c6=46 19/32 4sd -50inchs

had the same problem, on 67 GTA, with rpm intake. i did not use the cork ends, had totake off intake and reseal he ends, they have a rubberized silicone that adheres much better, i just lasi a bigger bead on the rail, and then come up the intake surface a ways, stay away from the oil return holes. redid mine about 3 weeks ago, no drips what so ever now. on most rebuilds i put about 1/4 inch bead on the end rails, found on the FE's have to lay 2 1/4 in beads on top of each other you may have extra that oozzes out but that can be cut in a few days with a sharp razor knife, one case in engine building where more is actually better..


glenn z

i glue the end gaskets down and let them set up over night i use permatex super blue on the corners and a bead over the gaskets and around the water pasages, with good resoults, be carful on torking down the intake you can crack them eazy even the cast iron ones at the void betwein the ports........

If it's a ladder bar that completely does away with the previous suspension then they may be fine as far as design but poor in exectution. But what you normally run into is a ladder bar set up with the existing components. Without a housing floater it usually puts the rear suspension movement in a bind due to conflicting travel archs.

A properly set up ladder bar will resemble a track locator that is used on the NASCAR racers (actually, it's just an old Chevy pickup truck suspension) if it runs without the factory suspension.

It's also possible that whoever installed the ladder bar did a poor job of it.

C7ME only indicates it's a non-sideoiler FE cast from 1967-72, nothing else. The date code gives you the date, as described.

It may be a PI/CJ casting, or an FT casting (possibly a 330MD/330HD FT. as they have 332/352/360/390/410 type cylinder jackets. Alternately, it may be a 361FT/391FT truck block, as these generally have the 428-type of cylinder jacket.

Note that all 360/390 FE and 361/391 FT blocks got the reinforced main webbing from about 1973-on. This does NOT suggest all 360/390 FE blocks have the 361/391/428 type cylinder jackets, as they don't. It only means Ford standardized on the reinforced main webbing around 1973. This does not apply to your casting. note that some FTs occasionally came with standard cylinder 360/390/410 blocks, so caution is always advised.

If you don't have a bored out 330FT block, then you've very likely got a block capable of handling a 428 bore. An FE "drill bit test" will verify.

Shoe.

My guess is that since FE's weren't put in those chassis you'll have trouble with:

1 Engine/Tranny mounts, like you've said.
2 Headers/Exhaust. No headers for that application, although some "might" fit (who knows).
3 Driveshaft fitment.
4 Radiator hose selection.
5 Keeping the Black Widow spiders away from under the car while each problem is being resolved. :)

Wayne K.

How safe is it to use 3" x 3" square steel "tube" for motor mounts? I'll use grade 5 & 8 bolts, do I need to have a rubber spacer?, can I use just iron to steel. How much additional vibration and stress will be put on block? Thanks

is there a switch on the block? normally, if there is a loss of fluid in one half of system(front or rear) it will push the shaft, and trip th brake light...

i,v taken them off and used the newer valve covers with the pvc holes in them and plumed the pvc in just like you stated worked just fine, the old tube is just a road draft wen going down the road it creates a vackume that drawes the crank case vapers out, i plug them with a frease plug and also the fill tube with a frease plug, and use newer valve covers.

if i was building what u r building i would use ross pistons for a 410 setup- by using a 1u crank or get the crank from scat- then i would go roller either comp or crower / as far as which exact part number i need to look at some more numbers and get back to u/ r u using an automatic what gears will u be using ?

Well, a max effort 390 isn't necessarily "max effort" with only 10:1 compression, but Ross makes a nice relatively lightweight set (P/N 99601). These ought to provide 10:1 with your heads. Here's the web site:
http://www.rosspistons.com/items.php?Custom=N&ItemTypeID=33

For "real" max effort you could round up a set of domed pistons (racing gas). I sold a set of no longer produced TRW L2292F 12:1 pistons less than a year ago. I'm sure you can still find them around if you look hard and long enough. Of course Ross or other piston makers could probably whip up a set of 12:1's also.

As a side note, I just happen to have a "how-to" video on building a low 12 second 390 Mustang. The title is: "Mustang, Mild to Wild". It's an older video and may not be available anymore... It's more of a sales pitch for selected parts than anything, but is interesting and does show a few actual 12 second runs of the car.

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the 12.1 trw domed pistones in a 390 are great for all out racing i use a set it my 390 powerd 1969 390 powerd cyclone i,v pulled low 12,s 4speed 4,56 gears solid lifters cam ,i feal conpresson =horse power for the 390.i never got in the 12,s untill i ran the 12.1 pistones..

...it's already sick...a Flaming River & 200' of 2nd gear sick...HELP ME!.........I'd really like to hear from someone who actually has used a Shelby block.

i,d check the push rods first a slight bent one will tick some times. depends on wich way it,s pointing, if thay are ok a bad lifter that bleads off to quick may be the problim,,,,,

I once rebuilt a hyd lifter 289.....was cheap and didn't want to replace the cam or lifters, so I dismantled the lifters and cleaned them up. I used 4 different chemicals to soak and then scrub the lifter parts. I never had a lifter noise before, but they sure were built up with "varnish" after 150K org miles. I suspect you simply have a sticking lifter. Nail down which cylinder it is, remove the intake and take the lifters apart and seriously clean them. Will cost you only elbow grease, a few gaskets and silicone. If that doesn't fix it, you may be looking at new lifters....so a better cam might be wise at the same time...hmmm...did I say "wise"?...maybe I meant "fun".