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 |  1968 ford mustang rear end -- Rob, 05/31/2006
Was wondering if there is an other rearend besides the 9" that will bolt up to a 68 ford mustang. was most interested in the 8.8 rear end.thanks |
|  | Bolt up? Like in just slap it in? No. -- Gerry Proctor, 06/01/2006
Fabrication, at least in the spring perch, will be required. Once you depart from the 8" and 9" the factory installed in the Fairlane/Mustang chassis, you will have to make it fit. But it's not uncharted territory. Suggest you post on the main forum to get the relative experience of those who have done non-standard swaps. |
| | | RE: Bolt up? Like in just slap it in? No. -- walt, 06/01/2006
why would you want to go to a gear that you have to change ratio's or all repairs under the car with a dial indicator,and bearing puller,press and lots of shims,when you can just swap the third member,and a gasket,and how your other 3rd member carrier,repaired or changed,while you still can cruise around,also why do a lot of the GM,dodge cars usingthat ford nine inch? |
| | |  | RE: Bolt up? Like in just slap it in? No. -- Rob, 06/04/2006
bolt up |
 | Info on Mellings Oil Pumps -- HPINXS, 05/31/2006
Here some technical information on the pumps:
M57 54psi 2.25 gpm
M57HP 120 psi 2.25 gpm
M57B 72psi 2.25 gpm
M57HV 75 psi 2.75 gpm
Front pickups:
57-AS & 57-S2 are 0.540 inches ID. |
| 1968 mustang -- bubba, 05/31/2006
I just bought a 1968 ford mustang and I would like to know how you tell if it is a GT sedan or just a regular sedan. I have the serial #8T01C188226 |
|  | Just a regular sedan -- Painter Wayne, 05/31/2006
While the VIN can't tell you if it's a GT, it can rule out the possibility. According to the engine code (C), it's a 2V 289, and the GT option was not available with that engine in '68. |
| 428 split block -- Dave Bache, 05/31/2006
Hi guys,
I have a 428 in my Cobra that has developed a horizontal split in the water jacket of the block just above the drain plug and either side of the core plug of the rear cylinder. This seems to be not an uncommon fault, I have a rebuild manual that has a photo with a very similar split. Does anybody know what the cause of this is .?? (block never frozen, Johannesburg doesn't get that cold!)
Has anybody successfully repaired one like this? or is there a chance there is more damage inside? I have a picture if anybody is really interested.
kind regards
Dave |
| | my 390 D3TE block developed a similar crack -- Barry B, 05/31/2006
on the passenger side between the core plugs and it don't freeze here in So.Cal. Have heard the blocks from the MCC are more prone to this type of cracking. Been running it this way for ten years now, just add a little coolant every now and then. Have seen no water in the oil and vice-versa. Come rebuild time, I'll be looking for another block. |
| | | RE: my 390 D3TE block developed a similar crack -- dave bache, 05/31/2006
Hi Barry, many thanks for this.Gives me a bit of a warm feeling and adds to my plan of just brazing it and hoping for the best. You mentioned MCC, I am not familiar with this, can you explain further.
kind regards
Dave |
| | | | Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- Gerry Proctor, 05/31/2006
And, yes, brazing is a very suitable repair for cracks in the outer jacket. Make sure you include a solution to stop the crack from growing, like drilling holes at the crack ends. |
| | | | | RE: Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- Dave Bache, 06/01/2006
Hi Guys,
Many,many thanks for your advice. You have lifted my depression! FE blocks in South Africa are an extremely rare commodity.
kind regards
Dave |
| | | | | RE: Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- HPINXS, 06/01/2006
I bought a 428 engine that has I have a crack in the water jacket in the lifter valley. It is a "real 428" block. I'm guessing it happened when it froze. The block is not just cracked one side is lifted up a little.
I don't want to toss it if I can fix it. Would drilling the ends of the crack/break and brazing be the way to fix it?
I know a good welder that has high nickel rod that said he would try to fix it using the nickel rod, but I'm not sure that is really necessary. I think a brass patch would be just fine. I'm afraid of heating the block for nickel welding to much and having more cracks apear
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| | | | | | Welding a brazing both take talent. -- Gerry Proctor, 06/01/2006
Brazing has fewer hazards but the "fusion" is by capillary action. If the area being brazed isn't an area under stress, then it's almost always going to be the preferred method.
Welding cast iron has many pitfalls and should be left to a welder genuinely certified to weld cast iron. |
| | | | | | | RE: Welding a brazing both take talent. -- walt, 06/01/2006
there was a post from fords tsbs about casting problems and how to repair them,and i did mentoin about probs at the mmc earlier,the crack in the lifter valley,can be brazed,dependinding how close you are to the lifter bores,my machinist,welder told me could warp the bores,if you have it welded/brazed,put some old lifters in the bore as heat sinks,and when done measure the bores for roundness,i also had a friend that spun # 3 main,tore up the thrust face,block,and cap, the old school welder machinist,passed now,brazed the block and cap,machined them,to fit the thrust bearings,line bored it,still ok 35 years later(427 block)and according to the ford service books ,and the thechnical bulletins,they just used epoxy to correct non stress area casting flaws |
| | | | | | | | Walt, can you elaborate on problems at the mcc? -- Barry B, 06/02/2006
I must have missed that one. Thanks! |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Walt, can you elaborate on problems at the mcc? -- walt, 06/02/2006
i had friends that worked at the mcc,the drug prob was realybad,that even security,or maintenance would not go into service areas whithout the police escorts,it was a big king pin then,and ford closed it down,made it a probe plant,now mazda/mustang plant
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| | | | | | | RE: Welding a brazing both take talent. -- HPINXS, 06/02/2006
My welder friend is certified to weld stainless, carbon, bimetal stainless/carbon, cast iron, and aluminum from 0.0625 up.
To do the braze job I would probably vat the block and then electro-clean it (drop the block in a plastic barrel, put some epson salts in, connect on side of a battery and battery charger to the engine and the other side to a piece of clean steel - - the current will clean the water deposits and rust from the block leaving just bare metal).
I had heard something about Ford's approved method was to use epoxy to fix the lower part of the block the "deep skirt section" if it was broken.
The brake isn't really close to the lifter galleries. It almost centered between the deck and the lifters. It's about 3 inchs long vertically and has spread about 1/16 with a mismatch of about 1/16 to 3/16. Can't really see behind the crack from the deck side.
Maybe I should just pore the block with hard fill (hydraulic cement) and forget the water on that side?
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| | | | | | | | RE: Welding a brazing both take talent. -- walt, 06/02/2006
i think that you would have a heating prob,or a warp,that battery trick,thats a new one for me,got to try it |
| | | | | | RE: Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- walt, 06/01/2006
i forgot to say i got a 428 ,with the same crack and displacement of metal,should i fix it or use my 501 block,thats the costly question,i got it for a fewbucks,knowing about that it couldn't hold water,also the head was cracked on the same side,less than 200 bucks the crank ,rods were worth it |
| | | | | | | RE: Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- Dick Holabaugh, 06/09/2006
I have a 427 (non-sideoiler)marine block with cracks 3to4 ins. long u-shaped above the left and right liftergallies from freezing. Is it worth repairing and in what manner? |
| | | | | | | | RE: Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- walt, 06/10/2006
have it checked for crcks in the outer water jacket,around the core plug area,normaly if you pushed a freeze plug the side wall also cracked,a good shop can test it for you at a reasonable cost |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Michigan Casting Center (MCC) -- walt, 06/10/2006
oops forgot to ssay if the block is scrap,save the cross bolts and bearing caps and spacers,then you can find a428 block and cross bolt it,them cross bolt are a high priced items,,i found i my times of hipo racing,the 2 bolt big block mains worked just fine in street ,racing and marine use |
| 427 Valves in 428 Heads/Blocks? -- HPINXS, 05/30/2006
Can I use 427 valves 2.19/1.723 in 428 head with 4.13 bore? What about 4.13 +0.6 over; 4.19 in bore? |
| | RE: 427 Valves in 428 Heads/Blocks? -- Royce P, 05/30/2006
You can use them but the extra valve size will not necessarily help performance. Many FE head porters claim that CFM actually is the same or a little less when going larger than about 2.12 in a 4.19" bore.
Be sure to check valve to piston clearance, the valve reliefs are not positioned properly in many brands of aftermarket FE pistons.
Royce |
| Edelbrock heads -- THOMAS, 05/30/2006
Can fe edelbrock 390-428 heads 60069 be machined to 2. 19 valves. |
| | Have you tried looking here? -- Royce P, 05/30/2006
http://www.edelbrock.com/
The answer is yes. Many other questions about these heads are answered as well.
Royce |
| front disk brake converison -- harold la croix, 05/29/2006
i would like to change my front brakes to disk brakes.right now it is non power drum.i see they offer non and power set ups.will non power stop as good as power with disk?and also is there a car i can fine and get these parts from or should i just buy new. |
| 2X4 Vacuum Secondary Adjustment -- John, 05/28/2006
Yes, you may laugh or be scornful, or whatever, but until recently I never realized the vacuum secondaries wern't opening on my 428. I just finished doing a shift from 2 to 3rd (going up a steep grade), and was getting into the throttle a bit more than normal, when they did open. Felt like I was hit in the back with a sledgehammer. Very impressive...... very noisy.... very scarey...LOL. So I was thinking I ought to change the diaphram springs to have the secondaries open earlier.....so I can anticipate it better and have it happen during a more controllable power output. The car weighs only 2550 lbs, so I would think this change would be appropriate. I have two Holley spring kits. There are a variety of differnt coloured springs in them....colours indicating light to hard spring rate. Does anybody have any thoughts on this matter?
Also, is it best to work through springs from stock to light, or start at the lightest spring, and work back up? I was going to go straight to the lightest spring, and if they open too early and the engine bogs, then work up. |
| | RE: 2X4 Vacuum Secondary Adjustment -- Gerry Proctor, 05/30/2006
I've always had the shortest path to success by starting with the lightest spring and working my way up if need be. It's very difficult to get satisfactory or full vacuum secondary on a Holley with a light car and decent rear gear.
Proper secondary operation should not be very obvious. A bog on the secondary would mean they're coming in too quick but, again, that's not much of an issue with a light car and steep gear. The transition into the secondary should be smooth and linear. You shouldn't be able to feel it. Kind of hard to explain perfectly.
A 2550 lb. car? I'd put the thing on some scales, or more accurate scales. A Morgan comes in near that weight. |
| | | RE: 2X4 Vacuum Secondary Adjustment -- John, 05/30/2006
Thanks Gerry. I will do just that. I guess I always thought the secondaries worked before as it is supposed to be smooth and there was always way more power than I needed. It was after they unexpectedly opened that I realized this wasn't the case. No bog, or delay...just like someone hit me from behind. I use this engine in a kit car I built, an ERA Cobra replica. They state the weight at 2550....now take away over 700 lbs for the engine...it's like a go-kart for the road....LOL. |
| | | | RE: 2X4 Vacuum Secondary Adjustment -- walt, 05/30/2006
gerry is right,but a check of secondaries on any holley 4v,and caution advised,and ond duals with vacuum secondaries,plug off the balance tubes,rev the motor,then choke the air horn with your hand,keep the throttle open,the secondaries should start opening quickly,tests the diafram,vacuum,andwill not give you the spring rate,dirty quick check trick though,and it works,stay clear of the fan,had one explode and come back at me |
| | | | | TY guys, and a note for one-handed Walt -- John, 05/31/2006
Thanks guys. Think I'll experiment this weekend if it doesn't rain. Hey Walt.....put your hand over the primary part of the intake horn while you rev the engine? I suppose the suction won't be that great, but I'd like to see someone else do it first.....LOL. Seriously though, sounds like a good check, although why plug off the balance tube?...so you can check one carb at a time?? Not worried about the fan.....tis electric, but good advice none the less. |
| | | | | | RE: TY guys, and a note for one-handed Walt -- walt, 06/03/2006
the vacuumm could possibly put a blood blisters,or red spot on your hand,any how choke itwith the choke plate or hand,do not block the vent tube,your forcing the FAKE load thru the signal port in the main body,between the primary to the secondary,and give a slight thought if if its coming in too slow,check ball stuck,ruptured diagfram,spring rate too heavytoo soon ball missing(some appications)light spring pressure,,and you can run the duals,one carb at a time |
| What's it worth? -- Big Dave, 05/28/2006
I have plethora of old truck parts and I'm trying to find their value.
Note to Mr F: I already have someone who is interested in purchasing the parts, so I am not trying to sell them here, I just want their estimated value.
If any one could help, that would be great.
Here’s a complete list of all the parts :
1971 F100 Custom LWB complete body (minus steering column)
1969 F100 Ranger LWB with power steering and power brakes (all body parts are there, but not all are useable); also has factory auxiliary gas tank, including all linkage and necessary parts
All glass for one truck, including a limo tinted back glass (the windshield has a crack in it, though)
2 hoods
2 extra quarter panels
’71 grille
’69 grille (has Ranger emblem)
Rims form ’95 F150
A two-piece driveshaft (for the long bed)
Two radiator supports
Both trucks have all four tires, but I don’t think any are good
I have all engine parts to build a complete 360 FE, with the exception of valve covers
Engine Parts Included:
360/390 block, bored .030 over. Still has crosshatching. Will probably pass sonic test to bore to a 428 std bore.
360 crankshaft
Used set of .030 over 360 pistons with long FE rods
Brand new set of .060 over Speed-Pro forged aluminum performance pistons and long FE rods. These pistons will give you an 8.58-8.82 compression ratio with the Ford performance cylinder heads included, or a 9.07 compression ratio with the factory heads, also included.
One pair of C1AE performance cylinder heads. These heads are ready to bolt on, they are complete and will handle a cam with up to .600 lift. Although these heads will give you a lower compression, they flow better and will allow you to run on regular unleaded pump gas.
One pair of D2TE-AA heads. These are the heads I pulled off the motor, and they are dirty and need reworking. These are standard heads, and should you decide to keep them, most cylinder head shops will just exchange them for rebuilt ones. The higher compression ratio requires premium pump gas.
One factory cast iron 4bbl intake manifold. Very heavy, but still included.
One Weiand Stealth 4bbl aluminum intake manifold. It’s used but reconditioned. It’s been cleaned, repainted, has had new brass fittings installed. It also has a ceramic undercoating to help insulate heat. Also on it is a 2 inch aluminum carb spacer.
One 600 CFM 4bbl carb, needs cleaning. It also comes with a 1 inch aluminum carb spacer.
One complete set of rocker arms and drip rails.
I have the camshaft, lifters and pushrods, but they are used. If you plan to use the cam included here, you will need new lifters and pushrods.
One Ford factory points distributor. I have the cap, rotor, and wires, but those I recommend replacing.
One C6 three speed automatic transmission. Rebuilt, and comes with torque converter. The ’69 F100 has all the linkage for it, including the auto steering column.
Two three speed manual transmissions. One has a fresh rebuild on it, but has a busted tailshaft housing (not the shaft, just the housing), and the other is not rebuilt, but I just got it for the tailshaft housing.
I'm not really interested in parting it out, that's a last resort. But what what would the value be for the whole shebang?
Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post. |
| | anybody...? nm -- Big Dave, 05/30/2006
nm |
| none -- walt, 05/27/2006
memorial day,to all my friends that had thier 442's gto's amx's chevelles,fairlanes camaroes ,and them mustangs,that never came home to grab them gears again, salute.i lost a lot of my friends and street racers during them 1960's peroid,and salute to all before and after me that served,as i did,and proud of it, |
| | Hey Walt,....Thanks! (n/m) -- Painter Wayne, 05/28/2006
nm |
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