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 |  motor replacement -- Tom, 07/29/2004
Could someone help a new comer? I recently bought a 1965 mustang with a stock 6 cyl (200hp). Mechanic buddy is offering me a 302 v8 out of a 1989 lincoln. Other than changing exaust and motor mounts, will this motor actually fit? I know a 289 was optional, but I dont know if the 302 is physically bigger and will fit. Thanks people. Tom |
|  | RE: motor replacement -- Robert, 07/29/2004
Tom.
This is the FE forum, you want a small block forum, but:
Take a look at: http://members.cox.net/daugherty_pgdr_leaders/FAQ/I6-V8-Swap.htm
That will at least give you an idea of what you are up against.
a 302 and a 289 are the same external dimensions. Depending on what kind of lincoln it may be a 5.0HO or other version.
HTH |
| | | RE: motor replacement -- Tom, 07/29/2004
Thanks for the help HTH |
| | | | RE: motor replacement -- John, 07/31/2004
I don't know much about this, but seems to me the 6 cyl mustang had 4 bolt wheels, the 8 cyl had 5. Also, the front springs are to soft for the V-8, so you need to change them too. |
| | | | | And other stuff would . . . -- Orin, 07/31/2004
. . . include changing the rear end, drive shaft, and transmission, if it is a 3-speed manual. I think the rear leafs need to be beefed up also.
The best option, really, is if you want a V8, buy a V8. It's cheaper and quicker in the long run. |
| | | | |  | RE: And other stuff would . . . -- Joe, 08/01/2004
I believe a common problem that happens is some of the late model belt driven water pumps spin in the opposite direction leading to overheating. I read a article in mustang monthy where someone tried everything possible to cure the problem with no luck. All they had to do is put the correct pump on. I found that interesting. Go for it and good luck! |
 | oil pooling up on pass intake -- dennie, 07/28/2004
ok it's a 67 h code 2 barrell very original, oil pools up and boils above #2 plug. doesn't appear to come from pcv almost looks to come from intake/head seal. so question can oil leak from that area? i'm swapping intakes soon anyhow and plan to use the victor reyes gaskets i've seen recommended here. |
| | RE: oil pooling up on pass intake -- raycfe, 07/28/2004
could be leaking from a intake mounting bolt.. |
| Correct 68 Mustang GT 390 exhaust manifold? -- Kim, 07/28/2004
I am pretty sure I have the correct GT heads, but the exhaust manifolds only use 8 bolts. The head has 12 or 14 bolt holes (forgot). Anyway the top bolt holes in the heads are being used at all. Can that ne right?
How do I verify I have the correct exhaust manifold?
Being in this general area, does someone have a link or info handy describing how to best (temporarily) do away with the emissions control system?
Thanks in advance! |
| | | RE: Correct 68 Mustang GT 390 exhaust manifold? -- Kim, 07/28/2004
Great, that helps. It looks like I have the right manifold... Odd they would only use 8 bolts when there are 14 available. Thanks. |
| Medium Riser Intake. -- Ash, 07/28/2004
Hello all, i'm new to this forum and thought i'd tap into the wealth of information that you guy's have. My name is ash and I am from Melbourne, Australia. On the weekend I purchased a 2x4 Medium Riser intake. It is in very good condition and I paid $1,500 Australian for it, about $1,050 US. It has both carbs, fuel log, linkages and oval air cleaner. (fair price?) My question is about the carbs, how do I find out if they are genuine Ford one's and how much cfm they are? There are some numbers on the fuel bowls and vacuum secondry diaphragm covers, they are as follows:
Primary fuel bowls:8483D
Secondary fuel bowls:8484D
Front carb diaphragm cover:F1, 1012D, 1303
Rear carb diaphragm cover:F2, 1012D, 1303
Also the part number of the intake is:
C7ZX-9425-A
Is this a Medium Riser intake? as that is what the bloke sold it to me as.
I thank you for your time and if I have any more FE related questions I hope you will let me rack your brains. |
| | That's a 1967 Shelby GT500 intake -- Royce P, 07/28/2004
It was originally fitted to a 428 Shelby engine. These are sometimes erroneously referred to as 428 Police engines but they really are a breed unto themselves. The engine used C7AE-A or C6AE-R heads which are low performance 390GT type heads.
The intake though is identical to the Medium Riser design used in the 1967 Fairlane 427 except for the casting number and some other minor details.
The carb part numbers you posted are generic. Are there any numbers on the carb choke air horns or have the air horns been cut off?
Royce |
| | | RE: That's a 1967 Shelby GT500 intake -- Ash, 07/28/2004
Thank's for the info Royce. Are you the same Royce from from the network 54 fe forum?
I went back out to the shed and had a look at the air horns and the numbers that are stamped on them both are as follow's:
LIST-1850-2
1303
Kind of ironic it is off a 428 as that is what it is going back onto. |
| | | | RE: That's a 1967 Shelby GT500 intake -- Robert, 07/28/2004
1850 is the list number for a "universal" 600 cfm vac second carb.
|
| | | | | Robert is correct.... -- Royce P, 07/28/2004
Since the intake is probably worth $1500 - $1700 (US) I would say Ash did not get screwed on the deal.
Royce |
| | | | | | RE: Robert is correct.... -- Ash, 07/29/2004
Thank you very much for your help guys, yoiu've been very helpful. I also posted the question on the network 54 forum because I didn't want to offend anybody here because I don't have a Mustang, the enginr is going into a Galaxie. |
| | | | | | | RE: I don't think you offend anyoneW/O a Mustang -- Robert, 07/29/2004
There are quite a few Galaxie folks here, as well as us F series guys. No one has tried to run me off, at least not yet. |
| Final Success with the FE -- John, 07/27/2004
OK, after quite a few years of minor (and a few major) troubles, I am finally happy with my 428. So I thought I'd share a few thoughts on it. First of all, I'd say the 0.0025" highly recommended bearing clearances are too much. You just can't get good idle pressure when hot with this much clearance. A high volume pump is the way to go, but not a high pressure (got 150 psi with one of those...ridiculous). Mobil 1 15W50 works great, but use mineral oil till after break-in. After dismantling several "good" oil pumps, I found the solution. I replaced the press-in plug in the oil pressure relief spring hole with a fine thread unit, and adjusted max oil pressure on the workbench for 85 psi. Better than keep on removing and re-installing the pan, especially with a windage tray and two gaskets. Alternatively, the Melling pump sold under the Blue Wolverine label seemed to be set appropriately.....heaven knows why.....could be a unique situation. I use a solid lifter cam and did all the oiling mods. I did find that my engine always smoked UNTIL I used a set of "single oiling hole" rocker shafts (Harland-Sharpe). Problem gone. I used all Crane valve gear from cam to lifters to pushrods to adj rockers to springs and retainers and caps. Works great. I use one of those much maligned Offenhauser single plane aluminum 2X4 intakes, and I have more power than I can ever use. Mallory Distributors are defective in the sloppiness of the fit of the gear to the shaft. It can be cured, but best stick with a Ford unit. FPP makes great stuff and I like their rocker supports, but terrible to deal with. Oil seeping out around the distributor hole can be resolved by making a paper gasket that fits around the dist groove, and therebye shims the "semi-square" o-ring to a better fit. Always use a heavy-duty aftermarket oil pump drive. Pick a cam to match your Compression ratio. I used FPP 9.5:1 pistons and a Crane cam to match. Awesome performance. Having the crank balanced, may or may not affect performance at high RPM, but it sure does give a nice idle, even with a performance cam. If you want to use rubber valve cover gaskets, use gasket shellac.....the tarry stuff the colour of molasses. Even then, once the engine heats up, you may have leaks. These engines don't drain oil from the heads well, and can suck the sump dry when the oil is cold and thick. I went to an Aviad 9 qt pan and the problem went away. OK, now there is a whole bunch of thoughts, facts and opinions....obviously in no rational order.....LOL. Any questions, and I'd be glad to answer them. |
| | RE: Final Success with the FE -- Chad, 07/28/2004
Just curious. What heads are you running and any ideas on HP and torque? I am planning on putting together my CJ with a soild lifter cam as well and was wondering your specs on that as well. Thanks for any info. |
| | | specs -- John, 07/28/2004
For heads, I am using regular low-roser 390/428 heads. Only thing special is I had thick-walled bronze valve guides isntalled and hardened valve seats. As for the cam, it is a Crane 344361 and the specs are at:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=344361&lvl=2&prt=5
Also used Crane parts as follows:
Lifters - 99256-16
Springs - 998393-16
Pushrods - 34642-16
Rocker Arms - 34772-16
Valve Spring Retainers - 99954-16
Valve Spring Locks - 99098-1
I was unsure of which of two cams I wanted, so called the Crane Tech Line. They did a computer profile on my engine and came up with 480 est HP. They suggested their next cam up, which would have put out 540 est HP. They admitted a bad idle with it, so I opted for the 480 HP unit. Now I doubt I get that. A tad optomistic, plus it assumes an engine perfectly tuned, which is difficult to achieve. I suspect about 425 HP as basically I reproduced a 428 PI engine. Hope all this helps. |
| | | | RE: specs -- Chad, 07/28/2004
Excellent information John, I appreciate it. |
| | Taking it a little further. -- Chad, 07/28/2004
Anybody got a rough idea on HP and Torque increase using John's exact setup except substituting either Edelbrock heads and intake or CJ heads and PI intake? Thanks. |
| Hey McQ! nice article on '61 Starliner in -- blinker, 07/27/2004
ept 2004 issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines
Also,. it reviews a 1968-1971 Torino /Cyclone restoration guide that on the market now. Contact PAH publishing, 417-236-0077, price
$29.97 |
| | RE:thanks -- McQ, 07/28/2004
for the heads-up regarding the 9/24 issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines. I'll have a look the next time I'm at the newstand.
I'm still around and I take a look here when I can. I've actually been busy at work on my '60. Things are falling into place. Of course, I'm paranoid now about firing the '27 up based on the bad news I've been reading about cams wiping out. I've never had a cam problem with all of my FE cams swapping. So I'm not reading anymore posts about bad cams! I want to just fire 'er up and see what happens. |
| '70 Shelby 428CJ 4speed vacuum lines -- John J., 07/26/2004
3 lines come off of the thermostat housing. Anyone know where they should correctly lead in order from inside to out? Will it matter? Could this have anything to do with backfire after getting off the gas or would that be solely the thermactor air system? ... went from scratching my head to ... |
| | TVS routing.... -- hawkrod, 07/27/2004
that valve controls vacuum to the distributor. the center port is connected to the front of the advance and the port marked m is connected to manifold vacuum and the other port is connected to the carb vacuum port on the side of the front metering plate. this valve simply applies manifold vacuum to the advance when the vehicle is overheating to kick up the idle speed and advance the timing to help cool the car. when these fail they normally fail in the regular position so it is like they are not even there. it should not cause any backfiring in aither case. the thermactor should also not be to blame unless you have an air leak or a bad divertor valve. hawkrod |
| '70 Shelby 428CJ 4 speed trans thing -- John J., 07/26/2004
Hi again guys ... getting there - I have a Hurst in my '70 GT-500 and it doesn't engage into 2nd on the upshift from 1st intermittantly. It always works downshifting from 3rd though. Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks, John J. |
|  | First thing - adjust & lube the the linkage, per Hurst spec. [n/m] -- Mr F, 07/27/2004
n/m |
| | RE: '70 Shelby 428CJ 4 speed trans thing -- Geoff, 07/27/2004
See if the shift lever is pinching the rubber shifter boot in 2nd. If the console has been in & out of the car several times it can end up installed forward just enough that there isn't enough clearance for the lever without compressing the boot like a rubber spring and causing it to pop out of 2nd. |
| | Not SOHC bearings, thanks for the input.... -- Mike, 07/26/2004
Listing cancelled.... |
| FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- Dano, 07/25/2004
I was told by an Erson tech that all you have to do is drop a number 90 Holley jet into the oil feed hole on top of the head, under the rocker stand, and it drops right in and the rocker stand is supposed to hold it in place. No drilling tapping required etc. Well, I tried that and there is no way a standard Holley jet is going to fit in there without machining the head. Am I missing something or is drilling and tapping the only way to use this method for restricting oil flow to my Erson rocker setup? |
| | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- glennz, 07/26/2004
i had to drill and tap the oil hole, then grind the big end of the holley jet down, i went to a 70 jet and still have to much oil upstairs
glenn z |
| | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- John, 07/29/2004
I first used Aluinum rod machined to slip neatly in the oil gallery with a 90 thou hole in it.....worked fine. Later I changed to tapping for screw in plugs with the plugs having a 90 thou hole drilled thorugh them. Then was told that any piece of rod that fits "easi;y" into the gallery, doesn't need a hole as pleanty of oil gets past the rod aorund its circumference. Works fine, or so I am told and I do believe it to be true. |
| | | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- BobO, 08/05/2004
I am glad to see someone else is using other than #90 I am trying 74's they will fit it is just tricky to push the jet down at it's bottom when installing the rocker bolts once they get started no problem. |
| | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- Louie, 08/01/2004
They dropped right in for me. No machining, no tapping. Didn't even have to touch it with a file. I use #65 jets. |
| | | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- Dano, 08/02/2004
Erson said that for street/strip use, use #90's, he said some racers use #65's. I put the 90's in this weekend, I ground the jets down to where they would fit without being able to move, and also clear the rocker stand. It was't that hard to do, just time consuming. I wonder if Edelbrock changed the head castings so they would drop in? I bought my heads in Jan. 04 and the jet wasn't even close to being able to drop in and fit under the rocker stand. Other than that, I got my car on the road this weekend and man does this 390 Mach 1 move! I gave my buddy a ride in it and he was very impressed, he drives a 87 IROC Z with a 6-71 blower on it! The mustang runs on pump gas, idles good, power brakes work fine, and pushes you back in the seat like a Jet on takeoff, It doesn't matter if you are in first gear or fourth! All of the past few months of sweat, swearing, and busted knuckles have really paid off. This car is a joy to drive! |
| | | | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- Cobra428, 02/23/2005
I just used a roll-pin that fits in the hole. |
| | | | | RE: FE oil flow restrictors, Erson advice. -- John, 02/23/2005
Yes, anything in there that reduces flow is good, but I found the best fix for me was to "also" use single oil hole rocker shafts (holes only on the underside). With the pressure on the rockers upwards, the clearance is mostly on the top, and a rocker shaft hole there lets out plenty of oil. |
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