Eric needs help you guys! Are we all at work.....and can't check this out to make sure? I know that's my problem.....work, ya that's it. It's lunch! I can do what I want.

So Eric I "think" your cam retaining bolts/phillips/socket head bolts should be 3/8" ...... just two of 'em. But you should get the specific bolts for this purpose. You don't have them? I think Ford still does but probably not on the shelf anymore. I don't think you should use what Home Depot offers.

Timing set cover: two sizes, 5/16" for the top ones and 3/8" for the lower ones. Again, I'm just guessing so you don't feel ignored.

kevin or Travis are pobably laughing right now 'cause they don't even think about something this mundane. But I understand eric. I'll check back later when I'm home and then I'll check and re post with the facts if no one else has helped us out.

Thanks for the responses. I'll have to see if I can locate the retainer bolts now.

re.410 pistons ---- Ron Miller at Ford Power Parts can help you, he has them in stock-- phone # (562)921-5300 --good luck

Most auto parts stores can, if they want spend the time to get-um. Badger sells them in .030/.040&.060, if you can't find them 'e' mail me I'll get them for you. There a good cast piston and the only ones i'll use. Ray PS if you want to see the piston on my web site go to, www.puudog.com

I have some. Ford Power Parts 9.5:1 compression ratio. Never used.

forgot these are .030 oversized

my opinion

WAY overpriced, all you get is a top oiler block and a set of CJ/low riser rods... everything else is generic 390 stuff. If it's cheap enough, buy it. but add up the prices for the parts that are usuable before plunking down more than $1500 for one.

Be VERY suspicious of salt water getting into it. look down the water jackets with a light to see if cylinder walls are corroded badly.

First, what does a new "427" block cost? I do not know. Second, don't even consider plunking down $3500 for the "buy it now" one on Ebay. As the other post said, all of the stuff except the block is basic low performance 352/390 stuff. Here are the benefits, with a Marine 427, you get the big bore 4.23 crossbolt block that will take any big valve 427 heads. No other FE block will take big valve heads without modification. Also, marine 427's can still be found that are in good enough condition to stay standard bore, a big $ savings with 427's. Performance wise, the sideoiler does NOTHING for performance. If yo want a genuine crossbolt 427 that you could put med riser, or TP heads on then the marine will probably be your best buy. You can find good units for $1500 or less. Do not, Repeat DO not get carried away and buy a "Complete" marine engine for $3500. By the time you get through with it you will have too much money in it.

Good luck

C6ME 390 or a 428 used in 66-67 T-Birds , Full Size Fords, some had blocked lifter oil feeds on Police Interceptor solid lifter motors , some even wound up in early 67 shelbys . If its a 390 it does not automatically mean it can be bored out to 428 size but maybe , you need to sonic it. (I actually have 2 428s , 1 is the C6ME and the other is a C6ME-A.)

The heads you list are regular 390 heads and probably have bosses on the exhaust side to drill and tap additional holes for 14-bolt exhaust manifolds ?These heads with a little porting and Cobra Jet valves flow just as good at a fraction of the cost. Compression ratio depends on piston type etc but these heads are probably 68 to 70 cc.

The exhaust manifold you identify looks like standard passenger car , right side ? nothing special.

n/m

n/m

Hi,
Sounds like a cool car. Sounds like a 65 Marine engine if the owner said it was not a side oiler, The easiest way to tell is to look on the drivers side of the engnine just above the crossbolt heads, between those and the core plugs. If it IS a side oiler, you will see 3 small machined plugs, 1 just above each crossbolt head. IF not, you have a center oiler. oiler filter is a PH8, oil? I like Castrol GTX, weight? Depends on how and where you drive, 30-40wght should be OK.
Good Luck

Don’t use the cheap Fram PH8A filters, I blew one off in my CJ. I like the NAPA Gold (WIX) filters. They’re much heavier, no junk plastic parts inside plus a better filter media.

The original linkage that came with the car has a bottom clutch rod with a bolt looking piece on the end. The books show the rod having a pointer end that fits into the clutch fork. Which is right, The original linkage rod did have a pointy end. It was made from from a piece of hex-stock, drilled & tapped. Obviously, it would follow that the clutch 'fork' (Ford called it a lever) had a matching depression....not a hole. But even Ford replacement parts deviate from the originals. Frankly, all you need is something that pushes on the 'fork' without flexing much or falling off as you drive. if its the clutch fork with a hole in it, are the 429's, 428's, and 390's the same? No - Ford made dozens of different 'forks', which vary by engine and model year. Here again, just contrive the set of 'fork' and linkage-rod so they match. Lots of rods will work - you just need one that's long enough to fit and while still providing some adjustability. Hope this helps. If you need part numbers for the original stuff, let me know. Mr F

If you exclude the cam from the shorblock, yes, they are.