The correct fan for your Cougar 390 S code is a 7 blade 18.25" diameter unit with a clutch. They are hard to find, a NOS one is not likely. The 390 used a 24" 3 core radiator with a fiberglas shroud.

The block plates are available from Perogie at www.perogie.com

Royce Peterson

I've been using 100LL Avgas for years in my FE's. It has a lot of lead in it, about 50/50 mix with super unleaded fixes the ping in my 11 to 1 427 stroker.

Royce Peterson

Ave gas is really not made to be run in car motors.The additives in ave gas are made for altitude changes and not at sea level or there abouts.It slows the burn rate down which is not what you want in a stout car motor.Buy good fuel as it's not that much higher or put Super in with octane boost.However you choose it's the price you pay for performance......LOL

You might want to take a look at this site.
http://www.vtr.rorg/maintain/gasoline-octane.html
No guarantee and never tried any, just FYI

I don't know about CJs but it work REAL well in my 2-litre, 4 cylinder 1970 Volvo back in 1982 -- but I found out the hard way.
One day in 1982 a mechanic was taxiing my Cessna to the work shop in a 45-plus knot wind. He turned the nose into the wind and the wind picked up the plane and laid it on its back, crushing the vertical stabilizer and the wing tips. Before we could dismantle it to truck it off to the fix-it guys, we had to drain about 40 gallons of 100LL (at $2.25/gallon!) avgas from the wing tanks. I put 15 gallons in the Volvo and sold the rest for half price to one of the line boys.
The Volvo was designed for 100-plus octane in 1970 but by the early 80s the best you could get on the street was 91-92 octane. It never pinged on the 91/92-octane but there was a noticable drop in performance. After adding the avgas that Volvo performed real well for about a week until I had to fill it up on some 91 octane Shell and then it slowed down a lot. Oh, well it was fun while it lasted.

Get a good old shyter lawyer or go to small claims court. If you have sound facts you could recoupe some of you money.

How could you let a vehicle stay anywhere for that long a period. I would have gone mid evil on their ass. All the more reason to invest in some manuals and learn how to do the work yourself. Man five month, What were they doing to it? One time I had a mustang painted in it took them 60 days. I was calling them twice a week to check out the progress after the first week. Make sure you document everything.

Mike,

The 390 GT engine was available without the GT package and would still have an "S" engine code. So in that case the engine would have been the same.

There was also a "Z" code engine optional in the '66 Fairlane and Comet rated at 315 horsepower. It used a Ford model 4100 Autolite carb rated at 600 CFM. This engine appears to have the same specs as a Galaxie 390 - 4V but I suspect it used the GT style exhaust manifolds.

Royce Peterson

n/m

and I have been looking for 6 yrs, as this would make a good 66-67 Fairlane to bring to the Pure Stock Shootouts if only for the wgt savings over a GT. This isn't to say they were not produced, only that I haven't seen one. I am also looking for anyone who has seen a Z code 2dr base sedan, again a good basis for pure stock racing from a wgt savings standpoint.

Using the '69 Ford Shop manul as a reference:

The 390 and 428 CJ had the similar cams, sharinng the same lift but the 428CJ had longer duration.

The only caburetor a 390GT in '69 was was the Autolite 4300 (C9OZ-E, C9ZF-F on Automatics and C9ZF-E on sticks).

What is the list number on the Holley you have?

are 390 parts interchangable with 428 engines,and if so what is the difference besides cubes and application

one more thing.. im running a beefier carb... i believe its a 750cfm holley..
Rob

Check you air cleaner to hood clearance before changeing manifolds. As I recall there isn't much and the Performer may put the carburetor up to high.

Get the bigger CJ valves put in your heads with hardened exhaust valve seats; intake valve seats do not get as hot so hardened seats are a waste of money there.

Porting and polishing is for all out Racers. Porting can mess up airflow if not done right. Port matching is worth doing. Instead of porting, CC your heads which is something you can do yourself. Having the combustions chambers exactly the same size improves performance and makes the engine really idle smooth.

Buy the cam and kit (valve springs, retainers, etc.) from a Cam Vendor as a package and you will get better prices and a setup that works together. And Edelbrock is NOT a Cam Vendor.

A Holley carburetor of 600 CFM or so is about right. That's what was on the 390GT. A larger carburetor is OK but will hurt low end torque a bit so I wouldn't use one useless I was racing. Get the center pivot bowls if you want it to look hot. Then you can tell everyone you have a 780 or an 850 and most people won't know the difference anyway.

Since no one is giving you a simple answer on this one, here goes:

Yes, they do. Early meaning.....'58 to ?? But essentially it's true that standard FE heads were the same for 2V or 4V. One exception was the strange application of the C3AE heads in 1963. Essentially they were 406 tri ower heads with the small stanard FE valves but they had a tight combustion chamber that bumped the compression ratio up on the '63 390 to 10.5:1. The '63 390 was still running the dished piston like the '61/'62. But now I've gone completely off your original question about port sizes....even the C3AE I mention had the same port sizes.
Now when you get to 1966.....I'd let Shoe take it from there. C6AE-R & C6TE-G & C7AE-R & C8AE.......you have to start taking notes at this time.

FE non-racing heads from mid-1958 thru the end of 1965 are all basically identical. Early 1958 heads also have the same runners, but the chambers are machined.

The C6AE-R and CJ heads retained these runners, with the exception of Thermactor emissions bosses which were added (and sometimes drilled) in the roof of the exhaust runner. The C6AE-R (as well as some industrial/truck/marine heads) got an additional AR lip, but that's a different story.

Otherwise 1966 was a big-change year for the FE head, as emissions regulations forced efficient "high-velocity" runners (also known as "small runners") into most of the FE's being produced from then-on.

Shoe.

According to the shop manual the distributor rotates CCW. Robin

Yes, use the Edelbrock Performer. It's an excellent low end torque intake. That sounds like just what you want with your Merc. It's matched nicely with the E-brock Performer camshaft.
I ran this intake on a 428 CJ with the Motorsport cam, the only cam that is sold through the Ford Motorsports line for the FE. I had run a C7AE PI aluminum intake w/original 735 Holley and a 1.12 600 CFM 4100 Autolite; an Offy dual four w/500 Edelbrocks. Also ran a Edelbrock Streetmaster with the 735 Holley. Disastrous results with that one.....long story but I ran that intake exactly ten minutes and started the drain down process to get it off. So on went the Performer with a 750 manual choke Edelbrock carb. The bottem end, off the line power was tremendous. Best that '28 CJ had ever provided me.
Do you have the Holley 750 already? If so, sure, run it. Should be okay if it's in good shape. I've had a lot of mixed success with used Holleys. If you haven't purchased the carb yet, I'd recommend the Edelbrock 750 with Electric Choke for what you seem to be doing.
Just my opinions of course. Should be a fun cruise in your Mercury...if it's a Merc, still a fun cruise no matter which body you drop the big 410 into.

I'm not going to give you advice on the timing adjustment. I do it the "normal" shade tree way, with a timing light, drive it....keep trying until it feels good. If it doesn't "feel good", I drive to my buddy Steve's who is very good at timing. Then go to the strip and see how it works....with the timing light in the tool box too.
But about that stumble.....I'm assuming from what you've said that it's an Edelbrock 750? But wait, "accelerator pump changes"....you must mean you have a Holley 750, right? I was just going to tell about how I eliminated a similar stumble while running a 750 Edelbrock following their guidelines, adjusting metering rods and step up springs. No stinkin' accelerator pump problems. No runs, no drips, just a couple of minutes replacing metering rods/step up springs and off for a test. No more stumble, just tires smokin'!

You should first get rid of the stumble, usually done by adding more initial advance. Once you have the tip in respose problem cured then you use the adjustable vacuum advance to limit the total advance number. I would try something like 14 degrees initial (hose disconnected and plugged) and try to have full advance with everything connected by 2800 of 40 - 42 degrees. If it pings on a 3000 RPM punch , you might have to back it down again using the adjustable vacuum unit to get rid of the preignition. It is all dependent upon cylinder pressure versus octane versus vehicle weight versus gearing. This many variables means that you have to set it while driving it and the actual numbers are meaningless, the end result is all that mattters.

Good Luck,

Royce Peterson