i hate banks and people who dont understand cars

i had a similar one in '84. a local high end lot had a GT40. i had an inheritance and was spending like a mad man (bought 5 big block cars and was still looking). i went to look at the car and they pooh poohed me because i was so young. i went and got a cashiers check for 20K and they let me drive it. went home to think about it and talk to my dad. i thought he was going to have a coronary on the spot. he turned red and tore up my check and screamed for a week. i felt like a 5 year old who had done wrong! the car had track history but was not much of a winner but i liked it and of course now it is a million dollar car. i count this as the biggest fish i never caught. the up side is i drove it and that is a memory i will have forever. hawkrod

You can certainly fit the CJ-sized valves (2.09" Int/1.66" Exh) into your heads, while you're having them freshened up. You'll want to ensure that the seats are done correctly for use with today's fuels, and that a good 3-angle valve job is done. Valve springs should be upgraded to something compatible with the new camshaft.

As for your rocker arm assemblies, yes you must keep the hydraulic lifters with your non-adjustables. But you should also carefully inspect them for wear, cracks, etc. first. If they fail inspection, or you really want to run solids, buy a set of the adjustable rocker assemblies and the matching pushrods, and you'll have the flexibility to go either way with a cam. However, there's little reason for most people to run solids on a medium performance street motor, with so many good hydraulic profiles and components available nowadays.

For your application, in order to properly recommend a camshaft choice, we'd need to know things like vehicle model, curb weight, rear end gear ratio, and whether or not it's an automatic transmission. Also things like whether headers and low-restriction exhaust will be used, what intake manifold and carburetion are on the car, and whether you intend to upgrade any of the internal engine components, like stronger rods, forged pistons, etc. On any FE rebuild, I'd recommend having the rods fitted with premium rod bolts (like ARP), and having oiling system modifications done, including opening up and aligning critical passages, and the addition of a quality HV pump.

If you're looking to just do a 'stock' type rebuild on your 428, but want something a little stronger, I'd be looking for a dual-pattern camshaft in the 215 Int/225 Exh (duration @ .050"), .490" - .520" lift range. Like the original CJ camshaft, this will give you strong low-to-mid-range torque, and 6,000 RPM capability, respecting the limits of your non-SCJ internals.

The Ford C6AZ-H (428 Police Interceptor) intake manifold, or something similar (dual plane design), along with a 650-750cfm carburetor, will work well with your modified heads and this type of camshaft.

If you're NOT using headers, and don't have some of the better Ford exhaust manifolds (427/428CJ), you're going to bottleneck what could be a good powerplant. It has to be able to breathe 'out' as well as 'in'. And that means all the way to the rear bumper too.

For the pistons, consider the Keith Black/Silv-O-lite hypereutectics. They're an excellent piston, and come in very nicely between the prices for standard cast designs (which there aren't that many of these days for the 428s) and forged pistons.

I would say it was a bad gasket or poor quality control on the assembly line. High pump pressure theorectically could do this, but you'd have to block both outlets and spin the pump up to fairly high rpm and have a marginal gasket seal. I really doubt that all of these things could coincide. Since the gasket is dead, remove the rear plate and inspect the plate for any signs of contact. Otherswise, make sure the plate is flat, put in a new gasket and call it good.

Just measured a C0AE-9430-B and the ports are 2-3/32 H by 1-13/32 W (2.09 x1.40). I don't think they've been ported but ...

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As long as the heads and intake have not been milled, you should not have any problems bolting everything up. The hardest part is getting the cast iron beast off!!, You may consider using an engine lift!

What size carbs will you use? With all of these carbs it will be easy to get it way too rich. You may need to do some serious tunign on the carbs.

David;

It looks like the 2 carbs on the manifold are Holley 4160's. Don't know what jets etc. they have.

no

If you pull a valve cover, you should see if your heads are 289 or 302, as either a 302 or 289 should be cast there. Also, the casting date of the heads will be there, and it can be compared with the assembly date stamped on the front of the engine. The block casting number is behind the starter to see if it is a 289 or 302 block.
None of this will prove if a 289 or 302 crank is in the block, but you may infer it.

Ed

Thanks for the pic.

What kind of info or history do you have on this head. Did you hear something about it being a 427LR replacement head?

Shoe.