Carb selection can be an emotion filled opinion fest for sure. So here's mine with as little emotion as possible. The facts...I've had problems over the years with Holleys indeed. Especially with the GT 600 CFM of '66-'68. Leaking floats, needle/seat probs, throttle shafts, etc. But I've had good ones too. I had an excellent original 735 on a CJ. It worked well always. Oh....yes 600 CFM is plenty on a standard/mild 390GT and I believe vacuum secondaries are best for all around performance. Now as for Edelbrocks...I love 'em! I've run three of them. I wouldn't say they're right-outta-the-box perfect. I did have to read the little booklet that came in the first 750 I bought(for that same 428CJ) and then buy their little tuning kit from Jegs. Called Edelbrock tech line about a bog/stumble I was having off the line. The tech guy was extremely friendly and helpful. He even hinted to me about the up coming FE Performer RPM. Anyway, his recommendations on step up spring and metering rod selection did the trick the first time. Oh, and I do remember reducing primary jet size. All of these changes were made with the carb on the intake with absolutely no gasoline mess flowing all over. My ET/MPH were the same as the 735 Holley. Of course, I had good luck with a jetted up '62 4100 600CFM Autolite too. So what do you like..blonds, red heads or brunettes? You got a try a few before you know right?

You *will* get all kinds of opinions on carb selection. Everyone has their favorite.

I like Holleys. They just look right, and they work fine. They're pretty simple, but I guess the others are okay too if you know how to work 'em.

You'll probably get better results with the vac secondary, but the double pumper is more fun. There's something about being able to stomp on it and hear the "vooooom".

600cfm is probably enough, but I'd go with something more like 700-750cfm. If I could choose any carb, I'd pick the 735 CJ carb (dual line, vac secondary, annular discharge boosters). Scratch that, I'd choose the Holley Pro? Series. You know, the ones w/out the choke housing. Hell, I can't even settle on one opinion.

Does it look like two 4 legged spiders?

That intake is the original equipment unit for all 1967 Shelby GT500's. It was also available over the counter. Nice intake!

Royce Peterson

I have a C7ZX-7425-A intake on the shelf and it's a confirmed 1967 Shelby GT500, 428 dual four manifold. The guy I got it from knew exactly from where it came, and it was the real thing.

so that a67 2==4s is it plain no carbs
i just got one for 275.oo it was also a c7zx
looked new at swap meet and thats the going
price and he said it was shelby

C0AE 6A636-A

You should be able to get one at any Ford dealer. About $1.00.


Royce Peterson

Well I'm not sure of a way to tell what it came out of and no real reason to know other than for the story.
But on the Passanger side of the block by the shock towers there are some numbers and those numbers will tell you what the block is. Then go to the libray or book story and get an interchange manual for 59-73 and then it'll tell you what the block is.

try auto krafters at autokrafters.com. they carry a large number of parts for the fairlanes.

Greg,
I run mine to 6200. It's a super strong cast crank, like all FE cast cranks. I know people who spin them to 9000 but they have more money than I do. Usually something else will break long before an FE cast iron crank.

You should be careful about using good engine assembly techniques and parts throughout the entire motor. Plenty of valve to piston clearance, good quality forged pistons, the lightest, strongest rods you can afford with the best rod bolts (ARP). Use high quality one piece valves, valve springs that match your intended cam, etc. Screw up on any one detail and it wipes out the rest.

The IU crank should be the least of your worries. Just have it magged and balance everything before final assembly.

Royce Peterson
68 Cougar 427 GTE (two of them)
68 1/2 Cougar 428 CJ Ram Air

have the block sonic checked and mag checked. if it checks out ok then use it.

Also remember that a 330 (or a 352) bored .060 over is the same as a .010 over 390. Just in case you didn't know. A .050 over 330 would be a standard 390.

as ong as you are talking the same compression ratio, a flat top piston engine(assuming everything else is the same also) will make better and more consistant power though out the rpm range. the reason for this is flame propogation is much more consistant. the difference is small but it can be measured. if you have a choice use the flattop pistons. other wise try to avoid dishes or domes that are too large.

I'd take the C8AE-H (not C8AE-8) heads and install hardened exhaust seats in them. The D2 and C7 heads are an improper combo, so I'd avoid them. If one C8 head is bad, feel free to drop the D2 head in it's place, as these heads are similat.

I'd look closer at the "105" block, as it may have some nice reinforcements, though this is not necessarily a fact. It is NOT an FT block (found on 600-800 series trucks), but it there is a slight chance it has some or all of the FT block reinforcements - don't be too cocky, as I've got a 105 block that is as wimpy as you'll find any FE block to be.

I suspect he D4 intake has an extra EGR hole on the carb surface of the intake. Also, you didn't mntion how many barrels you've got in the two intakes, so I'll avoid details. Go with the greater number of barrels, and I'd also likely lean toward using the manifold with the "T" on the intake, not the "S". I may be wrong, but I still think of the "S" intake as the smoothest FE manifold ever made, but the "T" intake likely offeres better torque.

JMO,
Shoe.

It is sort of a redline max that dictates safety for the engine, not HP. I built mine conservatively...Crane cams did a computer profile and said 480 HP (optomistic I think...more like 425 HP), but the next cam up was capable of 540 HP according to Crane...but at what rpm? You are definately safe under 5500 rpm....I hear the rods are good to 6500 rpm without shotpeening and polishing, but it must be at a limit, so I don't do it. Build a high torque low HP, low revver for the street, and you'll be safe...and Happy!. The cam dictates this. Compression ratio doesn't increase HP dramatically, but it allows you to use a cam that will. Look for a cam with a broad torque curve down low for the street and forget HP figures, For drag racing...go with the high rpm, high HP cam and be prepared for heartbreak from time to time. Sorry I can't qualify this more.