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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12058&Reply=12058><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Releiving push rod holes for big cams in stock int</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/17/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bought a .545 lift cam for my 428. I am using the PI intake and know that you have to open the pushrod holes up on these factory intakes to accomodate this. I had a .514 lift cam with aftermarket 3/8 push rods and noticed that it, just ever so barely, rubbed bottom of the holes. The intake is off the car so I wanted to ask some one who has already been there to advise me so I might avoid having to reassemble it to find out. Does the top of the hole usually have to be relieved as well or usually just the bottom? Thanks for any experienced advise you guys can give me. </blockquote> Releiving push rod holes for big cams in stock int -- James, 03/17/2002
I bought a .545 lift cam for my 428. I am using the PI intake and know that you have to open the pushrod holes up on these factory intakes to accomodate this. I had a .514 lift cam with aftermarket 3/8 push rods and noticed that it, just ever so barely, rubbed bottom of the holes. The intake is off the car so I wanted to ask some one who has already been there to advise me so I might avoid having to reassemble it to find out. Does the top of the hole usually have to be relieved as well or usually just the bottom? Thanks for any experienced advise you guys can give me.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12059&Reply=12058><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>You have to mock it up.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/17/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Test assemble the whole thing, mark it with a felt tip pen and trim as required.<br><br>Royce Peterson </blockquote> You have to mock it up. -- Royce Peterson, 03/17/2002
Test assemble the whole thing, mark it with a felt tip pen and trim as required.

Royce Peterson
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12060&Reply=12058><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I was curious about others experiences on this.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/17/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I will mock it up as you have described but I no longer  have access to the grinder that I used to relieve the bottom with and was curious about others experience with this issue as I know it has been a challenge for Cobra Jet enthusiast for over 30 years. I am thinking that surely there is someone who has had to mark and grind all this out before and I was just curious if they had to grind out the top as well. Thanks for any input from anyone who has been down this road before. </blockquote> I was curious about others experiences on this. -- James, 03/17/2002
I will mock it up as you have described but I no longer have access to the grinder that I used to relieve the bottom with and was curious about others experience with this issue as I know it has been a challenge for Cobra Jet enthusiast for over 30 years. I am thinking that surely there is someone who has had to mark and grind all this out before and I was just curious if they had to grind out the top as well. Thanks for any input from anyone who has been down this road before.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12061&Reply=12058><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE:  It's good to be curious.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ray, <i>03/17/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Even when you use moderately big cam, check that push rod angle. Elongating the push rod hole for the big cams  is a must. Best done on a mill if not, use that trusty old peanut grinder. I've seen when they hit the damage that can be done, it's was  common to lose a complete valve train or more. Ray  </blockquote> RE: It's good to be curious. -- Ray, 03/17/2002
Even when you use moderately big cam, check that push rod angle. Elongating the push rod hole for the big cams is a must. Best done on a mill if not, use that trusty old peanut grinder. I've seen when they hit the damage that can be done, it's was common to lose a complete valve train or more. Ray
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12067&Reply=12058><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE:  It's good to be curious.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob, <i>03/18/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Shoot I've done it with a rat tail file. </blockquote> RE: It's good to be curious. -- Bob, 03/18/2002
Shoot I've done it with a rat tail file.
 RE: Rat is good. -- Ray Tirri, 03/18/2002
That will only cost you 5 bucks were I come from. Ray
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12053&Reply=12053><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John T., <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm redoing a '66 428...I noticed the plug for the main galley behind the cam sprocket, has a "piddle valve" to lube the chain. Can these be had? Or an alternative?<br>I've talked to other builders and they don't even know of this valve. They just plug the hole. This cannot be good.<br>Maybe a very small drilled hole through the NPT plug??<br>Anything...Thanks. </blockquote> 428 -- John T., 03/15/2002
I'm redoing a '66 428...I noticed the plug for the main galley behind the cam sprocket, has a "piddle valve" to lube the chain. Can these be had? Or an alternative?
I've talked to other builders and they don't even know of this valve. They just plug the hole. This cannot be good.
Maybe a very small drilled hole through the NPT plug??
Anything...Thanks.
 Re: 428 -- Ray, 03/16/2002
In all the after market soft plug kits I've used, I never seen any. It's is a good idea to drill at least a .040 to .050 hole whether you use threaded plug or not, keep the chain lubed. Check some of ford sites, you might be able find some original soft plug kits. Ray
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12043&Reply=12043><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>need advice on fuel pressure</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve Boulay, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote> Any body know what the fuel pressure should be on a '67 Shelby GT500 with the factory dual quads? I'm experiencing problems with internal carb flooding, and I can't seem to find anything mechanically wrong. It was sugested in the forum that fuel pressure might be more than the needle and float can deal with. The problem occurs when shut off after use. I've installed phenolic insulators, adjusted levels, and checked the carbs out internally several times. <br>     Any help will be appreciated.<br>    Thanx,<br>       SGB </blockquote> need advice on fuel pressure -- Steve Boulay, 03/15/2002
Any body know what the fuel pressure should be on a '67 Shelby GT500 with the factory dual quads? I'm experiencing problems with internal carb flooding, and I can't seem to find anything mechanically wrong. It was sugested in the forum that fuel pressure might be more than the needle and float can deal with. The problem occurs when shut off after use. I've installed phenolic insulators, adjusted levels, and checked the carbs out internally several times.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanx,
SGB
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12044&Reply=12043><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: need advice on fuel pressure</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gerry Proctor, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I don't see this being related to fuel pressure, Steve.  You would experience fuel pouring out of the vent tubes and boosters with the engine idling if the pump was blowing the needles off the seats.  But for most Holleys, fuel pressure should be around five psi.  You would probably be O.K, with up to seven psi, but you need a needle and seat assembly in good condition.  Anything above seven psi and you're asking for it.  Another thing to consider is fuel percolation in the fuel line leading to the carb.  It looks like you're done quite a bit to try and insulate the carb itself, but try pouring cold water on the pump and hard line to see if this makes the problem go away.<br><br>Some other things to consider with fuel leaking out of a Holley are the gaskets.  It's fairly common when using rebuild kits for non-specific applications (and by that I mean for your specific list number.  A model number kit like a 4150 or 4160 is too generic) that the metering block or plate gaskets not correct.  The wrong gasket can cause fuel to leak out of the bowl and through the metering system into the throttle plate. </blockquote> RE: need advice on fuel pressure -- Gerry Proctor, 03/15/2002
I don't see this being related to fuel pressure, Steve. You would experience fuel pouring out of the vent tubes and boosters with the engine idling if the pump was blowing the needles off the seats. But for most Holleys, fuel pressure should be around five psi. You would probably be O.K, with up to seven psi, but you need a needle and seat assembly in good condition. Anything above seven psi and you're asking for it. Another thing to consider is fuel percolation in the fuel line leading to the carb. It looks like you're done quite a bit to try and insulate the carb itself, but try pouring cold water on the pump and hard line to see if this makes the problem go away.

Some other things to consider with fuel leaking out of a Holley are the gaskets. It's fairly common when using rebuild kits for non-specific applications (and by that I mean for your specific list number. A model number kit like a 4150 or 4160 is too generic) that the metering block or plate gaskets not correct. The wrong gasket can cause fuel to leak out of the bowl and through the metering system into the throttle plate.
 RE: need advice on fuel pressure -- John, 03/15/2002
I too have the dual quad set-up and I believe I run at 6.5 psi with no problems. I also suspect you have a carb problem. Holleys...they work well, are easy to modify, but OH! what a poor design. Side-Hung Float bowls...sheesh! Wouldn't dare try them in a boat...gas in the bilge...very bad! Internally though, they seem fairly reliable to me.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12042&Reply=12042><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Got my 427 blueprints...........THANKS     DAVE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>P, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>These are the wartime documents that show changes in the 427 design, necessary to keep the engine competitive.  Not all that "glamorous", but verrrrry interesting and historic.  <br><br>I'm in the design and construction business, and I'm familiar with the process of how documents eventually turn into buildings and systems.  <br><br>These engineering drawings were intended to form liquid metal to reach an eventual goal, and that was to put another "W" on the wall of Henry Ford's wall.  I'm kinda glad the guy had a big ego, and a big pocketbook.................. (Henry, thanks for spending all that doe.......we're still enjoying it many years later)!<br><br>The docs are obviously very technical in nature, and I'm still finding interesting things they did.  When you start with a blank sheet of paper, it is quite remarkable how the design eventyally concluded, with all of the refinements (like these) along the way.  Thanks again Dave,  (for being the...cough, cough, high bidder, and )  for sharing this information with the rest of us.<br><br>P </blockquote> Got my 427 blueprints...........THANKS DAVE -- P, 03/15/2002
These are the wartime documents that show changes in the 427 design, necessary to keep the engine competitive. Not all that "glamorous", but verrrrry interesting and historic.

I'm in the design and construction business, and I'm familiar with the process of how documents eventually turn into buildings and systems.

These engineering drawings were intended to form liquid metal to reach an eventual goal, and that was to put another "W" on the wall of Henry Ford's wall. I'm kinda glad the guy had a big ego, and a big pocketbook.................. (Henry, thanks for spending all that doe.......we're still enjoying it many years later)!

The docs are obviously very technical in nature, and I'm still finding interesting things they did. When you start with a blank sheet of paper, it is quite remarkable how the design eventyally concluded, with all of the refinements (like these) along the way. Thanks again Dave, (for being the...cough, cough, high bidder, and ) for sharing this information with the rest of us.

P
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12063&Reply=12042><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Me too!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/17/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I was fascinated to see the chart describing bore grading and the corresponding mark to be used. I have seen these painted marks on the inside of 427 blocks and thought I knew what they meant, now my suspicions have been confirmed. That was just one thing that was of interest, more study is required to see other morsels of info that are no doubt waiting to reveal themselves.<br><br>Thanks Dave!<br><br>Royce Peterson </blockquote> Me too! -- Royce Peterson, 03/17/2002
I was fascinated to see the chart describing bore grading and the corresponding mark to be used. I have seen these painted marks on the inside of 427 blocks and thought I knew what they meant, now my suspicions have been confirmed. That was just one thing that was of interest, more study is required to see other morsels of info that are no doubt waiting to reveal themselves.

Thanks Dave!

Royce Peterson
 RE: Me too! -- Bob, 03/19/2002
You guys mentioned paint markings?
several years ago, I purchased a virgin 427 68 block.
It was still in its container, since 1968. Before the engine was assembled or painted, I took pictures of it in hopes to find out what these paint colors meant.
I never did.

Blue
White
Wellow
Pink

Of course these markings where in the intake gallery, and both sides of the block, and as well a the side oiler passage, and oil filter boss, too

Thanks
Bob
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12030&Reply=12030><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>superceded FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>mikeb, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Those of you who were old enough to remember hearing that ford was coming out with a new big-block what were your expectations vs the reality once it was available?<br>grasshopper here would appreciate your recollections.<br>thanks </blockquote> superceded FE -- mikeb, 03/14/2002
Those of you who were old enough to remember hearing that ford was coming out with a new big-block what were your expectations vs the reality once it was available?
grasshopper here would appreciate your recollections.
thanks
 RE: superceded FE -- Norm F., 03/15/2002
Well at the time I raced Boss 302 Mustangs but we all realized the FE was running out of dispacement. Chevy had a 454 , Olds,Buick,Pontiac had a 455 , Mopar had the 440. The 385 series (429/460) engine had "Chevy Style" heads , and dispacement growth , it really is a more "robust engine" . As a 429 they didn't perform as well as the 427/428 FE , at first,(too much reciprocating mass) they didn't accelerate as quick , but cubic inch growth made up for this over time.Today its punched out to 550-600 cu inches and will make 1400 on 1 dominator carb , getting 800 hp out of an old FE is a stretch. I happen to have a couple of FEs so thats what I tinker with , but given a clean sheet of paper I would go for the 429-460+ series of engines.
 RE: superceded FE -- GCF, 03/15/2002
I remember thinking it looked a lot like an upgraded big-block Chevy. The Boss was nice though it didn't have the attraction of the SOHC. I wondered why Ford just didn't stick a 428 crank in the 427 if they were going to stop at 460cid and save all the tooling costs.. Their crystal ball was set for further in the future than mine, I guess.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12021&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I called Comp Cams about the original 428 cam</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>They tell me that the 33-208-3 cam does the same thing only better. It is also a dual pattern cam like the original but only it does it with more lift instead of duration. Old cam = 480/490 lift and 224/232 duration with 114 lobe seperation and I don't remember what centerline it is ground on. New cam = 515/541 lift and 219/232 duration with 110 lobe seperation on 106 centerline. I look at these two cams and I don't think they share few simularities other than being dual paterned with a simular exhaust duration. I do not have a dyno program but if one of you does have one I would be curious about its two cents worth along with the opinion of wiser heads. </blockquote> I called Comp Cams about the original 428 cam -- James, 03/14/2002
They tell me that the 33-208-3 cam does the same thing only better. It is also a dual pattern cam like the original but only it does it with more lift instead of duration. Old cam = 480/490 lift and 224/232 duration with 114 lobe seperation and I don't remember what centerline it is ground on. New cam = 515/541 lift and 219/232 duration with 110 lobe seperation on 106 centerline. I look at these two cams and I don't think they share few simularities other than being dual paterned with a simular exhaust duration. I do not have a dyno program but if one of you does have one I would be curious about its two cents worth along with the opinion of wiser heads.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12023&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: I called Comp Cams about the original 428 cam</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Norm F., <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I would agree , I have a couple of files set up in Dyno2000 for 428s , one for the motor in my 68 and another for a motor I am building now . Since your motor is similar I ran a simulation using it and the two cams you describe. The 33-208-3 is about 5 hp better at the peak of 5500 RPM than the "old cam". <br>   I run a solid cam with 227/227 and 505 net lift and the simulation says I make 410 HP at 5000RPM or about 15 or 16 HP less than the 33-208-3 , but the simulation says my torque curve is broader so I would be hard pressed to see much of a performance difference . I run 13.5 to 13.6 at 104 to 105 in the quarter with street tires, closed exhaust ,4 spd,2 1/4 exhaust and tri-y headers and 3:89-1 gears. <br>    So with the CompCam with a similar combo you might run low 13s but unless you use slicks or drag radials and large tube headers you probably won't get into the 12s but you get close and the 33-208-3 will probably be a nice all around cam with a good idle  and broad power curve. <br>     If you do some head work with a good exhaust, a 2500-2800 stall converter and a 3:70 to 3:90-1 rear gear you probably would get into the 12s. <br>     Hope this helps.Bottom line is the 33-208-3 looks like a good pick. </blockquote> RE: I called Comp Cams about the original 428 cam -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
I would agree , I have a couple of files set up in Dyno2000 for 428s , one for the motor in my 68 and another for a motor I am building now . Since your motor is similar I ran a simulation using it and the two cams you describe. The 33-208-3 is about 5 hp better at the peak of 5500 RPM than the "old cam".
I run a solid cam with 227/227 and 505 net lift and the simulation says I make 410 HP at 5000RPM or about 15 or 16 HP less than the 33-208-3 , but the simulation says my torque curve is broader so I would be hard pressed to see much of a performance difference . I run 13.5 to 13.6 at 104 to 105 in the quarter with street tires, closed exhaust ,4 spd,2 1/4 exhaust and tri-y headers and 3:89-1 gears.
So with the CompCam with a similar combo you might run low 13s but unless you use slicks or drag radials and large tube headers you probably won't get into the 12s but you get close and the 33-208-3 will probably be a nice all around cam with a good idle and broad power curve.
If you do some head work with a good exhaust, a 2500-2800 stall converter and a 3:70 to 3:90-1 rear gear you probably would get into the 12s.
Hope this helps.Bottom line is the 33-208-3 looks like a good pick.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12026&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Thanks Norm. My .514 lift 223 was quite a cam but</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>It went round so I am replacing it with the one previously mentioned. You have me curious about what the software has to say about the .514 lift cam.  It had 112 lobe seperation with a 110 cl. I have a pi intake, Edelbrock heads and headers with 2 1/2" exhaust with 3:50 gears and a c6 automatic with a stock converter. Out of the three, which is the pick of the litter? I am curious about hp and torque numbers. </blockquote> Thanks Norm. My .514 lift 223 was quite a cam but -- James, 03/14/2002
It went round so I am replacing it with the one previously mentioned. You have me curious about what the software has to say about the .514 lift cam. It had 112 lobe seperation with a 110 cl. I have a pi intake, Edelbrock heads and headers with 2 1/2" exhaust with 3:50 gears and a c6 automatic with a stock converter. Out of the three, which is the pick of the litter? I am curious about hp and torque numbers.
 RE: Thanks Norm. My .514 lift 223 was quite a cam but -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
Both HP and torque are lower . about 10-15 HP .
I see you have the Edelbrock heads which are better than CJ heads . With the Comp Cam a little bit of converter (about 2500 Stall )and Drag Radials your in the 12s.
Jet the carb about 72 to 74 in the primaries and 74-80 in the secondary s to start out , timing 12-14 degrees initial and 38-42 total coming in at 3000RPM,
Use the 108 leaded gas at the track in order to crank up the timing. I find FEs like lots of timing 40-44 typically.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12027&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: I called Comp Cams about the original 428 cam</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Norm F., <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>As far as the 2 cams being similar you would need to know the Intake opening degree number and the Exhaust opening degree number for each cam . The sum of these 2 numbers is the "overlap" which is how we compared cams in the "old days" before manufacturers used @.050 duration figures and I bet both of these cams are between 46 degrees and  50 degrees. The greater the overlap number the bigger the cam. <br>  If 2 cams have the same duration but have different Lobe Displacement Angles like 114 vs 110 the smaller (110) will have more overlap. </blockquote> RE: I called Comp Cams about the original 428 cam -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
As far as the 2 cams being similar you would need to know the Intake opening degree number and the Exhaust opening degree number for each cam . The sum of these 2 numbers is the "overlap" which is how we compared cams in the "old days" before manufacturers used @.050 duration figures and I bet both of these cams are between 46 degrees and 50 degrees. The greater the overlap number the bigger the cam.
If 2 cams have the same duration but have different Lobe Displacement Angles like 114 vs 110 the smaller (110) will have more overlap.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12031&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>The .514 lift cam has an over lap of 47. 45.5+1.5</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> The .514 lift cam has an over lap of 47. 45.5+1.5 -- James, 03/14/2002
n/m
 RE: The .514 lift cam has an over lap of 47. 45.5+1.5 -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
Whats the 33-208-3 look like ? ("Fords"CJ cam was 46 degrees)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12028&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE:Original 428 cam specs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>SDP, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>From the info I have, the original Fomoco CJ grind was 206/221 @.050 and ground on a 115 lobe seperation. Is this fact or fiction? </blockquote> RE:Original 428 cam specs -- SDP, 03/14/2002
From the info I have, the original Fomoco CJ grind was 206/221 @.050 and ground on a 115 lobe seperation. Is this fact or fiction?
 RE:Original 428 cam specs -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
Hard to tell (they did not use @.050 duration figures in the 60s) , we used overlap calculations . Out of all the rehash grinds the Lunati CJ equivilent looks the closest.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12034&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Old cam specs do not  include @ .050 but.....</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>The book I have is Pat Ganahl's Ford Performance copywrighted back in 1979. On page 54 it list the 428 CJ cam as having an advertised duration of 270 int. and 290 exh. with an overlap of 46 degrees. </blockquote> Old cam specs do not include @ .050 but..... -- James, 03/14/2002
The book I have is Pat Ganahl's Ford Performance copywrighted back in 1979. On page 54 it list the 428 CJ cam as having an advertised duration of 270 int. and 290 exh. with an overlap of 46 degrees.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12035&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Old cam specs do not  include @ .050 but.....</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Norm F., <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote> I agree , I have a set of original Ford Muscle Parts Books circa 1969 and the numbers match for the advertised duration and the overlap ,46 degrees </blockquote> RE: Old cam specs do not include @ .050 but..... -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
I agree , I have a set of original Ford Muscle Parts Books circa 1969 and the numbers match for the advertised duration and the overlap ,46 degrees
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12036&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>How does the 223 single patterns stack up?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Most every one building an automatic car that I know is going with the 223 to 224 duration cam. I am curious how these cams stack up to the "old cam" design from the sixties. I have the card on the Lunati 223 @ .050 .514 lift that is getting alot of attention right now. It has a 112 lobe seperation on a 110 center line. </blockquote> How does the 223 single patterns stack up? -- James, 03/14/2002
Most every one building an automatic car that I know is going with the 223 to 224 duration cam. I am curious how these cams stack up to the "old cam" design from the sixties. I have the card on the Lunati 223 @ .050 .514 lift that is getting alot of attention right now. It has a 112 lobe seperation on a 110 center line.
 RE: How does the 223 single patterns stack up? -- Norm F., 03/15/2002
Your Comp Cams pick is about 15 hp more and the original CJ cam is about 5 hp more (simulation)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12052&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Hey Norm! Guess what I found hiding in...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Guess what I found hiding in the Comp Cam warehouse from about ten years back. It is a cam that has 222/226 duration @ .050 and has .544 lift. This cam got lost in the last publicity blitz that Comp Cam had with the Magnum, High Energy and all the other whiz bang slogans they cam up with along with the new cam grinds to match. They never sold that many of these cams so they were not included in the new catalogs. Comp Cams thought they were gonna have to eat them I guess. I descovered it by talking to one of the oldest techs at Comp. He told me that it is a great cam and said that it makes more power with a wider power band than the single pattern cams he sees becoming so popular. He was telling me that the stock cam had to much seperation on the duration pattern that it made the car a slug on the bottom end. I canceled the old order and placed a new one. I will be the ginny pig on this one and let all my fellow FE crusaders know how it goes.  </blockquote> Hey Norm! Guess what I found hiding in... -- James, 03/15/2002
Guess what I found hiding in the Comp Cam warehouse from about ten years back. It is a cam that has 222/226 duration @ .050 and has .544 lift. This cam got lost in the last publicity blitz that Comp Cam had with the Magnum, High Energy and all the other whiz bang slogans they cam up with along with the new cam grinds to match. They never sold that many of these cams so they were not included in the new catalogs. Comp Cams thought they were gonna have to eat them I guess. I descovered it by talking to one of the oldest techs at Comp. He told me that it is a great cam and said that it makes more power with a wider power band than the single pattern cams he sees becoming so popular. He was telling me that the stock cam had to much seperation on the duration pattern that it made the car a slug on the bottom end. I canceled the old order and placed a new one. I will be the ginny pig on this one and let all my fellow FE crusaders know how it goes.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12054&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Hey Norm! Guess what I found hiding in...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>So what's the number.  Have you got the detailed spec's so I can plug it into Dyno2000? </blockquote> RE: Hey Norm! Guess what I found hiding in... -- Bob, 03/15/2002
So what's the number. Have you got the detailed spec's so I can plug it into Dyno2000?
 Not yet. The cam will be here about Wed -- James, 03/15/2002
I can call and ask them more specifics on the cam Monday.
 RE: Hey Norm! Guess what I found hiding in... -- Norm F., 03/15/2002
James
I would go with this one , probably a better choice with the Edelbrock heads. The 219/232 cam might be a better choice with the CJ heads. A little more stall speed would not hurt either , headers and good exhaust with a little more gear and you will get in the 12s , good luck
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12073&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Despite what Comp Cams said.......</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Kevin197, <i>03/18/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>I don't believe that the original 428CJ/390GT cam had 224/232 @0.050 duration. I think it was much milder than that. These figures appear to be from what Lunati refers to as their "version" of Ford's CJ/GT cam. I also think that the LSA was even wider than 114. </blockquote> Despite what Comp Cams said....... -- Kevin197, 03/18/2002
I don't believe that the original 428CJ/390GT cam had 224/232 @0.050 duration. I think it was much milder than that. These figures appear to be from what Lunati refers to as their "version" of Ford's CJ/GT cam. I also think that the LSA was even wider than 114.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12080&Reply=12021><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Ford said 117 degrees L.C.....</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ray, <i>03/18/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thats what I'm getting on my computor dyno for one of cams. @ 'o' lift, Int, 18 BTC x 72 ABC- Exh, 82 x 28 @ 270 & 290 duration with 46 degrees overlape. This information came out of  hi-per ford parts manuel Ray </blockquote> RE: Ford said 117 degrees L.C..... -- Ray, 03/18/2002
Thats what I'm getting on my computor dyno for one of cams. @ 'o' lift, Int, 18 BTC x 72 ABC- Exh, 82 x 28 @ 270 & 290 duration with 46 degrees overlape. This information came out of hi-per ford parts manuel Ray
 RE: And then ford said 115.5 degrees L.C..... -- Ray, 03/18/2002
Fords street and strip cam is, @ '0' lift Int,24x78/ Exh, 82x34 degrees, 282x296 duration which has a built in advance 5 crank degrees .500x.509 lift. Ray
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12018&Reply=12018><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Harmonic balancer installed position on crank.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>This may seem like a dumb question but here it goes. Is the harmonic balancer supposed to be flush with the nose of the crank or slightly forward of it? I got it on there the best I could the last time I put it on but it was slightly forward of the nose. Anyone know for sure? </blockquote> Harmonic balancer installed position on crank. -- James, 03/14/2002
This may seem like a dumb question but here it goes. Is the harmonic balancer supposed to be flush with the nose of the crank or slightly forward of it? I got it on there the best I could the last time I put it on but it was slightly forward of the nose. Anyone know for sure?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12047&Reply=12018><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>IT's gotta st a bit forward.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave Shoe, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>The damper must not sit flush with the end of the crank.  It needs to tug on the snout (using the damper bolt) to clamp the damper/spacer/slinger, and crank gear into one solid mass.<br><br>Shoe. </blockquote> IT's gotta st a bit forward. -- Dave Shoe, 03/15/2002
The damper must not sit flush with the end of the crank. It needs to tug on the snout (using the damper bolt) to clamp the damper/spacer/slinger, and crank gear into one solid mass.

Shoe.
 Thanks Shoe. -- James, 03/15/2002
I was out there looking at it yesterday and kinda figured it out by the way the spacer sets against the timing chain cover. You know, the spacer that goes between the back of the balancer and the front of the cover. It not being flush with end of the crank just doesn't look real tidey but that is the way it is. Thanks again. James
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12006&Reply=12006><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 & 428 heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Marc, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Are 390 & 428 heads interchangeable, what are the valve dia?<br>Thanks </blockquote> 390 & 428 heads -- Marc, 03/14/2002
Are 390 & 428 heads interchangeable, what are the valve dia?
Thanks
 RE: 390 & 428 heads -- Mike McQuesten, 03/14/2002
Essentially they're all the same. But there's one exception, the head casting # C8OE-N. That's the 428 Cobra Jet. The valve sizes on this head are 2.09- Intake/ 1.66-Exhaust.

A good all around head to look for is the C6AE-R. A very similar combustion chamber to the C8OE-N. They have the "tall" intake port. They have the provisions cast by the exhaust ports to accept either the CJ or the GT/uni-body exhaust manifolds. Some of the '66 heads are already drilled/tapped for the GT/uni-body manifolds.

My too many cents worth is that the C6AE-R is as good as the Cobra Jet C8OE-N except for concours "correct" 428CJ powered cars.
 RE: 390 & 428 heads -- joe dula, 03/14/2002
yes they are interchangeable. bore diameters are 4.05 and 4.13 on the 390 and 428. standard valve diameters are 2.02int, 1.55 exh most 390's. 2.08 and 1.6 on 428 cj. there are some minor diffs in chamber cc's and exhaust manifold bolt patterns.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=11996&Reply=11996><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390GT  block #</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Gary h., <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Could a c6me block be a 390GT from a 66 fairlane GT?In the search,there was even the chance it was a 428. </blockquote> 390GT block # -- Gary h., 03/14/2002
Could a c6me block be a 390GT from a 66 fairlane GT?In the search,there was even the chance it was a 428.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=11999&Reply=11996><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>It could be anything except a 427.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>That casting was used on all FE displacements except the 427. Measure the bore and stroke to determine what you really have. The date code of the block should be 2 - 12 weeks prior to the car's construction if it is the original one from the car.<br><br>royce Peterson  </blockquote> It could be anything except a 427. -- Royce Peterson, 03/14/2002
That casting was used on all FE displacements except the 427. Measure the bore and stroke to determine what you really have. The date code of the block should be 2 - 12 weeks prior to the car's construction if it is the original one from the car.

royce Peterson
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12003&Reply=11996><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Re: c6me</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike McQuesten, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey look at two threads down....another similar question from john.   <br><br>Royce is right as usual.    A C6ME cast block could be most anything from '66 into and maybe through '67.  Might be a few in '68 even.   But what I've found is that often a plain just C6ME  casting is a red flag of a heavier duty than regular FE block.  There's going to be exceptions for sure.   We FE fans live by that rule of exceptions.   <br><br>An example:   I have a C6ME that is a 391 FT block.   It has 428 thick cylinders.   In the center expansion hole I can see a little tiny '428'.  That's a good sign!   I've had the block sonic checked.  I had it bored .030 over the stock 4.13 because I wanted it that way.  And there's plenty of cylinder wall left to keep the coolant temp down on the street.  My FT '428' also has all the heavy duty casting provisions for cross bolts.  Which I'm doing too.   <br><br>So have that C6ME sonic tested to find out what you've got for sure.   A 4.13 over bore may be very possible.  If it's not already 428.<br><br>As for date code look for something small that will start out with a 6 or a 7 The year...'66 or '67;  followed by a alpha letter like A - January,  L - November, there is no letter I used, followed by a number or two indicating the day of that month in that year that the block was cast.   I think mine has a 7A20, 1/20/67. </blockquote> Re: c6me -- Mike McQuesten, 03/14/2002
Hey look at two threads down....another similar question from john.

Royce is right as usual. A C6ME cast block could be most anything from '66 into and maybe through '67. Might be a few in '68 even. But what I've found is that often a plain just C6ME casting is a red flag of a heavier duty than regular FE block. There's going to be exceptions for sure. We FE fans live by that rule of exceptions.

An example: I have a C6ME that is a 391 FT block. It has 428 thick cylinders. In the center expansion hole I can see a little tiny '428'. That's a good sign! I've had the block sonic checked. I had it bored .030 over the stock 4.13 because I wanted it that way. And there's plenty of cylinder wall left to keep the coolant temp down on the street. My FT '428' also has all the heavy duty casting provisions for cross bolts. Which I'm doing too.

So have that C6ME sonic tested to find out what you've got for sure. A 4.13 over bore may be very possible. If it's not already 428.

As for date code look for something small that will start out with a 6 or a 7 The year...'66 or '67; followed by a alpha letter like A - January, L - November, there is no letter I used, followed by a number or two indicating the day of that month in that year that the block was cast. I think mine has a 7A20, 1/20/67.
 atttn mike -- john, 03/14/2002
is there a common place that ford like to stamp the date code?
 I'll bet some 427s got it, too. -- Dave Shoe, 03/15/2002
Here's a 427co block that got the ubiquitous C7ME-A markings:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1811795440&r=0&t=0

I'll bet there's a bunch of C6ME marked 427s around.

These mold markings have nothing to do with the casting construction of the block - the cores stuffed into the mold determine this. C6ME was generically marked onto any FE block casting.

JMO,
Shoe.
 RE: 390GT block # -- Norm F., 03/14/2002
Yes.. see my comments on the "help iding the block question a couple of topics below this one.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=11995&Reply=11995><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>electronic ignition for 352</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>LINDEN JOHNSON, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can anyone help me w/advice on an electronic unit for my '59 352? I would like to go to a Ford drop in unit as opposed to the Petronix unit which I know is good. I just feel a little more confident w/a factory unit. I frankly don't know if Ford made an electronic FE distributor. <br>Thanks for any help guys.<br>Linden J.<br>www.59ford.com<br> </blockquote> electronic ignition for 352 -- LINDEN JOHNSON, 03/14/2002
Can anyone help me w/advice on an electronic unit for my '59 352? I would like to go to a Ford drop in unit as opposed to the Petronix unit which I know is good. I just feel a little more confident w/a factory unit. I frankly don't know if Ford made an electronic FE distributor.
Thanks for any help guys.
Linden J.
www.59ford.com
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=11997&Reply=11995><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: electronic ignition for 352</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BOB HOPKINS, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Sure a 75-75 F100 has a Ford electronic ing. go to yard and remove the dist., harness controll box and wire it into yours. </blockquote> RE: electronic ignition for 352 -- BOB HOPKINS, 03/14/2002
Sure a 75-75 F100 has a Ford electronic ing. go to yard and remove the dist., harness controll box and wire it into yours.
 RE: electronic ignition for 352 -- Bob H., 03/14/2002
I ment to say with a 390" FE allthough any electronic ing. will be adtable to your point dist, a 390" is common and easiest.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12000&Reply=11995><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: '76 was the year</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike McQuesten, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi Linden.  Haven't stopped by the fabulous '59Ford.com site lately.  I'm going there after this little piece of info for you.   <br><br>There will be others that visit/contribute here regularly that can provide you some details.  I hope to get the ball rolling on this for you.  Yes, Ford did offer an electronic ignition system for the FE.  Maybe it was in '75 too?  But I know for sure that in the last year of a production USA built vehicle with FE power, 1976, the pick ups got the DuraSpark system with module and electronic distributor.  These are available from various parts houses, NAPA for sure, as rebuilds.   Other should know more.<br><br>I had my '69 Cobra Jet Distributor, C8OE.... converted to electronic internals using a late seventies era 302 distributor as the organ donor.  I still run that exact distributor in my 390 in my '68 F100 with an MSD 6A unit.  It has never given me a bit of trouble.   <br><br>Now, did those Kafton Bros. ever send you some digital pics of their '57 & '59s powered by hard running 427s?  Honest to goodness guys, I have video of Steve Kafton running a '59 Ford 2 door post sedan with a 390 & C6 in the low 11's.   And he drives it on the street...occasionally.  He has re-powered it with a 427 and it's much more streetable than the 390 was.  You can imagine how built the 390 was to have it be able to pull the front wheels of that all steel '59 over a foot in the air off the line on its way to running low 11's. Anyway Linden, I now have a digital camera and I may have to go get those pics myself. </blockquote> RE: '76 was the year -- Mike McQuesten, 03/14/2002
Hi Linden. Haven't stopped by the fabulous '59Ford.com site lately. I'm going there after this little piece of info for you.

There will be others that visit/contribute here regularly that can provide you some details. I hope to get the ball rolling on this for you. Yes, Ford did offer an electronic ignition system for the FE. Maybe it was in '75 too? But I know for sure that in the last year of a production USA built vehicle with FE power, 1976, the pick ups got the DuraSpark system with module and electronic distributor. These are available from various parts houses, NAPA for sure, as rebuilds. Other should know more.

I had my '69 Cobra Jet Distributor, C8OE.... converted to electronic internals using a late seventies era 302 distributor as the organ donor. I still run that exact distributor in my 390 in my '68 F100 with an MSD 6A unit. It has never given me a bit of trouble.

Now, did those Kafton Bros. ever send you some digital pics of their '57 & '59s powered by hard running 427s? Honest to goodness guys, I have video of Steve Kafton running a '59 Ford 2 door post sedan with a 390 & C6 in the low 11's. And he drives it on the street...occasionally. He has re-powered it with a 427 and it's much more streetable than the 390 was. You can imagine how built the 390 was to have it be able to pull the front wheels of that all steel '59 over a foot in the air off the line on its way to running low 11's. Anyway Linden, I now have a digital camera and I may have to go get those pics myself.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12017&Reply=11995><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I am running the 76 360 FE truck dist.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>James, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>It has the cap that uses the same sparkplug wires as the old 428 distributor and it works great. If you get the Ford electronics to go with it, I am told that you want the one with the blue dot on it as it revs a little higher than the one with the yellow dot. (One hell of a way to keep up with that crap) I use the MSD-6a and like it. It is much more sightly than the Ford unit and it provides a better spark. Also, you will want the plug in from the Ford unit to splice it in with the MSD if you decide to go that way. </blockquote> I am running the 76 360 FE truck dist. -- James, 03/14/2002
It has the cap that uses the same sparkplug wires as the old 428 distributor and it works great. If you get the Ford electronics to go with it, I am told that you want the one with the blue dot on it as it revs a little higher than the one with the yellow dot. (One hell of a way to keep up with that crap) I use the MSD-6a and like it. It is much more sightly than the Ford unit and it provides a better spark. Also, you will want the plug in from the Ford unit to splice it in with the MSD if you decide to go that way.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12025&Reply=11995><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Thanks guys!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>LINDEN JOHNSON, <i>03/14/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks guys...............I think I'll stay w/the Petronix given the rarity of the FE electronic unit. Hey Mike......I am now waiting to see some pics of that stump pulling '59! Now that you have the digital camera, there's no excuse.. (lol)..........I actually emailed that gentleman and never ever heard from him................too busy workin on the big Ford I guess.<br>Thanks again guys!<br>LJ </blockquote> Thanks guys! -- LINDEN JOHNSON, 03/14/2002
Thanks guys...............I think I'll stay w/the Petronix given the rarity of the FE electronic unit. Hey Mike......I am now waiting to see some pics of that stump pulling '59! Now that you have the digital camera, there's no excuse.. (lol)..........I actually emailed that gentleman and never ever heard from him................too busy workin on the big Ford I guess.
Thanks again guys!
LJ
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=12039&Reply=11995><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE durasparks are a dime a dozen if.......</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>hawkrod, <i>03/15/2002</i></font><br /><blockquote>an original FE duraspark distributor is kind of tough to get as they only came on 74-76 trucks (and not all of them at that). the wiring and stuff on the 74 and 75's is useless because of the design and in 76 they redesigned the module and used that style till they went to computer control. finding an original distributor is actually a waste of your time as they can be made really easily. all you need is the 65? and newer FE distributor body and shaft and a 302 duraspark distributor for the guts. you simply use the breaker plate and upper tower from the 302 distributor in the FE points distributor housing. the only thing you need to do is either cut the wires and feed them through the hole or cut the notch to the hole to look like the 302 distributor. as far as wiring goes i have found a much easier solution in the form of an AM General postal jeep! for some reason they used duraspark on these and in order to save money they never updated the wiring harness for the electronic ignition. what they did instead was design an overlay wiring harness that connects to the original wiring. there are three wires to hook up. one plugs into the stock coil wire. one connects to the I terminal on the solenoid and the other connects to the S terminal on the solenoid. it would be easy to build your own harness but i have a friend who got a post office contract to scrap these jeeps and i have been pulling the wiring and modules (figured i would sell them on e-bay!). it is an inexpensive and easy swap and i did it on my 62 tbird and a several customers cars. the duraspark is great because it retards the timing while cranking so it starts easier (really nice if you have high compression or heat soak problems!). dr. jacobs of jacobs ignition says the duraspark is one of the best systems available and also says they are good to 8K with the right coil and some minor mods (i have an article he wrote about hooking up some extra wires a little differently). the duraspark is too easy and well proven to pass up for a pertronics. besides where do you get replacement pertronics parts while visiting lovelock nevada? duraspark parts are everywhere! my 2 cents. hawkrod </blockquote> FE durasparks are a dime a dozen if....... -- hawkrod, 03/15/2002
an original FE duraspark distributor is kind of tough to get as they only came on 74-76 trucks (and not all of them at that). the wiring and stuff on the 74 and 75's is useless because of the design and in 76 they redesigned the module and used that style till they went to computer control. finding an original distributor is actually a waste of your time as they can be made really easily. all you need is the 65? and newer FE distributor body and shaft and a 302 duraspark distributor for the guts. you simply use the breaker plate and upper tower from the 302 distributor in the FE points distributor housing. the only thing you need to do is either cut the wires and feed them through the hole or cut the notch to the hole to look like the 302 distributor. as far as wiring goes i have found a much easier solution in the form of an AM General postal jeep! for some reason they used duraspark on these and in order to save money they never updated the wiring harness for the electronic ignition. what they did instead was design an overlay wiring harness that connects to the original wiring. there are three wires to hook up. one plugs into the stock coil wire. one connects to the I terminal on the solenoid and the other connects to the S terminal on the solenoid. it would be easy to build your own harness but i have a friend who got a post office contract to scrap these jeeps and i have been pulling the wiring and modules (figured i would sell them on e-bay!). it is an inexpensive and easy swap and i did it on my 62 tbird and a several customers cars. the duraspark is great because it retards the timing while cranking so it starts easier (really nice if you have high compression or heat soak problems!). dr. jacobs of jacobs ignition says the duraspark is one of the best systems available and also says they are good to 8K with the right coil and some minor mods (i have an article he wrote about hooking up some extra wires a little differently). the duraspark is too easy and well proven to pass up for a pertronics. besides where do you get replacement pertronics parts while visiting lovelock nevada? duraspark parts are everywhere! my 2 cents. hawkrod
 RE: FE durasparks are a dime a dozen if....... -- Bob H., 03/15/2002
You guys know MSD makes a replacement for the Duraspark module complete with the multi-spark feature boltin / plug in to harness was last timeI priced it $100.+
 Hawkrod can I buy a couple of those -- tbolt, 03/20/2002
post office truck wiring harness? Dave Rink @602 971-5991-1
 here is one on E-bay -- Bob H., 03/15/2002
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1812899503
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