What a list of great parts! You've got the basics there to make a strong running street/strip '28. That C8AX-C cam is the step up hydraulic cam recommended in the Ford Muscle Parts booklet back in '69. I've always wanted one of those NOS but haven't been lucky yet.

With proper machine/build procedures, piston selection to keep it at the 10:1 you indicated you should have a great engine.

I would recommend HD rocker shafts along with end supports. You might want to contact Rocker Arm Specialist in CA. They have a website and they are very responsive to your needs. Your rockers should be fine with their shafts/aluminum billet stands & end supports.

As for the small input top loader and 28 spline axles:

I don't think you'll have any problems here either. If they're in good condition to start with. I have personally run a -N- case w/track lock that I converted to 28 spline side axle gears, etc. many years ago. The 28 splines have allowed me to run this differential in a number of different cars, i.e., '64 Fairlane w/built 289 & 351 W; '66 Cyclone GT w/390 & 428 CJ; '61 Starliner w/428 CJ & 427-400 plus horse. The Fairlane & Starliner both had 4 speeds and automatics. All of these cars were regularly on the strip. But I must admit I never had larger than 8" slicks and mostly street tires and lastly M& H 8" DOT approved street slicks. If you plan wide-low pressure drag slicks, maybe 31 splines would be best. They're definitely able to take more tire, it just depends on you. I've never had a single problem with the diff. I just described.

As for the small input 4 speed, again, I don't think you'll have any problems unless you plan the big tires, 3,000 rpm plus launches and 6,500 shift points. I ran a '67 Fairlane 390 GT top loader behind a tri powered 427 in a 3,800 lb. Starliner. That T & C 4 speed took everything I personally could give it. It was just the standard 2.32 close ratio. Now that's something I'd consider doing differently with a heavier car.....a wide ratio 4 speed that gives you the lower 2.78 first gear. Just my personal opinion on improving 60' times with a stick.

Again, you've got the parts to make a great '66 FE Fairlane.

Good point Mike, I should have mentioned that these pans will easily hold 6 quarts...and you need it! Also, that the windage tray is a necessity too, with any pan.

The pan I mentioned has some decent baffling, at least for a primarily street car. I've never had the oil pressure dip yet on the strip, even with a HV pump and the stock 427MR pickup tube.

If you're not plagued with 'vicious' speed bumps around where you live, and you've got the tire height and front springs to provide the ground clearance required, I'd definitely do the Milodon type pan. It's surprising what that extra capacity will do for your oil temp!

I will say that I liked this cam in my Shelby. It idles smooth and pulls well to 6,000 but shuts off there. I never cared about vacuum, but it has plenty with PB. I had a stick, so I cant say anything about the automatic usage. Ford rated it at 15 more horsepower over the stock GT/CJ grind at 5,500 I believe.

My brother and I had a 4 door 68 390 Torino with the "C" cam. It had sufficient vacuum for the power brakes but it tended to lurch in gear with the stock 13 inch converter. It ran much better with a 10 inch converter and also gained close to .5 sec in the quarter. The car had a .60 over 390, F-427 Edelbrock intake with 850 DP, Hookers, "C" cam, CJ heads, 3.90 gears, and Ford adjustable rockers with stock shafts and stands and Ford CJ springs. It would have worked fine with the nonadjustable rockers. I used to run mid-high twelves at Irwindale and Orange County Raceways in the early 70's. Those were the days!!

In my honest opinion, this was the cam that SHOULD have been in the factory 428CJ's!

Through exhaust manifolds it was faint, but with headers, there was a beautiful, discernible 'lope' at idle, and that great echo.

I never had any problem with the power brakes, and as I recall, we simply set the idle speed up to about 700 in gear. I'm sure a converter would have been a worthwile improvement, but I never got around to it back then.

This cam was very, very strong up through the midrange, pulled well up to 6,000, then signed off. Since it worked perfectly with the stock CJ springs and non-adjustable rockers, I considered it to be a perfect replacement cam, and couldn't figure out why Ford didn't use it once they had it.

I can't believe it's gone already! It was just here last week and now it's not even on page 2. However, if you just go up there to "Search" and type in, C6AE-R, you should get right there. As I said, I printed most of the thread out it was that good. Good pics as examples of what can be done with C4AE-G or C6AE-R or any of the tall runner of that type.

Your '66 Fairlane GT should still have these heads Jim. I think most if not all '66 Fairlane GTs had the C6AE-R. Please enlighten us with what you have if not these C6-R heads.

I would probably take $350.00 for all of it.

The FE reverse rotation cranks are all designed for the rope rear main seal, therefore they have the diagonal grooves cut into the crank in the main sealing area.

When using a reverse rotation crank for forward rotation, simply have the crankshaft shop grind the grooves away. They're only a couple thou deep, so it's a simple task.

You must use the common split neoprene type seal if the grooves are removed, as the rope type will not work as well as it should if the grooves are gone. This is fine, because rope seals eat horsepower and split neoprene are about the only things you can get nowadays, anyhow.

Note that the 427 cast crank is basically the same as the 390 crank.

Shoe.

running at any tracks in the midwest?