Skip Navigation Links.
 |  what is a good cam lift and duration for a 390 -- Ben, 08/06/2003
Im 16 year old kid that is really into cars, trucks and racing, i have a 71 ford f-100 pickup with a 390, c6 tranny and a 9in rear end. im building the motor right now and i would like to put a aftermarket cam in it... my question is what is the best lift and duration for my motor... it is a mild build, mainly just for street.. but with the occasional trip to the dragstrip. thanks for reading my question i hope u can help. |
|  | Well... -- Royce Peterson, 08/06/2003
In a heavy pickup for sreet driving a Comp Cams 260H would be a big improvement over stock. It's hard to recommend a cam without knowing the exhaust system, compression, intake and torque converter but this one is easy to live with and will be an improvement over stock. Be sure to replace your valve springs with the recommended Comp Cams springs at the same time.
Royce |
|  | RE: what is a good cam lift and duration for a 390 -- giacamo, 08/22/2003
comp cam 260 good streat cam with10.5 conpreson. be shure to mach springs and i prefer to use one pice retainers. |
 | cam selection -- cuzncletus, 08/05/2003
Camshaft philosphies are like belly buttons..... Never the less, there are several posters on this site who have obviously sweat and bled over FE's for years. I would appreciate learned and experienced input. Here's the specifics as they exist:
62 Ford Galaxie 2 dr. post, 416 in. FE (360 truck block .030 over, 410 Merc crank) Edelbrock heads, .522/.522 x 214 @ .050 hydraulic cam, Sharp roller rockers, Sanderson shorty headers, aluminum PI intake, 780 Holley, milodon pan, 24-2800 stall converter, C6, 3.89 posi 28 spline, weight right at 4000 lbs less portly driver. The car currently runs a best of 13.8's at 106 but sees much more street time (some at the far end of the county in "illegal contests of speed") than at the track.
I'm freshening the motor this fall. It has low oil pressure when warm. The motor had "birthing" problems when assembled and has since run hot on several occasions. When the shortblock is down, I'm going to convert it to solid lifters, use forged lightweight pistons, and balance it. Time and cleanliness problems in the shop may force me to farm it out. I've got a machinist/engine builder friend who is willing to swap the work for some (insert spitting noises here) Chevrolet parts I have.
Those are the parameters, here's the question. I want suggestions on lift/ duration/ centerline on a solid lifter cam. The pistons will be flat tops. I may be willing to swap the converter. I live at sea level so air shouldn't be an issue.
Opinions? |
| Remote oil cooler adpter price on ebay -- James, 08/05/2003
I just saw and CJ remote oil cooler adpter go for $156 on ebay. Is that cheap? |
| | RE: Remote oil cooler adpter price on ebay -- stan, 08/12/2003
F.P.A. sells a new repro of the original by Blue Thunder!
fordpowert@aol.com |
| High Performance mechanical fuel pump -- Randy, 08/05/2003
Hi, I have a Carter 120gph pump on my 428CJ right now, but on the dyno at about 6000rmp's my fuel pressure drops to 3psi, we make 455hp and 484lbs of torque to the rear tires, I would like to stay with a mechanical if I can, does any body know of a mechanical pump that put's out more than 120ghh, any info would be great! |
| | I have never heard of... -- James, 08/05/2003
anyone sticking with the mechanical pump when making the kind of serious horse power that you have there. I wouldn't stick with it if performance was my goal. |
| | | RE: I have never heard of... -- tom, 08/06/2003
3 psi should be enough because your not at 6000 for more than a second |
| | RE: I have news for you, James. -- Gerry Proctor, 08/06/2003
NASCAR engines make quite a bit more horsepower than he's making and the rules require a mechanical fuel pump mounted in the stock location.
You need to deal with both pressure and volume. You should have enough free-flow volume for your horsepower level but you may want to look at a higher pressure mechanical pump with a regulator. Even the best pump may not cure your problem (if, in fact, you do have a problem) since you have to deal with this as a complete system and that includes everything from the tank pickup, the lines, pump, filter, and even the type of fittings used in the plumbing.
So, yes, you can get a mechanical pump with more volume and pressure.
|
| | Beefier mechanical pumps are available here: -- Royce Peterson, 08/06/2003
http://www.bgfuel.com/
Most Nascar teams run Barry Grant mechanical pumps and pull 750 plus HP all day long.
Royce |
|  | RE: High Performance mechanical fuel pump -- Barry_R, 08/08/2003
I'd make certain of the fuel supply.
We sell 170+G.P.H. Carter pumps for s.b. Chevy and Ford NASCAR applications - - but not for the FE. Barry Grant actually modifies Carter pumps by welding the fittings on and porting the inlet/outlet passages.
A true 120 G.P.H. should support an awful lot of power. Figure on fuel weight of 6 pound per gallon, thats about 720 pounds of fuel/hr. Since brake specific would be .5 or better, that traslates into 1440 horsepower - yikes!
But - - nothing is as easy as it looks. Turns out that fuel pumps are rated for flow at zero restriction. That means no fuel lines, and no line pressure or resistance. If memory serves well, the old Holley 110 GPH electric ran about 70GPH when working against a regulator, which is much more realistic - still without lines and such. Even there, you could easily support 600-700 horses w/o fear. |
| | | Thanks for setting me straight on ... -- James, 08/14/2003
mechnical fuel pumps. Sounds like most of you have done your home work. I think that most of the people that I have seen run those electric pumps were miss informed about how good a mechanical pump could be. I know that I have been. I heard people swear by those electric ones claiming a difference in performance. I have never run anything but a mechanical pump without any disapointments but there again I have never had an engine that made more than about 400 horses either. Again...thanks. |
| Oil Modifications Article -- Jason, 08/05/2003
There used to be an FE oil modification article posted to the web somewhere that had pictures and descriptions of the common oil modifications, but now I can't find it.
Does anyone out there have a link to this site? |
| | | RE: Oil Modifications Article -- BarryMcLarty, 08/07/2003
go to doveperformance.com and you can download an all encompassing article by Jim Dove called Insights into the F.E. Engine.Great oiling solutions in this story! |
| Rocker shaft wear -- Gord, 08/05/2003
How much is too much? I am replacing all the rockers and see that a couple of areas of the shaft has some noticable wear. I mean you can really hook your fingernail on the wear ridge! Does this area wear after time and is acceptable, or am I looking at certain doom down the road and should be looking for a whole new rocker and shaft assembly now? |
| | Time to replace the whole assembly. -- Royce Peterson, 08/05/2003
Any wear that is as you describe is too much.
Any auto part store should be able to get stock replacement assemblies for around $175 - $200 a pair.
Royce |
| Gears? Electronic ignition? or not? -- Frank Cricenti, 08/04/2003
I am working on a 390 GT out of a 67 Fairlane GTA and am looking for some input on distributors, points and ignition.
The car will not be a strip racer, it will be street driven, not often... sunny summer days only. (city and some highway as well).
I am rebuiliding the engine to give me more low end torque and hp.
What type of gears should I run with? Should I go with a stock distributor? or should I change that and go with an electronic ignition? If so any recommendations out there on brand?
Thanks
Frank
|
| | RE: Gears? Electronic ignition? or not? -- Charlie, 08/07/2003
duraspark on the distributor, $50 gets one readily at any part store and they work up to 6k plus.
350's has been my choice for street rides in gears, you can still run down the road with out killing your engine, but they a low enough to kick that little street import thats gonna pull up next to you right in the ass.
Also look into a crane or msd ignition, and tfi coil. You can get a cheap used ignition from crane off ebay for $100, use a tfi out of a 93 ford truck and pick up a duraspark distrb. for $50 and have a great street machine with a rev limiter that you can buy parts for any where you go.
Charlie |
| | | Hard starting -- John Lawless, 12/03/2004
Just put a 351c in my 73 coupe, it starts fine when cold but after running it for some time it's hard to start again. I am running a MSD distributor and 6A box, I have also installed a high torque starter and heat shield. The funny thing is when i disconect the distributor from the 6A box the engine turns without any problem |
| | | | RE: Hard starting -- giacamo, 12/03/2004
a msd timing retarder is what i use on my cyclone, with out it would never start hot.my msd box has it bilt right in it, i think thay make a retarder that will adapt to the 6a box, i dont have my msd catalog with me but i think this would help your hard starting proublems |
| | | | | RE: Hard starting -- John Lawless, 12/04/2004
Thanks for the info i will have to check that out. The car will start when hot but it almost sounds like the battery is dead or the starter is defective ( all new stuff ) |
| | | | | RE: Hard starting -- john lawless, 12/12/2004
Hi giacamo you recomended getting a timing retard for my hot start problem. I found a timing control that will fit a 6al box is this the same as a timing retard. |
| | | | | | RE: Hard starting -- giacamo, 12/12/2004
maybe? what tipe is it as in part #some msd timing controls are for anvance only. |
| | | | | | | RE: Hard starting -- john lawless, 12/12/2004
Its part # msd 8680 this is an ebay item and the seller said that it will advance and retard the timing. |
| | | | | | | | RE: Hard starting -- giacamo, 12/14/2004
the 8680 control only has 15deg. sweap to it you,d problie haft to adjust your run timing at the top of the sweap of adjustmend for runing then turn it all the way back to get the 15deg. retard for starting,i dont think 15' may not be enuf retand?i,d look for a msd 8982 start retard control to stack on a msd .6 box it would give you 25' retard at cranking wich would ease things up, i use a msd 6520 box wich i love and it gives me 25' retard at cranking and works great but has more bells and wissels wich i use from time to time .i would buy the 8608 if i feal im geting a good deal, to play with and keep around, it can allways be used for outher projects... |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Hard starting -- john lawless, 12/31/2004
Installed the msd start retard pn #8982 today and it work's great, thanks for all the good advice. |
| | RE: Gears? Electronic ignition? or not? -- giacamo, 12/03/2004
i love msd i,d find a newer dist with the eletronic pickup in it and use a msd box and a msd coil and recurve the dist to my liking.3.50,s gears are a good choise and even 3.25,s arent bad for the streat. |
| Intake swap questions -- dennie, 08/03/2003
http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=17923&Reply=17923
I'm installing this 3x2 on my 390 this week (hopefully). Is there anything I need to know, I've never worked on fe's before. From what I've read I should use Victor Reines gaskets and silicon only on the front and rear. How about valve cover gaskets? I've got mercury pentroofs, i plan to run 2 drivers side breather only and do away with pcv from an old Mcq post. well wish me luck.
[Link added by Admin.] |
| | PCV is a good thing. -- Royce Peterson, 08/05/2003
Try to keep the PCV intact, it has no drawbacks. Without PCV your engine campartment will be a mess and your oil will get dirty quicker.
Royce |
| Trans Id -- monte scott, 08/03/2003
My brother has a C-6 trans for an FE and he would like to know what it came in as in Galaxie,Mustang, and if possible what engine went in front of it. Servo tag # PGB-A2
020371. This # was stamped into the case just in front of the tailshaft housing, 8 and the next digit could be a letter or a number, it could be a 6, a C or a G, then 207668. Please anyone who know this stuff, Help!! Monte |
| resistor plugs -- Don, 08/03/2003
I have a 1965 Fairlane with a 6 cyl. 200 CID motor that has motor noise in a radio I installed. I have already added a RF filter & the condensors on the voltage regulator & alternator & still have it. I now want to put in resistor plugs but am confused as to what plug to put in. The old required plug is an Autolite BF-82 which now I think is a 45. Does anyone know what resistor plug I need? |
| | RE: resistor plugs -- Charlie, 08/07/2003
Get your self a set of spiral wound plug wires, any guy working behind the counter at auto zone or napa will know what I'm talking about. Also bad grounds in the ignition system or radio.
|
|