Skip Navigation Links.
| 1963 427 -- chris, 02/23/2006
my friend has a blue printed 427 2-4 barrel engine |
| | Good for him, Chris! Now go get some breakfast.;) -- Gerry Proctor, 02/23/2006
nm |
| Big Block Shifter -- WACO, Simi Valley CA., 02/22/2006
I have a 67 390 S code Fastback Mustang with a non stock Hurst shifter. It travels too far to use the console I've acquired, I want a 4 speed stock shifter set up. One on E-Bay is listed (Item number: 4615090910) that claims it is correct for the big block, not the easy to find small block shifter. I've asked the seller to define what is different between big and small block shifters twice with no response, my question, is there a difference between shifters for small and big block (Top loader)for the 67 Mustang? Thanx, WACO in Simi CA. |
| | RE: Big Block Shifter -- Royce P, 02/22/2006
The seller speaks the truth. Virtually every part except the chrome handle and the black knob is unique to the big block shifter. The pictures show the right parts and the price is quite fair. If I were in your shoes I would click on the "Buy it Now" button before someone else gets it. That is a good price.
Royce |
| | | Royce is right on and that is a great price -- Hawkrod, 02/22/2006
Big block shifters are different and require a lot of parts. What he is selling is definitely correct as far as the shifter and mount are concerned (I can see it in the pictures) so I assume the rest is correct as well. I also know I wouldn't even consider that little as the Buy It Now for one. Hawkrod |
| | | | RE: Royce is right on and that is a great price -- Scott Allard, 02/23/2006
Check with Pete at:
www.precisionpontiac.com
He's a real Hurst guru!
- Scott |
| | | | | Great that he is a Hurst guru but does he do Ford? -- Hawkrod, 02/23/2006
An original Ford shifter like the one he is looking for has nothing to do with Husrst so what could a Hurst specialist do to help with an original big block Mustang shifter made by Ford? Hawkrod |
| | | | | | RE: Great that he is a Hurst guru but does he do F -- Scott Allard, 02/23/2006
Yep, he sure does! I got a nice NOS three speed Hurst Supershifter for my 66 Fairlane GT from him. He's got a ton of stuff for a whole bunch of cars, not just Pontiac. - Scott |
| | | | | | | Uh, you didn't answer my question... -- Hawkrod, 02/23/2006
I know he does Hurst stuff but that isn't what we are talking about, does he do original Ford shifters (hint: they are not Hurst shifters). Hawkrod |
| | | | | | | | RE: Uh, you didn't answer my question... -- WACO, Simi Valley CA., 02/23/2006
Thanks to all that answered this, you guys are great, it's good to be able to get the skinny from an unbiased point of view. David Kee Toploaders has a big block shifter for $450, rebuilt. |
| | | | | | | | | Is that price including the shifter adapter -- Hawkrod, 02/23/2006
The shifter alone will not do you much good because it will not bolt on the trans correctly (the adapter is the big flat plate in the auction picture and I think they are about $100 repop). |
| | | | | | | | | | Shifter adapter plate? -- WACO, Simi Valley CA., 02/23/2006
I'm not sure if it includes the plate, tomorrow I intend to call and see if it includes the plate, reverse switch, and anything else I don't know about that I'll need....I don't know jack about what I need.....Thanx |
| 289 early block and edelbrock heads -- guy walker, 02/22/2006
Hello all, (from cold wet UK)! I have an early 289 block, and we are fitting Edelbrock heads. Following instructions, we are told to drill a steam hole in our block, but at the point of drilling, we find we are over a casting rod iin the cooling jacket! Edelbrock and Summit Racing havent come back with any sense, so do we need this extra hole, or does it not really matter? cheers Guy |
| | Drill the hole, the rod is garbage from casting -- Hawkrod, 02/22/2006
The rod is simply part of the mold assembly tool and is not part of the finished block. Drill the holes and go to bed! LOL Hawkrod |
| 390 rebuild -- Kelly, 02/19/2006
I have a 68 mustang gt S code. I have to pull the engine to detail the engine and compartment as well as fix the many oil leaks, including, i am told, the rear seal. The car has the toploader with 325 locking rear. I have managed to keep the look relatively stock but since I am removing the engine, should I rebuild at the same time and to what extent? Tha car already has headers. I have been told the edelbrock power package is a great choice but the aluminum manifold and heads wont look stock anymore I am assuming. Can I keep the stock pieces and improve performance, ie matching the ports etc. Any other ideas? I am relatively new to this but am mechanically inclined. Thanks Kelly |
| | RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 02/22/2006
the 68 390 gt mustang aint no slouch with the stock parts.i,d rebilt basic stock i,d use the 4v tipe pistons 10.5,s and upgrade the heads with hardend exaust seats for the unleaded gas nowadays with the cam i,d go to a 280h comp package maching springs and onepice retainers,and molly pushrods and with the 4 spead i,d try the 3,25s but proubly go deaper gears for 1/4 mile roumps..... |
| | | RE: 390 rebuild -- Kelly, 02/22/2006
Thank you for the response. That sounds interesting. Should I keep the stock intake manifold and carb? Do you think it would be worthwhile to port the heads? Kelly |
| | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 02/24/2006
i like the stock look i,d keep the stock intake and carb maybe step the jets up in the carb and make shure to buy a beter than stock clutch i,d use a centerforce setup .with headers that cam works good in a light mustang...... |
| | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- giacamo, 02/24/2006
on porting i,d just port mach the intake to the heads...... |
| | | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- Kelly, 02/24/2006
Thanks for all your help. I also like the stock look. I think your suggestions will give me a little more power while retaining driveability. Kelly |
| | | | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- RealTaz, 03/02/2006
Hello Kelly,
I was once like you, going to keep my 67" 390 GT Mustang fairly stock, but OOOPS! It is not stock anymore. I put the original Block in a safe place. Found a re-buildable 360 motor out of a truck. Went with Edlebrock Heads, Intake, 850 Holly, Isky Solid Lifter Cam etc. Puts out about 450 hp @ 5400. Has a 4 spd Toploader, 3.73:1 Aubern Limited in back. She fly's! But this is for me. Waited a lot of years to have this. Good Luck whatever you do. The Real Taz.. |
| | | | | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- kelly, 03/02/2006
I am so tempted. I have looked at the crate engines and started to dream. Power right out of the box. I think for now I will rebuild or refresh and keep it close to stock. thanks for the replies Kelly |
| | | | | | | | RE: 390 rebuild -- Bill, 06/02/2006
Kelly try to find a aluminum police intake, or a alum 428 1 4 intake.port match,put a 750 holley on it and go. I had a 56 ford 390, 4 spd, 4.56 gears,10 in slicks went 12.80s. good luck. |
| Guru's need help/advise -- GTJOE, 02/17/2006
Tranny out of shop, arm and leg later, but got just about everything i need in a c-6. Engines a 65 merc 4v 390 10:5 to 1 pistons. Have the c-8 ae-h heads and mallory dist. Heres where i need some help, going into a 67 fairlane ranchero with air ps pb. 3. 25 rears and disc front. Going tri-ys for exhaust and either edelbrock streetmaster or holly street dominator? new holly 650. I need help on the comp cam, 252h, 260h, or 268h. Oh yeah have hv oil pump. What kind of perfonmance can i get and what cam would work best. Tranny guy said to stick with the heavy duty 1500 stall torque convertor have that too (came with the arm and leg cost). Help guys on the cam and intake. Thanks!. |
| | Walking on thin ice with the small cams. -- Gerry Proctor, 02/21/2006
The 252 and 260 are marginal cams with that much compression. Not impossible but you'll have to be very careful on tuning your total timing and the advance rate to run pump gas. Both of these cams are all done at about 4,500 rpm. Their focus is off-idle to 3k rpm. Great for a work truck. The 268 is a bit better but still goes flat before 5k rpm. All three offer a very robust bottom end and work well in a heavy car with a numerically-low rear gear, like 3.0:1. You neglected to state what your driving intentions are for the car so it's impossible to recommend a cam. In this case, I can only tell you how a cam will likely behave. If you want a recommendation, I suggest you call a couple of the cam grinders and get their opinion.
Either of those intakes are within the performance range of the three cams so it won't matter.
With the biggest cam, the headers, and the intake combo, you should see an honest 20-40 hp depending on how good you are at the tuneup. |
| | RE: Guru's need help/advise -- giacamo, 02/22/2006
i,d use the comp 265h and springs.and the stock intake i,v bilt 390,s with that compresion and used the 265 comp cam in high geared heavy weights with good resoults... |
| | | RE: Guru's need help/advise -- GTJOE, 02/27/2006
thanks for the info. I have both of the intakes listed above so can do away with the stock intake (and weight), concerned about too much cam. trying to stay with stock rockersand curb the costs and maybe get a little durabilty with this one.Don't want to push the edge too much. what carb have you run?opinion on the rear gears and the torque convertor i have. Thanks for any info Joe..... |
| | | | RE: Guru's need help/advise -- giacamo, 02/28/2006
on the carb i like to use a 650 on the mild end or 700 cfm on higher rpm ap ,if you think the 280 is to much cam i,d use the 265h and springs to mach.i,d keep the stock converter and run 3.50,s in the rear... |
| | | | | RE: Guru's need help/advise -- GT JOE, 03/02/2006
Thanks for the help guys, set on the 265h what with the ac and all. Going tri-y on the exhaust and mallory ig. , with aluminum intake. Any other thoughts you guys might have let me know. As always you guys are a great source for us f. E. Addicts. Thank you. Joe. |
| | | | | | RE: Guru's need help/advise -- giacamo, 03/02/2006
dont be cheap on the heads i see so many crapy valve jobs.now adays i feal the heads are a weak link on the fe if not doun corect......... |
| 428 SCJ storage -- Bob Clarke, 02/15/2006
I have a 428 SCJ out of a 69 Mach 1 that I need to store long term. I have been looking around for an engine cradle, but most say that they will not fit this engine. Am I reading too much into it, or does someone make an engine cradle that will fit this?
Thanks |
| 390 build -- Jay, 02/15/2006
I have a 65 gal. conv. with a 390, tho this 390 is not the one that came with the car. This one came out of (so the guy said) a 1969 ltd I think. I want to build it up to were its really peppy, but not going to ruin the motor. I want it to last, and later do other things to it that are bolt on things.
I really want to do the internals and get then strong, and correct. I don't want to bore out my block due to the thickness of the walls. So I was thinking about running a higher compression piston. I'm new to all this and I really don't have any idea at what is what, and I don't want to go to a shop and pay out the rear for crap. I can rebuild a motor, but its specs I get lost.
I thinking on flat top pistons, with valve clearences, I don't know what type of rods to get, or anything for that matter. I would like to good amount of power so that if I really wanted to I could have some fun with others who have that pesky honda crap. Keep this in mind this a Convertable, not a hardtop or fastback. I'm not looking for 8 sec time down the strip, as its not going to be doing that stuff. I want a good set up internaly so that I can mod. the intake and such to add later if I want.
I need new heads, pistons, and rods. I'm pretty sure my crankshaft is ok. If I do bore out my block its going to be 15 not a 30.
So money it doesn't matter... no I'm not wanting to go over board, but if it costs that much to get this or that done then it costs that much.
Part numbers are good so I can call people up and order or get it off e-bay or something. I thank you all for helping me!
Jay |
| | Red Flag -- Royce P, 02/16/2006
Rebuilding a motor is all about the specs. If the specs lose you then take the engine to a competent professional.
|
| What does FE stand for -- George, 02/14/2006
Ok, I am a novice with Ford motors. Can you tell me what FE means? I realize that it is associated with big blocks but thats it. |
| | It stands for... -- Gerry Proctor, 02/14/2006
Can o' worms. Do a forum search and enjoy the abundance, as this question has been beaten far more than the proverbial dead horse. |
| | | It stands for... Use search button!!n/m -- Peter M, 02/14/2006
n/m |
| | | | You guys are just chicken..... -- Hawkrod, 02/14/2006
Afraid of starting another turf war? Uh, me too, use the search button! LOL Hawkrod |
| | | | | Buck, buck... -- Gerry Proctor, 02/14/2006
More like groundhog day and de ja vous in an endless loop. Mr. F. ought to create a pass/fail error handler before a post can be submitted. Criteria could be "What does FE mean," and "Is it a 428." |
| | | | | | Don't forget "I found this motor..." nm -- Big Dave, 02/14/2006
nm |
| | RE: What does FE stand for -- George, 02/14/2006
Whoa! I think I should use the search button. Never thought of that (Duh). Thanks for the replies. |
| | | George, your a good sport. -- Lou, 02/14/2006
truth is no one knows for sure, but search will give some good guesses. |
| | | RE: What does FE stand for -- ken b, 02/26/2006
It stands for FORD-EDSEL!! Thought you ford nuts knew that. |
| | RE: What does FE stand for -- William Bowie, 05/15/2006
Some claim "FE" is an acromyn for 'Ford-Edsel', while others insist the name meant simply 'Ford Engine'. A careful search of the FoMoCo Engineering archives by currently employed engineers shows that the earliest references to the engine group made reference to 'Ford/Edsel and very soon that was shortened to F/E. Ultimately the designation was simplified to FE. Another engine family, the MEL, stood for "Mercury-Edsel-Lincoln". |
| | | RE: What does FE stand for -- gurney, 06/07/2006
Ford Enthusiast.....and all those other things! |
| | RE: What does FE stand for -- walt, 05/15/2006
the designation of the metal iron on the atomic periodic table,in chemistry? |
| | | RE: What does FE stand for -- madmerc3, 05/21/2006
Oh for heaven's sake....it stands for "Farm Engine" you take Manhattan just give me the countryside! |
| 1968 tach -- gary goblirsch, 02/13/2006
Do any of you know the car this was for and where it mounted? The number on the box is (c8az-7a326).
Thank you. |
| rear main seal 70 351c -- harold la croix, 02/12/2006
i have a 351 c engine with rear main seal in cap.in the cap i see what i am calling a pin? it goes through cap to back side where pan rubber seal goes. what is it for?seal is not going all the way down in cap.do i need to knock it flush it end where rubber seal for pan is or does it help seal stay in place. |
| | RE: rear main seal 70 351c -- glennz, 02/13/2006
when using theoriginal rope seal this would keep rope seal in place,
if going to rubber type rear seal, knock pin out.. if you have tried to put the cap and seal in now and tightened it, replace seal, you may have kinked it already...
glennz www.mtrperformance.com |
| | | RE: rear main seal 70 351c -- harold la croix, 02/13/2006
thanks did not put third seal in yet.had seal leak and only have 4500 on new motor but sealdamaged at the cap.i installed 2nd seal and soon as i started engine it went to leaking.tore lower end down and seal wore at cap.that when i noticed the pin and did not even think about a rope seal since the engine kit came with a rubber seal but a all ways had a small leak thanks again harold |
|