Okay no one is providing you any suggestions on this one so I'll give you a thought based on what you've said......"not spend alot - chrome housing".

Just go shopping at your local automotive parts store and look for a good old Cal Custom air cleaner. I think they're still hanging on the wall of most national auto parts chains. They look very similar to the '65-'66 HP289/GT390 air cleaners. The chrome is pretty cheap but they work and look just dandy for a daily driver. The lower plate fits the Ford 2V or 4V of '67.

have you checked the valve springs they could be to strong or coil binding.how are you breaking it in when you fire the motor for the first time.it is very important to break in the cam.

Unless your dealing with a manufacturing anomaly, such as sub-standard Rockwell hardness on the cam or lifters, your wiping the cam out is likely something you’re doing. Despite the “Internet truth” floating around regarding a certain cam company, it’s highly unlikely that you’d get two bad cams. I believe the attribution of quality issues regarding this company is more a matter of the popularity of the brand increasing the likelihood of the finger being pointed in that direction. So, with that being said, you need to look at the causes from a non-manufacturing perspective.

Most cams get wiped by not explicitly following the directions of the manufacturer. Those are using high performance valve springs that don’t allow the lifters to rotate on the cam lobe, not applying sufficient break in moly lube to the cam and lifters, not maintaining a high enough rpm during the break in, and insufficient splash lubrication. Of course (and I’m sure you’re not doing this) using old lifter on a new cam is a big no-no.

If your springs are the recommended springs for the cam, they could be too stiff for break in. Usually, anything over 140lbs seat pressure is going to be a good path to wiping a lobe. It’s a crap shoot, though, but you have to observe the valve train when the engine fires to ensure that the pushrods are spinning. If the pushrod isn't spinning, then neither is the lifter. The cam manufacturer will usually specify if the recommended springs can be used for break in.

You want to slather as much of the break in lube on the cam lobes and lifter face as you can. Just a film coating is insufficient. Too much is just about right.

The reason all the manufacturer specify the 2,000 to 3,000 rpm for 20 minutes or so is that the cam is lubed only through oil splash from the spinning crank and rods. Lower rpms and shorter break in times may not sling enough oil onto the lobes during the period where the convex lifter face is becoming friendly with the cam lobe. There could be an issue with bearing clearances and rod side clearance restricting oil splash but this is such a technical long shot that I wouldn’t even seriously consider it. Seriously resist the temptation to allow the engine to return to idle during the break in. Impatience in wanting to hear the lope is an excellent way for the lobe to get wiped. Also, do not crank the engine over to establish oil pressure. Prolonged cranking can also be an issue in getting the engine to fire. This is why it’s critically important that the engine fire and run in as soon as you start cranking.

It’s possible to ignore all of the recommendations and warnings and still have a successful break in. It’s done all the time. But the bigger the cam, the more likely that something will go bad and you’re trying to stack the odds in your favor.

This is c/p from the Lazer cam site:

"Under pressure from the major Detroit automakers, the engine oil manufacturers have removed the zinc additive from engine oil. The really bad news is that this increases camshaft and follower failure rates enormously during the break-in time. If you can find a zinc additive for engine oil, that helps greatly. GM's EOS break=in lube has been a faithful option, too. I have heard that the Valvoline racing oil that's labled "not for highway use" may still have the zinc in it. Napa has made a commitment to keep this oil in stock.

There have been no changes in camshaft or follower materials or heat treatment from ANY of us in the racing aftermarket. The increased failure rates are due to the missing zinc in addition to the usual assembly related problems we've been discussing the last thirty years or so. Keeping open spring pressures as low as possible is now more important than ever. "

(I think STP has a lot of zinc additive in it, you might try adding a quart at your next break in. )

please try to find the older rocker arm tin that has the drip chutes that runs the oil down by the pushrods i, also like to use the older tin on hydrolic cam engins for this reason also,and with a hi lift cam you may haft to tweak it a littel to keep it from rubbing,,,,,,my 2 cents

Going back to your first letter, I'd say it is a your "custom FE guru" grinding off the case hardening. Cam lobes are likely soft underneath, and if his custom grinding cut through this outer "tough" layer, then that explains it.

Are you using synthetic oil? I wiped out all 16 lobes off of a cam last year presumably due to the use of synthetic oil. If so, make sure you want to make sure that you get out as much residual oil as possible. Just a thought.

they mean ford quit making them. thus there were no new 427 blocks to be had. hawkrod

And there is one part of the engine that is now and will likely always be Ford. The timing chain cover.

I took their statement as a challange.

the last i can recall ford stoped fe production in 1976 not 40 years ago, the fe ford moter was way ahead of it,s time in engineering dezines, the rotetating asembly was and still is one of the best in it,s stock configeration.i,v ever ran. take a look at the new moters desines and tell me the Y BLOCK is dead,and obsolete.hot rod may have a few ford bild ups but i feal it should be called cheavy rod.....

n/m

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thank you

Remove the foam and the drain plug and flush it out with water and allow to dry. Do the same for the foam.

Fuel cells are not metal and water will clean them without rusting.

Sorry I just notieced that Joe said aluminum fuel cell. Water does work on the foam and the air dry.

Factory stock engines.
Any mods could, and probably did, decrease the mpg.


HTH

The crank is CJ, the heads are not. Rods could be, intake is not cj it's PI. Block is most likely cj. Ex. manifolds are not cj with those numbers, would be 9431/9430.
Tell me more about the valve covers.
Greg