correct flexplate will assure the front tranny pump engages properly, and also the #3 engine main bearing doesn't get overworked at the thrust face. Second, the '61/'62 starter was a different design entirely (early FE), so you'll have to use a starter compatible with the tranny/flywheel you select (late FE).

Shoe.

since ford did this at the factory it is really easy to duplicate by using the factory parts. the hardest part (and not really that hard) is to find a C6 donor car. the 66 thunderbird used C6 and the chassis is exactly the same. you will need; the transmission mount, the shift lever from the transmission (don't use the 66 trans they have potential problems and still have the CM shift pattern), the kick down linkage, and the shift linkage. the shift linkage is much more involved than the CM setup but it is needed to make the shift indicator register properly. it all bolts in easily and works fine. the hardest part is mounting one of the frame side shift belcrank bolts. if i remember correctly it uses one stock bolt and you have to drill one small hole but just try getting a drill in there with the trans in place. and the trans has to be in place to see how it needs to mount as the other end mounts on the trans! you can bolt it all together and mark it and then pull the trans back out but i am too damn lazy for that. hawkrod

as Holleys and Autolites are pretty much interhangable, however the base sealing problem may be worse.

You will want to test fit it before running it on your engine.

Sorry, I just realized I posted that to the FE group instead of the general. Maybe I should be a little more careful. :)

Here's what I can tell you:

First, the intake will bolt right on and will work well with your probable C1AE heads. Only challenge will be your crank ventilation and oil addition provisions). The E-brock Performer does not have provision for oil addition tube at the front and does not have a crank breathing tube hole on the back. So you would have to run valve covers that allow for oil addition and crank ventilation of your choice. No problems if you don't mind a later sixties look to your '62 'bird's engine compartment.

As for the cam, you will have to have your '61/'62 block modified-upgraded to accept the '63 & later cam retention plate rather than your existing thrust button against the timing cover system. This is an easy upgrade that can be handled by any comptetent mechanic/machinist.

Go to Mr. F's "Info Resources"(look to the left side of the page), then go to the engine path and find the engine that your car came with (from the VIN code). It's most likely a Z-code 390. Read all about it.

The bore and stroke on your engine for 1964 is 4.05X3.78 with a hp gross rating at 300 standard or 330 with three deuces.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

Go to this link at my web site then to the article on Cylinder Wall Cleaning.

http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/rdu/b/s/bsprowl/TechArticles.htm

Go to http://www.fordracing.com/ and click on "performance parts" at the top. Then click on "parts search" and enter in the part number M-12071-A301

Since no one is providing you an answer I'll throw my opinions/rememberances in the ring and that might bring on the "correctors".

Block: Ford Corporate Blue. Make sure you get the right shade which is a medium blue, NOT the lighter early sixties 352-2V valve cover blue. And NOT the real dark flathead Ford blue. It now seems to be the mostly commonly available "Ford Blue". I remember buying Ford blue in the late sixties and when I sprayed it...."what in the hell is that?!"

Or what the hey, just do what a lot of nuts did back in the sixties.....paint the block, etc. Chevy Orange! Honestly, I never did that. But I was tempted cause I thought the Ford blue was such a meek scheme. But I've seen the error in my thinking that way. Now I just paint 'em black! No Consours for me!

Manifolds? Intake? Same as the block, the correct Ford Blue. Exhaust? They weren't painted. Just left to rust and look pretty crappy. And there's nothing wrong with that if you're going concours. Otherwise you can paint them with Eastwoods/POR15/ etc. cast iron shade. To me that looks better than rust.

Alt., PS, coil brackets? Can't go wrong with a semi gloss black.