I would adjust a rocker so the valve opens and let it sit to see if it bleeds down(Valve will slowly close) if it does then you have hyds.If you do the adjustment would be 1 turn of the adjuster after the play(pushrod to rocker) is removed. This should push the plunger of tthe lifter in about .050

If they are solid and you try to preload them, it is probably going to be ugly.

I purchased one but have not installed it yet. It looks very nice and I have heard from others they are the best. It looks very close to the one Crane sells for more $. Probably the same one.

.08 you should be ok, if you are really woried use a thicker head gasket thay make ones that will take up that easy......

Bleeding the light is on because the switch in the block has been pushed off center. I would dump the Dot 5, but you have to flush it real good. Dot 4 is all you need. Bleeding in a jar is almost a must. After the bleeding is all done the lite is reset by having a helper push real hard on the pedal and watch the lite. You open a rear bleeder as little a possible and close it as soon as the lite goes out, if it doesn't repeat on front. You would get more help if you posted in the other (-FE) forum.

badger/sterling/silvolite all seem to be from the same parent company, if its just a daily driver- should be fine to use

ok for a stock setup only thay have to much casting slag ruff casting for my liking and the weights very tomuch for my likeing. but for a low rpm ap thear problie ok.....

Would love to see also. Thought I had forgoten how to get to was not sure it was gone.

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=18749&Reply=18749

Shotpeening compacts the grain structure to make the rod stronger and when done in conjunction with polishing, does reduce stress risers.

The cast v. forged pistons is more a matter of how you're going to use the engine. Cast (or hypereutectic cast) is fine for engines that won't see rpm continually over 6k or so and no supercharging, chemical or mechanical. Hypereutectics can take a fair amount of hard use (including boost and detonation) and cover the gap between plain cast and forged. You're dealing with two issues on a cast piston: Strength of the piston pin boss in tension, and; durability under high-heat and stress from detonation.

If the engine is going to be abused then you'd want to look at a forged or at least a hypereutectic piston. If the engine will live a more reserved life then a hypereutectic or regular cast piston would be better. Hypereutectic pistons cover a lot of ground. They're much stronger than eutectic cast pistons but not quite as strong as a forged piston. There are also balance considerations to make when using a forged piston so if you're not going to have the assembly balanced you need to use a piston that is as close in weight to the previously balanced crank. Ultimately, you would like to put as light a piston as possible on the rod and you won't get there with a FM or TRW forging. You have to go to Ross, JE, and the others for a custom piston. There are also at least two alloys used in forged pistons depending on how it will be used. A real race piston is very light, strong, and just about unusable in a street engine due to clearance and noise issues. The TRW/FM off the shelf forgings are more suited to a street and occasional race engine, run quieter, but they are on the heavy side.

So use a plain cast piston if the engine will live a grocery-getter life and won't see any hard use. Use a hypereutectic if you're going to lean on the engine. Use a forged piston if you're going to be brutal on the thing.

i love fm cast pistons i,v used them on many 390 bilds and never had a piston give out. most of the 390,s wer pickup truck moters with a mild cam and 4 barral carb and run around the 6000 rpm rang top,s and last wel over the 100000, mile mark,yes forged is strounger. but for a street ap i, use cast i,v bilt with forged for a street moters and the custermer,s bigest camplante oil usage wich is a given with the clearinces on the forged so i just use them for all out racing but for the cast i,d use fed m thay seam to be the best out thear. the hyper pistones in my book are not worth the money on the 390 aps having no pistone fail with the fm cast is the way i go,unless your raceing , my two cents.......

Your carburetor should be 735 CFM if it is original. What are the numbers on the air horn? These are fantastic carburetors when rebuilt and adjusted properly. No aftermarket carburetor is as good.

Royce

Some of the 70 Shelbys still have 69 carbs, but it might have a 70 carb. Find your number at http://428cobrajet.com/

John

Also forgot to mention in the previous post ,if you want to replace the points try a pertronix system, it will screw into place of the original points and retain the original look, no exterior ignition box required. About $75.00

If it's a manual trans, the Holley list is a 4279, which I have, and Holley no longer offers.
& Despite what Royce says, it is a lousy vac-sec. carb with a chock horn that gives you perhaps 1/2" clearance under the air cleaner lid and is marginal for anything but a stone-stock freeway-geared automatic.

Try a 750-4150HP unless you're driving it in mid winter