It have a pair of C3AE-6090-D heads I might sell if you need them.

What does the correct card "log" mean? Just to let you know... My "D" heads are on a running 12 second 67 390 GT. They have triple springs (I think) and good valves (I have no idea what size L/R valves are). They were done by EPD 25 years ago. They were stored for most of those years. I put them on to try them last year on a whim while I redo the GT heads. Of course, I haven't got around to doing the GT heads yet. They work great! Less than 2 hours run time and 25 passes or so. I dont know the date code. If you want to know it I will pull the V/C's and let you know. Do you want the bare heads or complete ones? Because they set so long you probably should change the seals and check the spring tensions, Im told. But I am not having any problems with them now. What are they worth on the open FE market? There are a few guys selling 427's locally here in Los Angeles. Do you want their number? Or you search at www.recycler.com where I saw them.

If these heads have not been tampered with you have nearly the very best that Ford ever offered. The performance is very near the vaunted High Riser and about 20% less flow capability than the Tunnel Port. DO NOT use the hollow or sodium filled valves as the are a disaster waiting to happen. It's not a matter of IF they will break and ruin your engine but, WHEN they will break and ruin your engine. I suggest using Ferrea or even Manley Stainless steel valves. The rest of the valve train can be stock Ford for use up to 8,000 rpm, just be certain you don't go crazy with lift at the valve and stay close to Ford's specs on spring pressures.

these are darn good heads and will out perform many other types of fe haeds including the aftermarket heads that so many people brag about. these heads are worth their weight in gold or damn near it. my uncle won several stock car track season championships with these heads on a 427 and really kicked some butt over a lot of guys with more cubes of the bow tie bunch. this was at a well known midwest dirt track ta boot. too bad the chevy boys didn't take it very well. they came back the following year and promply got their asses kicked again, and again ,and again.

x

When Ford made the "406 " it was meant to race. This engine was not meant for the family sedan. There was no 2 barrel carbs, heck you couldn't even get an automatic trans. All "406" were solid lifter blocks, had groved cranks, had a larger harmonic dampner, had extra metal at the mains, had large oil galleries, oil preasure relief valve at rear of block. They all had HP cast on them. Not all have cross bolt bosses, my C2AE-J doesn't, you mught find that in 63 blocks. I have never seen an honest to goodness OEM cross bolted "406" in person. I've seen were guys have had it done, but never from the factory. Rumor has it that there were only enough made to satisfy Nascar, and not many hit the streets. <That is all I got>

I have a couple digital pics of the block if anybody wants to look at them to try to help id the block. I have some good pics of the provisons for cross bolting the block. It has the re-enforced webs as well. I also have a digital pic of the outside of the block where the HP and casting number should be. There is nothing there and there is no evedience that it was ground off or anything. Does anyone know for sure if I am correct that only the 406 had provisions for cross bolting the main caps?!? Thanks.

Thanks guys for all the help. I am convienced at this point that this block is a 1962 390 block that someone bored 80 over at some point to arrive at the 4.13 bore. The lack of casting numbers and provisions for cross bolts threw me for a loop. Mike McQuesten's response seems to sum things up. Again, thank you for the help. FE guys are great!

First the 427 has a 4.23 bore with a 3.78 stroke while the 428 has a 4.23 bore and a 3.98 stroke. (The 390 and 406 has the same stroke, 3.78 as the 427 and the 428 has the same bore as the 406.)

The side oiler part identifies a block that has an added oil gallery on the driver's side of the engine. This gallery can is easily confirmed by the outside plugs where the engine was drilled to connect this gallery to each main bearing.

Also all 427 side oilers have cross bolted main caps. These caps have bolts from outside the skirt of the crank case into the main caps. You really need a picture to understand this feature.

The tall Mercury pentroof valve covers were for 65-66 models only. The round Power by Ford covers are correct for 67. I took a 410 out of a 67 Merc also and it has the round covers.

my 410 had the lightning bolt valve covers, but I got it from a truck

my 67 merc 390 has blue pbf's i'd bet the car they are original. I have 2 sets of merc pentroofs that are gonna replace them though.

Gary, forgive me here, I can't remember which U.S. model the Canadian Meteor represented? But it doesn't really matter since you say the Meteor is a '68, I'm sure it's going to be a C-6.
Now, if when you get this Meteor, you find out it has a C-4 behind that 390, PLEASE get back to us! There is a myth that some FE powered Canadian FoMoCo vehicle was produced with a C-4. I don't believe it but the myth persists. I'm not trying to stop the myth. It's kind of a fun dream that it may have been so for even a short time........nah, couldn't have been.

OK, now go back to the orig. thread and read my post about carb bodies being warpped. I don't want to retype it.

Could the intake be C7ZX?? the C7AE A heads are 66-68 352-390-410-428 heads(may or may not be smog)same as CJ head but has smaller valves--the C3AE D head is 427 low riser same as CJ other than it has smaller Combustion chambers--C6AE U heads is 66-68 390 and is the same head as you C7AE A head--C6ME A block could be standard 428 or PI but most likely not CJ also it may be a mechanical lifter only block(no lifter oil galleries),, look for the extra support in the main cap webbing it is then PI the CJ are most likely gonna be C7ME A-or C I have seen all these blocks have or not have CJ-PI webbing

A '66 Comet convertible is pretty darn rare. But with a 289 it's not considered in the muscle car class which reduces its value.
I would suggest checking out the NADA classic car site. Check out Mercury Comet, '66, etc. You'll get a rough idea.

http://www.jumpthegun.com/cyclone/cyclone.HTM

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/acmacm/acmacm/mercurycometp02us

http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclecars/mercury-comet/mercury-comet-history.html

good luck!

I did that too.

The 67 frame mounts are the same. Just get FE motor mounts (isolators). The 68 frame mounts are different for the FE (so I've heard), so be glad you have a 67.

The trans crossmember is the same too. I'm running a toploader, but I bet the C-6 uses the same crossmember as well.

You may be able to use your old driveshaft w/out shortening it, but you can get brand new aluminum driveshafts for a few hundred dollars. I bought one from a shop in Florida. It's purty. You'll need the C-6 trans yoke, 'cause it's different than the C-4.

Contrary to what's been written, the FE doesn't weigh that much more than the 289 if you use an aluminum intake. I've heard people say their's weighed something like 500 lbs. Still, I'm running 600 lb springs, and I like 'em. The front end doesn't feel too stiff. Besides, the springs were only about $75, so they were no-brainers.

Look out for interference with the sway bar. I had the standard 90 degree oil filter adapter, and the oil filter hit the sway bar. Later I found out the big block had a different sway bar. I also had a remove filter mount, so I just swapped that on. There are some oil filter mounts that should work, but the remote mount is easy too, and makes oil changes easier and cleaner.

I bought a radiator from a Mustang shop. They sent the wrong one. The lower hose was on the wrong side. It was easier to take it to a radiator shop to move to the other side, but they screwed it up. The radiator later started leaking, so I just said, "screw it", and I bought another. This time I got the right one. I'm running electric fans, but a flex fan should work fine.

The only other thing I can think of is the exhaust. If you use manifolds, you'll want either the expensive CJ manifolds or the 390GT manifolds. If you run headers, check out the FPA headers. I have Hookers. They sound and work great, but they hang too low. Also, make sure you check the matching of the exhaust ports. Shoe has posted many times about the difference in the height of the exhaust ports between the pre and post emission days.

Hope this helps.

wk.

See dave's post.

Let me share some things I learned while doing my 67GTA FE. I put in a aftermarket 3 core radiator and I had a 2 core recored to four. Had to use 68 lower brackets, 67's would n't work. Could not find the correct 18 1/4 stock fan for the application and the fan clutch listed by Hayden/Imperial for a 67 big block did not fit , no clearance.
Used a Hayden 18" fan and a fan clutch part#2711. Most of the books list a 2710 for the 67, would not fit on mine(probably would fit a 2 core.
Used Ford Power Parts headers(Tri-y's) , dropped into engine bay bolted on engine, fit great. If you get a new rebuild that hasn't been fired. I would suggest you get it test fired and run for 2-3 hours before installation. I had my engine dialed in before dropping it in, made it simple to fire up after install( one crank and varoom). We also found a couple oil leaks that would have been a bear to fix with the engine in the car.
I dropped the front A arms 1 inch per the insert in Tony Branda's catalog, used 600 springs. After installing engine, front end was in the weeds. Had to put a 1" urathane spacer in to bring it up a little. You also have to use a big block sway bar if you want to use the stock oil filler location, otherwise stock Ford F1A filter won't fit. Enough for now.