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 |  New headers for 410? -- Hank, 05/17/2004
I need new headers for my 410 (66' park lane). Any suggestions on where to find a pair at a reasonable price? |
|  | Do you mean aftermarket headers or factory exh. manifolds?[n/m] -- Mr F, 05/19/2004
n/m |
 | CJ v. SCJ -- grabberblue302, 05/17/2004
What are the items or features that make a SCJ different than a CJ |
| |  | RE: CJ v. SCJ -- grabberblue302, 05/17/2004
Thanks, Robert. I completely missed that one even though I've been on that site numerous times. |
| | | | RE: CJ v. SCJ -- Robert, 05/17/2004
Cool, hope it helps.
The pictures seem flakey today at least for me.
|
| | | | | RE: CJ v. SCJ -- rj, 05/19/2004
> Cool, hope it helps.
>
> The pictures seem flakey today at least for me.
>
>
their was also afew other differancesthe scj had lamans cap screw rods. The cj had 692 gram pistons the scj had 712 gram pistons.the package tou are referring to was called THE DRAG PACK |
| Easy oil restrictor fix ! -- Jay, 05/16/2004
I had contemplating this awhile. I had an old set of heads in the attic that I got down and noticed that the oil hole in the head under the rocker stand is about 5/16. A 3/8 16 tap calls for a drill bit of 5/16. So, I just ran the tap in the oil hole. Had a couple of set screws in 3/8 16 and just screwed them down into the threaded hole. I tapped the whole just deep enough so that the set screws were just below the top of the whole. Drill the center of the set screw out to your liking and your done. I'm sure this has been before but just thought this was a real easy, neat little way of doing it. |
| distributor missalignment -- bill, 05/16/2004
when i reinstalled performer 390 intake, i couldn't get it to set flush at valve cover gasket area but bottom corners looked ok. now i can't get dist in all the way because the intake hole and the bore in block are not aligned--off by about 3/32 inch. how do i get intake to tighten down evenly? it wanted to seat in one spot no matter in what sequence i tightened the bolts. can it temporarily install dist before tightening bolt so it helps align intake? |
| | RE: distributor missalignment -- giacamo, 05/16/2004
why was the intake removed? is this on a new rebild? wer the dowles instaled in the block for the heads?was any thing milled? |
| |  | RE: distributor missalignment -- bill, 05/16/2004
this is a rebuild. dowel pins aligned heads ok. nothing has been machined |
| | | RE: distributor missalignment -- bill, 05/16/2004
this is a rebuild. heads were machined to take warp out. dowels aligned heads ok. |
| | | | RE: distributor missalignment -- giacamo, 05/16/2004
?try anouther intake to see how alinement is maybe intake cast roung? |
| | | | | RE: distributor missalignment -- bill, 05/16/2004
someone on another forum said best way to install fe manifold is to start bolts, drop in distributor,and then torque bolts. i didn't have another manifold to try or i would have. i have now installed manifold as mentioned above and it looks ok. i'm within a few minutes of firing it up. if you hear a scream, then i've found something else wrong. wish me luck |
| | | | | | RE: distributor missalignment -- McQ, 05/16/2004
Just to answer your original question bill, it is okay to do just as you did. This has been a FE intake installation technique that is very useful.
Install the intake on the gaskets correctly; Start the ten bolts loosely; install the distributor with the rotor aimed at number one plug tower(it sure is helpful to have an old dist. cap with the center cut out) and the engine set at TDC #1, timing set at 10 degrees; tighten the bolts to correct torque specs in correct sequence; Snug the distributor retainer down.
Let us know how the new 390 Performer is running. |
| | | | | | | RE: distributor missalignment -- bill, 05/19/2004
installing dist and then torqueing bolts worked. got it running sunday night, let it run at fast idle for 20 minutes, checked timing and went for test drive. had to go to funeral monday and tuesday so today i drove it to work without hood on it. i love the torque of fe's. by the way this is in a 74 f150, c6, and 3:50 gears, and edel performer cam and intake. all looks and sounds good so far. thanks for all the help |
| misfires -- John, 05/15/2004
Sadly, I hadn't got around to replacing my 428 headgaskets for almost 2 years. So I finally got the enigne back together and it is misfiring very badly. I used the same plugs as before, so maybe they got damp sitting aorund in the garage for all that time, plus I havn't checked the timing yet with a light. But I am wondering about the gas going bad. I know it can seriously affect a single cylinder engine, but I would think a V-8 would be less susceptible to this. Oddly enough my oil pressure fluctuates a bit with the misfires. The oil is still clear though with no evidence of metal. A rusted cam bothered me...I worry too much...Anyway, anybody any thoughts before I go through draingin the gas, putting in new plugs and adjusting the timing? That's some eveing this week coming up...NOT another two years.....LOL. |
| | Maybe its just miswired plugs or mis-indexed distributor? [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/16/2004
n/m |
| | | mis-indexed distributor? -- John, 05/17/2004
Havn't checked it thouroughly yet, but I did doubleheck the firing order and that's OK. I do have strong suspicians about the points and will clean them up first. And I will check the timing again, but your term "mis-indexed" distributor is a term I havn't heard before. Do you mean I might have all the plugs wires off by one position? Can you explain please? |
| | | | I think he means -- Jay, 05/17/2004
... that you my have the distributor stabbed too far off of TDC. You can be off a little but you may be further off than you think. You might try restabbing the dis with the motor on TDC and make sure the rotor points towards #1 on the cap. |
| | | | | Give this a try -- Travis Miller, 05/18/2004
Turn the engine over putting the timing mark on the balancer on 8 degrees. Remove the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointing toward #1 plug wire. (If it is aimed a #6, rotate the engine one full turn). Again with the balancer on 8 degrees, loosen the distributor hold down, turn on the ignition key, turn the distributor till the points fire. Tighten the distributor hold down. This trick will get your timing close enough till you put a timing light on the engine. |
| | | | | Yeah....what he said. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/19/2004
n/m |
| | | | | | The answer....for those insterested... -- John, 06/13/2004
A sitting car for almost 2 years....nothing much done, only head gaskets changed,....why does it barely run and misfire like crazy? Naturally I thought of bad gas....and I think it still isn't quite as "perky" due to this, but I have found the answer elsewhere. When I re-installed my distributer, I set the timing as I alawys do. Rotate the engine to 10 BTDC and adjust the points with an ohmeter until they just go open-circuit by turning the ditributor. I connect my ohmeter between the terminal to the coil (coil disconnected) and ground. Never a problem. Until now. Seems like one set of points (it's a dual point dist) was a little cruddy and only one was making conncection. Once the engine started, the points "cleaned themselves" a bit and of course put my timing off.....way too far advanced it seems. So far advanced, I was getting random sparking to the wrong (next) terminals on the dist cap. Anyhow, reset my timing, and it runs fine, other than needing a good run and a new tank of gas. Darned points anyways......maybe one of those pertronix units.......would still look "correct"........ |
| | | | | | | Thanks for the update, John. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/18/2004
n/m |
| Reed Cams -- Jay, 05/15/2004
Have never heard of them. Are they up on whats hot for the FE's? |
| | RE: Reed Cams -- Lucas, 05/16/2004
I've used them and they have excellent tech people, great product and competitive prices. Give 'em a call 800-548-CAMS. They're located just south of Atlanta in Stockbridge, GA. |
| Question about 2x4 holley 450's linkage -- joe, 05/14/2004
I've got a 427 blue thunder dual quad medium riser with 2 holley 450's. I know a lot of guys run these carbs but what linkage do you use? I know there is a 427 linkage designed for BK/BJ 600's available at carl's vintage parts. But he expressed that I would have a hard time making them fit my 450's. He also suggested that his reissue 465's would be best but I at $750 a pair, that's not going to happen. Should I buy the 427 linkage and just try to make it work? |
| | RE: Question about 2x4 holley 450's linkage -- John, 05/15/2004
Not sure what differeance the carbs are externally, but if they are the same, then yes, buy the 427 linkage. The linkage needs to be adjusted so the second carb comes on after the first carb gets to about 1/3 open throttle. Then the second carb advances at a faster rate so that both wind up fully open together. So, you may need to modify the second carb bellcrank as the linkage pin is in the wrong spot on carbs designed for single operation. Also, a air balance tube must be added. Instead of getting new vacumn covers, you can drill and tap each existing cover for a grease fitting. Use the 90 degree ones and remove the balls and springs. Tighten and adjust till they point towards each other for a tidy vacumn hose installation. |
| | | Here's the problem..... -- Royce, 05/17/2004
The 450 CFM carbs have Generic Motors type throttle arms. The linkage holes are further away from the throttle shaft, so the geometry is screwed for using the factory style progressive linkage.
You might be able to use one of the kits from Lokar more effectively. I believe Edelbrock also offers something.
The factory carbs (BJ - BK) are rated 600CFM apiece in single 4V configuration. They work a lot better and are worth the slightly higher cost due to zero need to modify them and the tuning will be close to spot - on right out of the box.
Royce |
| | | | I've switched to holley 465's (1848-1) -- joe, 05/20/2004
Thanks for the info guys, I have bought a pair of holley 465's (1848-1). I belive they are a better choice because they have vaccum secondaries rather than the mechanical 450s. Also I think the linkage will bolt right on, I hope. Any one using these carbs for a dual quad set up? |
| 4 speed Toploader Trans -- Lucas, 05/14/2004
Any difference in input shaft length and mounting bolt pattern between big block and
small block applications? |
| | RE: They are diffrent -- Dano, 05/15/2004
They are different. The 428/427 toploaders use a large input shaft with a coarse spline. The small block's have a smaller diameter input shaft, and finer spline. The 390's from the factory with a toploader use the same spline and diameter input shaft as the small blocks' but they aren't interchangable due to the small block input shaft being slightly longer, which would push the shaft against the crank when useing a small block trans on the 390. If you are building up a 390, use the larger 428/427 style clutch and transmission, it is stronger and bolts right up. The transmissions use the same bolt pattern on the toploader transmission to bellhousing, but of course the small block and big block bellhousings are different. |
| another casting number ? -- Eric H, 05/13/2004
the id tag reads:
390 69 11
8 H K 311 S
the back of the block reads:
9A104461
i thought that the 9 on the block meant that it was a 69, but the tag has the 8 on it. when was this block cast? how to you narrow it down to a specific day? can you narrow it down to what day it was cast?? also what does the k 311 s mean?? engine code?, if so anyone know anything about this block by that. also the heads have the casting c8ae-h, any good?they have the plain vertical 2 bolt pattern.sorry for all the questions, i am a total newbie to this. thanks in advance for any help. |
| | RE: another casting number ? -- Royce Peterson, 05/13/2004
The engine is a 390-2V made in late 1968 for a 1969 model car built at the atlanta assembly plant. The VIN of that car was 9A^104461. 311S is the assembled engine code including all accessories, it is a 390-2V. The block has a casting date next to the oil filter mount. I believe the engine code is Y in a full size Galaxie or Mercury sedan or wagon.
Every model year begins in July and ends at the end of the following June. Go to your Ford dealer right now and they are trying to dump the leftover 2004 models. In a couple months the 2005 models will be available, just like when that engine was made.
It is a run of the mill 390, C8AE-H casting was used on all 390's in 1968 - 71.
Royce |
| 390 will not rev!! -- kevin, 05/12/2004
I have a 390 in a 67 mustang. The engine has TRW 12.5:1 pistons, crane cam with 266 degrees @ 50,and matching valve springs, Edelbrock Victor 427, low riser heads, that have been worked, 1050cfm dominator, all Msd ignition, C-6 with 4500 stall and trans brake, 4.56 gears. The Engine was broke in last week. Went to the track this past weekend, and the car ran well. But it quits pulling at about 5700 rpm. The cam should pull to 7400. The only thing I'm missing is the Billet rockers. Have the stands and hardend shafts already. Will the rockers help or hasanyone else had this problem? Thanks Kevin. |
| | RE: 390 will not rev!! -- Gerry Proctor, 05/13/2004
I think you're wasting your money by dumping it into a set of rockers. That's not going to solve your problem. Thinking the mechanics of this, you'd have to assume that the iron rockers are flexing. How would they do that?
It's probably a tuning issue and everyone who has done significant modifications has had that problem. But what it is that's limiting you is the hard part.
Does the engine just not rev beyond the 5700rpm or does the power just noticeably fall off? It it quits reving, then you'd likely be looking at a valve control problem. With a hydraulic stick, it could be lifter pump up. It could also be a valve spring installed height problem.
If it continues to rev, just not pull hard past that rpm then you'd have to look at the ignition as well as the fuel system. It could be something as simple as too much advance. It could also be a matter of the float level or *gasp* the throttle not reaching full open position. How about the plugs? With that much squeeze your plugs may be too hot.
Most of the time, this kind of problem can be solved without spending money on expensive parts. It sounds like you've already spent enough on the parts side and need to work on the tuneup side. |
| | | RE: 390 will not rev!! -- Kevin, 05/13/2004
The engine pulls hard to 5700 and then it quits pulling and the tach will not go above 6000 no matter how long you hold it. It has a solid cam, and the valve springs are correctly installed. I was there for every step of the heads. In fact the first springs I got did not match the specs so we orderd a second set to make it right. I have been playing with carb float levels and ignition timing and maybe helped a few hundred rpm. It has autolite 32 plugs. I went with a colder plug for the higher compression. The plug readings have been good. The look a little funny when you burn 114 octane! I think your right in it being a tuninig issue. I'm just ready to here this old FE sing! Thanks Kevin |
| | RE: 390 will not rev!! -- giacamo, 05/13/2004
you may haft to play with dist timeing your advance curve maybe liminting you........ |
| | | RE: 390 will not rev!! -- John, 05/15/2004
Sounds like tuning, although being off 1 tooth on your timing gear can cut back on rev's...usually well below 5700 though. Ignition is the most likely culprit.....beef it up as you may be losing spark. Also, the advance may not be adjusted right. As far as fuel issues go, the carb sounds plenty big, but can the fuel pump keep up? Is the fuel filter large enough? And oddly enough, is the fuel lines from the tank large enough? Fuel restrictions are easy....accelerate and when the engine starts to lose power, momentarily slack of the gas and try again. If it speeds up more than where it lost power, you arn't getting enough fuel. |
| | | | Found It !! -- kevin, 05/19/2004
Removed the intake (Edelbrock Victor ) I have to brag just a little, but i found 3 flat lobes on the cam. This is the 3rd cam in 4 months that has went flat! I have no idea. The bad thing is I'm a Ford Tech for 8 years and I have installed a whole bunch of cams, and I'm not doing anything diffrent. If anything I'm taking more time and paying closer attention to details. I have no idea! |
| | | | | RE: Found It !! -- 390ranger, 05/20/2004
what are the spring seat pressures and are the springs shimmed ? my dad had trouble with rounding off lobes and removed the shims and the problem went a way. are your valve lashes correct? |
| | | | | | RE: Found It !! -- Kevin, 05/20/2004
Yes, I know the spring pressures are right. I was there when my buddy set the heads up. It is a real radical cam w/ 621 lift. The valve lash has been set according to Crane Cams specs. ( .026 ) hot. |
| | | | | | | RE: Found It !! -- Gerry Proctor, 05/20/2004
It is not uncommon for high spring pressures to cause breakin difficulties. This is why many manufacturers recommend using breakin springs, especially when you're using a double spring (not the spring and damper). You need to call Crane's techline and find out for sure if those springs are suitable for breakin. |
| | | | | | | RE: Found It !! -- giacamo, 05/20/2004
621 lift you might haft to cut out the spring pockets for taller springs.maybe spring bind wiping out cams. and check spring presser for lift specks maybe spring presser going off scale at total lift?wiping out cams.not binding but springs not for that lift ap? |
| | | | | | | | RE: Found It !! -- kevin, 05/24/2004
Well I have done some more checking. The springs (that were ordered with the cam) are installed correctly. The closed pressure is 145lbs. The open pressure is 350lbs. When we set the springs up, we took the lift of the cam, did the math with rockerarm ratio etc, set the head in the machine and applied that much lift to the top of the spring. There it was checked for correct pressure and coil bind and adjusted (shimmed) accordingly. Hearing what all of you have said, everything I have read and talking to a couple of diffrent engine builders, I beleive these pressures are way to stiff for break-in. I believe I am going to remove the inner-spring, dampner and any shims for break-in of the next cam. However any other suggestions are more than welcome! I am tired of spending money and ready to go PLAY! Thanks for all the help and advise. |
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