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 |  Fe Fuel Filter ?? -- Ron Vesterby, 01/04/2002
Can someone tell me if the fuel filter pictured is a FE variety. Also is it correct for a 61- 390 - 401 HP motor ? And does it have any value ? It is amongest my FE stuff.
Thanks
Ron
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|  | Sure is. -- Royce Peterson, 01/04/2002
These were used on High Performance FE applications through 1967. It would be coreect for some 390, 406 and 427 engines. I have seen them sell on E-Bay for $100.00.
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE:and the '60 HP 352... -- Mike McQuesten, 01/04/2002
Just a reminder, this fuel filter was used on the 1960, 352HP/360 horse package also. I'm not positive if this was the first application of this high flowing fuel filter? I've not seen it on earlier applications yet.....but someone will post a picture here real soon.
I've also seen them with a 5/16" inlet/outlet fuel line. That would make it a non HP filter. The HP's have 3/8" inlet/outlet. I'm not sure on the application of the 5/16" filter....maybe taxis or early police packages of '60 or '61? |
| | | | RE:and the '60 HP 352... -- Richard, 01/04/2002
The 5/16" inlet and outlet ones were Ford's replacement for the 312 "E" and "F" engines. It replaced the "Trash-Can" looking ones that were prone to leak. Both styles 3/8" and 5/16" were made by Holley. If you look in Holley's catalogs from the '60s and '70s you'll see them. |
| | | | | RE:For Holley? -- David Siedschlag, 01/04/2002
This isn't what cougar used in 67 when they put the Holley on the 390GT is it? I was thinking the ones they used were a screw in type right on the carb itself. Correct or incorrect? David |
| | | | | | RE:For Holley? -- Mike McQuesten, 01/04/2002
No these were not used for '67 390GTs. I think the fuel pump had a built in or on filter for the 390GT? |
| | | | | | | RE:For Holley? -- Greg, 01/04/2002
I have a '60 352 hp in a T-bird conv and it has the filter that screws into the carb, not just rare but almost impossible to find. |
| | | | | | | | RE:For Holley? -- Ron Vesterby, 01/05/2002
I believe you are refering to the filter that screws into the left side of the front bowl of the Holley 4150 carb and the right side of the front bowl has a transfer tube to the rear bowl. If so the filter is Holley part 162-502, the transfer tube is also available from holley part number 26-51 and listed as fuel transfer tube OEM Ford. I have also purchased the screw in filter from autozone here in Houston, ask them to look up a fuel filter for a 71 Mustang with 429 engine, same item. Hope this helps you with a source. |
| | | | | | | |  | Careful - most 429 filters have 'large' inlet nipple [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/05/2002
n/m |
 | Re; 390 breathing system -- David Siedschlag, 01/03/2002
As many know I am building 67 cougar with 390. I have asked many questions and thanks for all the answers. One of my questions was on the correct carb spacer to go under my Holley. I got an answer on that and also where to go to get a repro. Before I spend the $85 they want for one I want to be sure I need one. My car is without emmissions. So I am fiquering all it needs to do is breath. I have a vent tube ass. and the brass fittings to put it to the intake. This line would go to the pass. side valve cover right? Then the drivers side valve cover would just have a vented oil filler cap, correct? There shouldn't be any thing to the air cleaner on these G/T motors should there? This comes to the carb spacer then. Does it need to have a hose conn. and if it so where the hell would it go? The other thing, the exhaust manifolds I bought, the passenger side has the valve in place. I don't need that either do I? It should just have the spacer in place should it not? Thanks David |
|  | RE: Re; 390 breathing system -- R Shannon, 01/04/2002
another thing to consider is what year intake and heads you are using. Basiclly both sides of the valve covers have to be vented, some use PCV valves, and some are vented through the oil filler cap. Later 60s stye routed vented crank case air through the carb or intake for emissions proposes. I think if you have a spacer a hose would have to be connected or plugged you would have a big vacuum leak at that point. usually both sides of the heads are vented, but depends on the year and intake and heads you are using. Maybe you'll get more of a specific answer than this. |
| | RE: Re; 390 breathing system -- Royce Peterson, 01/04/2002
David,
The plastic spacer is there to keep the fuel from boiling in the carb during heat soak after shutdown. The engine will be hard to start when hot without the spacer. There are no vacuum connections or any other connections on the spacer. It is there strictly as an insulator.
The PCV u - tube connects to the front and rear of the intake and to the PCV valve in the passenger side valve cover. The oil filler cap is a plain vented one. Be sure to get a PCV valve that is correct for your application, the wrong one might act like a vacuum leak and give you problems with power brakes, hesitation etc. I think Mr. Fomoco has some originals left in stock.
Hope this helps,
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: Re; 390 breathing system (Royce) -- David Siedschlag, 01/04/2002
That helps alot thanks. The mansfieldmustang web sight you pointed me to only listed the plastic spacer for 67 having a small tube connection on it. Any other suggestions as to where I can go to get that thing. Would anything else substitute in this case? Thanks again David
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| | RE: Re; 390 valve on pass. side exhaust -- David Siedschlag, 01/04/2002
I also asked the question of the valve on the pass. side exhaust. Did this get used in 67? (Royce?) David |
| | | RE: Re; 390 valve on pass. side exhaust -- Royce Peterson, 01/04/2002
Hi David,
The 1967 390 GT engines all came with the exhaust heat valve on the passenger side. Due to excessive warranty problems Ford eliminated it in 1968 and installed a spacer instead. I would go with a spacer.
The vacuum port on Mansfield's plastic spacer gets a rubber cap.
Royce Peterson |
| Coil Tag -- Bob, 01/03/2002
Say Royce how does this tag break down
410 Engine size =410
67 Year model = 1967
3 ??
6 Year made = 1966
L Month Made = November
330 ??
A ??
Thanks
Bob |
| | RE: Coil Tag -- Royce Peterson, 01/03/2002
Bob,
Here's the whole thing:
410 Engine size =410
67 Year model = 1967
3 = Change level
6 Year made = 1966
L Month Made = November
330 = 410 4V, Engine code M, Ford / Autolite Carb
A = Don't Know?
Hope this helps,
Royce |
| For Travis Miller.... -- kevin, 01/03/2002
I am trying to remember who won Pomona (winternat's) Pro Stock in 69. I cant seem to find out this info on NHRA's site and thought you could help. He put a gatejob on Landy and surprised everybody. Any sites for records would be appreciated too, thank you. |
| backfiring 428 cj -- Greg, 01/02/2002
Need help badly. All of the sudden my '69 machI 428 cj.backfires like crazy. It will idle pretty well but under anything other than the lightest throttle or load it lays down drastically and pops and crack through the exhaust. I've checked the plug wires and the firing order very carefully and they're correct. I've adjusted the timing from 10 btdc to 30btdc. and the backfiring is worse the lower it goes. I've checked fuel flow and it seems o.k. too.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Greg
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| | RE: backfiring 428 cj -- Tim B, 01/02/2002
Check vaccuum connections. mine acted like that.....AND the brakes were barely working. It was a loose P/B connection.
Tim B
1969 XR7 428 CJR convertible
http://members.aol.com/timbrands/index.html |
| | | RE: backfiring 428 cj -- Greg, 01/02/2002
Well the brakes don't work very well.... it has manual drums. Stopping takes some planning. I'll check the lines. Thanks
|
| | | | RE: backfiring 428 cj -- Davy Gurley, 01/02/2002
I'd go back to what I might have messed up when I was working on it and double check the plugs and wires again. Try another set. You may have bumped a plug and cracked the porcelin. That would make it miss and would be hard to spot. I think you are digging too deep for a fix. I find it hard to believe that your valves would decide to stick or your carb foul up just because you changed header gaskets. Your manual brake lines won't have any affect on the engine. If you have a booster, it will have a vacumm line, but from what I understand you have manual brakes. Good luck |
| | | | Check the compression. -- Dave Shoe, 01/02/2002
You may also want to check the compression to determine whether a head gasket has started leaking into a neighboring cylinder, and to also be sure your valves are in good shape.
When compression checks out OK, I'd revisit the plug wires and distributor cap. Look under the hood when it's very dark (at night - not in a garage) and idle the motor. If you are backfiring severely under load you should be able to see blue glowing or arcing at the cap or plug wires someplace, even at idle. If you see nothing, then have someone put it in gear and load the motor, while you stand off to the side looking under the hood. The heavier mixture will almost certainly cause a light show if the problem isnt on the inside of the distributor cap.
I mainly suspect it's high-voltage, but secondarily believe it may be a blown head gasket.
Shoe. |
| | RE: backfiring 428 cj -- Ross, 01/03/2002
Short in advance plate maybe? Try unhooking your vacuum advance and plugging the line. I have seen many Fords with worn distributors and when the advance starts coming around, it shorts out.
If unplugging the advance makes it go away. Check for a worn pigtail to the points, if not, you are in the market for a rebuild
Before I did anything I would put a timing light back on and go back to 10, a good starting point |
| | | Check for sticking advance plate too... -- Bill Conley, 01/03/2002
Similar to shorting problem described by Ross. If the advance plate is stuck it'll cause all types of backfiring problems. Also check for blown diaphragm.
Just hook up a timing light and rack the throttle a couple of times. You should see the timing advance as the revs come up.
Just a thought.
-Bill |
| | another update..... -- Greg, 01/03/2002
Firstly I really appreciate all the opinions.
Here's the update..... The advance diaphram is in good shape, as for the points and condenser, they sat on the engine in storage for 10 years+, Today I bought a compression tester and am about to pull the plugs and check everything out. I'll get a new set of points tonight and change that. I'll let you know what I figure out.
In the meanwhile if anyone has any other areas that you think might be problematic please feel free to tell me.
Again Thanks
Greg
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| | | Thoughts to Ponder -- John, 01/03/2002
Your engine really isn't backfiring, as that word describes combustion coming back up through the carb. What you are describing is fuel igniting in the exhaust system. So the problem is unburnt fuel entering the hot exhaust system and igniting by the sounds of things. This can happen from a variety of causes such as burnt valves, etc, but is mostly due to one of the following....fuel probelm in the carb (my second choice) or faulty ignition (my first choice). Faulty ignition is usually plugs or wires, sometimes cap or rotor (carbon tracking on bottom side of rotor, or inside cap are a sure sign). Points systems need to be in good shape with good plugs, cap, rotor, coil, etc....but I have found by far the most common probelm is bad HV wires. Easy to check for...start the car at night with the hood open and look for arcing, blue sparks, glow, etc.
I doubt the timing would be off that much, and if a vacumn line was off or broken, the engine would either idle very high or not at all.
If the ignition checks out OK, then try a carb kit. I doubt you have mechanical damage yet, but if you don't solve the problem...well...hmmm...Good Luck! |
| | | Compression test results -- Greg, 01/03/2002
Here they are #1=180#2=180#3=176#4=180
#5=185#6=190#7=160#8=170.
Notice that #7 is lower than the rest and I've found that a pushrod is VERY slightly bent( almost unnoticeable but bent nonetheless) It's the pushrod on the right side of the runner. I haven't gone into the ignition yet but plan to tomorrow night.
What do you guys think of the comp. numbers?
Yea or nay. p.s. those comp numbers were taken on a cold engine.
Greg
Greg
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| | | | RE: Compression test results -- John, 01/03/2002
well...the compression results are all pretty good cept that 160....if you have a bent valve to go along with that pushrod, it could explain your backfiring, though I'm not sure why.
I've had very old worn out engines with low compression due to wear and others with bad cyl head gaskets and they never backfired, but a bad valve could allow fuel problems to exist that cause ignition in the exhaust system |
| | | | | RE: Compression test results -- salid, 01/05/2002
that sounds like the symptoms I had when the nylon teeth came off mycam timing gear. To check, take off the distributor cap and manually turn the engine backwards. You should get a nearly immediate movement in the distributor rotor. You may want to turn it back and forth a few time to see how many degres the crank will turn before the rotor moves. If you don't get nearly immediate movement, drain the oil and check for little nylon splinters. If you find these splinters, it is bad, you'll need to tear down the engine to clean it all out. Those splinters will clog up the oil pick-up screen, so you may also notice a lose of oil pressure if you have a high volume pump.
Those gears tend to give up in the winter when you start a cold engine.
I hope this isn't your problem, and that it is something simple like bad wires, my cj also tends to develop sudden problems when the wires get old. |
| 428 engine tag -- Rick, 01/02/2002
I have a 428 engine, and it had an aluminum tag on it with the following info:
428 68 5
8 C K 401 J
Can you tell me what these code mean? |
| | RE: 428 engine tag -- Royce Peterson, 01/02/2002
428 = Cubic inch displacement
68 = Model year, 1968
5 = Change level
8 = Year built, 1968
C = Month of production, March
K = ? don't know
401 J = 428 - 4V engine, Q code, Ford Autolite 4V carburetor.
Rick, this info is from the FOMOCO parts catalog section 60 page 3. The engine which this tag came from was a 1968 428 passenger car motor.
Royce Peterson |
| Performer RPM intake for an FE -- DennyR, 01/02/2002
Has anyone used this intake on a 69 or 70 mustang with a shaker setup? It looks like the height might be a problem. Thanks Denny |
| '59 352 to 390? -- Paul R, 01/02/2002
Is it possible to bore a 59 352 block .005 over
(standard 390 bore-4.005 from 4.000) & use a 390
crank & rods if the rods are different, & ballance
it with the 352 ballancer & flexplate? I would like to
retain the original block, heads, intake etc. in my
girlfriends '59 t bird & would just like the extra torque
this combo would produce if its possible.
Thanks to all in advance!! |
| | RE: '59 352 to 390? -- Fairlaniac, 01/02/2002
Actually a 390 bore is 4.05 not 4.005. To go 50 thousandths on a rebore, I'm not sure if it will go. Sonic checking is the best way to find out for sure. Sonic checking is about $68-$85 in my area (SE, PA) and you could probably find a 390 block for a little more. I'm not sure what is best but take note of the bore dim's above.
Doug |
| | | RE: '59 352 to 390? -- Mike McQuesten, 01/02/2002
Fairlaniac (great name btw) is right on about checking that good old '52 block. Have it sonic mapped for cylinder thickness to make sure it can handle the .050 overbore. I think that may be what you meant anyway and not that extra 0 in there.
It sounds like you want to keep your girlfriend's 'bird in stock appearing engine condition. I'd also suggest that you find a good 360/390 block and build the 390 short block you desire and then dress it in all the '59 352 parts from intake/heads on down. Save the old 352 though. Just in case you run into a correct parts boy who might be in the market for a "correct" 'bird.
Whatever, there are very few people who can spot the differences between say a '65 390 block and your '59 block. Lots of guys that read/post on this forum could. But do you really care? And if you build a good 390 from a '65 & later block, you have an engine that can fit any stock FE Ford/Merc car from '58 - '76. Okay, the heads won't work with stock unibody exhaust manifolds but let's not get into that one today. |
| | | | RE: '59 352 to 390? -- Travis Miller, 01/02/2002
The Ford "Off Highway Parts Manual" states that the maximum overbore is .060 for a 352. I have done this several times to in order to wind up with standard bore 390's. Take the parts out of a wore out 390 and put them in a .060 over 352 block. Makes a good engine that no one knows what size it is unless you tell them.
Another thing is that a '59 T-Bird 352 was the block of choice that Kip Martin used in his '64 352 SS/OA Galaxie when he set the NHRA national record back in the mid 1980's. He said that liked the '59 block because of the metal content Ford used in the T-Bird blocks. Don't know if he was pulling my leg or not but one of the hardest blocks we bored out years ago to make a 390 was a '59 T-Bird. You could tell the way the boring bar was acting that it was a tough block. |
| | | | | RE: '59 352 to 390? -- Travis Miller, 01/02/2002
Oops, meant to say ... Take the parts out of a wore out 390 and put them in a ".050" over 352 block. |
| | | | | | RE: '59 Block.. -- Mike McQuesten, 01/02/2002
That's really interesting news about the '59 block Travis. It's very interesting to me because I have the original engine that came out of my '60 Galaxie 352HP. It's a B9AE+numbers casting. It was cast in February, 1960, and installed in my Sunliner on 4/25/60. I've got a couple of '60 parts donors/future projects for somebody. They are 352-4V & 2V and they are COAE blocks. They are definitely not Hi Pers.
I've never been able to confirm why the HP blocks were B9AE. Someone told me on this forum that that was one of the first things to check for if you wanted to document that your '60 352 was a genuine original HP.
I'm not saying your information on the tough '59 block confirms anything for me but it does lead me to believe there may have been reasons the B9AE was selected to make 360 horsepower from 352.
Thanks for the great information. Good luck Paul in turning that '59 352 into a 390. |
| | | | | | | thanks guys for the info! n/m -- Paul R, 01/03/2002
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| what happened to the other fe forums? -- matt, 01/02/2002
are they gone forever? gasp! |
| 66 cyclone p/s brackets -- blake, 01/02/2002
i'm tyring to see what other fe motors(352,390,428 or ?)or vehicles would be the same for my 66 cyclone gt 390 car. i'm in need of the p/s brackets-already have the pump. any help out there? |
| | RE: 66 cyclone p/s brackets -- Gerry Proctor, 01/02/2002
The correct brackets aren't that hard to come by, Blake. They're on Ebay all the time. I can't tell you all of the possible vehicle targets, but I recently purchased a p/s pump with the bracket and this one happened to come of a Mustang Cleveland engine. While the pulley itself won't work, I was surprised to find that the pump bracket was dimensionally identicle to my factory '67 Fairlane aluminum even though it was made of pressed steel rather than cast aluminum. I would look at any of the big block intermediate unibody and at least the Cleveland Mustang platforms. You'll also need the triangular steel bracket that mounts to the water pump. Again, I see these all the time on Ebay and just a note...there is no difference between a common 390 two-barrel p/s bracket assembly or a 428 Cobra Jet assembly. |
| | | RE: 66 cyclone p/s brackets -- blake, 01/02/2002
gerry, thanks for the great tip-i just wanted to be sure. i'm not into these fe motors, i'm a 385 series guy. thanks a bunch! |
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